I have a problem with 2002 7.3dsl stalling out at low speed or letting your foot off the accelerator. How ever problem is intermittent. Also intermittently idles rough. What to check next.
View 13 RepliesRecently had an oil cooler EGR cooler replaced. On my first big tow broke down on a major highway. Got it towed to the dealership and diagnosed as a blown out IPR screen. Replace the entire IPR and had no problems the entire trip. A few week later I am sensing the same problems again that i had before the major blowout. Randomly while driving down the highway the truck will stall for a half second or so and then kick back in and continue fine. Seems like the truck loses fuel for a second and then regains itself.
And it's not always at speed either...sometimes just coming to a stop I can feel it. Now this has only happened three times in the past 10 days or so but seems like it needs to get addressed. These symptoms are similar to what I experienced before my major IPR blowout. After it was replaced I didn't have any of the stalling problems but its now happening again. Could I possibly have some gunk in the IPR again that's causing this intermittent problem? Or something else altogether?
My 2002 7.3 will go dead when driving then not start up until after it has sat for a good hour. Then only run for about 10 minutes before dying again. The truck will stay running if left in park idling. It only stalls when it is driving.
I replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor and Alternator with Genuine Motorcraft parts. My next assumption is the ICP Sensor? Maybe. I do have a kill switch on the truck that I thought might be loose--but I'm not sure.
I have a 2002 F250 superduty with a 5.4 in it, every once in awhile it starts to sputter. Its usually when i'm easing on the gas, possibly around a certain rpm and completely random. Once it starts i can get on the gas a little and it stops. i've changed to fuel filter and air filter recently so i know its not that.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 5.4 L with an intermittent Misfire. A little history on the truck in 2011 I replaced the motor with a Ford long block motor, only the block, I used my electronics, intake, etc, this was brand new from Ford. The truck has a total of over 300K miles. Recently it has developed an intermittent misfire. I have changed all the coils and plugs and the misfire is still present. The codes are showing a misfire in cylinder 3 but could be 4 too. The misfire is intermittent because this morning I changed the plugs and truck ran fine, drove to store and it started missing, turned truck off and started up and ran fine again. It has been doing this off and on for a few weeks.
View 10 Replies2002 F350 7.3 intermittently wont start after I've shut it off, it runs fine but sometimes won't start when it's (warm)? Wait hour or more and it starts right up.
View 2 Replies2002 f-350 diesel 4x4 7.3l. It stalls out a few times lately( and starts right back up) and it runs rough like there is an air bubble then smooths out. Changed 1 fuel filter and the pcv valve. 96,000 miles.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
View 9 RepliesCurrently My AC / Heat blower motor operates but, speed 1 and 2 are the same, 3 and 4 are fine. I replaced the blower rheostat that is located on the firewall, but still no difference in fan speed.. A few years ago the blower only operated on Hi and the rheostat was the problem then.
View 3 RepliesProblem started with the front end shaking a little bit when braking like the rotors needed turning. Then the brakes began to intermittently hum when stopping. Then my ABS light came on. Put the truck up on the stands and disassembled the brakes on both sides. The ABS sensor was chewed up on the driver side. The less than year old hub felt sloppy so I changed it. Put everything back together.
New hub came with new ABS sensor. Went for a test drive ABS light is gone and I no longer shake or experience the hum when applying the brakes. However now when I go to stop right before I come to a complete stop the driver side (new hub/spindle side) I hear what sounds like the grade school class clown making a fart sound with his mouth, and the truck pulls to the driver side. Is the ABS system malfunctioning or is this a caliper issue? Calipers look like they are OEM.
My radio, power windows and map lights all at the same time work intermittently. I have changed the relay. No blown fuses. Sometimes they all work and then for no reason that I can tell, they all go off. right before they all come back on (which you never know when it will happen) I hear a click in our around the fuse panel.
View 1 RepliesTruck is an 02 F250 Automatic 4X4, 7.3 PSD.
Cruise control will turn on, will sometimes set speed and sometimes will not. If it does set and work it may kick off at any second or it may run fine. I have noticed it seems to kick off mainly after going over a slight bump in the highway or it may just kick off for the hell of it. Truck has 50,000 miles on it, I bought it new. Also having trouble with the throttle position sensor, it seems to have a "dead spot" at about 58 mph that shows up when I romp down on the pedal to pass on 2 lane roads. Can these two symptoms be related? Both are very aggravating. FWIW it does have the power adjust pedals. Truck is 100% stock, no power chips or other upgrades.
I have an 08 F250 supercab 5.4L that I bought this past July. The truck has 153000 miles on it now it had 150000 when I bought it. I don't drive it every day just usually on weekends and when I need the truck. The truck was really well maintained and had all the work done at a local ford garage. I live in western pa and lately it has been pretty cold and snowy so I have been using the 4x4 more than I normally would the past few days. My wife was driving the truck the day before yesterday and had it in 4x4.
The past 2 nights it has been really cold right around 0 degrees. I drove the truck yesterday and it just didn't seem right when I first drove it almost like there was a tire going flat or a flat spot with one of the tires. I got out and checked and everything seemed ok but it was still doing that. I saw that the passenger side hub was still locked while the drivers side was on auto and I was in 2 wheel drive. When I got home I sprayed the hubs down with PB Blaster and tapped on them with a rubber mallet. I put the truck back in 4x4 and drove it down my road to the end then put it back in 2 wheel drive and reversed down the road. When I got back into my driveway and checked the hubs were both in auto so all was good. T
he only thing now is when I am driving everything is normal but when I start to brake or decelerate I get a humming noise like you would get with off road tires on the highway. I wouldn't say that it is that loud but definitely noticeable and there is a vibration in the floor in the front along with the humming. When I am going really slow decelerating you can also hear a noise similar to if you would spin one of those wheels with the metal pegs at a carnival or something to win a prize.
When decelerating from 40-50+ mph, I sometimes hear a ticking sound, like a clock winding down. The ticking gets slower and slower and then when I'm around 10 mph, the ticking abruptly stops and I hear and feel a loud/strong clunk.
It doesn't happen every time I decelerate, but it does happen a few times every time I drive it. Once in a while it will happen when slowing down from slower speeds, but only after I've been in stop and go traffic for a while.
I read about the slip joint grease problem, so I tried that, but my problem is still there. It's a manual transmission, 4wd, 5.4L F-250 Super Duty standard cab, long bed.
I need to replace, its either a brake pressure sensor or speed control deactivation switch . Would like to know which it is and can I get a generic one from other auto parts beside a ford dealer Can post a pic of part as soon as I figure out how to do that exactly. 2002 f250 super duty....
View 8 RepliesTurns out I have a loose injector head. The electrical body on top of the injector has separated from the bottom half of the injector. I do not know which injector it is or what side it is on. I know this is what happened because I found the head of the screw in my oil when I changed my oil for good measure and found the nut stuck to the oil plug.
2004.5 F250 SD XLT 4dr 6.0L
CAI, 4" Straight exhaust
EGR Delete, 6.4 Injector pump
Coolant filtration system.
New injectors al around
New ICP, New IPR, New Oil Cooler.
Recently Bulletproofed on ARP head studs, and the stock Head gasket,
New injector harness and FICM from DieselTech Ron
SCT tuner, running innovative diesel tunes. EGT Sensor
37x13.5r18 nitto trail grrappleers
No, I do not have a bad injector [Or I guess I do!!. This explains why it was testing ok. but still acting like a bad injector] , or a bad ICP. The Head is not leaking nor is the potentiometer [TPS] or CPS bad. All of these things have been replaced. Even the injector harness has been replaced. The only thing I have not done is remove the valve cover and making sure all the injectors are tight.
I recently had a contribution error on cylinder 8. Hence the extensive ends I went to above. The new harness and FICM connectors fixed that part of the problem, but apparently the bucking and stalling were not related to that.
No codes are coming up. I'm running an SCT tuner with Innovative Diesel's Extreme Street tune. 4" strait pipe, S&B CAI, 6.4l Injection pump, bulletproofed with ARP head studs, new oil cooler, egr delete, coolant filtration, EGT sensor, SCT tuner, etc etc. Everything but larger injectors. [was coming next]
The truck runs perfect, actually better than perfect after the harness, TPS repair, UNTIL I REACH OVER 60 MPH. At 60+ it starts bucking until i get below 45-50, then I can get back up to speed but no faster than 60. If I let off it real fast while bucking, it stalls.
Fuel PSI issue? The injection PSI isnt affected. Pulse width, normal.
I commute... [At 60 mph lately...] Sounds like I have a loose injector wire under the valve cover.
My current truck is an early 99 F250, 7.3L diesel, CC 4x4(manual shift transaxle) auto transmission. It is basically stock, with the exception of a hutch/harpoon and a new fuel pump over the winter, an AIS intake. I have a magnaflow exhaust kit in the garage along with bellowed up pipes but have not installed them yet.
Here is my issue. Several times over the last 2 years, the truck will pull a load, or long trip, and with complete randomness, the engine will feel like it has shut off, there is usually a jerk or two, and the truck "restarts" itself and continues on like nothing happened. Last year we drove 1.5 hrs from home with the boat in tow, driving up Snoqualmie pass, and it died completely, no restart. We had to be towed home. It started right up at the shop, so no real clue of what happened.
When this happened, I had the fuel system checked for pressure and replaced the engine fuel filter, and all was good. I also had the Cam position sensor replaced/updated to the new grey sensor. Shortly after, I had the minor jerk/stall occur again, so I replaced the fuel pump and did the hutch/harpoon mod to ensure there wasn't an intermittent fuel pressure loss and that the in tank filters were not clogged.
Last weekend, i pulled my boat to Oregon, and the same "hiccup" happened as I was about 1.5 hrs into my trip. it was fine after that the rest of the 4 hr trip. We also drove back the same route and had no problems.
I have a 2005 f250 5.4 auto trans and the past few days the truck has been stalling randomly while driving and some times not restarting right away. Now today it stalled a few times. once while driving, once when i sitting in it trying to load up obd2 scanner. I got it home and it started running rough for 2 mins then it would stall out. It did that 3 or 4 times and now it stalled while sitting in drive way and wont start at all. it wont crank. no fuel pump noise any more.
The odometer goes out and just has a bunch of flat lines. I can not get scanner to connect anymore. it never had any codes before when it was stalling. When I could get scanner to work it had 42psi of fuel pressure. battery and starter are good. all the fuses are good and I can hear the pcm relay clicking when I turn the key and swapping relays does nothing. I can hear a very rapid clicking noise from the throttle body area. What that could be? is the pcm fried? what would cause it to fry? how can i test pcm? if get used pcm does dealer have to program it?
Some time ago, stalling situation I had with my V-10 engine in my motorhome.
I received several good suggestions but none of them seemed to work. I took the motorhome to the Ford Dealer and they could not come up with an answer.
As a last resort, I decided to change out the Computer and asked the dealer to order one for me. Ford no longer makes this computer. So, they had to order a re-built. While waiting for the re-built, it occurred to me that I have a Banks exhaust system in the motorhome and I called Banks to see if there was something I should do regarding their system. They simply told me to remove their chip and replace it in the new Computer. Then bring it into their offices to have it flash programed. I relayed this information to the Ford mechanic and he removed the chip. The motorhome ran fine on the original computer with no stalling what-so-ever.
Unfortunately, Ford had already ordered a re-built computer so I was committed to having it installed. I decided to keep the original as a back up. I made an appointment with Banks to have the new computer flash programed to their chip. While I was there, the Banks mechanic told me that it is a common for the chip connections to become dirty and cause stalling. He cleaned the connections and put it back in the motorhome.
I wish, Banks had told me this is a common problem when I first called them. The chip is on the outside top of the computer and is easily removed and installed. Takes about five minutes to clean the connections and re-install.
I bought my son a 07 F250. 5.4L and he tells me it is dying on him, it started out with it trying to die when going into reverse, now he can't keep it running much at all. He took it to the Firestone shop and they are telling him one of the camshafts is probably bad... I highly doubt it. And a new 3k motor is what he needs...
The truck has 145k on it and has been well maintained and just had the oil and fluids changed. Air filter is good, battery is new as well. Only thing I can think of is to clean the throttle body and air meter, he lives 200 miles away so it is hard to troubleshoot over the phone. Any pointers to look at? possible vacuum leak somewhere?
Here's what I have 2000 F350 XLT 105000 miles and a 4R100 tranny, was coming home from work no issues, stopped at my mailbox to retrieve mail.
when applying brake, it lunged forward a bit and stalled, I started back up put in drive, stalled again. started back up put in reverse, no issues.
I put in neutral revved it somewhat and it moved forward enough to start the roll down the small slope at my drive, I then started in neutral again as was rolling and then put into drive and drove 1/2 mile down my lane to house. backed up in my parking spot, no problems then shifted to drive and stalled.
Today I dropped the pan and checked the filter as I have read that sometimes they will fall out and cause same symptoms, filter was where it was supposed to be, no easy cure here.