I have a 2001 f250 with a 7.3. What is the operation of the clutch fans on these trucks. Sometimes when pulling my camper and the truck downshifts it will roar like a sob. Other times I will hear it but like it is an electric fan. Then there are times you hear it and then the noise goes away. Can this fan be heat operated.
View 3 RepliesI have a 02' 250 4x4 with 250000 miles on it. While driving between 55 to 65 mph there is a roar and vibration that seems to be coming from the rear. I have about 35% tire tread left and have had the rear tires balanced and it still does it. Having issues with drive shafts unbalanced or rear ends?? I am not sure where to start....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 F550 flatbed tow truck with a 7.3 and the ZF 6 trans. i put a Luk clutch flywheel pressure plate new throw out bearing new clutch fork New clutch slave cylinder and master set up. When i push the clutch in it is VERY EASY compared to the way it was before. Ane when you push the clutch in and put it in gear you can hear the clutch disc rubbing on the flywheel and if you lift your foot the thickness of a hair the truck takes off. Also i can't engage my PTO because the clutch is not disengaging all the way. there is No adjustments on this set up. What Now.
View 2 RepliesI'm looking at a 2004 F250 XLT super cab 4x4 with a 5.4L with only 50k on the clock. It looks to be in great shape and drives good with only a few issues. Cruise doesn't work, it pulls to the left a little, and it has a slight roar coming from the left front wheel. Other than that it seems to be a nice truck. Its blue and grey two tone. Anything else I need to look at before pulling the handle on this one?
View 11 RepliesMy 01 450 V-10 dump truck had intermittent clutch petal problem. Petal would not return all the way. Had to pull it up then it worked ok for a while. Now it only works occasionally. Could it be the disk is collapsing or the master or slave? Any good how to video for replacement?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 f250 5.4l w 4r100 and it seams to loose its gear or down shift only when i take a hard right turn. I took it to a trans shop and it shows no codes and at this point I am very confused...
View 9 RepliesI put some bfg at's on my '16 f250 6.2 today, 285/70r17 from 245/75r17. Has went to a larger tire and had funny downshifts? I had two hard down shifts on the way home from tire shop that I have never had before. I'm hoping this will go away once the computer relearns. Should I disconnect the battery or anything or just drive it and let it learn? I'm a little disappointed, the tires still look tiny, and checking clearances at liners and radius arms, I could have cleared a lot more tire easily. They sure looked bigger on dads '04. These will do me for a year or so until I can upgrade wheels, tires and suspension.
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97 f350 5.8L E4OD Transmission. This truck will not downshift when you come to a stop. You must manually shift it all the way through and then it does fine. What is causing this issue? It will kick down into passing gear. What is wrong?
View 4 Replies2015 F-350 diesel purchased Sept 2104. When towing my 16,000 lb 5th wheel the 6 to 5 downshift seems to have gotten much harsher in the last few months. About 10,000 miles on the truck, much of it towing. Is this an indication of a developing problem?
View 1 RepliesRecently my F350 has failed to downshift when the accelerator pedal is pressed to the floor to speed up in traffic. It will usually happen when traveling at speeds in the 30's-40's. It will shift quickly at slower speeds. I have a scan guage on it all the time and it is not throwing any codes.
The transmission has only been serviced by the dealer; last done about 24000 miles ago. No leaks or low fluids/no burned smells. Stock setup with no heavy towing use. Currently at 228000+ miles, this is the first issue with the transmission assuming I am looking at the right area for the cause.
2005 F350 XLT 4WD
I have a 2005 f250 super duty turbo diesel 6.0 automatic. The problem I'm having is, when I engage the tow/haul button the transmission doesn't down shift unless I feather the pedal. Also the engine will overheat at times. I've replaced the thermostat, but that's all so far.
View 2 RepliesWhile in Tow/Haul with my 5th wheel when slowing down probably at 5 or 10 mph the last downshift is very hard and the brake pedal gets real soft until full stop. Afterwards the brake pedal is firm. Tow/Haul without the trailer is fine. It's an '06 F250 Supercrew 4x4.
View 6 RepliesI was driving to work this morning and my hydraulic clutch linkage messed up on the 1999 f-250 super duty 7.3 with zf 6 speed. It acted like any clutch master cylinder when they go out, the pedal went to the floor and the clutch would not release, but it also became very hard to shove in the clutch pedal, so I speed shifted it without the clutch and made it to work. So I figured no big deal I will swap out the clutch master and slave cylinder complete assembly in the parking lot, except I had to get a ride 30 miles to an auto parts store that had it in stock. I changed out the complete assembly and same problem with the new one, extremely hard clutch pedal, so I did not dare to push it anymore and risk damaging the new cylinders, and left the truck at work. I am thinking broken throw out bearing jammed into the clutch, or dislocated throw out arm causing the problem. The clutch disc, pressure plate and single mass flywheel were replaced by the previous owner 3 years and 15,000 miles ago.
View 3 RepliesOk AC wasn't working took it to a mechanic told me the the compressor was missing a clutch he recommended i put a new compressor. Is it possible just to put a new clutch in it and if so do i have to remove the compressor to put the clutch on it.
View 14 RepliesI've got a 2000 F350 PSD XLT. When I turn on the AC it runs and cools fine. However, the first time the clutch cycles off or you select another position then back to an AC position the clutch will not reengage. The high and low pressure check good. How to trouble shoot this.
View 14 Replies2003 V10.. Can I replace the AC compressor clutch with out pulling the compressor out?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2000 F-550 w/7.3. I am having a bit of a problem with the hvac system. When I turn the selector switch to floor heat only or put it on vent or both the a/c clutch kicks on and off. Not when I put it on defrost but as I said only when it is in the other positions. I do know that the clutch will kick in and out when on the defrost position. That is fine. But why would it kick in and out when in the heat only position?
View 2 RepliesI was thinking my AC clutch has too much gap and was gonna do the "fix it" listed in another thread. However, my clutch wouldn't engage like it states needs to be done. The only time my AC blows cold is when it's cold/cooler outside OR I rev up the RPM's but it hardly stays engaged. I had a friend do a few diagnostics on it, with a paper clip (assuming he did it right) he feels my clutch is bad. But I've read the clutch is either good or bad, works or doesn't work, no in between.
Next, it doesn't seem to blow as hard as it used to. I replaced the blower motor last summer, but even before that, it seemed to not blow very hard. If I have it on low, it's very hard to feel it. With a crew cab and 2 little boys seated in the back, they often end up sweaty and miserable, no matter how far we go. I've read the orifice tube might need to be replaced, or something needs to be cleaned cuz it's dirty or clogged like the orifice tube. But I can't remember what.
I Have a 1999 f250 7.3 diesel with the zf5 manual transmission and to shift gears I need to push the clutch all the way to the floor. Could this possibly be the slave and master cylinder or is it the clutch?
View 14 Replies2002 - f250... I originally posted this issue in July of '03. Nothing has changed.
1. At max ac, regardless of how hot it is, the ac clutch cycles due to low pressure once the cabin temp reaches about 78 degrees. This is not acceptable or expected in my opinion.
2. I have run extensive tests, done this for years, and the conclusion is that there is too much pressure drop in the evaporator. I'm seeing 5-7 psi drop measured using a Fluke digital temp probe, insulating the probe tip around the pipe. Compare outlet of orifice tube several as far away from orifice as possible and comparing to outlet temp of evaporator where it comes out of the plastic shrowd. Convert temp to pressure.
I've seen many posts over the years of people not happy with '99 to '04 ford truck ac operation at cruising speed. I have confirmed that the compressor is cycling way too much to cool the cab down. I even ran an experiment where I completely blocked the condensor to raise the head pressure and the compressor still cycked at 1500 rpm's with the cab above 75 degrees on a 90+ degree day.
My next step is to blow out the evaporator and see how much oil and junk I get out of it. I'm also considering taking the evaporator out and trimming the rubber gasket that is around it. It is blocking about an inch of the coil face all the way around.
My conclusion still is that the evaporator just isn't loading up enough as if it's partially clogged. There is only about 2 psi drop between the outlet of the evaporator and the compressor.
The compressor cuts out at 21 psi so the low pressure cutout switch is working properly.
What should I use to flush the evaporator out? Will mineral spirits do it as long as I blow it out real well and make sure I get all of it out? Also wondering if I should blow out the condensor thinking maybe there is something clogging it up.
In spite of some folks on this forum saying it is normal for the compressor to cycle at cruising speed, that is a correct statement depending on many factors. In my case, the cycling is not normal or expected. I have also tried:
1. VOV
2. Larger orifice
3. 14 oz charge over what the sticker says
I have verified that my AC clutch does disengage (and re-engage), but it seems like the AC is on all the time. Normally you don't notice this in the Northwest because I always overpower it with the heater, but now that it's above 70 on occasion, in vent and full cold, it still blows 20 degrees colder or more than outside air temp.
Is it possible that the clutch disengages but that the bearings are bad and its somehow still turning the compressor? Would a mechanic be able to diagnose this or would I just have to throw money at buying a new compressor? My first indication should have been that I get about 15-16mpg when I used to get 18+ occasionally.