just bought a 01 f350 v10, 40,000 miles, plowing beast, anyways when taking off truck seems sluggish, give it more gas as its fine. At idle there appears to be a skip. There are no check engine lights on, could it be the coil pack or even maybe fuel problem? Have done plenty to this beast to get it close to perfect and this motor issue is it.
View 14 RepliesBought this truck a few months back. Nothing but problems. I always thought it has felt a little underpowered and hesitant. I chalked it up to being a 5.4l in a f250. Well now im thinking it has been a symptom all along.
Lately, the truck has been stalling at stops. Randomly, but not often. The truck idles at 750rpm when I start it, but after driving and then coming to a stop while in overdrive it idles at 400rpm. This seems too low to me.
It hesitates occasionally when giving it throttle. Just today it got really bad and was almost unresponsive. I would hit the throttle and it would just idle while randomly kind of shooting up in RPS and shuddering. It finally produced some error codes, it looks like, but I am afraid to drive it all the way to the autozone.
I am thinking TPS. Is the TPS attached to the pedal or is the TPS attached to throttle body under the hood? I've read some conflicting stuff about this. The good news is that if it is the TPS then it should act like a whole new truck after I replace it.
My '01 7.3 is having some transmission problems, My O/D light is flashing. Trying to go after stopping at a light is a difficult, it drives very sluggish, like its not in overdrive. Scanned it and got three codes P0732, P0720, P0503. I replaced the ABS/VSS on the differential and the problem still exist.
View 1 RepliesA couple days ago, my Excursion started skipping 2nd gear when driving in D. The RPMs will go up to 3500 or so before slamming into 3rd gear. Shifting in all other gears works fine. However, when manually shifting through the gears (1, 2, D), it finds 2nd gear and shifts fine. I am mechanically inclined when it comes to engines, but not an auto trans.
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 f250 that seems like it has a bad coil, under a load it starts surging or bumping ( like it has in the past and I found a bad coil), I went through and unplugged each coil one by one while idling, couldn't find a bad one, so I bought a new coil and went through and rotated the coils, nothing worked, no check engine lights on.
View 9 RepliesI have a H&S mini max. Controller and have installed the mild download and run on the street setting for every day and tow setting while towing my fithwheel, when I just took it out for a test drive towing the fit wheel going up hill it kept shifting up and down which sure felt like 3rd and 5th because rpm would go from about 3500 to 1500 back and forth so it sure felt like it was not hitting 4th, could this be a controller issue?
View 4 RepliesSo sometimes the 4x4 takes awhile to engage. Both hubs are free turning (manual to auto). Drivers side only holds a few psi of vacuum. Passengers side 20ish. All seals have been replaced. Was tested right at the nipple on drivers side front. Switching hubs from side to side didn't change anything. 2 mechanics are unsure what to do aside from take a chance at replacing the wheel bearing. It does eventually go into 4x4 but takes awhile for 4x4 to engage and light on dash to come on.
View 14 RepliesOk here's the problem me and my dad just rebuilt a 7.3 in a 2001 f 350 we got everything running the got about 200 miles on the rebuilt the one day the oil guage starts freaking out we have replaced the sensor, pulled the cooler to make sure the plug wasn't stuck. the gauge gas the pressure is fine when the engine is revved up but when it idles it says it has no pressure. what else to look for. The engine is a rebuilt 7.3 turbo with oversized pistons everything else is stock.
View 2 RepliesMy '05 5.4 SD CCLB is running badly. 95k mikes. Plugs done 6 months ago. Acceleration is very sluggish. Sometimes uphill from a stop is almost impossible.
No CEL codes other than an intermittent coolant temp gauge that spikes but resets as soon as I shut down and restart.
When it is bogging the exhaust note changes - almost like there is a blockage. It is almost a booming sound. I would like to test to see if the cat is clogged. I have a vacuum gauge but need to find a vacuum source after the throttle body to do so. If I pull out the O2 sensors ( to allow the exhaust pressure to exit ) would the truck run badly because the O2 sensors were not functioning?
If it turns out that the converter is bad. Can I just eliminate the cats? I do not need emissions testing here in PA because the truck is so heavy. But I don't know if eliminating the cats will cause other problems.
2016 F250SD XLT CC 4X4...13K miles... Now with it being blazing hot in Florida I have been running windows up and a/c on. Beginning to notice the truck is not accelerating the same with the a/c on as it does with the a/c off. It seems like it sluggish till it gets to a certain RPMs then you feel it kick in and somewhat take off. Is this normal?
View 7 Replies2001 f250 v10 6.8l runs a little rough at idle, low rpm is ok between 1700 and 3000 rpm but around 3 it starts to shudder while driving let off gas get back on its fine, new plugs 1,000 miles ago has throttle body spacer and cold air intake, stock everything else..
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 f250 with the 5.4 I replaced the belt because of belt squeal and after replacing it the squeal is gone. now after the truck gets to its normal temp and I stop at a gas station for dip I will leave it running and when I come out it has this loud chirping noise it kinda sounds mechanical but it very well could be something on the belt drive. I am stumped it goes away after I start driving but I am kind of nervous about what it could be.
And the only time I hear it is while the truck is at normal temp and in park I have rolled the windows down and can not hear it while driving or at traffic lights. a part of me says it could be the fan clutch and now that it has a good belt on it I am hearing a sound of maybe the clutch going out or a pulley bearing starting to go out. Where I should go from here?
Just noticed today, while taking slight right turns 20-40MPH, I get a really loud and angry chirping sounds? Its only right turns...It sounds like a forest of angry crickets.
View 4 Replies99 F250 7.3 everyday worker, just recently my tranny slipped as I was taking off from a light, I thought hmm that's odd! Pulled away from the next light , it did not slip! Later in the day did it again, so I ran by the transmission shop to have a service done, to my surprise I was told service would not work, and a rebuild was going to be 3200-4k. truck has been used lightly for the last week or so, slips sometimes and not others. I still believe I need to have it serviced? can I do this myself ( I haven't a clue)....
View 7 RepliesSo on my way to work this morning taking off from a light on a smooth blacktop my message center lit up with "tire pressure sensor fault". is there any way to tell which sensor it is without a scan tool?
View 11 Replies2001 f350 v10, initial problem was when i came to stop at light it idled rough. I changed all plugs,injectors and COP, and bad connectors thereto. Changed the clock spring as well. Now the truck idles like crap at first start of of the day then run fine there after. Replaced IAC, TPS, Temp sensor. Condition getting worse and now the temp gauge does not work. I am thinking maybe CAT Converter loaded up?
View 2 Replies2002 f350 7.3 ... problems started all of a sudden one day. I have an edge evolution tuner in my stroke. I have it set to make all of my shifts firm. One day it started shifting really sluggish between 1st and 2nd gears only. It don't do it all the time, but it does it more often then it doesn't. I have also noticed when i come to a complete stop and then start out again it seems that it doesn't downshift all the way back to first and when i hit the gas it seems to kinda be stuck between gears and it barely moves until i get the rpms up before it will ease its way into 2nd and the converter locks up.
It shifts a through all the other gears just fine nice and firm like it should, its just the shift between 1st and 2nd. Im wondering if maybe it might be the speed sensors or maybe the tranny filter is getting clogged up? The fluid in it is still nice and red and up to the level it should be. I just bought the truck in october and the fluid was nice and red when i bought it, but who knows if they changed the filter. I have had NO tranny problems with it up until a few days ago when this little problem started.
I am having a bit of an issue with my new to me 2002 F350 V10 Ford, I have noticed a few times in the when taking off (first time after being parked)the truck will not shift into over drive unless I cycle the button on the shifter, after that the OD seems to work fine for the rest of the trip. Second thing I noticed is the "OD" light on the end of the shifter will come on at times (indicating the OD is off) even when the truck is in over drive, wiggling the shifter makes the light go out and the truck will not change gears. Would a new gear shifter fix this as it is a bit sloppy?
View 3 RepliesNeed better understanding of the wiring and turn signal selector than I do in my 07 6.0 HD. At first the issue started with the right front and right mirror blinking fast indicating a burnt out rear right turn signal. However after a few seconds the right rear will start working and the speed would be normal. I noticed it worse on very wet days making me think the rear tail light was letting in water and messing with the bulb. But it turns out it does it on nice days too.
These days it has evolved into the turn signal sometimes taking a few seconds before any of the right side actually starts to flash, also sometimes the indicator does not automatically deactivate after a right turn.
Giving the bottom of the steering column a calibrated tap usually always fixes the issue until the next turn.
Assuming its a bad turn signal selector switch Part number YL3T-13K359-ABJAEA but not knowing the wiring diagram I dont see how this bad switch would intermittently stop controlling the right rear turn signal. I would guess that it would tell the flasher left or right, not which lefts and which rights.
My '01 recently seized up and a buddy determined it was the AC pump. Replaced the belt with the bypass version. A month later, I moved across the state to Iowa. A couple weeks into living here I turned the truck on and it was idling really high (about 2500-3000) but would settle down to around 1100 when put in gear. However, shifting into gear is causing a progressively worse "jump" into gear. Hadn't really had the money or the time to take it in so I let it mostly sit unless I absolutely needed the truck.
Today, the idle is still high and does seem to cycle a bit in that it will rev up close to 3000 then settle back down around 2200 or so and then rev back up again and so on. I backed it down the drive into the sun for a little warmth and it darn near jumped a foot when I shifted. I turned the heater on defrost so I could clear the windshield and absolutely nothing came out.
I can't get into a garage for a few days to get it hooked up for diagnostics. So I thought I'd try here. My research leads me to think part of my problem may be a vacuum leak and/or maybe a sensor somewhere.
My 2003 6.0 truck lost most of its power. It has the SCT programmer. It used to run great it would roll coal really well then it slowly started to run worse. Now it runs really sluggish especially when its cold. IT takes forever to warm up. On the freeway when ur going a constant speed it bucks and jerks a lot. It won't roll coal anymore and just runs like crap. A mechanic said I had 3 bad injectors. But I don't believe it.
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