Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - Loud Howling Noise And Reduced Performance
Sep 19, 2016
I have a 2010 6.4L turbo diesel. Without a trailer on a mtn incline I have no issues. She will fly up the hill and she is quiet when I'm not pulling the 10,000 Lb trailer. When pulling the trailer, I have a loud howling noise and reduced performance. I had it at the Dealership and I had them check the engine/turbo and they found no problems? I asked if they tested under load and they said yes?? Someone suggested that the "Waste gate valve" was defective.
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2004 F250, I am getting this howling noise when applying the brakes. It sounds like it is from the left front and is more prevalent when applying the brakes down an incline (off ramp, etc) I pulled the wheels off and the pads were probably 50-60% worn. I bought some new pads and installed them and I still get the same noise. I didn't buy the cheap pads, nor the most expensive either. Either way, I can't figure it out. Would I need new rotors? I would think I would have some vibration if the rotors were warped. My other thought was the caliper, but when I replaced the pads it compressed fine and I lubed the slide rails. Not sure what to do at this point. The truck has 94,000 miles on it, FX4, Lariat, Crew Cab, and it has the 5.4L in it.
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Have a Howling coming from my single gas tank, truck was sputtering now and then. Yesterday it died and would not start. Towed it home and then it started. Think its the fuel pump, Is it tough to change.... 2005 F250 Super Duty109K Miles...
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My truck had devolped a whine/howl over the past coulple hundred miles. I thought it was a wheel bearing failing me. So yesterday I pulled it into the shop and jacked up the front end. Everthing checked out fine so I jacked up the rear end, started it up, put it in gear and to my surprise the noise was from the rear end.
I pulled the rear end apart and found the front pinion bearing had a defect in the race and the rollers were starting to pit out causing the noise and harshness when turning it. The truck has 130k, seal wasnt leaking and fluid looked/smelled normal. I think it was a legitimate defect not from abuse or lack of maintenance.
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I have a really loud whining kind of noise found that its the wheel seal rubbing on the inner part of the wheel bearing. I was just curious if its safe to drive with the spindle removed from the axle?
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I have this howling sound in the back that is like heavy tread tires. But thats not what it is. Had to have some work done at a shop (no choice) and they noted on the receipt a "horrible noise".
This is any speed, accelerating and decelerating and coasting in neutral. I checked the fluid in the diff, it is filled to the hole, has good color, smells ok, and no metal on plug. The carrier bearing appears bulged out in one area but the shaft is tight. There is no unusual vibration. The shop did say that I need rotors in the rear.
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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I have a 2008 6.4 powerstoke with 162,000 miles. It went into reduced engine power , so i had a sct x4 tuner with cold air intake and dpf delete installed. i just picked it up and it is smoking at initial start up. Is this somewhat normal...
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I just picked up a 2012 F350 lariat with about 65 000 miles on it, and while driving home, it popped up with reduced engine power on my screen. Tried adding DEF fluid, seems to right up to the top already, no actual change in engine performance either. Also, no check engine light or service light on (wrench light)....never run across this before and am totally thrown off. Haven't taken to dealer yet...
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I have a 2015 SRW f350 and has been fairly problem free. Last Thursday I was driving home and I received the reduced engine power and code popped up P0088, high pressure fuel rail issue.. anyway, I just popped over 36k miles, the truck is at 36,278 miles, so I take it in thinking they will goodwill it.
I get a call saying they can't clear the code and the TCM AND PCM can't communicate and they have to reach out to Ford engineering. They find the PCM is corrupt, they call me twice and ask if the truck has been tuned, the answer is no, but then pin me against the wall saying I am the second owner, which I am, and that it could have been tuned prior. I tell them to prove it, you can see if there has been a tune. The truck truly has never been tuned, it was sold at Ford factory auction as a employee vehicle.
Now they are trying to tell me the corruption was due to the tune, which it never had. But they won't goodwill it and say I am responsible for all the diag and work done, I say no. I say this should be a warranty issue and should be covered, they say it was tuned, I told them to prove it.
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I have a 2004 5.4 power f350 that makes a fog horn pitched howling sound at idle. First instinct was a pulley. Started it with belt off and its obviously something else because it still made noise. Traced it down to a resonating sound from the intake. Specifically the hose from the IAC to the air cleaner.
From some googling, i decided to change the IAC. No real change. So I took off the resonator tube and thoroughly cleaned it, took off the throttle body and cleaned it, took off the top snout part of the intake and cleaned that put in a new air cleaner (the glue was separating on the old one) and reset the battery. Still makes noise at least 85 percent as loud as when i started. Am I missing something?
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I have a 99 f250 4x4 super duty. Just started getting a loud squealing noise off and on in the front end. Changed the ujoints and axle seals on both sides. They where all in bad shape. It still makes the noise off and on while in 2wd. If I lock the hubs in it doesn't. What it could be ?
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I was driving and i was doing about 60 65 and i hit a bump and i heard a loud rattle and it shock the hell out of me then it just stop...
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We were using my 2001 7.3 4x4 (automatic, manual lock outs) in 4 low yesterday on dry pavement in an attempt to pull out the remainder of a 6x6 post in concrete. We were working her pretty hard alternating directions of pulling. At one point we heard a loud bang (see also: thud; pop; etc). It seemed at that point that the front axle was no longer functioning in 4wd. We still had the low gearing feel, but at one point I noticed my rear tires trying to slip on the driveway, but fronts didn't appear to be pulling anymore.
Long story short, came in, went to bed, went out this morning and thought I'd jack up the front end and roll the tires in both 'free' and 'lock' to see if the universal joints (yokes?) behind each wheel were spinning or not, depending on whether free or locked in. I noticed on the passenger side a few drops of a clear/light colored fluid that had dripped from behind the dust cover that isn't functioning any longer. The joints worked as they should, based on if it was locked in or not.
I decided to go ahead and put the back axle on jackstands as well and see how it was working when "driving". When in 2wd, rear worked, front was stationary, as it should be. when in 4high, rear spun, front driver spun erratically, nothing from passenger front (where I had seen drip). 4low was same thing - erratic on driver side, at best.
So I know I have front axle/transfer case issues. The question is, with the drip (smells like grease, so I'm assuming its gear oil?) would I be safe to drive it a few days with hubs in free position? I don't want all of the fluid leaking out when I'm driving down the road. I use the truck for work and wouldn't be able to be without it until later in the week or next week. But I also don't want to drive it if it will just make my predicament worse.
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I recently picked up a 2005 f250 SD 5.4 4x4... I was having issues with sporadic shifting and wandering shifts while cruising around 100kph, scanned it and came up with p0721 OSS sensor circuit performance fault.
I checked the harness and all looks fine, now I attempted to remove the OSS at the rear of the tranny, got the 8mm bolt out however could not, for the life of me get the sensor out. I tried not to use pliers to twist the sensor or anything for fear of breaking the sensor off and having bits go into the transmission.
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I have an '08 F250 w/ a 6.4. A couple days ago I started getting a loud squeaking when I turn to the right. It only does it under speed, almost like it needs the weight transfer to make the sound. In addition it's only when I turn at a like 45 deg angle, I can turn less or more to make it stop. But it has gotten louder and louder.
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I have a 2004 PSD with 85k miles. The engine fan is all of a sudden loud. You can clearly hear the fan pushing air and it's noise is relative to the engine RPM. I've had this truck since it was brand new and have never heard the fan blades unless I had my head in the engine compartment. Is the fan supposed to turn relative to the engine RPM or is there something wrong? Either way it's now all of a sudden super loud.
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uper Duty 6.2L ... Alright, the loud cam phaser or fuel injector noise/tap..Is this just a cold weather issue or is this going to be like this all the time under start up? Mine was quiet until now (1200 miles) now under cold start loud knock/tap sound. Seemed to go away when truck warmed up and was idling. Was or Is there any fix to this noise.
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I have a 2004 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel, egr delete, headstuds, intake, dual stacks, etc and when i turn my wheel a loud whining noise comes from under the hood, I noticed it put tension in my brakes. When I accelerate it gets louder and when i let off the gas it goes away... i checked my fluid in my steering pump and it was low so i put some more in and the next day it was all sitting under neath the truck.... any quick fix or do i need to replace the whole pump?
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I took my truck to an alignment shop to have him look over my truck to find a steering wheel jerk and a loud clunk noise. He believes it's in the transfer case driveline. Said to remove the driveline then drive it around and see if it goes away, if it does then that's the problem. So to the question, how to properly take this out? Do I need to make marks with a paint pen anywhere to line things back up or does it matter?
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I drive a 2000 F250 5.4L. Currently has about 168,000 miles on it. I changed the oil the other day and cleaned the air filter. I used what I usually use on the oil change which has never been a problem. But this is first time to clean the K&N filter. A day or so later my engine is making a loud air rushing noise. Under throttle the engine compartment sounds like a wind tunnel. At 3500ish rpms it makes a harsh whistle noise. The air rushing noise doesn't go away once its warmed up or after the engine has been cool. Noise didn't go away with the filter being taken off either.
Could all of this be caused by cleaning and not using k&n air filter oil (but rather WD40 upon Dad's suggestion)? Or is there something else going on?
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