Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - Over Bumps Rear End Very Rough?
Jan 25, 2016
I've got a 2WD 2001 F-250 P/S Super Duty that is almost bone stock. The only suspension work done is the addition of air bags which are deflated. Whenever I hit ant bumps it feels like the rear axle is gonna come up through the bed of the truck. I've changed the shocks and there's no change.
Cars and other trucks seem to take the same bumps like a Cadillac.
will go towards saving my marriage since I'm building a house 1/4 mile from a R/R crossing.
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All the body bushings have dry rotted away on my 08 Superduty. Are these hard to replace?
I am starting to hear and feel more road noise and rattling when going over bumps or a rough road. U think they would have used polyurethane bushings instead of rubber.
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I have a 2005 king ranch and have a clunk coming from the back over bumps/heaves in the road. It doesn't happen all the time but often enough. I just replaced the shocks, that worked a little but didn't solve the problem. Now thinking rear sway bar end links? Anything I can check/inspect?
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My wife was using my truck and she felt it lost power and ran rough, so she pulled over can contacted me. We both are deaf, but I can hear some and it sounds really bad. So, I had it towed home and I recorded it.
2001 F250 5.4 V8....
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2001 V10- F250.. Runs rough- had the computer put on it and was coming up with P0174 codes (I think that is right)- In any case I replaced the Mass air flow sensor- checked for any vacuum leaks visually- I did not see anything obvious.... still runs like crap.... smells like gas when idling.... anything else I can check??? The check engine light went off finally (probably due to the MAF)- but it's driving me nuts- Any hoses I have not located I need to check?
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2001 f250 v10 6.8l runs a little rough at idle, low rpm is ok between 1700 and 3000 rpm but around 3 it starts to shudder while driving let off gas get back on its fine, new plugs 1,000 miles ago has throttle body spacer and cold air intake, stock everything else..
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Lately my 2001 F250 5.4 engine is running rough when I am accelerating or keeping it certain speed. It feels like it is jerking. Like if the truck lost power for a second. This will go on for few minutes. Where to start to trouble shoot.
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So about a month or so ago i had my alternator replaced because my truck wouldnt start and had it checked and replaced well tonite it started rough dont know what to think what/where should i check first?
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2001 f350 v10, initial problem was when i came to stop at light it idled rough. I changed all plugs,injectors and COP, and bad connectors thereto. Changed the clock spring as well. Now the truck idles like crap at first start of of the day then run fine there after. Replaced IAC, TPS, Temp sensor. Condition getting worse and now the temp gauge does not work. I am thinking maybe CAT Converter loaded up?
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The truck is in my Sig 01 F250 5.4
Just got back from a long trip with it. Parked it for 3 days, all was running fine. Went to dinner Sat night and all was great, left the restaurant and as soon as I started the engine I noticed a slight vibration. As soon as I hit 42 miles per hour, it started shaking pretty good. I pulled over and checked under the truck to make sure I did not have anything I was not supposed to hanging down.
Driveshaft looked good, nothing leaking from rear end or tranny. When it does vibrate, the Tach shows the unhappiness as well. This a.m. driving to work it was vibrating at all speeds and shifting was very rough, had a hard time deciding if it wanted to be in second or third gear. I don't think this is drive train issue... When it shutters and sputters at 40ish MPH, its almost like it loses power and I have to let off the gas. and then under power it shakes badly.
I had the super chip settings for performance tow when this started and then I changed it back to stock settings, thinking it might work, which it only got worse. Changing the settings with the Superchip you have to disable the fuel system and I do this by pulling the fuel pump fuse under the hood in the power distro box.
I think the ujoints are still good, the oil and tranny fluid are spot on. Hubs are locked but in 2WD. Had all the front end replaced 15K miles ago. Brand new tires and wheels in Sept, front end alignment done at same time, front brakes were 90% and rear brakes at 20%.
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I have an '01 F250/4X4--How can you tell if your rear drum brakes are bad? Do they make a noise?
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Is there an easier way to fill the rear end on my '01 f250? I have a gadget with a valve on it with a length of tubing that you put on the bottle, but you still have to snake the bottle up through the chassis.
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Ok I have a 2001 f250 SD with 7.3 and my rear bumper is dented and badly and warped. The steel frame mounting part of it is straight and fine. I found a "kit" on eBay that has just the end caps and plastic top cap for a 2008+ style trucks. Would those caps and plastic fit on my frame mounted section (what the actual name for the part that the chrome bumper actually screws into that mounts it to frame) ?
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I'm trying to find to rear axle ratio on my 2001 F-350 dually and the axle code seems to be missing.
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I have a quick question. I am gonna change the fluid in my 01 f250 rear end. it has 410 gears and a limited slip diff. if i use full synthetic gear oil do i have to add the limited slip additive or just the 75w-140 full synthetic gear oil.
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I am working on my Dads 01 super duty with a 5.4, automatic, and the pinion bearing has seized up due to a lack of fluid from a rusted out rear diff cover. The tag on the diff cover had a 10.5 stamped on it and has 12 bolts. Is this known as a ford 10.5"
I have changed gears and pinion bearings in a Dana 70 before is this the same process? What are part numbers for a new pinion bearing and seal? Gears are in fine shape.
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Have a 2001 F350 7.3 4X4 with single wheels in rear. Started hearing brakes noise and decided to change both front and rear pads. Front had almost half the pads left. Rear on drivers side had about half the pads left. The passenger side metal to metal on the inboard pad and about half the pad on the outboard side. The slides on the caliper were a little sluggish but moved freely. Don't think there is enough to have them turned so will have to replace the rotors. Why this would happen. Could the caliper get stuck? It was easy enough to compress with a C clamp.
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I have for the 4th time in a little over a year developed another issue with a rear caliper hanging up last year i ended up replacing both rear calipers with reman. from NAPA. 3 months ago i had to replace the right rear again. Now currently i am having the left rear starting to hang up again. I've done a fluid flush and everything. I'm kind of at a loss. I don't normally have this much trouble with brakes. Some of the symptoms that go along with this are a spongy pedal and inconsistent brake feel just like when you have air in a line.
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Like a lot of our trucks, mine had the tap-tap-tap cab noise while going over bumps. It always sounded like it was coming from the passenger side doors. I have read many solutions, but have never been able to solve my noise issue. But, I may have found it....or more truthfully, my wife.
The other weekend we were out running errands. As she climbed into the cab and shut the door she commented that the handle above the passenger door was getting real loose. She wiggled it to demonstrate.
Tap-tap-tap.
Same noise....... ....I'll be dipped.
Got home, grabbed a socket wrench and tightened the 2 screws. They were like 3 turns loose.
Noise seems to be gone. Time will tell, but if you have"that noise" check the upper passenger grab handle.
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I've had my f350 7.3 for about 5 years now, she's my work truck so I plow and do a lot of towing. Had moog upper and lower ball joints done about 4 years ago seeing I dident know much about trucks then. As I learned more I started doing stuff myself, did sway bar links cause I was getting a bad clunk going over certain bumps and it totally fixed it. Just replaced tie rod ends and shocks but I'm still getting this clunking it seems when the truck rocks side to side, when I leave my driveway apron every morning I can hear it. I did a balljoint check a few times moving the tire up and down to check for play but everything seemed tight, not sure if it could be bushings or what I'm stumped
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I was going to put new ball joints in but wimped out and had my mechanic do them. I'm too old to be doing that kind of crap. I just replaced the fuel pump with the correct one. That's enough under truck time for a while. 91,000 miles on the originals, stopped the rumble / rattle when I hit bumps in the front end. Getting the alignment Tuesday. Guess I got my money's worth out of them. Still has original brake pads too. Thinking of doing an upgrade to the brakes, drilled and slotted, I tow an RV and need it to protect the idiots that pull out in front of me. 2001, V10, CC ......
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