Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - Shutter At Start Up - While Shifting Feels Like In Neutral?
Jun 25, 2015
I bought a 2001 7.3L deisil F250 CC short box a year ago. It has an AFE cold air, a 4inch exhaust and an Edge chip in it, Now the tranny was rebuilt a year before I bought it, however I almost instantly noticed a shutter when starting from a stop. One shop said u joints. I replaced them and the carrier with no results. IMHO u joints was a bad diagnosis as it only happens off the line and not through at a certain rpm. When down shifting I find the truck almost goes into to neutral before engaging 2nd gear. I have a 6.0l tranny cooler and my temps get to 215 and above quite easily when towing... 3-6k-lbs. (I try to pull over before that) Also when towing up hills the tranny almost feels like there's a slight grinding. For the first little bit anyway.
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I have a 2014 f250 with the 6.2 and just turned 13,800 miles. I tend to drive in tow haul a lot, while not towing because I like the shift pattern better and saves on brakes while stopping. Last night I slowed to a stop sign, came to complete stop. Went to take off slowly like always and the truck was like in neutral, looked down and the indicator showed 5th gear. Let off and watched it go to 1st and took off no problem. This all took only half a second or so, seemed fine after that. What might of happened?
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Bought truck drove it 240 miles on interstate 80 mph no problems---2001 F350 4x4 auto. Next morning backed out drive and trans fluid trail 6 inches wide. Didn't leak in forward gears (at that time) added fluid and drive to town shifted fine.
Next day gonna drive 150 miles to check out leak. (Son was driving it) said it wouldn't go over 40 mph. Revving high. Hauled truck here on trailer and pulled tranny. Rear housing cracked just before 4x4 adapter. (This trans was rebuilt 10k miles ago) ..
Got used 4R100 from friend who replaced only because he built one for his truck. It was shifting fine etc when pulled 6 months ago. Used cracked trans TC and installed. Test drive no 4th or OD. Pulled trans put TC that came with trans in. Still no OD. Put on scanner while driving. Trans is being commanded to shift to OD but not up shifting. 45mph at 2400rpm.
Pulled plug to solenoid pack inside trans ( this should make trans default to OD / limp mode) still no OD and won't go over 45.
Pulled OD button checked wires inside steering column. All looks great. Not even a heavy rub mark.
Should I replace the coil pack in trans? Where do I go from here? Again this trans was known to be good when pulled 6 months ago.
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Having trouble with a shutter upon take off in there drive train. It only happens when I am going straight. It does not do it when I am turning or anything. I just bought the truck used sat. It has around 18000 miles on it. I haven't had a chance to put a load on it yet to see if it does it then.
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I just bought a 99 f250 2wd with 290k on it and my only issues are brake shutter and steering play.
The steering has about an inch to two dead space at center while driving. The truck tracks straight and doesn't wander at all. I was wanting input on what i should look at first to fix the dead space in the wheel. Its a little iffy having to steer through dead area to get steering output.
I just need something good so I can do it once and not have warped rotors again.
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As the title states I just finished putting pads and rotors on the front of my 04' f250. I have had a terrible shutter almost a bouncing effect while braking over the last week or so, finally got around to doing the work and still no satisfaction! My question is where to go next? Wheel bearings and tires are good, I do get a pretty good wobble/vibration in the pedal while braking. Should I be looking at a brake booster or master cylinder? Or is it possible it's a caliper? Truck goes down the road fine until and brake is applied.
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My buddy's 2001 7.3L F350 has had 3 transmissions. Rebuilt and used. Once the new trans is in he goes like 15 miles and then is starts shifting hard and grinding gears. What this could be?
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The truck is in my Sig 01 F250 5.4
Just got back from a long trip with it. Parked it for 3 days, all was running fine. Went to dinner Sat night and all was great, left the restaurant and as soon as I started the engine I noticed a slight vibration. As soon as I hit 42 miles per hour, it started shaking pretty good. I pulled over and checked under the truck to make sure I did not have anything I was not supposed to hanging down.
Driveshaft looked good, nothing leaking from rear end or tranny. When it does vibrate, the Tach shows the unhappiness as well. This a.m. driving to work it was vibrating at all speeds and shifting was very rough, had a hard time deciding if it wanted to be in second or third gear. I don't think this is drive train issue... When it shutters and sputters at 40ish MPH, its almost like it loses power and I have to let off the gas. and then under power it shakes badly.
I had the super chip settings for performance tow when this started and then I changed it back to stock settings, thinking it might work, which it only got worse. Changing the settings with the Superchip you have to disable the fuel system and I do this by pulling the fuel pump fuse under the hood in the power distro box.
I think the ujoints are still good, the oil and tranny fluid are spot on. Hubs are locked but in 2WD. Had all the front end replaced 15K miles ago. Brand new tires and wheels in Sept, front end alignment done at same time, front brakes were 90% and rear brakes at 20%.
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First off I want to say my truck isnt throwing any codes, nor am I loosing any pressure on the brake peddle. What is going on is my brakes are working just fine I can stop from any speed and my brakes are performing just fine until I slow to about 5mph.
From 5mph to 0mph it almost feels like I slide on ice for a second, and you hear a sound almost like what you hear when your ABS kicks in. I will feel a slight fluctuation in the brake peddle and then my truck comes to a stop. It is the darnest thing. One mechanic I spoke to said he thought is was the vacuum system, another thought it may be the brake sensors....
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2001 f350 w/v10, 6.8. the fender mounted starter solenoid went out so I replaced it, while doing so I also replaced the battery (previous owner had a marine/rv battery installed, I purchased the truck a couple months ago). after replacement the truck still will not start. when attempting to start it barely if at all cranks, long story short I was going to have the starter tested but in the course of removing it the terminal posts broke off so I ended up replacing it too. The truck still would not start or really crank so I dug down with the expectation of finding a bad ground someplace. cleaned up the ground points. Now I have the battery on a charger awaiting it to finish recharging. Something that is likely/remotely likely to be causing the engine not to crank over and start that I have missed?
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My '01 f250 7.3 has gotten hard to start. It seems to maybe be due to cooler weather, but not always. I have been told that there is some sort of valve in the fuel tank that could possibly cause this when the fuel gets around a 1/4 tank or so. But, it's doing it at any fuel level. But it doesn't do it all the time. I do notice it more in cooler weather. Anyway, when I try to crank it, I'll let the "wait to start" light go off and then wait a bit more. I'll turn it over and it almost as if the batteries are weak.
I'll stop and give it a few seconds and turn it again and it will normally start. But sometimes I'll do this 5 or 6 times and it will finally fire. But the more I have to try, it's like fuel builds in the cylinders and it smoke like a coal train for a minute or so. Almost like gas motor that has been flooded. But the smoke burns off and it runs like a top. I was thinking the batteries may be weak , but sometimes the starter will spin the motor with no trouble at all. I'm at a loss. Is it possible for fuel to drain from the system causing it to have to reprime itself? Here lately the smoking has me concerned even though it clears up.
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I bought a 2001 F250 V10. When I first started it cold at the dealer that I bought it from, it cranked for a couple seconds and didn't start. I cranked it again and it caught and started right up. I figured it probably had to do with the truck sitting for a while with no one looking at it.
The next week of driving it, I never had any issues with it not starting on the first try.
1,900 miles later, it's sitting in my driveway in Minneapolis. It's Thursday and I haven't driven it since Sunday. I go out to start it, it cranks and catches, then immediately dies. Subsequent tries to start only result in cranking with no hint of catching. I've given it a few minutes to cool off between attempts and still nothing.
It's 24 degrees out. I'm not sure what weight oil is in the motor. It's got a full tank of fresh gas that was purchased here in Minneapolis. The battery is strong, as it's cranking really fast.
I've just come over from a 93 F250 Diesel, where I might expect problems starting at this temperature, but issues from a gas engine surprise me. What this might be? I bought this truck to be more reliable than my 93 that had 276k miles on it. This one is only a baby with 80k miles.
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I have a 01 f350 7.3 turbo dsl. will not start cold. engine turns over fine. plug into block heater over nite , will start! outside temp does not make difference. I have replaced glow plugs, glow plug relay, wiring harness under valve covers. Where to go from here?
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It has a 7.3 bone stock in it. When it is cranking you can hear a relay clicking. it's behind the dash just below the radio. There are 3 relays together 1 big one which is for trailer lights and 2 small ones which i don't know where they go. but i replaced all 3 and i still hear the clicking ONLY when the engine is cranking.
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i have a 01 Ford F-350 7.3L quite and won't start I have replaced the ipr valve and sensor and the crank sensor and the truck still won't start...
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How do I remove the neutral safety switch? I bought a replacement and am having trouble removing it.
After shifting into neutral, I disconnected the connector, then unbolted the two screws. Now I can't get the little white ring that connects the lever coming from the transmission to the actual switch. I have tried prying it off with a screwdriver, spraying a little PB Blaster to lubricate it a little. Nothing will get it off it seems.
I'm leaving to go back up to school tomorrow afternoon, and I need to have this fixed before I leave.
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I have a 2001 ford f350 v10 dually. about 2 months ago it blew a plug out and i had it fixed and shortly after it developed a starting issue. It starts fine for a day or so then after it sits for a day it wont start without out cycling the key 5 to 10 times....It cranks fine just wont try to start or even sputter....took to a shop that replaced my jem Module and he had it for a week and only one time did it not start. I drive it home and it sits overnight and wont start the next day. took it back and he couldn't find out what is going on.
Its has started and ran just fine no issues once its running but shut it off for a couple hours you got a chance it wont start. I've eventually got it to start every time so far. The shop said my fuel pressure was 40 psi but would go down after it sat to about 10 to 20. The one time it did not start for the shop they said it had no fuel pressure but then he just cycled the ignition a few time and it started. What to check that would be normal like the fuel pump or relays and fuses. I should say early this year around jan feb it had the starting issue once and thought it was due to a autostart that was installed before I bought it and so got it going and just removed autostart when started having trouble with starting.
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My 2001 F250 will not start (clicks). I verified its not the battery and even tried to jump start it. I have never replaced a starter- but before I do that I read where there is another solenoid under the hood somewhere. I always thought there was just the one on the starter itself.
Two questions:
1. where is that other solenoid located and should I replace that first?
2. How difficult is it to replace the starter? I am pretty handy.
The issue is that I cannot get it towed easily - I just need to get it started at least once since my plow is still installed and it's hooked up to a trailer..
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I was driving on the highway last night when it was like somebody dropped my transmission into neutral. I was cruising at 50mph slight hill. There was no noise or any thing. Now I have nothing.
It's a 2005 f350 4x4 automatic
I can only assume I'll be needing a new transmission but I am hopeful of a small problem...
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I have a 99 f350 V10 gas dually dumper. Today while driving I stopped at a stop sign. When I went to continue the transmission seemed to be in neutral, then it caught and I drove through the intersection. It 2-3 seconds later disengaged again. I pulled over. When I attempted to put it in park it grinded. (Bad enough I just turned off the key). I checked the fluid. It was close to full and red. While in park I restarted. Truck started fine. I shifted into drive and nothing. It was like it was in neutral still. I attempted to put in park again and more grinding. Also while in park it does not hold the truck from rolling. After getting towed home I checked the tranny fluid again and it was still looking ok. I drained the transfer case also. The fluid in there was near black an appeared to have a metallic look. Does this problem seem to be just my tc or tranny issues also?
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My 05 f250 v10 runs rough at points and sometimes quits when driving. I find it too that I can't rev it in park or neutral and sometimes when it is cold I can. I was wondering if it was a tps or something with the intake...
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