Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 - Brakes Sticking Partly On?
Oct 8, 2015
On my 02 Superduty 4x4 7.3, I just replaced all the rotors,calipers,& pads because two were seizing up, so I decided to do all 4. It's still happening?! What could be causing this? They were all bled of the air & flushed with new fluid. I spent a lot of money here so I don't want to wreck any new parts, so it is parked now until I can get it fixed.
As I was coming home yesterday, as it was shifting up thru the gears it was dragging & held up on 2nd before it went into high & was hard keep moving & the RPM's were higher than normal, then all of a sudden pop and everything let go,it quit dragging, shifted into OD. Before this point I noticed the brake pedal seemed to be higher and hard?
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Read alot about a brake sticking and changing out the caliper or the pin or the hose but did not come accross a problem with all four sticking. When I leave in the morning brakes are fine and once the heat up all four get supper hot when I get to my destination and the truck is very sluggish, the brakes are sticking and it is all four. Changed the calipers on all four but did not work. Changed a brake line (not hose) that was rusting out, did nothing. I am leaning towards the master and its valve because all four are effected.
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2003 F250 V10 4x4. I have a rear brake sticking so I assume I have to replace the calipers. Which brand should I go with?
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Took the truck out the other night, got to town felt the slight drag but nothing alarming, got out of the truck and could smell it, rear drivers side rotor glowing red, pass side not glowing, pressed park brake then released, driver side freed on its own, pass side sticking, replaced pass side rotor and pads, found nothing out of the ordinary... Ford F250 4x4, 2005 ....
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I have a 2002 Ford F250 Superduty with a 7.3 diesel. Brakes started sticking on it. I replaced all the calipers cause the boots were starting to crack but not leaking. All four brakes are still sticking. I can drive a little ways and then the brake peddle feels funny and they start dragging all four. I can loosen the bleeder and brake fluid will spray out and release the brakes for awhile.
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I have a 2002 ford f350 triton 5.4 V8. I just put front brake pads on my truck today. Started driving around and i could smell burning brakes. Stopped and alot of smoke was coming from my brakes on my front passenger side but nothing from the front drivers side. Replaced all the brake pads on the front. What is making them so hot?
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I just hit a pothole on my way home just now and now my front right caliper is sticking. It happen about 10min from my house. As soon as i hit the pothole I can feel my truck pulling to the right and felt like there was some resistance when i was driving. I got home and peeked my head in the wheel-well and i can smell the brakes burning and smoking a little. How would hitting a pothole cause a caliper to stick. Is there anyway to unstick it or am i gonna have to change that caliper out...
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Problem started with the front end shaking a little bit when braking like the rotors needed turning. Then the brakes began to intermittently hum when stopping. Then my ABS light came on. Put the truck up on the stands and disassembled the brakes on both sides. The ABS sensor was chewed up on the driver side. The less than year old hub felt sloppy so I changed it. Put everything back together.
New hub came with new ABS sensor. Went for a test drive ABS light is gone and I no longer shake or experience the hum when applying the brakes. However now when I go to stop right before I come to a complete stop the driver side (new hub/spindle side) I hear what sounds like the grade school class clown making a fart sound with his mouth, and the truck pulls to the driver side. Is the ABS system malfunctioning or is this a caliper issue? Calipers look like they are OEM.
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Just noticed today that my cruise control on/off button is sticking. Push to off it stays pushed off, push it up to on and it stays up so i must physically center it myself. Is there a way to remove the button and take it apart to clean and regrease the contacts so it doesnt stick? Kinda dumb actually since i might have used it eight or ten times since buying the truck new....
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after replacing rotors,calipers,pads,hoses and hardware with OEM parts TWICE now I'm still having issues with my brakes sticking and dragging!!! I am starting to suspect the pistons within the calipers themselves. I think that Quality (expensive) aftermarket parts is going to be my soulition but would like to get some input from some fellow Super Duty owners before I pull that trigger.
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Ok so I think I have sticking calipers on the rear passenger side of my truck, not 100% sure but ill be getting under the truck tomorrow to check. My question is how hard is it to fix this and how long do you think it will take? I have all the right stuff to get the truck jacked up and I have enough money to do this, time is just the issue. It gets dark around 4:30-5:00pm here and I get home from school at 3pm, and have work also but not until saturday this week.
I'd prefer to do this after school if possible because I've stopped driving it so that way I don't wear down my brake rotors and pads for no good reason. I have to drive the work truck that has many of its own issues but its driveable, headlights are very dim due to oxidization and is dangerous to drive in the snow due to the tires (no money to replace right now). How hard and how long this would be? What else it could be shoot! The problem is, it slows down if i let off the gas as if i was breaking, high heat from rear passenger side brakes/burning rubber smell.
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I know this has been talked about many times and how to solve the issue but thought I would ask some other questions too. Earlier in the summer, I did grease the slider pins as preventative maintenance. I don't drive my truck all that much and when I used it yesterday, (about 30 minute drive) I came home to burning brake smell. I'm wondering if enough heat would cause the caliper to go bad? Should I just grease the pins again or change out some parts?
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I have a 2010 F250 V10 4x4. about every 3-4 times when you start the truck....it seems as though the starter "sticks". If I catch it and shut it off and then turn the key right back it fires up and does not stick. Its as if the gear is staying kicked out into the flywheel. Are we thinking the starter itself? I'm thinking starter...but looking for input before I crawl under it.
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I just recently purchased my 1999 ford F-250 superduty V8 5.4 5 speed with 144,00 miles and I'm having a issue with the clutch pedal sticking in and then it will pop out after a couple seconds. It will stick more when I come to a light and have my foot on the clutch but the pickup drives fine and there is no slipping of the clutch. I have never experienced this issue before in any rig I've owned. so I'm a little lost at the moment.
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I have 2014 F350, was previous flood damaged, the steering keep sticking when I turn it to the left, not always in the same spot, but sometimes it just locks and will not turn right, needs lots of jiggling and then it release, as I say in different places but always when turning to the left, never when turning to the right. Does this indicate steering gear fault or something else?
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Two weeks ago did a road trip to NH from RI and i heard a slight dragging only at low speed (10-15mph) in my left rear tire. figured the caliber was dragging a little, it was. Before arriving in NH the brake light came on. Long story short i get back to RI and the left side noise gets worse and starts to lock up. I finally replace the rotor which was warped, pads, and caliper which was bad.
Was driving it same day and still here the same dragging and screeching noise and the brake light is still on. On my way home the left side locked up at low speed without hitting breaks and slid the truck, mid you all parts are new on that side. I am not sure what it could be at this point something in side the axle?
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I use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
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A couple of times recently my brakes have been very hot when I stopped. I took it to my mechanic who took it for a drive and then used an IR thermometer to measure the rotor temps. The front right and rear left rotors were at least 40 degrees higher than their opposites on the same axle. He believes it is probably the master cylinder..
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I don't know if this is even a problem or not. Do the front brakes get hot on the one ton dualy? I wouldn't have even noticed it except when I went to the car wash, when I sprayed water on the tires and rims to wash them, I noticed steam coming off the front brakes. Think I have a problem or not? I can put it into "drive" and it rolls freely. It doesn't feel like anything is sticking.
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1999 F-250 4x4 PSD, 160k miles. Sometimes, at low speed like 5mph or less, when braking the brakes are almost gone and one can feel the stiff pedal coming back up when stepping on it hard to make the truck stop. The ABS is set to not kick in at this low speed, right? Truck throws no code and shows no warning lights (ABS light in dash works with key on-engine off) when this happens. Pull the related ABS fuse and problem goes away. Where to look?
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My Superduty has been pulling to the left when I hit the brakes for a few months now. In the past it's done it, like within a year or two after buying it brand-new off the lot, but that was because one brake pad had rusted itself to the bracket and was not doing a darn thing. Once or twice more, it was a stuck caliper pin, which was quite obvious when working on it.
Last year, around August, I replaced the rotors and pads with Advanced Auto parts stuff. Rotors are still great, pads look brand-new, and it wasn't pulling up until the past month or two.
But this most recent pulling has been a problem that I can't find. It's not the pins, it's not the pads, and now I find out, it wasn't the calipers
This past weekend I went so far as to replace the calipers with Napa rebuilt "semi-loaded" calipers (all hardware and pins and bracket, except for the pads) and pressure-bleed the entire system. The old fluid was green, not black, but now that it's been bled, the pedal is a bit firmer than it was.
I wasn't going to replace the calipers without checking them first, but I broke both bleed nipples off and I wasn't about to wrestle with an easy-out and try to get the darn things out. Per side, rebuilt caliper with hardware and bracket, can't go wrong. (Checking the calipers would have involved using a C-clamp to compress the caliper slightly, then backing off the C-clamp - if the pistons come back out a slight degree, they are free and the seals are still "grabby" and resilient).
While bleeding it, I saw a piece of black crud (rubber?) about 2-3mm in size come out of the left side. Didn't think much of it, figured it was just built up crud from somewhere.
Today, the first commute after doing the calipers and bleeding, it's still pulling just like it was before the calipers. However, I did notice at one point when I hit them, they pulled like they normally do, but seemed to go straight a few seconds into it. It does seem that if I keep my foot on the brake, the pulling is much less after the initial second or two, but if I stab them again, it pulls like crazy.
And by "pull" I mean the steering wheel actually moves in my hand. So with that in mind, it's actually a front-brake problem. If it was the rears, the wheel wouldn't pull like it does, and if it was something loose in the suspension, I would have found it already after checking everything, and it again, wouldn't pull the steering wheel like that.
Now, given that black piece of whatever that came out of the left side, I'm beginning to wonder... if it was rubber from the inside of the hose.
Is the right brake hose causing the pulling because it's coming apart just like the left one might be?
I've gone over and over this in my head this morning, and thought about the ABS unit possibly dumping pressure from the right because of a leaky valve (see side note below), but I would think that once the pedal stab was over, it would even out and not pull at all.
However, this thing pulls left quite a bit, even after the pedal has been held down for quite some time. Usually. Sometimes, it subsides and doesn't pull. But mostly it does no matter what I do, keep pressure on the pedal, let up and reapply, whatever.
Does this really sound like a bad hose? It's intermittent, but usually pulls like 90% of the time.
Side note: The ABS unit in my truck, and most Fords of the time (not sure about later than 2004 or so) is a Kelsey-Hayes three-channel unit like this:
Kelsey-Hayes RWAL Antilock Brakes
It's the same system found in Chevy Suburbans and light-trucks, which I have worked on before and know a bit about.
In my case, it can't be a dump valve leaking, because it would effect pedal-height and not PULL to one side like it does. The only way that could happen is if the isolation valve was closed, AND the dump valve were leaking at the same time.
I haven't, however, gotten the ABS to activate just to see if it changes anything. On my way home tonight I will see if I can find some dirt or sand and get it going
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