Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - Replaced Hub Bearing / Noise From Suspension Area?
Oct 26, 2014
I have a 2001 f250 v-10 4wd with 117,000 miles. I just replaced drivers side front hub bearing assy and not sure if it's the new bearing or what but now I keep hearing this crazy noise from suspension area. It has had bangs and pops for a while now. It almost sounds like abs motor going off but louder. Does it going slow fast or whatever. Brakes on or off. Trucks ball joints were done about two months ago and new shocks, trac bar replaced this summer only thing not done was tie rod ends and all bushings. Brakes are good new rotors and pads this summer also. It's like taking two inflated balloons and rub them together real fast. It may be the timken bearing maybe bad from get go.
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I have a really loud whining kind of noise found that its the wheel seal rubbing on the inner part of the wheel bearing. I was just curious if its safe to drive with the spindle removed from the axle?
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I am working on my Dads 01 super duty with a 5.4, automatic, and the pinion bearing has seized up due to a lack of fluid from a rusted out rear diff cover. The tag on the diff cover had a 10.5 stamped on it and has 12 bolts. Is this known as a ford 10.5"
I have changed gears and pinion bearings in a Dana 70 before is this the same process? What are part numbers for a new pinion bearing and seal? Gears are in fine shape.
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 5.4 Triton motor with a Transmission Leak. I have drained the Transmission, replaced the Transmission pan gasket and filter. The auto parts store also had me purchase the Torque Converter bearings/seal along with enough transmission fluid and a bottle of Lukas Transmission fix. Do I really need to replace the bearings/seal if I have everything else already ?
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Have a rear wheel bearing making some noise. A friend told me that it is always the outer bearing that goes first . Can you replace the bearing without replacing the race?
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I have a 2001 F350 with a 7.3 diesel and automatic trans. I purchased it about 100,000 miles ago. It is all stock as far as I know. The mileage on it was about 14-15 on the road and I decided to put a chip in it. I was somewhat leary of putting too much power to this old of a rig. I put a TS Performance chip in it. It seems to have more power. I am towing a 30 ft. Gulfstream Seahawk I think around 10,000 lbs. When I started up a hill it made a different noise like a screeching noise when I pushed it. When I back off a bit the noise goes away. When I put it back to stock setting the noise is not there just the normal downshift and increased RPM. Not sure how to describe the noise but sounds like a metal bearing type noise. I get the same rush of air or what ever that sound is when it changes back to a higher gear. Is this sound normal or what might it be. It sounds normal when not pressing it.
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I have read the older posts here on the super duty ford 4x4 system. At 60,000 miles I noticed what sounds like a gear or bearing noise, or even a whining noise like you would hear from mud grip tires, coming from the front end area, while driving back from Kentucky to Georgia. I have quiet running street tires on this pickup.
I have a 2004 F350 crew cab XL, automatic, 4x4, limited slip axles, 430 gearing and a V10. This truck has always been extremely quiet on the highway. This noise I described above has increased and the truck now has 70,000 miles. I have the factory 4x4 dash switch in my truck cab for the 4x4 engagement. I always thought the dash switch engaged and disengaged the transfer case, and locked or unlocked the automatic hubs.
The service guy at the dealer now tells me that the dash switch only locks and unlocks the front hubs, and the front drive shaft and front differential are engaged full time. So, after checking my tires for defects, and for any play or bearing noise in my wheel bearings, I am looking at pulling the drive shaft out keep the front differential from turning, to determine if I have a bad bearing in the front axle assembly.
Now I read some of the posts here, and they say that with the dash switch in "2 wheel drive", the transfer case should be disengaged and the front drive shaft and front axle should not be turning at all. What is turning up front with the 4x4 disengaged on the dash switch ? I'm afraid to drive my truck out of town now and I need to isolate this issue and get it repaired. This has been a great truck and it's very reliable.
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2002 F250 4 wheel drive manual hubs, 7.3....
My first thought was to have the tires rebalanced and rotated to see if it is tire noise? I am hearing damage on top of the noise from the 7.3, hard to be sure!
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My truck had devolped a whine/howl over the past coulple hundred miles. I thought it was a wheel bearing failing me. So yesterday I pulled it into the shop and jacked up the front end. Everthing checked out fine so I jacked up the rear end, started it up, put it in gear and to my surprise the noise was from the rear end.
I pulled the rear end apart and found the front pinion bearing had a defect in the race and the rollers were starting to pit out causing the noise and harshness when turning it. The truck has 130k, seal wasnt leaking and fluid looked/smelled normal. I think it was a legitimate defect not from abuse or lack of maintenance.
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We were using my 2001 7.3 4x4 (automatic, manual lock outs) in 4 low yesterday on dry pavement in an attempt to pull out the remainder of a 6x6 post in concrete. We were working her pretty hard alternating directions of pulling. At one point we heard a loud bang (see also: thud; pop; etc). It seemed at that point that the front axle was no longer functioning in 4wd. We still had the low gearing feel, but at one point I noticed my rear tires trying to slip on the driveway, but fronts didn't appear to be pulling anymore.
Long story short, came in, went to bed, went out this morning and thought I'd jack up the front end and roll the tires in both 'free' and 'lock' to see if the universal joints (yokes?) behind each wheel were spinning or not, depending on whether free or locked in. I noticed on the passenger side a few drops of a clear/light colored fluid that had dripped from behind the dust cover that isn't functioning any longer. The joints worked as they should, based on if it was locked in or not.
I decided to go ahead and put the back axle on jackstands as well and see how it was working when "driving". When in 2wd, rear worked, front was stationary, as it should be. when in 4high, rear spun, front driver spun erratically, nothing from passenger front (where I had seen drip). 4low was same thing - erratic on driver side, at best.
So I know I have front axle/transfer case issues. The question is, with the drip (smells like grease, so I'm assuming its gear oil?) would I be safe to drive it a few days with hubs in free position? I don't want all of the fluid leaking out when I'm driving down the road. I use the truck for work and wouldn't be able to be without it until later in the week or next week. But I also don't want to drive it if it will just make my predicament worse.
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I bought a 2000 F250 V10 Super Cab. Oddly after a few weeks it has grown on me. There has been a clunking noise out of the right front over bumps. I traced it to a bad axle bearing. The u joint moves up and down about a 1/2 inch. Besides pulling the hub/bearing assembly out and removing the axle are there any surprises getting the old bearing out?
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2001 F250, 5.4, Replaced the clockspring and now my steering wheel feels very tight. After cornering, it doesn't come back on it's own, like something is rubbing. The face of the clockspring is slightly different than what was there.
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I've got a 2016 250 6.2l and am getting a popping sound coming from the transmission area. the following is what i have figured out so far. the noise is made just before a complete stop, just as the tranny down shifts to 1st and can be felt through the manual floor shifter 100% of the time and heard roughly 90% of the time. sound ranges from not audible to loud and is random in how loud it is. the only way it does not do this is if i come to a stop in neutral or i go slow enough as not to have the tranny shift out of first from my last stop. the only other way is if i do one of those long, slow rolling stops. truck only has 6600 miles on it. i will be taking it in at 7500 for first service and have them look at it ...
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New 2012 SD - Is it normal? Going over road bumps, etc causes a metallic sound, kind of like you had some loose metal in the bed bounding around...except it does it when the bed is empty. At first, I thought spare tire...but it is tight. Springs making noise? My father's 2011 F-150 does not make any noise.
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I have a grinding/Rattling noise coming out of the front area of the transmission when the clutch is disengaged (up), noise stops when clutch is pushed in. 99 (6/98) F-350 7.3, manual, 4x4, 192xxx mi. Just came out of the shop with the following done to it:
New Power Force clutch kit, twice.
Transmission Rebuilt twice.
Different rebuilt transmission.
Rear main seal r/r.
After first time in shop the noise was apparent. about 3,000 miles were driven with no change, brought back to shop, where transmission was gone through again as well as a new clutch set, same noise still present! Another transmission was rebuilt and installed, same noise!!!
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I've got a 2011 F-350, when i'm on the driving over 60 mph i hear this humming or buzzing noise coming from around the dash. It kind of comes and goes depending on the wind direction or if I'm passing a semi. Thinking it may be coming from around the windshield seal.
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I have a new 2016 F250, few months old, loving life. I noticed a weird noise/feeling when I am making turns while going over a bumps. There is a left hand turn on my way home that I take every day at approx 15 mph. There is a dip in the road and I can feel a weird grind kinda feeling through the gas pedal and a noise from the front right suspension. Being a brand new truck, I'm not sure what the deal is, or if I'm just overly critical.
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Ok I have a 2002 f250 7.3 4x4. The belt starting to shred and make a whiping sound at highway speed. So I replaced the idler, tensioner and belt. That was not the problem it still making noise so next I changed water pump. Still not it so I changed a/c clutch, bearing, and pulley. And It still not fixed. Right now the back of the belt is turning black on the wrighting like a pully is locking up. Also the front edge of the belt is starting to wear. I only have 255,000 miles on the truck and has been well maintained.
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My 99 F250 has just recently started making a "rattling" noise. The noise sounds like its coming from the front left wheel area. The noise is constant while driving down the road, its NOT created by bumps or anything, its a constant noise while moving.
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2012 truck, started making a noise today. I cannot tell what it is, but seems to be coming from the passenger front suspension, its a crunching/light clunking sound, happens when going over bumps, when the truck pitches one way or the other turning, and coming to a stop....
Truck has 6k miles, I did a quick visual inspection this afternoon, didn't notice much, but the sway bar endlink looked a bit odd though, not sure if normal, its gota little bend too it and seems to just contact the vac line mounted behind it, seemed unusual...
Maybe its its just one of the crappy rancho branded shocks is junk?
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I just picked up a 2001 F350 with the 5.4L with 200k miles. When I test drove the thing the engine sounded fine. I got it home and noticed that it occasionally has a loud knocking noise that is coming from the Left Valve cover area. It sounds like an old Chevy 6.5L Diesel ...
It comes and goes, Hot or Cold. It seems like it usually goes away when driving with RPMs above 1500 or so, however I took off with it yesterday and the noise would not go away, it seems like it might be low on power when the noise comes on, but then again it always feels low on power, so who knows.
I have changed the plugs, oil, and verified there are no exhaust leaks at the manifolds.
Here is a video of the noise: YouTube....
I dont think it is the timing chain, as it seems like its coming more from the center of the cover, when placing my hand on the cover near the timing set there is no vibration or anything that would lead me to believe its the chain.
All of my searching so far turns up 3V stuff, and little info on the 2V engines. The valve cover looks like a nightmare to get off, who have to work on these things (including me).
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