2001 PSD ... Had speedometer jump 20 km's (12mph) while stopped with foot on the brake? This has been happening on my 2001 PSD intermittently for the last couple months.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 F250, 5.4, 4X4. My ignition key stuck in the start position and when I pulled it back to the run position, everything seemed ok. As I started down the road, my speedometer stopped working and my overdrive light was flashing. Also my turn signals had stopped working and my A/C clutch didn't engage. Figured I burnt a fuse. I looked in both the under dash and power distribution box and all seemed well. I checked the fuse for the turn signals/flasher and it was fine. The flashers worked. Thought I might have fried something so I replaced the ignition lock and switch. Also my service engine light came on throwing a code for the vehicle speed sensor.
Looking for solutions on this forum and the internet, I learned that the turn signal switch could have gone bad and the VSS sensor is on the top of the rear dif and an easy fix. Well replaced the sensor but nothing changed. So I went back to the fuse box. Examined every fuse, big and small and I found a 10a with a small space. This was #24 under the dash. From the manual, "#24, 10A, A/C clutch, Blend Door Actuator, Trailer Tow Battery Charge Relay Coil, Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS), Turn Signal." Replaced it and everything went back to normal. Turn signals work, A/C clutch works, no flashing overdrive light and speedometer works. All from a 10A fuse. If you have any of these symptoms examine all the fuses carefully. There's a 20A fuse for turn/hazard lamps and this other one buried that's only 10A.
I have a 1999 f250 7.3 ... l extended cab 4x4 super duty ... ABS light on, over drive light flashing and speedometer has stopped working .. I have replaced abs senor on the rear of transmission and on the rear end.both new and just replaced abs module just the computer not the pump that was used . And abs light, overdrive light are still on and the speedometer is still not working ..
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 F350 4x4 with 7.3L diesel and a manual transmission. While driving home yesterday my gauges (fuel, temp, volts, oil pres) stopped working. Within a couple min the speedometer and the tach also stopped working, but the truck was still running fine. Within a couple miles the engine stopped running, just like I had turned the engine off.
After having it towed home I checked all the fuses, none are blown, but there is no power to fuse #16 (15A, instrument cluster, high beam head lamp). Also in the fuse box under the hood, again, no fuses are blown, but fuse #9 (left head lamp low beam) and #11 (right head lamp low beam) have no power to them.
I have a 01 Ford excursion 7.3 auto and it will not start unless you jump the starter relay, I have replaced the starter, starter relay and swapped out batteries from my 2000 F250 auto, not sure what to do and this is my daily driver. Not sure if this matters but just had the transmission rebuilt. I have tried searching other threads but still not finding what I need. Once it starts it runs and drives. When you turn the key you hear a click like a relay is engaging and all of the lights and gauges work it just won't start with the key.
View 2 RepliesTruck was dead- 2001 F250 V10... Has a starter relay (solinoid) behind battery... put a new relay in there- no go- cleaner terminals... then I put key in start and shorted the 2 terminals in the relay and she cranked right up. That would mean the starter is still good correct?? something in the ignition system?
View 1 RepliesI'm sure this is a common issue, but I don't know exactly what to search for. I have a 2001 F250 7.3L. When I stop my truck, with my foot on the brake, the steering absolutely doesn't work. I replaced the PS pump, which it needed, plus all the hoses and it got better, but the no steer problem while braking is still there. I have seen that an upgrade in pressure hoses may work?
View 1 Repliesmy speedo doesn't work but, all the other gages do. I just replaced the front hubs, abs sensors, ball joints etc... I put a new sensor in the rear end this morning and still nothing isthere a fuse tied to this somewhere? am I missing something? it's a 5.4l with a 4r100
View 8 Replies2001 F250 SD, V10, Auto, 155K miles
While driving home from work I noticed the needle jump from around 55 to 70 on the display, then settle back in at 55 ish. First I just caught it out of the corner of my eye, but watched more closely, and it did it again as I drove. The tow/haul override button on the shifter was blinking also, (as if it was "Mad" about something)..
Then I noticed that the jump of the Speedometer needle was linked to when I changed from High to Low on the headlights, and vise-versaI was NOT in cruise mode The voltmeter did not EVER waver. (I thought that the increased current might be causing a temporary problem of sorts). Where to start looking?
I have a 1999 Super Duty 5.4l Manual transmission 4x4 105,000 miles the cruise control stopped working a month ago, I didn't think much of it because I frankly don't use cruise as this vehicle is usually used to tow and I don't run cruise towing.
Long story short I went to tow my camp trailer and noticed my brake controller was not actuating the trailer brakes when I braked, the controller is showing connected and when I manually actuate the controller its working, so I knew I had a brake light issue, I checked the brakes and sure enough I have no functioning brake lights.
I bought a Motorcraft OEM brake pedal switch and replaced it to no avail,I have also checked the applicable fuses they are fine. I have a master cylinder cruise control switch to change but have my doubts this is the issue since the brake lights and cruise are non functional.
2001 F250 SD 7.3 PSD Was doing a trailer towing road trip too and from Montana. On the way back the cruise control stopped working. Checked fuse #28. Looked fine. Attempted to do a self test on the cruise control. Holding the OFF button did nothing. Never went into diagnostic mode. Button ? A different fuse?
View 14 RepliesI have a 01 F550 Super Duty with a dynamic wheel lift system. One of my drivers was driving the truck when it just stopped running. I can't figure out what's happened. I think I have checked everything and yet it just turns over but won't start...
View 1 RepliesThe switch for turning overdrive off that's located on the auto trans shifter stopped working. I've taken off the column cover to see if the wires have been severed from the tilt wheel, but nothing wrong there. I also checked the fuses, and all is well. Is it possible that the switch is bad at the end of the shifter, or somewhere farther down the column?
View 14 RepliesMy drivers window will not work at all but when I push the button I get a clicking in the fuse box. The other 3 windows partially work but will only go up or down in small increments. I have tried holding the button and slamming the door and this allows the other 3 windows to work. I thought it was the switch so I replaced it and that was not the problem. Fuse and relay seem to be fine. If it was just the driver window I would think it was the lift motor but with the other 3 windows on the fritz I have no clue.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 f350 v-10 drove it yesterday to get fuel, went to start it after fueling. No start, no lights dash was gauges were acting odd, and clicking under dash from behind fuse box. did get it to start after a while, put my foot on brake to go into drive, never made it ... truck died I do have remote start system thought it was that with the brake pedal issue. disconnected complete system. no change
Had it towed, home now no nothing, connect battery and just clicking from under dash no start ? not battery, wont even jump
What torque value is in foot pounds that Ford recommends for the 10mm bolts that attach the overload spring bumper brackets to the frame on a 2014 F250?
View 5 RepliesI was getting ready to run a fused wire from the battery to the rear of the truck to power my bed lights. Then I read where some owners have jumped the trailer charge relay socket to provide constant 12v at the 7-pin trailer plug.
I never keep my trailer cord connected to the truck when camping so the chances of the trailer draining the battery are nil.I don't want powering the bed lights from other sources as I have decided I want 12v to bed light switch always available.
Looking to swap out my center console for a center jump seat in my 2014 F350 xlt. Mines has gray cloth interior. Can this be done? Need to swap their seat for a console?
View 5 RepliesI am a few DAYS into a project changing my ball joints on my 2001 F250SD 4wd.
Latest issue is I can't get the brakes back on. One of the pistons was pressed out making replacing the calipers onto the rotor impossible. Fiddling with things has only made it worse.
The higher piston is stuck extended, and the other piston doesn't even budge.
The truck is our only vehicle, and I have been working on it since Tuesday night. It looked like it was going to be done today, but I can't put it all back together now.
That piston will not move. I've tried opening the bleeder and taking a clamp to it but all I get it a few more drops of fluid, no visible movement.
A while ago it looked like this. I got it to move in a little, but it is firmly stuck.
I'm wondering if I can pull it all the way out and clean/sand polish it. Can I use a quick-clamp on the rubber section of brake line to isolate the calipers so I can pull the piston out without draining all the brake fluid from higher in the system? And what do I do about the other piston that doesn't seem to be moving at all? Grab with big pliers and twist/pull?
Some of us just have a knack for finding layer upon layer of problems on projects...
I have a 2001 F250 7.3 with 175K.
Here is the situation. There is a disturbing clunk when I take my foot off the accelerator and a corresponding clunk when I push back down on the accelerator. This only occurs when the vehicle is not under load. That is, it does not happen when going up hill or on any sort of an incline. It does not happen when the automatic transmission shifts. It does not happen shifting into reverse or drive.
It does not happen when starting or stopping. It only happens when I am at 40-60, or so, miles an hour and let off the accelerator and/or press the accelerator again. It appears that I can carefully feather the accelerator to eliminate or, at least, minimize the clunk. I have crawled under the truck and it looks like all the U-joints are tight, I have lubricated the slip-yoke (although when twisted there is, like a mm of play when this is twisted, not much but a very little).
The rear-differential pinion appears to be tight (no side-to-side play or up-and-down play, or at least I can't make it move with my hands). However, when the truck is in neutral the entire driveshaft is able to rotate a half inch, or so, all the way up and down the drive train. That is, the transfer case and the rear differential appear to have a little rotational play in them, but I am guessing this is pretty normal. When in park the entire driveline seems solid.
I have seen from some of the other posts that this sort of clunking can come from leaf springs, hangers and such but since this clunk seems so isolated to acceleration changes when the vehicle is not under load, I doesn't seem like this would be the issue. No clunk when shifting, turning, bumps etc. Everything seems perfect until I am on a gentle downhill or flat and let off the accelerator. Doesn't appear to clunk when going down a steeper decline. All this gets me to thinking that the clunk is caused whenever the driveshaft rotation gets ahead of or behind the rotation in the rear differential.
2004, 6.0, 96,000. I noticed a occasional clunking under the passenger foot area. The exhaust pipe is loose at the turbo connection on top the engine. It is swinging L & R & hitting the spring hanger & transmission cross member. Is there a rolled pin, dimple or other alignment device at the flange at the turbo???
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