Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 - 6 To 8 Ft Bed Exchange?
Sep 7, 2017
Looking to see how is involved in changing the box size from 6.5 to a 8 foot box. It's an extended cab, not sure about frame length or if the wheel wells will be an issue.
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One of the super coils busted while driving my 2002 F250 Super Duty. I drove it for less than 100 ft. before parking it. It made a rapid "check,check,check,check" sound, which I'm assuming was mainly the coil smacking against other parts while loose. It busted near the point where it screws into the motor. I felt like I lost some compression as it drove sluggishly once broken, although I only drove for a very short time. I also thought I may have smelt a slight burning scent, or maybe oil, but didn't smell anything once I got out of my truck. Any problems I should look forward to other than simply replacing this coil?
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I have a 2002 f250 4.2 diesel with a 5 speed manual box and i want to put a 7.3 in it. Does it fit?and can i make the 5 speed tranny fit?
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I just bought myself an '02 F-350XL 4X4 with a 7.3l, love the truck, but I've got an issue. When you first start the truck and the chimes go through their little ditty, about 3 seconds later they go off again.. but this time they chime five times and cycle five times, so a total of 25 times over a certain period.. seems to do it about every half hour, could this be related to the clock somehow? The truck is bare bones basic, XL trim level Reg cab, Auto with tilt, cruise and A/C, oh and the premium stereo...
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About 6 months ago my 4 wheel drive stoped working and I wasn't worried about it because I never used it. I did mess around with it allitle bit to try and fix it the one time I did need it. Long story short I was involved in the floods near Houston these past few days but my truck was never in more than a a foot of water. I went up the store and grabbed a few drinks and went home. tuesday when I went to get in my truck to head back to college station for school it was stuck in 4x4 low. whick puzzled me because my 4 wheel drive hasn't worked in a good while.
When I turn the key on there is no 4x4 lights that come on momentarily and when I turn the 4x4 switch still no lighst come on. Again its been this way for 6 months. I tested the two relays under the hood and both of them have power. there is no power going to the switch in my dash and no power going to the solenoid on the transfer case. Wich is why I am confused on how it went into 4x4 low. I assuming it is in 4x4 low because of how fast the tranny shifts and I know its locked because I cant turn my front drive shaft while in neutral. The hubs are unlocked. I just printed out a shematic and am gonna try to figure out why my 4x4 isn't working.. to hopefully fix it so I can get my truck out of 4x4.
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my oil pan gasket is leaking on my 2002 f350 5.4l 4x4. I have read lots of threads on replacing this gasket on an f150 but haven't seen one for an f250/350. so what is the procedure to do this job on an f350?
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i have a 2002 f250 i drove it lat night parked it came home from work at about 3 and noticed my head lights were on and just headlights. I open the door and see that the switch is in the off position too. WEIRD HUH ? they wont go off. I tried to unplug the switch and nothing.
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Just brought my 2006 f250 crew cab v8 to the garage. My muffler has a fairly large hole in it. My mechanic said the piping to the muffler is still in good shape and literally, the only part that requires replacing is the muffler itself. I told him I'd like a bit more of a "throaty" sound than the original stock muffler. He suggested the dynomax super turbo. I checked a few US websites and it's about half price there with free shipping. In fact, most mufflers are about half price in the States. There are so many to choose from, Which brand and model to go with. I'd like to keep it as close to a direct fit as I can seeing as all the pipes are still good.
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I recently bought a 2002 F350 and so far, the only issue I've had with it is I can't find out why the ABS light is on. I've looked around and found that it's probably caused by the speed sensors. But this is where I run into issues. From what I've seen, a bad sensor will generally give a reading of 0 ohms, but none of mine do. The rear diff sensor gives me ~1800 ohms, which I believe is OK.
The front driver side reads about 700 which is I know is a little lower than it should be, and then my passenger side reads ~42 mega ohms. Both the front sensors kind of threw me off since what I've read says they should all read about 1200-2500 ohms. Any other things I should check or should I just go ahead and replace both front sensors? I've just looked around and have barely been able to find anything about the front sensors.
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2002 F250 SD 4x4 crew cab, v10. 4x4 not working. Replaced switch on dash, not the problem. Some of told me it was the vacuum control module. Not sure where to start.
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Just completed the rebuild on the front end of my 02 f350 and of course I had to take the abs sensors out, everything is good but now my abs light is on. Is there a method I can use or do i have to hook it up to scanner and erase the code.
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I have a 2002 Ford Superduty. I recently had installed a BDS 8 inch suspension lift. I also had the upper and lower ball joints replaced. All this work was done by a certified garage. Today i went to pull out my boat from the ramp, turn the switch inside the cab to 4x4 high. The light came on but 4x4 did not engage. As i pulled the boat out of the water the rear tire spun in the sand but the front did not. As i cleared the ramp and on level ground i turn the switch off and back on i heard not but the light can on. With the 4x4 light on i turn the wheel and pulled forward i noticed no hopping as when a truck is in 4x4. Initially when i turn the 4x4 switch on i hear a clunk up front but not after. Drove home drive train appeared fine no noise.
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2002 - f250... I originally posted this issue in July of '03. Nothing has changed.
1. At max ac, regardless of how hot it is, the ac clutch cycles due to low pressure once the cabin temp reaches about 78 degrees. This is not acceptable or expected in my opinion.
2. I have run extensive tests, done this for years, and the conclusion is that there is too much pressure drop in the evaporator. I'm seeing 5-7 psi drop measured using a Fluke digital temp probe, insulating the probe tip around the pipe. Compare outlet of orifice tube several as far away from orifice as possible and comparing to outlet temp of evaporator where it comes out of the plastic shrowd. Convert temp to pressure.
I've seen many posts over the years of people not happy with '99 to '04 ford truck ac operation at cruising speed. I have confirmed that the compressor is cycling way too much to cool the cab down. I even ran an experiment where I completely blocked the condensor to raise the head pressure and the compressor still cycked at 1500 rpm's with the cab above 75 degrees on a 90+ degree day.
My next step is to blow out the evaporator and see how much oil and junk I get out of it. I'm also considering taking the evaporator out and trimming the rubber gasket that is around it. It is blocking about an inch of the coil face all the way around.
My conclusion still is that the evaporator just isn't loading up enough as if it's partially clogged. There is only about 2 psi drop between the outlet of the evaporator and the compressor.
The compressor cuts out at 21 psi so the low pressure cutout switch is working properly.
What should I use to flush the evaporator out? Will mineral spirits do it as long as I blow it out real well and make sure I get all of it out? Also wondering if I should blow out the condensor thinking maybe there is something clogging it up.
In spite of some folks on this forum saying it is normal for the compressor to cycle at cruising speed, that is a correct statement depending on many factors. In my case, the cycling is not normal or expected. I have also tried:
1. VOV
2. Larger orifice
3. 14 oz charge over what the sticker says
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At work weve got an 02 F250 Lariat CC, and the overhead console has gone out. I looked in the owner's manual, and there was no fuse listed for the overhead console. Is there anything that I can do to fix it, or should we just go out and buy a new one?
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2002 Ford F350 7.3...
After replacing the Glow Plug Module and the cam sensor. I have no codes on the scanner. However, after driving the truck for one hour or two it stalled and after cool down about a while t started and stalled after hot. Now I been reading lots of info and this is what I got so far.
Flow Sensor
Fuel injector control
Fuel pump
And one person said that he change the wire harnesses for glow plug on top of the head covers?
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I have an 02 F450 with a dump bed an just under 45,000 miles (was barley used by the first owner). This maybe unrelated to my problem but is worth mentioning. This past week I noticed a small puddle where I had previously parked at a customers house so I checked the oil. I was about 2 quarts low. I followed the oil trail up and found a pool in the valley. One of the high pressure lines were loose and the seal was chewed up so I replaced it and tightened it. No more oil leak.
Now my new problem. Two days later, after about 45 minutes on the interstate driving about 75 mph the truck started to rapidly lose power as if it was running out of fuel. I heard a loud ticking sound coming from the engine and the more I tried to accelerate the worse it got. I pulled over and the truck stalled. I thought that maybe my fuel gauge had crapped the bed on me because it still read a little over 1/4 tank. I called a buddy and got more deisal in it and it started right up. We'll after about 5 minutes of 60 mph it started to happen again. So to fast forward... I opened up the tank and found the the strainer had crumbled in the bottom of the tank.
So I cleaned out the screens in the sending unit and replaced the strainer, replaced the fuel filter, and reverse blew out the lines. I read about checking the hpop reservoir for oil and it is present. So to sum up, as long as I stay under 60mph or so I can get about 5 minutes of run time before the truck starts to stutter and stumble. If I shut it off for about 5minutes I can go back up to 60 again but it the cycle continues. 5 on and 5 off. If I start the truck after say 30 seconds after shutting it off it sounds like it's going to die and has no power at all. I have worked on a lot of vehicles but none with anything like this and this is my first deisal. What do I do to get this beast back to normal?
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Question on my 2002 f350 front end conversion to 2015 front end ? I need to know, how the wiring goes to the wiper motor to get it wired up...
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I have a 2002 F250 superduty with a 5.4 in it, every once in awhile it starts to sputter. Its usually when i'm easing on the gas, possibly around a certain rpm and completely random. Once it starts i can get on the gas a little and it stops. i've changed to fuel filter and air filter recently so i know its not that.
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I have a 2002 F250 5.4 L with an intermittent Misfire. A little history on the truck in 2011 I replaced the motor with a Ford long block motor, only the block, I used my electronics, intake, etc, this was brand new from Ford. The truck has a total of over 300K miles. Recently it has developed an intermittent misfire. I have changed all the coils and plugs and the misfire is still present. The codes are showing a misfire in cylinder 3 but could be 4 too. The misfire is intermittent because this morning I changed the plugs and truck ran fine, drove to store and it started missing, turned truck off and started up and ran fine again. It has been doing this off and on for a few weeks.
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2002 Superduty 7.3 ESOF. I used 4x4 last week and the transfer case engaged and disengaged great. Yesterday I tried and got no response. I got home, checked the 2 relays by the brake booster and checked the fuses related to the ESOF system. Those check out good. I ohm checked the position switch on dash(2wd, 4x4 hi, 4x4 low) and it passed. I bench tested the electric shift motor and it works both directions just fine. I also jumped the relays and the transfer case shifted to 4x4 hi and low fine and the cluster indicator lights light up properly. Put everything back together, took a lil break and tried it again with key on truck off (so I can hear the transfercase) Went in and out both HI and LOW great about 4 to 5 times then got stuck in 4 LOW. I manually got it out by jumping the relays again. Tried again today. It went into 4x4 HI great, put in neutral brake on and went into 4x4 LOW great. But it will NOT come out of 4x4 LOW. Im stumped and don't want to just start throwing parts at it.
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Let me start out by saying that I have exhausted every option that I have read on every thread that I could find on the internet regarding my son's 2002 7.3L not starting. What I have is no 12v power to the starter solenoid at the starter when I crank the key. What we have done so far, had the starter and both batteries tested, all good. Swapped out the starter motor fuse and the starter relay. Tried a new ignition switch and a new trans position sensor. Found major corrosion in the fusible link junction box on the drivers inner fender so we cut out the fusible links and put in a temporary jumper wire, still no crank. I have power to the dash, power on the power cable at the starter. I can jump the terminals on the starter and the starter engages. I found the shifter linkage bolts loose under the dash and tightened them up also. We have been struggling with this for 3 days, out in the lovely Michigan weather, since it couldn't have died in his parking spot in our heated shop, and I am completely frustrated. Are we overlooking something glaringly obvious?
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