Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - Rust On Bed Side?
Jul 4, 2016
My truck, 2001 F250 SuperCab 4x4 should be delivered any day from the Pacific Northwest. It has Zero rust on it and I want to keep it that way. Unfortunately here in Kansas City, Missouri most of the trucks of this vintage I see have rust around the back wheels on the bed. What steps, if any, can I take to prevent rust on my new truck? I'm pretty OCD about cleaning my vehicles (or anything for that matter, lol) so washing the wheel wells is a no-brainer.
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I didn't get the windshield replaced rusted the whole way across the top of the window. Now to fix it right need a new roof panel. This truck barely see snow if it does it gets washed underneath. gets waxed 5 times a year washed every 2 weeks if not sooner now a spot of rust anywhere else on the body. well the bottom of the tail gate but that was covered by a bedrug. But the windshield has me upset to say the least. Really would like to know if there is a problem there like ford not prepping the metal right since it was a new body style for that year.
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once a year i remove all my seats (yes i unbolt front and rear seats and vacuum real good) and when i lifted the rear bench seat back from the rear wall i noticed THIS to some it might not seem like a big deal but to me this is a HUGE problem, i know my trucks a 2004 but whats gonna happen another ten years from now and longer down the road if i don't stop this now? Im gonna have to be buying or making a repair panel for the rear cab thats what! I plan on keeping my truck forever and buy a new truck down the road so i want this one to last, only thing i can think of is the rear sliding window rubber seal is leaking and letting the water get between the two body panels? From outside where the cab corner meets the center body panel piece none of the factory body sealer is missing or cracked so it has to be the rear slider seal?
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My 02 F-250 (week end truck) has begun to start showing a lot more surface rust on frame and axles. It's about half rust and half black frame. Are there any products that I can spray or brush on that will convert and stop this. ?
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I own an '03 F250 and have had it since new. I love the truck, keep it in good condition, and plan on keeping it for at least a few more years. For some time now I've had the classic small spots on one rear fender well. The spots are getting a little bigger and look like they're going to come through soon. I'm not a big fan of fender flares, but from what I understand, that's the easiest way to fix the problem, cut the rust out/seal it, install fender flares. Is there any other way to fix the rust without repainting the whole bed? I don't like fender flares because I think they look a little weird with stock tires and also because it's only one fender that is rusting, but I'd have to install them on all four. If fender flares are the only way to go, any that are small and low profile?
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What is the thread size/length of the 20 transmission pan bolts on the 4R100? I am replacing the pan since the rust has finally started weeping ATF, and the bolts need to be replaced as well, they have turned into little rusty nubs. So i want to use stainless ones. I could pull one and go to the hardware store, but what is the size i can stop on the way home.
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It appears it is mostly surface rust and am looking for something relatively simple to fix it. I would prefer to use something in aerosol cans since it is small amount of total area, maybe Rustoleum products?
I will attempt to remove as much of the rust as possible with circular wire brush on drill but feel there will still be little crevices that I won't be able to fully clean.
I'm also interested in knowing what I should use to harden the surface to prevent the excessive chipping of paint in this area.
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Problem is two fold. First......my grill "Ford" emblem is chipping and fading. Second....there is rust along the inside edge of the tailgate near the weep holes. I have been told the rust must perforate the area in order for it to be covered by warranty. Truck is pretty close to pristine condition and two service reps said rust is coming from the inside of the tailgate. Doesn't make sense to me to wait for the rust to get really nasty before it being covered by warranty. I bet a new tailgate cost more than that!!!! Hey whats the deal with the eroding "Ford" emblem??? Looks like the coating is flaking off and letting the blue paint fade away. I don't think this is normal but that too doesn't seem to be covered by warranty !! Maybe I should think twice about my next vehicle !!!!! Comments ??????
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Seems like my 2001 f350 7.3 has an ac freon leak on pass side near compressor. AC is blowing coolish air but not cold like is should be. There is green like oil around main line leading out of ac compressor. I have attached several pics to illustrate situation.
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The driver side wiper shaft on our '01 F350 is slipping/ stripped and we cant find anything online about this. Does the whole shebang need replacing? Is there an easy fix?
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Here's the deal. I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and I am getting a noise in the front drivers side wheel. The noise is not a grind or clunk, but its like a u-joint is rubbing inside an empty cylinder kind of. Anyways, it seems like it does it only with small bumps. I took off my oem hubs and re-installed them and the noise went away for about a week. Now I replaced them with manual locking hubs and the noise is back. One other thing I notice is if i put the switch to 4x4 the noise goes away. I checked all major components for the steering and suspension and nothing was loose. The front end is tight. Is there anything inside the axle that would cause this? I dont know what to check for anymore. Where else to check?
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So...I'm dealing with a leaking passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2001 F250 SD. (Extended cab, long bed, 5.4 XLT.) Been slowly making progress on getting the manifold bolts off (the ones that weren't broken already at least.) Got all the top row off and the flange free yesterday, today was on to the bottom row.
I undid the 2 bolts on the PS motor mount studs and carefully jacked up the motor to lift that side a bit. I couldn't figure out anywhere else so I put a piece of 2x4 under the oil pan and used that point to lift up with the truck's bottle jack.
Worked well enough, but when I decided to call it a night I lowered it back down. Looking at one of the studs that I could watch as I moved it, the mount came to rest about an inch and a half away from where it started. (Higher up on the slant.)
How much does this matter? If the position is critical, how can I go about getting it back to the starting point?
I have a feeling the fact that I'm working in my uneven, unloved driveway had a lot to do with this. The passenger side is raised slightly and on a jack stand. Just enough to get the wheel on and off for access through the well.
On a positive note, I only have one more bolt to remove to free the manifold, the one right above the mount. I couldn't get anywhere with my nut extractors so I finally started grinding away at the nut with my Dremel. Should be able to get the old manifold off tomorrow and start working to get the studs out.
My Irwin Bolt Grips worked a treat combined with a MAP Pro torch on the others, but not so much on the hardest to reach one. Go figure. For starters there just isn't enough room to get a good solid hammer blow on it to seat it, and to make things way more complicated for some reason that particular location had more exposed stud length, so I couldn't get it all the way on to the nut and still get a ratchet wrench into the other end too.
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My drivers window will not work at all but when I push the button I get a clicking in the fuse box. The other 3 windows partially work but will only go up or down in small increments. I have tried holding the button and slamming the door and this allows the other 3 windows to work. I thought it was the switch so I replaced it and that was not the problem. Fuse and relay seem to be fine. If it was just the driver window I would think it was the lift motor but with the other 3 windows on the fritz I have no clue.
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I have a '01 F250 with a frozen u-joint in the driver side front axle. My question is can I put it together without the axle and drive it?
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2001 f350 4x4 dually 7.3 powerstroke, I recently replaced the hub assembly, stub shaft and seal, u joint, ball joints on the front drivers side and now periodically the truck makes a grinding growling vibration coming from front drivers side and stops after hitting a bump...
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2014 Super Duty F350 CC SWB 4x4 20" rims FX4 Gas. Did some measurements today and it turns out the right rear is 1 inch higher than the left rear. The right front is 1/2 inch higher than the left front. Is this normal?
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I have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
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I have 2004 Ford, thought it needed injectors because it was struggling hard almost a side to side movement. Had a friend recommend replacing the FICM, did that now it stumbles, less often, less movement like it's muted. I noticed it again yesterday after hard breaking, but also really likes to do it in heavy traffic.
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On the F250 trucks, if I changed the mounting frame under the seat, will the passenger side seat fit on the drivers side? Basically, can I turn a passenger seat into a drivers seat?
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I have 1999 7.3, stock. I am getting oil to injectors on passenger side but none on drivers side.
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My F-350 is only blowing hot air out of the passenger side vents, and not the drivers side. Could it be a vacuum leak or a an electrical issue? How could you troubleshoot this to find out what the problem is?
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