Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - Headlights Blink Off / Low Beams Stay On With Highs On
May 21, 2016
I have a 2001 F53 chassis Coachmen Mirada. My low beams, and only the low beams, blink off and back on ea. 2 seconds, and the low beams stay on with highs on. I have confirmed with a friend who has the identical model that the lows should go off. The dip is momentary and happens regardless of anything else. The highs don't blink and do go off when they should.
The headlight switch seems to work normally. The multi function switch does turn the highs on and off as it should. Both sides behave the same. The Daylight running lights are separate and work fine. The high and lows are 2 different bulbs. Where do you think I should start checking? With previous cars I was led to believe that a headlight that goes off meant a breaker being tripped due to a short or bad breaker. I can't find a breaker to check.
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I just had some custom headlights built for my truck. I have noticed if I am on low beam with fogs on, switch to high fogs go off, switch back to low, and fogs come on but highs stay engaged until I turn off fogs, the go low beam... I have heard this has happened before with other trucks and that it was called a Bambi something? And that there was a possible fix...
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This is my first post on this forum. I have a 2014 F350 standard fleet truck. The headlights are not day time running lights. The headlight switch is the basic off/parking light/on. The headlights come on as soon as you start the
truck. This just started happening about a month ago. When you shut off the truck the headlights stay on for ten minutes. I scanned the truck with a snap on modis. I got into the lighting module and the "command on" is on. The modis would not give me the option to turn it off. Short of taking the truck out of service for a day to go to the dealer. Is there any other fix I can do?
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i have a 2002 f250 i drove it lat night parked it came home from work at about 3 and noticed my head lights were on and just headlights. I open the door and see that the switch is in the off position too. WEIRD HUH ? they wont go off. I tried to unplug the switch and nothing.
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Walk out to my 02 f250sd this afternoon after it sat for 9 hours while I was working... the lights are on... look inside and the light switch is in the off position... Open the door and it smells like burning wires. Car cranks without a problem but lights will not go off. Unplugged light switch and still lights are on. Open fuse box and all fuses look good none of the relays are hot. Reach around to back of fuse box and almost burn my fingers. Remove 4 screws that hold box in place and look around back. Unplug the wires going into fuse box and see that one is melted and it appears it is melted inside the fuse compartment itself. What might be going on inside this black box?
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I bought an hid kit for my 2005 f250 the dog lights work fine but the headlights won't stay on. They come on for about 30 seconds then shut off. How to fix this. I've swapped the ballast with the fog light ballast and it does the same thing.
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My truck only has low beams. When you move the stalk on the colum backwords it changes nothing, when you move it forwards the low beams go out but the high beams do not come on.
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I have an 2001 F250 SD with 7.3 Diesel. Headlight switch failed and I replaced it. But now I have no high beams and my dash lights that light the dash up don't work. Gauges, fog light, low beams all work fine. Fuses checked. Multi function switch checked. What to do next?
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I bought a new Motorcraft door latch for my F550 because the door latch won't stay latched. You close the door firm and it seats well then pops loose the first bump in the road. I found all kinds of OEM replacment latches all over the internet but nowhere can I find any instructions or videos or any talk of the best way to go about replacing the door latch. I know they wear out from constant use on the drivers side.
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I just replaced the head lights on my 2001 f250 it had the sealed beam one-piece glass headlights and I replaced those with regular headlights and when I went to get bulbs I found out after I get home the connector is different from the new bulbs. the new bulbs fit correctly but I can not hook plug them the plug has 3 connectors that have two connectors level and one is higher than the other two and the new bulbs the three prongs are level.
My question is. is there another bulb that will fit and plugin and if so what is the part number? is there a adapter that I can get that will allow the factory plug to work? or will I need to cut the old plug off and splice a new connector on?
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I've got a 2006 F250 5.4l. Recently Ive had an issue when I am driving, usually when the engine is at 3k+ RPMs, where the engine will lose power and the cel with blink. Usually it only takes a few seconds for the blinking to stop and the engine continues as normal. Now, I know that at least one of my exhaust manifolds are leaking.
Could it be that the engine is not receiving enough back pressure and that is causing it to lose power? I had a similar issue last year, basically the same symptoms, and it turned out that I had two cylinders misfiring. I replaced the coil packs and that fixed it. This time there are no codes referring to a cylinder misfire. There is a code for EVAP leak (I think), but I was told it was nothing to worry about.
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I have bought here recently a 1999 F250 Superduty 4x4 with the 7.3l and my problem is my low beam headlights do not work. My high beams and park lights work but low beams do not. I have replaced the MFS and have checked all fuses and wiring and everything checks out. I can not for the life of me find any diagrams on this truck. I have power coming off of my headlight switch and going into the MFS but I do not have power coming out on the low beam circuit. Am I missing something. Really frustrated right now and I can't drive the truck or get plates on it. Also when I flip onto high beam both low beam circuit and high beam circuit coming out of the MFS light up.
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I have a 2012 F-250...per DOT specs, the fog lights go out with hi-beams on. However, in my opinion, the high beams on my truck are among the worst I've seen. Low beams are OK. Is there some easy mod to keep the fogs on with the brights?
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A good while back I seen a thread to do this , but can't locate it now. I have a 2012 F250 and looking to make my night time driving better ....... I want to run both low and high beams at the same time and getting the fog lamps to stay on when going from low to high beam.
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My batteries drained twice and now I prob. need new ones but with the key off I can turn the blower on any speed and the passenger airbag light blinks. I hear the clicking from a relay under the dash when I do this. I have checked for leaks in the windshield and found none . The fuse box and the GEM are completely dry. My ignition switch will pull out with the key in it . I noticed this just the past few weeks . Now yesterday my odometer speedometer quit. It did pull a code for this. Maybe it is connected maybe not . My odl light is flashing but still works. My cruise doesn't but I realize it is connected to speedometer.
2000 F350 supercab diesel....
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I have a 2006 F-250 Super Duty (6 liter diesel). The high beams stay on unless I pull the fuse (fuse 30). It doesn't matter what position the headlight switch is in. It is like the high beam flash on the multi-function switch is stuck. It feels fine, but high beams stay on regardless of position, even with the truck off. The low beams (if in low beam when the truck is shut off) do go out as do the running lights after 15 or so seconds (normal) it's just the high beams. Also the high beam indicator light is on all the time (until I pull the fuse) and the fog lights will not come on until I pull the fuse. Should I replace the multifunction switch or look elsewhere?
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My issue is not with the truck starting its with it staying running. I had plugged in all the night prior and all day while at work. When my shift was over went out started fine let it run for about 20 minutes and left to make my way home. During the trip it ran fine for about 1/2 a mile and then it started idling really rough at a stop light went to go threw the light and it as though I had left it out all night with plugging it in. I went to turn on a side street because this situation was not going to end well and it died trying to turn. It would not start back up I was able to get a jump and made another 1/4 of a mile and it died right in front of my house. I replaced both the batteries this morning and it fired right up lasted about a minute and then died again. All the gauge read fine, oil level is good, and the injectors were replaced 2 years ago.
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I was thinking my AC clutch has too much gap and was gonna do the "fix it" listed in another thread. However, my clutch wouldn't engage like it states needs to be done. The only time my AC blows cold is when it's cold/cooler outside OR I rev up the RPM's but it hardly stays engaged. I had a friend do a few diagnostics on it, with a paper clip (assuming he did it right) he feels my clutch is bad. But I've read the clutch is either good or bad, works or doesn't work, no in between.
Next, it doesn't seem to blow as hard as it used to. I replaced the blower motor last summer, but even before that, it seemed to not blow very hard. If I have it on low, it's very hard to feel it. With a crew cab and 2 little boys seated in the back, they often end up sweaty and miserable, no matter how far we go. I've read the orifice tube might need to be replaced, or something needs to be cleaned cuz it's dirty or clogged like the orifice tube. But I can't remember what.
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Yesterday jump in truck head out and when I go to use right (passenger) blinker and it doesn't stay on. Left side works fine. It will stay on if held but on it's own it blinks like 4 times then shuts off.
Side note not sure if connected but a couple days before was using wipers and when I shut them off it was still like it was on intermittent. It happened a couple times but seems fine now, but then with the blinker I am wondering if it is something in there.
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When I parked my truck at work this morning, I pushed the parking brake pedal down like always, but it popped back up. I didn't pop all the way back up, it stayed down about 1/4 of the way. Several tries yielded the same results.
Since I'm at work, I didn't have any time to crawl under there are investigate. I'll do so tonight when I get home, or maybe tomorrow. Kinda sounds like the locking "teeth" mechanism may be misaligned?? Since it doesn't come all the way back up, I'm hoping the mechanism isn't totally broken.
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Got a 99 F450 7.3 with 190k miles, started acting sluggish. When cold, it wouldn't stay running, almost as if out of fuel. Would stall out when you pressed and released the accelerator but would idle fine. Now, it won't even stay running. Still acts like it's out of fuel. Changed the air filter, fuel filter, and added injector cleaner and conditioner. What else could it be? after warming up when shifting gears and letting off throttle it stalls and when restarted lets off blueish white smoke.
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