2001 F250, 5.4, Replaced the clockspring and now my steering wheel feels very tight. After cornering, it doesn't come back on it's own, like something is rubbing. The face of the clockspring is slightly different than what was there.
View 1 RepliesI have a ford f350 2014 that had some water damage, the clockspring suffered water damage so I replaced it along with the steering column module.
The clockspring was brand new from ford, already centered, I pulled out the plastic tab during install.
Cluster has SERVICE ADVANCETRAC error and IDS is shows fault with the steering angle sensor. (see picture)
Do these new sensors have to be reset and calibrated to work, or does this FAULT message on IDS indicate a wiring problem?
Adding cruise control to F350 XL I just bought. I got a steering wheel with the buttons. But I am having problems with the clock spring. Mine has an 8 wire plug with only 6 pins on the big plug and all of the clock springs I have found have only a 6 wire plug for the big one. Without changing my clock spring I have no where to plug in the cruise wiring. All have been for right year model with cruise and even tried different years but none will plug in under the dash.
View 3 RepliesI've got an 04 f250 4x4 crew cab. I just replaced the upper and lower ball joints on both sides and also the drag link. My alignment was off from the bad ball joints so I had it aligned after I did all of this. Now the steering is really weird. Its like something is to tight. I can barely keep the truck straight because every time I barely move the wheel I seem to be going one way or another and getting it straight is nearly impossible to the point I look like a drunk driver. I can turn the wheel to go around a curve and let go of it and it will stay that way until I turn it back. It won't return itself. I'm kind of lost.
View 3 RepliesWe have a 2001 Toyota Camry with 240,000 miles on it. At the last maintenance session, the dealer told us that the funny noise coming from the steering wheel is the "clock spring behind the steering wheel". The dealer would be happy to replace it for us...
View 12 RepliesI have an 03 F-250 4 wheel drive with the 6.0. For the last 3 months or so I have been having some issues with the steering system and I am not quite sure what it could be or what too look for. I have already replaced the power steering pump due to the shaft seal leak on my old one. After that I noticed that the truck would never really center the steering up on its own like it used to and that it pulled in either direction depending on which way you steered it. I then decided that I would replace the steering box on the truck. I replaced it with a Napa one. Right after that I had it on the alignment rack and the guy said it was not even out of alignment. As I continued to drive the truck it continued to pull in either direction whenever you took a hard turn in either direction. Then one night coming home from work, I was pushing it a little hard, the truck pulled itself across the center line. The steering wheel and all turned to the left. It did this 5 or so times in a row. I am also noticing some issues with my lock outs but don't know if it is tied to the same issue with the steering.
View 3 RepliesI drive a 2000 Grand Voyager with 260,000 miles on it. The airbag light goes on and off and I was told the clock spring is breaking in the steering column. Is there any danger to not having it fixed besides the airbag not going off when it is supposed to, like airbag going off when it is NOT supposed to or function damage to the car or electrical systems. I have mechanics tell me both yes and no. Any thoughts from people here? I'm trying to get as many miles out of it as possible without spending too much on stuff that doesn't need fixed.
View 10 RepliesAfter 240,000 miles I had to get the ball joints on my 02 f250 2 wheel drive replaced and the alignment set. I notice that the steering is really tight. In fact that it will not attempt to return to center on the highway. The guy that did the work has 30 years experience doing this sort of thing and he says I just need to drive it and it will loosen up. Interested in hearing from others that have replaced ball joints; Is this normal? How long do they take to loosen up?
View 7 RepliesMy 2004 f250 ball and u joint replacement job is at a bit of a stand still. Tore it down, brought the knuckle and axle shafts to an ex mechanic I know, because he has a 20 ton Harbor freight shop press. He mostly used a hammer, bashed out the old ball joints (I already had removed the u joints). U joint turned out fine.
I did notice the upper ball joint protruded a very slight bit on one side in the knuckle, meaning you could feel with your finger on the underside of the joint and on the one side it is not exactly flush with the interior of the knuckle. I would say it protrudes no more than a thirty second or so.
I brought it home, installed the boots on the moog joints, (the bottom was unusually difficult to put on), greased the joints and hung the knuckle on the axle tube, by a few turns on the lower joints nut. I then inserted the camber sleeve on the top stud, torqued the bottom to 49 fp then the top to 67 and finally the bottom to 150. End result, very stiff movement on the knuckle. No tie rod attached, and it takes to hands to move it from the "stopped" position,(turned all the way). I am sure it is stiffer than when I did the other side.
I tried loosening the nuts completely, same stiffness. I redid the torque sequence, no change. Tried hammering the ears around where the joints seat no improvement. The fellow who installed into the knuckle came and took a look. He agreed the knuckle was stiffer than you would hope, but, he suggested Putting it all together, as he believed they would loosen up before too long. I am not sure whether to try that, or remove the knuckle now, and redo with new joints. Pros and cons to either approach.
My question is : Does a knuckle become more sketchy by the time it is dealing with the pressing of a third set of ball joints? If I finish the install now, will a stiff knuckle action lead to other mechanical wear within a thousand miles or so, while I wait to see if they loosen up?
Took my truck in to get the wheel bearings replaced (driver's side was singing pretty loud). Decided to have the ball joints replaced at the same time since they were still original at 133,000. Got the truck back and the steering is just not right. At high speeds it acts like an old F100 wandering back and forth and the steering is pretty tight when you try to correct the wandering. I have taken it back to Ford and had the alignment checked twice.
They adjusted it slightly and "loosened" the stearing gear box. Truck is better at low speeds but still not right at highway speeds. Ford is telling me there is a "break-in" period for the ball-joints. I don't remember my friends F350 having a break-in period when he replaced his ball joints. Truck tracked fine before the work was done. Tie-rod ends also checked out. Truck is a 99 350 CC SRW 8ft bed.
Conversion from the dana 50 to the newer dana 60 with coil spring? My Dana 50 has called it quits so while my front end is already off the vehicle already why not make improvements. Ford used the 50 for 1999 to 2002 then upgraded to the 60, I'm guessing it was for a reason!
I've read this article on a similar project but the dana 60 had leaf springs as well: Dana 60 Conversion for F250 years 1986-1996 .: Articles I'd prefer coil spring, nothing more then personal preference with a bit of better ride quality. The donor vehicle is a 06 SRW F250 This is not what I'll be getting but just as an example of the parts I would get.
Does this look like a bulb may be burnt out?
It is dark between 5 o'clock on the speedo and 8 o'clock on the tach.
Where are the dash lights and what type are they?
Starting about a year ago, "sometimes" when I step on the brakes and am turning the steering wheel, I loose the power steering. I took it to Ford and they said that this is a a known issue but they didn't say what it would take to fix it. Because this problem is intermittent it is very hard to get this fixed unless the mechanic can experience and verify the problem for himself...
View 14 RepliesI had the clock spring recall done last week and now when I turn my wheel almost to full lock for a tight turn, it has a little "chirp" when going past a certain point. I'll definitely bring it back to them to correct it, but I'm guessing no quick fix but I can easily remove my airbag and check from there.
View 4 RepliesI recently had to put a clock spring inside the steering wheel. I aligned it and calibrated it, however, after this change, the VSC light keeps coming on. I have disconnected the battery, I have used the paperclip on the obd connector and calibrated, but it keeps coming back on after driving a few miles. The car runs great. Along with the VSC light, the vehicle warning light comes on also.
View 1 RepliesI replaced the power steering pump on my 2000 f250 Power stroke. I bled the lines, and when the wheels are on the ground, I have no steering. When I raise the wheels off the ground, I have no problems turning stop to stop.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 f250 v-10 4wd with 117,000 miles. I just replaced drivers side front hub bearing assy and not sure if it's the new bearing or what but now I keep hearing this crazy noise from suspension area. It has had bangs and pops for a while now. It almost sounds like abs motor going off but louder. Does it going slow fast or whatever. Brakes on or off. Trucks ball joints were done about two months ago and new shocks, trac bar replaced this summer only thing not done was tie rod ends and all bushings. Brakes are good new rotors and pads this summer also. It's like taking two inflated balloons and rub them together real fast. It may be the timken bearing maybe bad from get go.
View 14 Repliesthe mechanism that locks the steering wheel is stuck. not the ignition key cylinder (already removed that). how do I release that mechanism to free the steering wheel.
View 3 RepliesSeems that after a sharp right turn, for instance turning right at a stop sign I'll get a loud pop that I can feel in the floor pan under my feet.
After the pop the steering wheel and whole front of the truck will shift left and right like someone is grabbing the wheel, sometimes violently. If I drive slowly it will cure itself and sometimes not do it again for several days. I've check ball joints and hubs and they are in great shape. I pulled the hubs and greased the needle bearings about 6 months ago. I checked all steering components and the linkage that attached to the steering arm had some play so I replaced it. Then I found that some idiot took the steel sleeve out of the bushing in one end of the steering stabilizer. I bought a new stabilizer and cured a pop I'd had since I got the truck, but the other issues were not solved.
Alignment has been checked too.
My truck has developed a wobble in the steering wheel. I don't mean when you are driving down the road, but the steering wheel wobbles around. It wobbles in any position that the Till shaft is set to. How to repair.
View 10 Repliesjust bought this f250 seems to walk on the road alot, had it looked at has new balljoints, he says everything seems tight except there is lots of play at the gearbox, is it recommended to have it rebuilt or buy a reman, was told that even the reman seems to be the same way
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