Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - Oil In Spark Plug Holes?
Aug 19, 2015
I have a 2001 ford f250 6.8 v10 with just about 183,000 miles on it my wife has been driving it and she told me it was running kinda rough so I took it for a drive and she was right so I pulled #1 COP and found it was full of oil and the same with#2 and #3 had a little bit of oil not as bad. What is causing my plug holes to fill with oil?
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I purchased a 2000 F250 SD with 5.4L Automatic for a project with my daughter. After removing the fuel rail and the coil pack on the driver side I noticed two spark plug holes had oil in it almost to the top of the plug. I'm guessing it is a bad rocker cover gasket that is allowing oil to leak into the plugwells? Nothing I could find on the internet relating to this.
After removing the rocker cover the silicone gasket was intact but wet with oil. I purchased a replacement Felpro gasket but now understand they might need grommets for the crazy bolts Ford uses to hold the cover on the head.
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So my 2000 F250 has 182k and I am not sure when plugs were changed. Its got the 5.4. My 2001 Excursion has 102k on the v10 and I've read a few threads about blowing plugs and now I am scared out of my mind. Do I need to worry about breaking them or stripping anything?
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How to get the spark plug out of cylinder #4. I have the kit to take out the base of the plug out of the head if it breaks off. But I can't get the plug out. I think the plug broke off but not the electrode. So the electrode is caught up in the porcelain tip of the plug. It's pretty tight back there with the a/c lines and fuel rail and other stuff. I tried needle nose but they just don't grip it right, to get enough force to pull it. These are the plugs with the extended tips.
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Have a 2005 F350 4x4 SRW 5.4L with roughly 90k miles and I am replacing the original plugs. Broke three out of seven which was expected and have them replaced. You probably noticed I wrote 7 plugs above. The 8th plug which happens to be the #8 plug is giving me fits. I can't get a socket on it. The socket spins smoothly by hand with no ratchet over the plug but no upward movement. I cleaned the base of the hole thinking it might have some debris preventing it from hitting bottom. From what I can see after cleaning and blowing it out, the base of the hole is clean and there plug appears to have something for the socket grab onto. Out of curiosity, I have tried smaller and larger sockets in both 6 and 12 point with no luck. Is it possible the plug was set too deep in the head from the factory?
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About a week ago I blew #10 spark plug out of my 1999 super duty. I was able to screw it back in, though it only has 2 1/2 threads now, and was able to put 12 ft/lb's of torque on it. I am driving it around and it is running fine but i am wondering if i am sitting on a ticking time bomb thats gonna blow at a random time, and if so what should i do about it. Should i just run it until the plug fully blows out, or is there an easier and cheaper fix that i could do if i fix it before the threads are fully stripped out. I have heard about Time Serts, but without pulling the head i would be scared of having a metal shaving get down into my cylinder and scratch the hell outta it.
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What is the spark plug pattern on the 460 n where the wires go on the cap. And also how to time it.
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I have an 03 F250 5.4L
Driving down the highway today, I notice my truck was jerking forward a little, hard to notice almost felt like I was hitting very small pot holes. I revved up a little to see if I could notice any noises and I got a loud pop. after the pop, got a noise like an exhaust leak so I pulled off to the side of the highway and popped the hood (engine still running). Noticed the noise coming from the passenger side most forward spark plug. Then noticed the part that the coil attaches too had broke off from its bracket and was unseated, shut off the engine and pulled it out to find the coil cover had melted to the coil.
The spark plug inside was moving freely so I took it out thinking it stripped from the header. Come to find that the plug had actually separated from its threading completely so just the core part of the plug had shot out from the cylinder, the threading and socket attachment portion still fully attached. I installed a new spark plug and new coil harness and coil. Seems to be running as good as new now. Is there more to this than a simple blown plug that I need to worry about?
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I am changing the plugs in my 98 e150 today and I was thinking it was a .54 gap and 13 ft/lbs to tighten them. That sound about right?
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I have a 02 F250 with 137 thousand miles. When it had 130 thousand on it I had the plugs changed unknowing that this year 5.4 was known for blowing the plugs.
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The spark plug in chamber 2 blew off while the vehicle was in motion (approx 35 mph). Purchased replacement plugs and when I went to install, there was nothing for the plug to grab (i.e. appears that all of the threads on the block/casing are gone . Not sure what my options are.
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I have a 2006 F250 5.4L. I was getting a noticeable misfire after not driving the truck for a while. Mode 6 revealed that cylinder #8 was misfiring.
I took off the coil/boot and there was coolant on the tip of the boot and some at the bottom of the spark plug well.
I cleaned everything up and put everything back together and that took care of that problem when I started the car. I also stuck a wad of paper towel by the intake manifold nearest spark plug number 8 and tightened the manifold bolts down a little. Some of them were not as tight as others.
I went back today and started the vehicle and it has the same problem again!
I took a look at the paper towel and it was totally dry! There is no coolant around the top of the spark plug well - only in the bottom of it. Where is this coolant even coming from? There are no coolant lines near cylinder #8. Is this a head gasket leak?
I have taken a look at the head gasket and that doesn't seem possible since the head gasket does not seal around the spark plug well at all as far as I can tell.
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Went to change the plugs on an 02 f350, the bolt holding the plug wire boot on doesn't seem to fit any standard size socket. 7 is too big, 6 is too small. 1/4 is too small, 9/32 is too big.
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2001 Ford F350 V10, 220K in crap condition
First of all on the left side 2 of the coils were so withered the rubber separated from the bolt and were loose. Without any tools I was able to remove 2 coils. Typically there is the hole and several inches inside hole is where the spark plug sits.
On cylinder 4 the spark plug is on a funny angle and is level with the hole or possibly poking up above the hole. Tried sticking the ignition coil over the spark plug but it wasn't correct. Leaving it alone until my cousin can take a look. Spark plug was tight but I didn't put a ratchet on it.
Wondering, is this the infamous spark plug blew threw the cylinder thing. Wish I would have taken a picture (I will next time I'm with truck).
Had codes for misfires on 4 cylinders but that was with 2 coils unplugged (way I got truck at auction)....I replaced 3 of them (1/2/6).Cleared codes...4th cylinder remained unplugged....And the only code I got after letting truck idle for 10 minutes was something about ignition coil D (which would line up with cylinder 4 I think).
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I need to tap a bigger hole and put in an insert for the spark plug. I can see that the piston is far enough down so that it won't get harmed from the process. But if I don't get the intake and exhaust valves shut, and then use compressed air to blow out what chips I can, and then I start the engine for a few seconds to blow out anything else (with the coil unplugged of course) will a few remaining chips, along with some that may have gotten blown into the intake, be a big problem? It's an aluminum head, so I can't see the chips doing much damage before they go out the exhaust or end up in the oil filter. But I am just guessing. I don't have the tool to test when all the valves are shut. Also, is it possible that a valve might be in the way and get damaged from the tap?
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I was checking my COPs and the first one I pulled out of my 2002 f150 5.4l had a clearish liquid on the coil boot. I looked down in the spark plug hole and it was filled almost to the top of the spark plug itself. I smelled it and it smelled like gas. Why this would happen and what should be done to fix it?
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Cold no start goes nowhere. I have a 2001 7.3 that will not start in the cold if I forget to plug it in....like last night. I have to plug in the block hater and give it a while before it will start. I tested the glow plug relay,it works fine. I can not find a test for the fuel bowl hear, and I'm not one to throw parts until I accidentally fix it. Any test procedure for the fuel bowl heater? Why this POS is so bad in the cold? Glow plugs tested fine at diesel shop in December, and this problem has been around since before that.
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My dad was changing his plugs today (2000 passat 1.8t) and he found some oil down in the holes for the plugs on the front two cylinders (closest to the front of the car) and also on the plugs themselves, and needless to say hes a little concerned. he doesn't think there should be any there. headgasket?? He has 105k miles...
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Bought a dealer demo last may. Truck has been wonderful. Had less the 1500 miles on it. Noticed when I was installing the lock on my tailgate that some of the plugs that cover up the holes in the plastic piece inside the tailgate were missing. Maybe some of the screws, not sure. Dunno if it's supposed to be that way or what. Just started to get a horrible feeling about it, Taft maybe something major happened. Any way to find out or round they have told me? Mebbe I'm over thinking this.
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My 2011 f250 has 92k miles, I want to change all 16 spark plugs.
Do the 6.2l plugs have problems breaking like the 3v engines did?
I think I'm going to pull the passenger fender liner to get to the lower plugs in the head.
How does the coil pigtail unclip? I looked at them briefly earlier and it looks like you pull the red tab back, then press down and pull on the pigtail but that did not work and I did not want to break anything.
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Did a tune up on 97 F250 5.8: plugs, wires, rotor button, cap. Truck ran after that, ran all next day and then shut off after sitting for about 30 minutes, had it towed home, put on new coil. Nothing. Found I have no spark. Have not replaced the distributor, have checked fuses that seem to make sense...all good. Self employed, very busy, so troubleshooting is a slow process right now, having to drive my F550 7.3, would really like my gas burner back.
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