Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - No Power Under Load Or Full Throttle
Sep 24, 2012
This has just started this past weekend out of no where.I went to accelerate up a hill and when it got to around 2500 rpms it just starts acting like a rev limiter kicks in.When i let off throttle it smooths out and runs fine, seems anytime its past quarter throttle it doesnt not want to move anywhere.If you drive normal in city conditions or on a nice flat round with barely any throttle it runs fine.I replaced the fuel filter no change, removed air filter no difference.Its actually at the shop now and they say its a transmission problem, my opinion i disagree fluid is up, no burning smell, and shifts fine under normal (slow) driving. 2001 Super duty 5.4 triton....
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I have a 2003 F250 SD with 130K miles. I primarily use it to pull a race car, about 5000 lbs is all. It has all the upgrades, from studs to EGR delete. Ford replaced the automatic transmission in 2005. I'm looking at a truck newer than 2011, but thinking either a flex fuel 250 or diesel. I want it loaded and 4WD, but they seem expensive.
Anyway, I have bad front wheel bearings. I know this because of the low rumble noise and how it acts when I rock the steering. How tough are they?? I build my entire race cars, so I have a well-equipped garage and some ability to cuss, but I don't have a lot of time. A buddy wants to do it for $300 total for both sides plus parts cost.
Also, this is the bad part I really need input on. It has a whining when at light throttle load and above 50-60 MPH. This seems to come from the floorboard area behind me. Gear changes do NOT affect the pitch, but a change in throttle crowding makes it louder and weaker. It has no coast down noise at all, and the noise pitch seems to track the drive shaft speed. It is a whine much like the low gear set in an automatic trans, but it does it in any gear with or without 4WD on. The only thing that affects the level is slightly pushing the accelerator, speed, or weight I am towing.
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I have a 2001 Ford F-250 5.4L V8. 117,000 miles. The problem I have been relentlessly trying to diagnose is a slight bucking that occurs under load when the truck is in overdrive. When the truck bumps up to higher RPM's it is fine but when it is around 1500-1700 RPMs on the highway it does a small buck like I'm hitting a bump in the road. I know there are many threads on this but none of them have gotten me any closer to a resolution. It also seems to have a bit of power loss when accelerating. Things I have done so far.
-Spark plugs and COP replaced about 1000 miles ago
-New fuel filter
-Cleaned MAF sensor
-Cleaned throttle body
-New PCV
-Seafoam treatment in gas and through brake booster.
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So I just got an 01 f250, 5.4. Really loving this truck so far. Noticed as I was driving my gas gauge is stuck at full. One time it randomly dropped down to about half tank where I think it should be, but it jumped back up to full. Anything to suggest trying? I tried nailing a speed bump to knock the float loose at 30 and I'm not sure if it worked. Gauge goes to E when I shut the truck off, but as soon as I turn it on it jumps up to full. Should I try hitting the tank with a mallet?
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I have a 99 350 sd 7.3 low power black smoke sets a p1211 under heavy throttle. Check icp on scanner under heavy throttle falls from 1900s to mid 1700s ipr duty cycle runs about 62% wanting to know if I am looking for a hpop problem or injector issue...
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My current truck is an early 99 F250, 7.3L diesel, CC 4x4(manual shift transaxle) auto transmission. It is basically stock, with the exception of a hutch/harpoon and a new fuel pump over the winter, an AIS intake. I have a magnaflow exhaust kit in the garage along with bellowed up pipes but have not installed them yet.
Here is my issue. Several times over the last 2 years, the truck will pull a load, or long trip, and with complete randomness, the engine will feel like it has shut off, there is usually a jerk or two, and the truck "restarts" itself and continues on like nothing happened. Last year we drove 1.5 hrs from home with the boat in tow, driving up Snoqualmie pass, and it died completely, no restart. We had to be towed home. It started right up at the shop, so no real clue of what happened.
When this happened, I had the fuel system checked for pressure and replaced the engine fuel filter, and all was good. I also had the Cam position sensor replaced/updated to the new grey sensor. Shortly after, I had the minor jerk/stall occur again, so I replaced the fuel pump and did the hutch/harpoon mod to ensure there wasn't an intermittent fuel pressure loss and that the in tank filters were not clogged.
Last weekend, i pulled my boat to Oregon, and the same "hiccup" happened as I was about 1.5 hrs into my trip. it was fine after that the rest of the 4 hr trip. We also drove back the same route and had no problems.
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50 V10... How to tell if the grumbling sound when under a load is the posi plates? If so, how to replace them.
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I have a 2008 powerstroke. Dpf and egr have been fully deleted. SCT tuner seems great and have had no issues since installed 6 months ago. I recently hooked up to my camper and headed up a mountain pass. As soon as I started uphill the engine overheated. I allowed it to cool and tried again with the same result. Eventually had to unhook and have another 6.4 (this one being a 2010) pull the trailer the rest of the way. Haven't had any heating issues since unhooking.
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So last week I installed a 6" lift and once we got it done I could barley turn right at all. So I decided to put a drop pitman arm on yesterday with a buddy, thinking that was the issue. But I still have the problem, and I very badly need to fix it and don't know what it is. Turning left is completely fine however. It feels like I'm trying to steer an 18 wheeler right now.
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I have a 99 f250 that seems like it has a bad coil, under a load it starts surging or bumping ( like it has in the past and I found a bad coil), I went through and unplugged each coil one by one while idling, couldn't find a bad one, so I bought a new coil and went through and rotated the coils, nothing worked, no check engine lights on.
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I have begun to notice a vibration when I am in first gear starting out with a bit of a load. The vibration goes away as I gain speed and the load reduces. None at any of the higher gears. If I take off real easy and allow the truck to gain speed without pushing it, the vibration does not exist. The truck is the one outlined in my signature. It is equipped with a 3 speed auto with overdrive. I am thinking this could be a U-Joint that might be starting to go out.
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Just bought a 1999 7.3 f250 w/71000 miles and took it to a diesel guy and under load he said that the whistling was normal..is this correct?
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2000 v10 f350 single tank...fuel gauge is stuck on full. I'm on the road so I don't have my drawings so I tried some quick troubleshooting. If I remember right 160k or so is full and 20k ohms is empty...so I unplugged the sender from the harness which should be open and the gauge should read empty. With key on its reading full. I then followed the harness and unplugged it near the brake booster...key on it reads full. Just wanted to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong before I rip the dash apart.
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I have a 2005 F350 6.0 with 4 wheel drive.
Late last winter, the 4WD stopped working. I diagnosed it to be a vacuum problem. Like a moron, I purchased a vacuum pump and threw it in there, I just figured that it was bad. It turns out the new pump I bought was bad, but the old pump was fine... Go figure. At any rate, when I switch to 4WD, my HVAC goes to full defrost and the 4WD does not engage.
I think I've narrowed the problem down to the 4WD actuator, since if I hook the vacuum pump output directly to the hubs, the 4WD works fine. If I switch it into 4WD, I can hear the vacuum releasing in the actuator, but it doesn't seem like any vacuum actually gets routed to the hubs. It just opens to atmosphere.
I've noticed that after switching to 4WD, the actuator only "Releases" the vacuum for a few seconds, and then seems to close itself. Is this normal? If I cycle the 4WD selector from 2WD to 4WD repeatedly, it will continue to cycle.
1. Is there any way to service this valve, or should I replace it?
2. Is the valve acting normally?
3. Am I on track with this repair?
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Buddy has '96 Dump Truck. I think it is an F650 but there a no markings. It is small as dump trucks go, but has air brakes and an automatic transmission.
The speedometer goes back and forth full scale as if a speedometer cable were bad. Problem with that is, my buddy says it has an electronic speedometer.
About the only thing I can think of that would cause that problem is the Vehicle Speed Sensor.
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I have a 2000 ford F 250 with V-10 engine with fuel gauge stuck. The problem started in the winter a couple years back on a cold night when I fueled the truck with it running. The fuel gauge never went down. I assume this would indicate a stuck float? I dropped the tank and noticed a loose yellow wire. I can't see that the wire was attached anywhere though? A V-10 is not the engine to be guessing with on fuel...
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About 20 miles into it, and it starts cutting out on me under load, over about 1/4 throttle. I baby it a ways further, and park at a wal-mart. Idles fine, but once again, after 1/4 runs like crap, acts like it's back firing through the intake spit and sputtering. Have the wife come pick me up since I was heading to work. Decided to shut it off, and restart, and it acts like its never had a problem.
Was messing with it today, and let it warm up in the driveway. Once it got hot, same story good 1/4 throttle, past that, not so much. Shut it off, started it back up and drove it to see if there's any codes at vatozone. Drove good (laying into the throttle) for about 2-3 minutes, back to same behavior. Hooked up code reader, no current codes, and no historic codes. Although I did notice (actually since I bought the truck) that the check engine light never comes on, even at initial start up. Looking at my spare cluster, it's an l.e.d. So no bulb out I guess unless the led is bad. Truck has around 130,000 miles on it. Everything is stock.
I'm leaning toward a fuel pump, a clogged cat, or a fuel pump relay or cutoff switch problem.. It doesn't have any other issues than that, and has been a good truck for the 10k miles I've owned it... 2003 F250 5.4...
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This is an early 99 f250 powerstroke 6spd manual 4wd, is it common or normal to hear a lot of transmission rattle at low rpm especially in lower gears under a load. Starting off from a dead stop it sounds awful until about 1500 rpm where it clears up (or load is reduced). I'm hoping it's just the power pulses going through splined shafts, gears, etc.
210k on the truck, just changed every fluid in it.
I've been a honda owner and mechanic for all of my driving years where shifting at 8500 rpm is common and now I'm having a hard time learning what this thing likes, rpm ranges to avoid, ect; even shifting I find difficult. At least you can heel toe with the pedal arrangement...
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I have a new to me 1999 f550 w/ 7.3 and I have installed an aluminum service body with a crane on the passenger side bins. The crane itself weights about 650lbs plus the steel frame it is mounted on (superstructure in the aluminum service body). I'm concerned about the uneven load on the rear suspension. It does sag slightly to the passenger side - guessing 1" - I will measure tomorrow.
1) Should I be concerned?
2) What can I do to correct it? (without just adding weight to counter balance it).
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I was having a ticking problem with the engine under load so I went ahead and did my manifold gaskets. I had a new 5.4 put in my 02 f350 last winter, and at that time I also installed gibson shorty headers. The tech had to plug the egr port with a pipe plug. But any ways, I pulled the headers last month and I used Percy's aluminum header gaskets. I also took the time to wire wheel all of the flanges and the mating surfaces. The one on the ball and socket flange was leaking on the passenger side, so I permanently sealed it with some 1800* epoxy.
The leak seemingly went away for a week or so, but it has returned. I sprayed down all of the mating surfaces with soapy water, but I can't find the leak. It only happens when accelerating or when i downshift to go uphill. So, at my wits end, I went to try and retorque my spark plugs. I've done half of them so far. Haven't driven it yet, but i was curious as to others thoughts on the subject. This leak cannot be heard at idle, nor at any RPM while in park or neutral. It is only apparent when driving. Definitely sounds like an exhaust leak to me.
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My current 08 duty was bought with what I believe to be a procomp 6" lift modified to an 8" lift. The 100 mile drive home after buying the truck showed a tiny "hop" in the rear. I ditched the 37s for some new 35s. Still a tiny hop, mostly noticeable while under a load like climbing a hill. I pulled the rear driveshaft and had it fully rebuilt with a new carrier bearing as well. Still gots the hop? The truck has a carrier bearing drop bracket but I think it may be insufficient for the lift.
The rear driveshaft still has a slight bend in the middle of where the two driveshaft pieces connect. Are the 2 piece driveshafts on your 8" lifted trucks sitting straight with each other or do they have this bend as well?? I am thinking if I get a bigger drop bracket it may cure this slight hop I have? Lots of lifted trucks where I live but they are dam near all shortbox with 1 piece rear shafts so I haven't been able to find one to compare. By the way, my truck also has pro comp rear traction bars..
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