so long story short a few weeks ago my truck would start clicking the pump. Every 3 seconds it will click and stop. Tried different pumps, upside down, nothing works. Now it won't even go in like something is stuck in the fuel neck and its spitting gas back out. I stuck a wire and it went down pretty far. I see people saying the evap lines but I have no clue where they are.
View 9 RepliesI had a new Fuel Pump put in the cheaper plastic one into my 2001 F250 5.4 with a 112,000 miles.
Problem I am having since getting it back is when filling the gas tank up it will shut the pump off at 3/4 tank. I then have to sit there playing the squeezing game to get more gas in. The vent line looks fine no kinks in it and the tank looks level so what could be the issue causing me this headache?
Is there an easier way to fill the rear end on my '01 f250? I have a gadget with a valve on it with a length of tubing that you put on the bottle, but you still have to snake the bottle up through the chassis.
View 14 RepliesJust got back from a 2500 mile trip and the 800 mile DEF warning came on. Went to a DEF pump but it just filled the neck. Went to another DEF pump, same . Went home and used a Ford DEF jug with the Ford spout. It still will not go in. If I squeeze the jug, I can hear a little bit dropping into the tank.
The vent and fill pipes are not kinked. The vent hole in the fill tube looks clear. I washed off the top of the tank since there is a vent there.
Still no fill. I do not have a bore scope to look in the fill tube. I ran a 1/2 inch flexible hose down the fill tube until it stopped. Still no fill.
I have stripped my HPOP fill plug. Any experience on getting one out? And a part # for a new one?
View 10 RepliesI notice the gas nozzle clicks off all the time when I am filling my truck. Normally I just hold the nozzle up more and it seems to work.
F250. Slow fuel fill or fill nozzle keeps shutting off....
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Yesterday went to fill up ($4.05 a gallon geezz!) and noticed that after getting back into the cab, the fuel gauge still showed almost empty. So after yelling a few expletives, I looked again and noticed the gauge starting to make it's way up the dial. It took almost 30 min. before it showed almost full. I'm not sure what the problem is, as the gauge seems to still function. I don't drive the truck much as I use it as a tow vehicle. However, I do try and take it for a spin about 3-4 times a month just to exercise it. I was wondering if the fuel has started to gel and that is the reason for the slow fuel gauge response. Should I add a fuel conditioner/cleaner now that I have a full tank?
View 9 RepliesMy 2000 F-350 during fill-ups will spill out about a quart or more of gas from under the truck somewhere right when the filler clicks off. Also can smell fuel sometimes when between half and full tank. 2000 f350 SWR crew-cab 4x4, 5.4 gas.
View 3 RepliesMy 06 f250 with the 5.4 has a hard time being filled at the pump. So I followed the tsb and replaced the carbon canister, filter box and solenoid with the kit from my local ford dealer. Before it was impossible to get fuel in. Now it is way better but I have to fill it up with the gas nozzle upside down in order to fill at full speed. I have blown out the vent with compressed air.
View 6 RepliesI went out getting firewood in my 2001 F350 4X4 6.8l V10 auto . Backed up to the slash pile, put the truck in 4X4 Low and went to work.
When we finished I flipped the switch to 2WD, but the transfer case would not dis-engage and the IDIOT LIGHT on the dashboard stays on 4X4 Low... I can't get the truck out of 4X4 Low. I turned the hubs from auto to lockand its still stuck in low range.
Okay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?
My truck: 2001 F250 V8 Triton Automatic 4x4
Problem: 4x4 won't engage
Symptoms: No dash lights....nothing happens when I turn the 4x4 switch. When I start the truck I hear what sounds like a motor (transfer case motor maybe?) trying to switch (even though my dash switch is on 2WD)... It tries three times and stops.
What I've done: Checked fuses ...they appear ok to me
I don't have a maintenance manual yet ...
The 4x4 used to work up until about 2 weeks ago. Started having a hard time getting it to go into (and out of) 4x4 and then it just stopped all together.
I have been leaking oil on one of my work trucks. I do not know what the part is called or named. the leaks seems to be coming from above or behind a part that the driver side motor mount. As you can see in the image, the part has a sensor and a concave dip that runs along the middle of it. Well, I stuck my fingers behind that and it has a dip on the other side too which face up and that dip was puddled with oil. I need to know what that part is called or named or what is directly behind it that can be causing the leak. I hope its just a gasket and it is not cracked.
Part that is leaking behind. 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty V10
I recently replaced my abs sensor on my driver side front axle after I broke it trying to grease the hub bearing through the abs hole. Since replacement, start up routine is normal but the light stays on after I start driving. The mechanic out our shop put a code reader on it, said it couldn't read the bearing.
So I took everything back apart, cleaned the grease off the sensor with a paper towel and put everything back together and the light still comes back on. I'm not sure exactly what grease I used, same heavy duty grease I use on my tractor. What's my next step? Should I keep taking it apart and cleaning it? Will that fix it?
BTW the truck is a 2001 7.3 with 280k with some mild mods....
01 Superduty headlight burnt out. Its a sealed beam, haven't changed one of those for years. Most are bulbs.
Anyway I took all the screws I could see from around the headlight door and underneath it.
Headlights still in there as solid as when I started. What screws I seem to be missing?
My truck, 2001 F250 SuperCab 4x4 should be delivered any day from the Pacific Northwest. It has Zero rust on it and I want to keep it that way. Unfortunately here in Kansas City, Missouri most of the trucks of this vintage I see have rust around the back wheels on the bed. What steps, if any, can I take to prevent rust on my new truck? I'm pretty OCD about cleaning my vehicles (or anything for that matter, lol) so washing the wheel wells is a no-brainer.
View 14 Replies2001 f350 w/v10, 6.8. the fender mounted starter solenoid went out so I replaced it, while doing so I also replaced the battery (previous owner had a marine/rv battery installed, I purchased the truck a couple months ago). after replacement the truck still will not start. when attempting to start it barely if at all cranks, long story short I was going to have the starter tested but in the course of removing it the terminal posts broke off so I ended up replacing it too. The truck still would not start or really crank so I dug down with the expectation of finding a bad ground someplace. cleaned up the ground points. Now I have the battery on a charger awaiting it to finish recharging. Something that is likely/remotely likely to be causing the engine not to crank over and start that I have missed?
View 11 Repliesmy speedo doesn't work but, all the other gages do. I just replaced the front hubs, abs sensors, ball joints etc... I put a new sensor in the rear end this morning and still nothing isthere a fuse tied to this somewhere? am I missing something? it's a 5.4l with a 4r100
View 8 RepliesMy wife was using my truck and she felt it lost power and ran rough, so she pulled over can contacted me. We both are deaf, but I can hear some and it sounds really bad. So, I had it towed home and I recorded it.
2001 F250 5.4 V8....
Got a 2001 F350 diesel auto, 295k miles.
It has miss when over 2000rpm. Below 2000 its smooth.
ICP has oil in sensor, ordered new one. Gonna change oil too.
CPS is new (not sure if its black or the other one). Starts idles and drives good otherwise.
Where should I look?
I have an 01 f250 superduty bed is rusted what is the difference on a 04 f350 superduty dually bed to mine? Are they finished under the dually fenders?
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