Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - No Pressure When Idle?
Mar 26, 2013
Ok here's the problem me and my dad just rebuilt a 7.3 in a 2001 f 350 we got everything running the got about 200 miles on the rebuilt the one day the oil guage starts freaking out we have replaced the sensor, pulled the cooler to make sure the plug wasn't stuck. the gauge gas the pressure is fine when the engine is revved up but when it idles it says it has no pressure. what else to look for. The engine is a rebuilt 7.3 turbo with oversized pistons everything else is stock.
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I have a 2001 Ford F250 V10 with about 70,000 miles on it and now the gauge indicates low pressure when my warmed up truck idles around 1000 RPM.
I went off road the other day into some mud and since then I have had my oil pressure gauge reporting low at idle and normal when moving.
I was a quart and 1/2 low on oil which I filled and the next day I changed the oil. I then had taken it Ford shop who replaced the oil sensor and said all fixed. It wasn't and I took it back in ... now the mechanic indicated it is probably the crankshaft bearing based on his experience and I should replace the engine.
This seems drastic? Wouldnt' the next step to go check/replace the oil pump?
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I have a 2013 F550, v10. At idle, the oil pressure gauge drops and the red oil light comes on. If I hit the gas, the gauge pops back up. I swapped out the oil pressure switch. That didn't fix the problem.
I thought maybe the gauge was faulty, so I bought a 2 inch mechanical oil pressure gauge and hooked that up, leaving the factory gauge disconnected.
I watched the oil pressure start around 50 psi cold, and it slowly fell to 10-15 psi as it warmed up. The truck has 65k miles on it. There is no knocking, no ticking, no loss of performance.
I cannot imagine that at 65k miles, that it would be a worn engine. Right??
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I have a 2001 F-250 XLT 4x4 with V10. Truck will not start. No fuel pressure. My Haynes manual does not show ignition or fuel delivery wiring. I have found the relay box behind the radio/dash. I need a wiring diagram and info on which relay is the fuel pump relay. Want to know so I can jump relay to see if fuel pump is okay.
Truck had sat for a few weeks being ran very little, so had to jump start yesterday. Ran for about 15 min, the shut off, re-started and ran for 30 min. Truck sat for about 1.5 hours then would not start. Charged battery overnight and it is 100%.
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just bought a 01 f350 v10, 40,000 miles, plowing beast, anyways when taking off truck seems sluggish, give it more gas as its fine. At idle there appears to be a skip. There are no check engine lights on, could it be the coil pack or even maybe fuel problem? Have done plenty to this beast to get it close to perfect and this motor issue is it.
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2001 f250 v10 6.8l runs a little rough at idle, low rpm is ok between 1700 and 3000 rpm but around 3 it starts to shudder while driving let off gas get back on its fine, new plugs 1,000 miles ago has throttle body spacer and cold air intake, stock everything else..
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I have a 2001 f250 with the 5.4 I replaced the belt because of belt squeal and after replacing it the squeal is gone. now after the truck gets to its normal temp and I stop at a gas station for dip I will leave it running and when I come out it has this loud chirping noise it kinda sounds mechanical but it very well could be something on the belt drive. I am stumped it goes away after I start driving but I am kind of nervous about what it could be.
And the only time I hear it is while the truck is at normal temp and in park I have rolled the windows down and can not hear it while driving or at traffic lights. a part of me says it could be the fan clutch and now that it has a good belt on it I am hearing a sound of maybe the clutch going out or a pulley bearing starting to go out. Where I should go from here?
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2001 f350 v10, initial problem was when i came to stop at light it idled rough. I changed all plugs,injectors and COP, and bad connectors thereto. Changed the clock spring as well. Now the truck idles like crap at first start of of the day then run fine there after. Replaced IAC, TPS, Temp sensor. Condition getting worse and now the temp gauge does not work. I am thinking maybe CAT Converter loaded up?
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My '01 recently seized up and a buddy determined it was the AC pump. Replaced the belt with the bypass version. A month later, I moved across the state to Iowa. A couple weeks into living here I turned the truck on and it was idling really high (about 2500-3000) but would settle down to around 1100 when put in gear. However, shifting into gear is causing a progressively worse "jump" into gear. Hadn't really had the money or the time to take it in so I let it mostly sit unless I absolutely needed the truck.
Today, the idle is still high and does seem to cycle a bit in that it will rev up close to 3000 then settle back down around 2200 or so and then rev back up again and so on. I backed it down the drive into the sun for a little warmth and it darn near jumped a foot when I shifted. I turned the heater on defrost so I could clear the windshield and absolutely nothing came out.
I can't get into a garage for a few days to get it hooked up for diagnostics. So I thought I'd try here. My research leads me to think part of my problem may be a vacuum leak and/or maybe a sensor somewhere.
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2014 f250 - tires call for 75 fronts, 80 rears. I have been running 60 in all four corners for 6 of the 7 months I have owned the truck. Just turned 8000 miles and yesterday morning the low tire pressure light came on. Checked tires and all good. What might be happening?
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I am working on a 2003 7.3 truck that I am having trouble starting, but once it is started runs well. I have installed manual gauges to both the low and high pressure pumps. The low is running 40 at an idle and 50 at 2000 rpms. The high is running 500 at an idle and 1200 at 2000 rpms. The low doesn't show pressure while cranking. Would you say the low or high pressure pump is bad?
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I am updating my efforts at diagnosing this.... The antifreeze never seemed to lose any fluid..... The truck lost all oil pressure and after draining the oil, It seemed to have chunks of ice in the pan ! (not anti-freeze then right ? ) The oil was totally slimmed up like a milk shake...... I pulled the oil cooler and took it to a radiator shop who pressure tested it and said no good news>>> No leaks >>> no easy fix..... Is there any way snow or rain water can get past the intake manifold and into the valley? I got a snap-on SVT cooling system pressure tester. The system holds 10 lbs for man hour without loosing a pound, while running under pressure the gauge does not fluctuate (The truck runs GREAT sounds like a nascar). I just did a valve and chain job 2 seasons ago (think I do good work like I give a rip about my own stuff )I put the right stuff gasket sealer around all the water jacket port on the head gasket....... Is there any other way water can get in this thing ? I am going to change the oil again,add sea foam and start driving it...
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Went to leave for work this morning & got a "low tire pressure" warning...checked at work (isn't it always the last tire you check?), going to have to keep an eye on the left rear..was down to 45
with all the money we spend on these rigs, why can't put in a tpms system that would allow us to see WHICH tire is low?
Any aftermarket system that allows monitoring of INDIVIDUAL pressure? (ultimately, it'd be nice to get a 4 axle system that would "communicate" with the trucks (very basic) system, but also allow monitoring of my RV axles as well)
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Carb rebuild and tune-up on my 370 and took for a test run. All of a sudden oil pressure was lost. I know catastrophic happened but was conned into dropping oil pan and put in high volume oil pump. now at 2000 rpm I have enough oil pressure to keep rods and mains from rattling but lifters are collapsed. At idle oil pressure drops to zero. It is a mechanical oil gauge. I know the tune-up had nothing to do with it but I did drive the truck about an hour before. A machine shop said the only way he knows oil pressure can be lost like this is for a cam bearing to come out [catastrophic].
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Got a 2006 6.0 won't build turbo pressure had to previous codes a p0098 and a p0405 I replaced the egr valve and the mafs codes went away but still no boost
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My a/c compressor crapped out a summer or two ago. I ordered a new compressor and dryer, oiled up the compressor properly, hooked it all up, vacuumed out the system, filled it with fresh 134a and it worked just fine for about a year. Mid-late last summer, the a/c quit working, so I hooked up my gauges to check it out.
Everything reads in the proper range. The high side is only about 150, which isn't stellar, but not terrible either - certainly enough to cool things down. Anyways, when I was sitting at idle checking things out, my compressor was running all the time and not cycling on or off. Given that I was not overcharged (according to my HF gauges), I tried to add a little more to it. It would only take half a bottle and the compressor never started cycling on/off, so I stopped tinkering with it for a while to think on it. I noticed that when I had it on driving in town, I could hear the a/c kick on and off every couple seconds like it was still low, but my gauges didn't indicate that it was low and it wasn't taking a charge like it was low. This whole time, the air from the vents is not even cool - just straight outside air temp and the lines don't feel cold either.
I had hot-wired my compressor to stay on and same story. The gauges show it's compressing with the low side right where it's supposed to be and the high side a tad low at idle, but easily jumping up to within spec with mild revs. The whole time, the vents and a/c lines are no colder than ambient.
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I was driving down the highway and the truck was in overdrive and under a load passing at about 20lbs boost and all of the sudden I lost all power, felt truck shake a little. The tow/haul light is flashing and got only one code P0730. The truck won't go into gear in either forward or reverse now, had it towed home and put a pressure gauge on it and found about 100psi at idle In neutral, in reverse and forward I got strange readings the pressure goes way up momentarily then down to 100psi, and increments back up to over 500 psi and seems to stay there but neither forward or reverse engage. I have no clue what could be wrong at this point. I am attaching a video .....
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Ok, so I got this new Superduty that requires 80 psi in the rear tires and 70 psi in the front for 17" tires. What psi are you guys with similar vehicles using when driving around unloaded?
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Changing a fuel pressure regulator on one of these? I'm having an issue with it running really lean, like laying down with no power lean.I put the pressure gauge on it and I'm running an even 30 pounds at the rail. Changed the filter in hopes, but no change. Just changed the O2 sensors and they were both white.
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I have a few F-250's that have been having steering problems. and they all have the same symptoms.
When taking a long slow curve, the steering wheel will jump back like 6 inches, as if the pressure is going out. like say you had the vehicle turned to about 10 oclock, the wheel would go back and forth between 10 and 11. However, you do not loose much of your turning. It just has more pressure against your hand as if the power steering goes out.
You can also do it a standing stop. Only when you turn your wheel like say to 9, you can just use a finger to hold it there and it will bounce up and down? I have asked the local Dealership, and their answer was "there is something wrong with the power steering." couldn't get much more vague than that I guess.
I have looked for leaks, none. Checked struts, not bent. Checked tires, all brand new and balanced. Checked steering wheel mounts, all good to go... ???? Just lost...
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How to shut off the Low Tire Pressure message? My tires are at 65-70 pounds and the message still shows up at every start up.
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