Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - Steering Lock Rod And Actuator Replacement
Sep 22, 2016
I have a 2001 SD 7.3 Manual, in which either the rod or the actuator has broken. I can tell yet which it is. I can mover the lower actuator back and for but that doesn't tell me which part is broken. I have the parts on order to replace. I have been searching without success to find detailed instructions to make the replacement.
I run a small shop away from my day job but have never dug into one of these. Being the various small parts and sequence of disassembly/Assembly I want to do it correctly the first time. It's very strange how you can go to YouTube and search for everything under the sun with great results, except for this.
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I have a 2001 f350 this morning I went to start the truck the key turn but I heard a click sound all the lights and everything came on but the truck won't start just silence I could turn the key back in the off position and put the key out but the truck is still on radios on it's like the truck is still in the run position or on position there is a lot of play between off and run but like I said the truck will not start, could be not sure if it's the ignition switch or actuator rod..
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Will replacement of the original OEM steering stabilizer with a higher quality stabilizer tighten up my steering wheel play, making is more responsive?
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Today I put a new shifter tube in a 02 f450. Everything works well, but the key won't come out and the steering wheel won't lock. Was told there is a button to push by the turn signal side but don't see any. Looked around top and bottom of column and didn't see anything out of place. Also found a black wire with a pink strip not connected to anything. Touched the wire to the column and key dinger sounded. Where should this wire be connected?
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Steering problem... 2005 F250; Four Wheel Drive; Automatic; 93,000 miles; gas engine. The basic description that I have been giving people is that the steering will "stick" or "lock up" to the point that I have to use some force to get the steering wheel past the stuck point, when it releases, it's a " jerk, " THEN it sticks the other direction and I have to force the steering wheel back the other way again. So, in other words, when the truck decides to do this, in order to drive a straight line I am literally turning the wheel back and forth, probably only an eighth of a turn each way, but back and forth. If it's bad enough, I have to pull the truck over.
If I pull over, sit and turn the wheel back and forth a few times, loosening it up (when I'm stopped, I can't say that I really feel it stick at all), I can pull back on the road and be fine. A lot of the time, it happens right after I've turned a wide corner (not specifically right or left. It does it both ways), say taking a corner at an intersection as a yield or turning through a wide intersection onto say, an entrance ramp to the highway. I would say in a lot of cases, even when the truck doesn't have "an episode," I can still feel a stiff spot when I'm driving down the road/highway. This is not a vibration-type problem.
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My 2004 f250 ball and u joint replacement job is at a bit of a stand still. Tore it down, brought the knuckle and axle shafts to an ex mechanic I know, because he has a 20 ton Harbor freight shop press. He mostly used a hammer, bashed out the old ball joints (I already had removed the u joints). U joint turned out fine.
I did notice the upper ball joint protruded a very slight bit on one side in the knuckle, meaning you could feel with your finger on the underside of the joint and on the one side it is not exactly flush with the interior of the knuckle. I would say it protrudes no more than a thirty second or so.
I brought it home, installed the boots on the moog joints, (the bottom was unusually difficult to put on), greased the joints and hung the knuckle on the axle tube, by a few turns on the lower joints nut. I then inserted the camber sleeve on the top stud, torqued the bottom to 49 fp then the top to 67 and finally the bottom to 150. End result, very stiff movement on the knuckle. No tie rod attached, and it takes to hands to move it from the "stopped" position,(turned all the way). I am sure it is stiffer than when I did the other side.
I tried loosening the nuts completely, same stiffness. I redid the torque sequence, no change. Tried hammering the ears around where the joints seat no improvement. The fellow who installed into the knuckle came and took a look. He agreed the knuckle was stiffer than you would hope, but, he suggested Putting it all together, as he believed they would loosen up before too long. I am not sure whether to try that, or remove the knuckle now, and redo with new joints. Pros and cons to either approach.
My question is : Does a knuckle become more sketchy by the time it is dealing with the pressing of a third set of ball joints? If I finish the install now, will a stiff knuckle action lead to other mechanical wear within a thousand miles or so, while I wait to see if they loosen up?
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I have an 03 F-250 4 wheel drive with the 6.0. For the last 3 months or so I have been having some issues with the steering system and I am not quite sure what it could be or what too look for. I have already replaced the power steering pump due to the shaft seal leak on my old one. After that I noticed that the truck would never really center the steering up on its own like it used to and that it pulled in either direction depending on which way you steered it. I then decided that I would replace the steering box on the truck. I replaced it with a Napa one. Right after that I had it on the alignment rack and the guy said it was not even out of alignment. As I continued to drive the truck it continued to pull in either direction whenever you took a hard turn in either direction. Then one night coming home from work, I was pushing it a little hard, the truck pulled itself across the center line. The steering wheel and all turned to the left. It did this 5 or so times in a row. I am also noticing some issues with my lock outs but don't know if it is tied to the same issue with the steering.
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I found one thread in FTE regarding replacing instrument cluster bulbs but the solution was to contact Circuit Board Medics. I have one dark area on the right side of the tach and another dark area on the left side of the speedo. Probably the same bulb that's out. Also, can attempt to replace the bulbs (assuming its a bulb and not a fiber optic of some sort) in the steering wheel volume and fan controls?
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Replacing the evaporator? I am just curious how big of a job it is. I have the a/c equipment to service the system. Its on my 01 f-250 with a 7.3.
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2001 F-250 7.3. The auto lock hubs are not working on the truck lock hubs in and all works fine. First thought is the vacuum system has a leak or something of the sort. Had truck at the shop they are telling me the GEM module controls the vacuum to engage the auto hubs and the signal is not coming from the GEM and it need to be replaced. It was the GEM causing the problem.
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So my 2000 F250 has 182k and I am not sure when plugs were changed. Its got the 5.4. My 2001 Excursion has 102k on the v10 and I've read a few threads about blowing plugs and now I am scared out of my mind. Do I need to worry about breaking them or stripping anything?
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I have a friend with an 01 f250 super duty who needs to replace sway bar bushings.
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I recently replaced my heater core on 2001 F250. Would be a simple job if it weren't for the quick connects on the hoses. Any tool to take these apart on the truck where space is limited?
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So about a month or so ago i had my alternator replaced because my truck wouldnt start and had it checked and replaced well tonite it started rough dont know what to think what/where should i check first?
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I bought this truck used and the guy said it needed a new blend door actuator so I bought a new one off eBay I installed it, plugged the wire back in and turned on the key and it started smoking, it burned up. The wires have been cut before and have been butt connected back together. I notified the place I bought it from and they sent me back a new one but I'm scared it will do it again.
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I am working on my Dads 01 super duty with a 5.4, automatic, and the pinion bearing has seized up due to a lack of fluid from a rusted out rear diff cover. The tag on the diff cover had a 10.5 stamped on it and has 12 bolts. Is this known as a ford 10.5"
I have changed gears and pinion bearings in a Dana 70 before is this the same process? What are part numbers for a new pinion bearing and seal? Gears are in fine shape.
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A few years ago I (for him) replaced all 4 calipers, rotors, pads, etc....things were good. Just recently he replaced his Brake Booster and Master Cylinder (not sure what led to this), but long story short everything is back together and he doesn't have brakes.
My GUESS is that the system needs a good flush, new fluid, etc....
My problem is I'm unsure how to bleed the ABS system. A few google searched indicate I need a scan tool, but is there another way? Can I jump something.
So my question, how do I completely bleed the brake system on this truck?
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I sold my truck couple years ago and just bought a 2001 f250 SD crew cab with the 5.4 110000 miles on it. when I got it the ball joints were completely shot on it so I replaced them. I done this before I ever drove the truck. it drove all over the road and was fighting the steering wheel to keep the thing up in the road.a couple weeks later my steering box was leaking, so I put a brand new one on there. no change in the steering.
I changed all 4 tires with used ones off my sons truck he took off when he bought new ones and still no change. ordered and put new drag link and tie rod ends and everything I could change on the steering and still drives the same way. my steering wheel is straight but seems like you turn a little one way to drive it straight and a lot the other way especially notice it going around curves.
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I have a 01 f250, owned it for about 8 months now. Have done a ton of work to it, replacing all worn out parts. It's a v10, replaced so far is ball joints, all tie rods, steering dampener, front sway bar links and bushings and Monroe gas Magnum shocks all around. My biggest problem is the wandering in steering. I put a 2.5" add leaf spring pack to front when I first bought it. It has stock bullet whole wheels and new Firestone's destination a/ts. Also. Tires have been rebalanced and are smooth until I get to 60+mph, its a swirling ride after 60mph. Could I have bad wheel hubs or do I have an alignment issue? Planning to replace hubs with Napa hubs since I did everything else and I'm sure there bad with 236k miles on truck.
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My 2001 F250 2WD does not have the steering damper that my 2004 F250 2WD has. Is that normal or is my 2001 missing it?
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Every time I try turning at idle or with foot on brake it wont turn at all. Is this just a super duty thing or vacuum leak or power steering pump going?
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