Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 - Driver Side Front Leaf Spring Snapped?
Jan 25, 2016
I just realized my driver's side front leaf spring on my 2002 F250 has snapped. I checked the weight sticker on my truck and it weighs 5200lbs in the front. My question is the heaviest springs I found only support 2630lbs a piece, so being a 7.3 is 5200lbs a correct weight for the front of this truck? also why would Ford make springs that support only 60lbs more than the front weight? Hell I weight more than 60lbs.... Did I snap the damn thing just by climbing into the cab?!?!
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Conversion from the dana 50 to the newer dana 60 with coil spring? My Dana 50 has called it quits so while my front end is already off the vehicle already why not make improvements. Ford used the 50 for 1999 to 2002 then upgraded to the 60, I'm guessing it was for a reason!
I've read this article on a similar project but the dana 60 had leaf springs as well: Dana 60 Conversion for F250 years 1986-1996 .: Articles I'd prefer coil spring, nothing more then personal preference with a bit of better ride quality. The donor vehicle is a 06 SRW F250 This is not what I'll be getting but just as an example of the parts I would get.
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My front passenger leaf spring just broke on my 2000 f-350. My front springs are T code, but I was wondering if a could replace the broken one with a code X spring as a temp fix until I get a leaf spring replacement delivered?
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What is the width between the spring perches on leaf sprung 99-04 front axle. I searched and cant seem to find a dimension listed anywhere. i tried the dana60 bible on the pirate site as well, but it doesn't list the spring perch dimensions, only for the pre 99 styles
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Where I can get or have a speed nut for the front eye bolt of the right rear leaf spring? If you do I'll gladly send you some cash for it and to cover shipping it. It's supposed to rain pretty much all week here and I really don't want to go to a junkyard. I have checked ford parts and nothing there you can get the hanger that attaches to the frame that the spring bolts to but not the speed nut or bolt only need the speed nut though. Truck is an 2004 f-250 so 1999-04 will work and 05 to 07 is setup the same in the rear but I don't know if they are the same size bolt since they made the frame heavier. I have no idea after 07 when they made the springs longer.
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I've got a 02 SD v10 4x4 with Warn hubs and 97k. Bought it a couple months ago and I've noticed a vibration coming from the front driver side. Symptoms are that of a bad wheel bearing; vibration that increases with speed and not RPM, seems to lessen on left handed turns (weight transfers from driver side to passenger side) and gets worse on right turns. Also the truck seems very twitchy and hard to keep straight on the highway.
Snowed the other day so I locked in my warns (just in case) and I instantly noticed the noise and vibration almost went away entirely except for on the freeway around 70+ mph. Also noticed it seems less "Twitchy" on the freeway. Mind you the hubs are locked in but still in 2wd. After doing a little bit of reading some were saying this is a sign of bad needle bearings and not the entire hub.
I haven't jacked up the tire and checked typical movement in a bad wheel bearing. I know my way around vehicles and 4x4's pretty well...
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here's the problem. The driver side front power window will only go down and not up. I checked the motor and the master switch with a multimeter and both work just fine. the motor is receiving power and the master switch is sending power. However when i plug the motor back in and re-install it, the window will not go up. Is there some sort of relay that might have gone bad that is not letting the motor raise the window up???
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2003 F250 7.3... I noticed a water leak dripping down onto passenger side front leaf spring. I saw this before but attributed it to the AC (which kicks butt) but haven't used the AC. No scent to the clear fluid, temps all look good. Running fine. Where does the AC discharge go? Could AC be on (not on AC but set in blue zone on dial)? Reservoir looks ok but could e small volume of drips.
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As the title says are my front leaf springs bad? I got this truck 2 years ago and replaced all the ball joints, shocks, sway bar links,front hubs, rotors and brakes along with all the seals. I have a clunk in the front and I can't figure out what it's coming from. Could my leaf springs be clacking together? Truck
is a 2000 F250 SD v10.....
Driverside front
Rear spring
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I have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
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I just put some toyo at2 295.75.16. On my 04 250. And I've got some rubbing on the plastic and front leaf springs. If a 2.5 " spring left will take care of the rubbing or will I need wheel spacers.
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The used 2004 F-350 I bought has developed a driver's side front end howl between 45 and 60 mph over the last 1000 miles. I tried all the standard stuff, rebalanced tires, rotated tires, put on a set of tires from a friend's F-350, replaced wheel bearings, replaced ball joints and nothing has worked.
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I got an 03 f250 with a 10 inch lift on 40x14.50 tires on 20x10 fuel hostage wheels. They rub my springs pretty bad when trying to make even the slightest kind of tight turn and the sound they make when they rub is even worse than them actually rubbing. My question is should i stay with this tire and wheel setup and try to get some 6061 billet aluminum 2 inch spacers? (I'm not sure about going that route though because of what i heard about spacers) or go down to some 38s with a 20x14 wheel that hopefully would push the tire away from the hub like spacers would do. I'm leaning more towards going to 38s because of the rubbing and also because I feel they might look better on the 10 inch lift rather than the 40s but dont know whats the best thing to do.
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I am looking at a set of SD axles for my 92 F250. I have been looking for the last 2hrs and have found measurements for seemingly every axle in existence except for the SD D50/60.
What the center to center width is on the spring pads of the front axle. Wouldn't hurt to know the same measurement for the rear either.
Also, a bit more trivial, but still need to know, what is the size and taper of the draglink joint that goes in the pittman arm.
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Ive got a 2002 f250 Sd 4x4 with 93000. Im getting severe vibration from the front drivers side at highway speed. I thought it might be a warped rotor but i cant feel it in the brake pedal, when I put the brakes on. How can you tell when the hub bearing assembly is going bad? The truck doesnt pull to that side either. I can hear it, and feel it more when i'm going around highway corners. When im driving through town, I can hear a "clunk,clunk,clunk" noise coming from that side also.
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2011 f250 6.2. put it in the shop to have the rotors turned, and front brakes while they were under there. Now it pulls to the right whenever you apply the brakes. Can smell brakes on the left front after a short drive time. Replaced that caliper and it's still doing the same thing. I'm stumped at this point.
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This is right beneath the drivers side exhaust manifold. Not sure what it is but it appears to be leaking oil. Tried to tighten it and it seems snug. Can it be the gasket has gone bad for whatever it is?
Truck is 02 SD, 7.3, 4x4, with 512k miles.
Not really leaking bad but if easy enough to fix why not. It also appears to be leaking on the same side cylinder bank back near the rear of the valve cover. Need to see if I can snug that up as well.
It's right in the center of the pic. It's a bolt going into some sort of fitting housing that ties into the back portion of the block. Ignore the coolant streaks on the coolant hose. This is the oil leak in the darker center of the pic.
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Adding cruise control to F350 XL I just bought. I got a steering wheel with the buttons. But I am having problems with the clock spring. Mine has an 8 wire plug with only 6 pins on the big plug and all of the clock springs I have found have only a 6 wire plug for the big one. Without changing my clock spring I have no where to plug in the cruise wiring. All have been for right year model with cruise and even tried different years but none will plug in under the dash.
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My truck has an intermittent shake with a grinding/binding kind of noise. It seems to happen at lower speeds, generally when slowing down and turning. When I apply the brakes or speed up it seems to stop the noise.
The rubber/plastic seal on the back of the wheel hub is loose on both drivers and passenger side but I don't think that is the problem. I'm wondering if it is the u-joints or something.
The brakes look shiny and i don't see any scratches on them so I don't think there is a rock or something in there. I have the wheel hubs in the auto setting, and it is a 4x4. The truck is a early 99 7.3L with a leveling kit and 230k miles.
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Truck is 2007 6.0L 4 door F-250 FX4
So this started after some High water encounters around my area. All freshwater. Went to the store and then i notice the truck pulling Left and got home and checked brake temps and the driver front and rear were over 400*F passenger side was 150* or less. No trailer no load in the bed. I decided to clean everything. Pads are worn but still have life.
Rotors showed some signs of where the pad is dragging Not bad though just a small area close to the top hat. I cleaned pads, carriage, and clips and reinstalled everything with some anti seize on the edges of the pads where the clips are and at the same spots on the carriage.
Thought it was ok but the after more water and a day or two sitting the same thing happened again. It is only the drivers side and it's both front and rear. I am stumped on this one. Two calipers going bad at once? I need to tow a boat on Monday So I have got to fix this.
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What this might be? (see pic)....
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