Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 V10 Stutter And Stall Within Less Than 2 Seconds On Cold Start
Oct 28, 2015
My 2001 6.8 L V10 runs great all day & night without issue, but first thing in the morning when below freezing it has a hiccup. It'll fire right up and stutter and stall within less than 2 seconds. Usually twice. Third time it fires and keep running. Is there a fuel check valve somewhere on this thing? Not sure what that would have to do with the temps. Wondering if it's/there's an easy fix or not?
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My 2000 F-250 6.8L V10 has a choppy idle during the first 30 or so seconds after a cold start up in the morning then it smooths out and drives perfectly. If I were to place the truck in gear during the choppy idle, it would not die and throttle response would be fine.
I cleaned the MAF sensor and checked the PCV elbow for cracks (no cracks). It idles at about a 1000 rpm during a cold startup then drops to about 750 rpm according to the dash tachometer. The truck has 187,000 miles on it.
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I have a 01 f350 7.3 turbo dsl. will not start cold. engine turns over fine. plug into block heater over nite , will start! outside temp does not make difference. I have replaced glow plugs, glow plug relay, wiring harness under valve covers. Where to go from here?
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I changed the IAC valve 2 months ago because my truck kept stalling when idling down on a cold start and that fixed the problem. A few days days ago when starting it started revving to 2 - 3 K and won't IDLE down now? I changed the IAC again and that didn't work. What else should I be looking at to stop it from revving so high?
2001 F250 5.4 111,000 miles super duty.
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Cold no start goes nowhere. I have a 2001 7.3 that will not start in the cold if I forget to plug it in....like last night. I have to plug in the block hater and give it a while before it will start. I tested the glow plug relay,it works fine. I can not find a test for the fuel bowl hear, and I'm not one to throw parts until I accidentally fix it. Any test procedure for the fuel bowl heater? Why this POS is so bad in the cold? Glow plugs tested fine at diesel shop in December, and this problem has been around since before that.
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Worked with the 6.0s on my ambulances at my station but this is my first personal diesel. Starting about a week ago my 2006 F350 with 88k started having longer cold cranks, around 10 seconds with some hiccups on the way. I checked the FICM Voltage with a multimeter and on my scan gauge II, it has not gone below 47 volts. I am above the 500psi on the ICP, and around 35% on the IPR Duty cycle. The FICM is also synced. I know this is a big topic with these 6.0s but normally one of these things are an issue, where as mine are in normal range.
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I've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
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1999 F250 SD Ex 4x4 V10 has been intermittently not starting, both cold and warm, began last fall but only happened once a month or so or longer. Would then start after trying again either right away or after waiting a bit. Now it is doing it on a regular basis. Sometimes it will start right away, sometimes won't but if you keep trying or wait awhile it starts, sometimes using the extra key will start it right away after the first one didn't, sometimes neither one. It does not try to turn over, make any noises, no warning lights flashing, just won't start.
Now also on two occasions within the past week, it just stopped while driving. Radio, dash lights, etc., stayed on. I got it to the side of the road with the little power steering left where it started up again right away.
No codes showed up. First mechanic couldn't find anything obvious or replicate problem. Changed air and fuel filters (fuel filter really needed changed), plugs. Got truck back and it wouldn't start next morning. He checked it again and got a code related to ignition, tried the spare key and it started up. Truck back home, next day same problem.
Mechanic 2 checked, no codes, kept several days but, of course, couldn't replicate problem. I'm not even sure what all they checked, used to be an excellent repair place but now they seem to only really on diagnostics and throw up their hands, very disappointing. Replaced solenoid and starter last year myself. Otherwise, have had no problems until this.
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6.2L F250 truck is just shy of 60k runs good however on cold startup there's now a pretty loud ticking noise for a short period (30 seconds) until it warms up then it slowly goes away. Once its warmed up there isn't much of anything.
Did these have exhaust manifold gasket problems like the 5.4? Hoping that's it if not, any other common problems that would make that ticking noise and then go away quickly once the engine is warmed up.
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Turns out I have a loose injector head. The electrical body on top of the injector has separated from the bottom half of the injector. I do not know which injector it is or what side it is on. I know this is what happened because I found the head of the screw in my oil when I changed my oil for good measure and found the nut stuck to the oil plug.
2004.5 F250 SD XLT 4dr 6.0L
CAI, 4" Straight exhaust
EGR Delete, 6.4 Injector pump
Coolant filtration system.
New injectors al around
New ICP, New IPR, New Oil Cooler.
Recently Bulletproofed on ARP head studs, and the stock Head gasket,
New injector harness and FICM from DieselTech Ron
SCT tuner, running innovative diesel tunes. EGT Sensor
37x13.5r18 nitto trail grrappleers
No, I do not have a bad injector [Or I guess I do!!. This explains why it was testing ok. but still acting like a bad injector] , or a bad ICP. The Head is not leaking nor is the potentiometer [TPS] or CPS bad. All of these things have been replaced. Even the injector harness has been replaced. The only thing I have not done is remove the valve cover and making sure all the injectors are tight.
I recently had a contribution error on cylinder 8. Hence the extensive ends I went to above. The new harness and FICM connectors fixed that part of the problem, but apparently the bucking and stalling were not related to that.
No codes are coming up. I'm running an SCT tuner with Innovative Diesel's Extreme Street tune. 4" strait pipe, S&B CAI, 6.4l Injection pump, bulletproofed with ARP head studs, new oil cooler, egr delete, coolant filtration, EGT sensor, SCT tuner, etc etc. Everything but larger injectors. [was coming next]
The truck runs perfect, actually better than perfect after the harness, TPS repair, UNTIL I REACH OVER 60 MPH. At 60+ it starts bucking until i get below 45-50, then I can get back up to speed but no faster than 60. If I let off it real fast while bucking, it stalls.
Fuel PSI issue? The injection PSI isnt affected. Pulse width, normal.
I commute... [At 60 mph lately...] Sounds like I have a loose injector wire under the valve cover.
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I just picked up a 2003 F350 4X4 5.4L it has 130k on it. It drives ok, it doesn't seem to be able to accelerate very quickly and one thing I noticed is when i go into reverse it seems to stutter or feels like it scoots a little bit.
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Ok just bought this truck ran fine. Put a sct tuner on that the truck came with and some how got the egr turned on. It had a egr delete so it was smoking and finally found it out that it had turned on but fixed it. Now we have another problem, it will start up and run fine and about 45 seconds it will start running rough and go into a limp mode. It will run rough and starts to die slowly and when it starts to die there is no throttle at all.
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I normally just troll the existing threads and find what I need, but I am stumped. Just had the HPOP replaced and ran fine for 2 months. Then I started getting a hot no start. So it sat for a couple of days. Then I went to pull it in the shop, it started, I backed up 10 ft and it shut off. I started it back up and it died. I am going to hook it up and figure out my AE software tonight. So question, can an IPR valve get clogged after the fact? Or could it be a bad HPOP?
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I'm having a problem with starting the V10 in my 99 E350 cube van. It refuses to start when cold unless I stick my finger in the idle air control valve and force it shut, or use starting fluid, or a combination of both. Once I do get it started, it will die if I touch the throttle, but once warmed up, it runs fine. I have replaced the IAC, the cylinder head temperature sensor, the fuel filter and fuel pump, and cleaned the MAF. My code reader shows no codes, and like I say once warmed up it will run fine and restart no problem.
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I have a 2011 F250 with the 6.2 gas engine. I have been having a problem that the dealership says there is nothing they can do and have never heard about.
After the truck sits all night I get in and drive it for 10-15 min. It gets warm and I get out turning it off. When I come back about 15-45 min later I start it up and go to leave. As I pull out and start to accelerate in first gear the truck goes to an idle for about 2-3 seconds. I push the gas pedal and get no response. After a couple of seconds it picks up wherever you have the gas pedal. If you have the pedal to the floor it jumps you forward. This is not putting on any lights and the computer is not throwing any codes. According to the dealership the computer is telling them there is nothing wrong.
This has happened 12 times in the past 6 months. It has happened since I bought the truck. I have just started documenting it as of 6 months ago. It is not something I can make it do on command. After it happens once it doesn't seem to do it again for a week or two. I have 31000 miles on the truck. The dealership has had it for 4 days now and can't seem to get it to happen for them.
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Truck: 1999 Ford Truck F 350 4WD Super Duty V8-7.3L DSL Turbo VIN F
Problem: Especially when it is cold outside . . . The truck takes forever to start and while doing so a ton of white/grey smoke comes out of the exhaust.
My starting schema: Turn the key on have the gas pedal pushed to the floor until the "wait to start" light goes out. Then, I turn the key off and back on while still pressing the gas pedal all the way down. When the "wait to start" light goes out again I remove my foot from the pedal and try to start it. I never leave it cranking for more than 5-7 seconds. If, after trying this process several times I will not push the pedal in at all. Also, sometimes I will leave the pedal pushed in while I am cranking it over.
The truck used to start after a couple of tries but lately it won't start at all, even after 20 tries. Sometimes it will spin up for a second as if the engine gets going but then just doesn't continue running. When it is warm out it will usually start after a few tries but doesn't seem normal to me. After I first bought the truck(used) it would start up within half a second after turning the key.This all started after I had to fix an o-ring that was damaged on the top/back of the motor that was dumping all my oil out of the top/back of the motor.
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I think the truck needs a recharge, it's not blowing any cold air. The question is - which port do I use? There's one on the top of the accumulator and another in the line just off the passenger side of the radiator, near the coolant tank.
My only recharge experience was after I replaced a leaking accumulator in my 2007 Crown Vic police interceptor, and this obviously doesn't look quite the same.
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I have a 2002 f250 superduty 5.4 4x4 around 317xxx original motor and trans. When it's cold out it won't start at all I have to use starting fluid but once started it will start right back up. Did the plugs fuel filter cleaned the intake and sensors still have a problem plenty of fuel pressure plenty of cranking amps brand new battery and Alternator. It just cranks and cranks when it's warm out fires right up. Runs smooth no lack of power or misfire no codes are being thrown also.
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Here's what's happening:
I can have it on hot and be driving along, then it will start blowing cold air. I can move the temperature switch to cold then back to hot, and it'll start blowing hot air again.
Need to know if that would be temp or the motor? I don't want to just change parts randomly.
03 F250
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Last week I hauled my camper (2000 Thor Citation @ about 10,000 lbs) to Moosehead Lake. On the trip to and from I experienced a few problems. Tow/haul was engaged all three times. Trucks got just over 90,000 mi.
1) When shifting, the truck would occasionally stutter, like a gas engine when it misfires. Seemed like it would usually happen when transitioning from a slight down hill to an up hill.
2) Once, after a long up hill pull, as it crested the top, the truck slammed into the next gear, hard.
3)Once, going down hill, the trans wouldn't shift into O.D. until I took the rpm's up to 3000 then let off the throttle. No, I did not touch the brake prior to this.
Figure the tranny's gonna need a rebuild soon. What kind of upgraded parts does the wise and all knowing FTE wizards think I should be looking at? I tow the camper a lot during the summer so I want a trans that will hold up to the abuse. I'm probably stuck with this thing for a few more years.
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06 250 5.4 40k on it, usually when cold and accelerating engine will misfire and stutter and then continue accelerating. The wrench light will flash sometimes but it wont store a code. This used to be vague in occurrence but has now started to be more a common occurrence even when up to normal operating temps.It seems only to misfire /stutter on hard acceleration or towing/hauling heavy loads. The only answer I got from a mech would be to do a computer reflash, not sure why /how this would fix whats going on.
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