I have a 2001 f250 with factory fog lights. ive been researching to see if I can make my fog lights turn on with the high beams without pulling them out. My broke and cant pull it or it comes off, but will still work to turn head lights off and on. How to make them come on with the high beams?
View 14 RepliesAll you need to do is pull out the head lite switch find the solid brown wire that is the running lights wire now find the yellow wire this is fog lights wire (these wires are on the gray plug ) you need a 3" piece of wire and 2 blue wire connectors it slips over the wires no cutting any wires then slide wire in the other end of the blue connector after you jump them your fog lights will come on with running lights and will not go off with high beams...
View 4 RepliesI have an 2001 F250 SD with 7.3 Diesel. Headlight switch failed and I replaced it. But now I have no high beams and my dash lights that light the dash up don't work. Gauges, fog light, low beams all work fine. Fuses checked. Multi function switch checked. What to do next?
View 1 RepliesWhat color wire controls the high beams?
View 1 RepliesI was cruising my truck down the road and noticed that my high beam indicator light was very dimly lit. I wondered why this would all of the sudden come on at all if the high beams were not on so I pulled over and took a walk to the front of my truck to check my headlights. Sure enough the passenger light was very dim. (I must assume the high beam indicator light being dimly lit is also an indicator for headlight malfunction/burn out)
I figured out the plug has a keeper piece that is supposed to hold it in the bulb base but it was broken off and missing.
I went to the auto parts store to find some kind of fix. To my surprise they have a replacement plug for my truck. The down side is it costs $95 and it still had to be shipped! I decided I could figure something else out.
After I pulled the four 5.5 millimeter screws out of the headlight housing. I noticed there is enough room on either side of the light contacts to drill a hole thru the plug and the bulb to allow a pin to be placed thru both of them which would keep the plug and bulb socket from coming apart.
These are the pins or keepers I used.
A 1/16" drill bit did the job. I put the new bulb/socket and the plug together and drilled a hole on each side of the plug right thru the socket at the same time far enough back and at a width to avoid the contacts of the bulb socket and plug. (there is a rubber gasket in the plug that should be avoided but if you still knick it as I did you can fill the plug or the socket with dielectric grease that most car parts stores have and it will keep any moisture out but not effect the electrical current, do not use silicone, one day you will have to take it back apart for a bulb replacement or something.)
This is the bulb socket with the holes already drilled and the plug removed. This is what it looks like with the bulb/socket and the plug together and the keepers in place. And the back of the composite headlight housing with the assembly installed.
Make sure you install the bulb/socket and plug with keepers on the housing before you bolt the housing to the truck because there is not enough room to get your hands behind the housing to install the keepers with the housing bolted to the truck.
Since I replaced the stock bulb with a Sylvania Silver star I had to replace the driver side too so I didn't end up with a headlight being brighter or "whiter" than the other. Even though I was incredibly careful I still broke the plug on the driver side too! So now both of my headlights now have this mod on them.
A good while back I seen a thread to do this , but can't locate it now. I have a 2012 F250 and looking to make my night time driving better ....... I want to run both low and high beams at the same time and getting the fog lamps to stay on when going from low to high beam.
View 14 RepliesI'm having an issue with my 2001 F350 V10. A seriously annoying high pitched whining noise appeared a while ago, then disappeared, and has now come back.
It happens as soon as I start my truck, whether it's cold or warmed up already. it increases in pitch and loudness as I increase RPM, it also does exactly the same in neutral. As soon as I put it in gear (R, D, 2, 1) it completely disappears and will come back as soon as I shift back to P or N. Strangely, if I drive around town for a few minutes, when I get back home and shift to park the sound doesn't really come back, sometimes it will be faint but usually it's totally gone. But if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on again then it's there again.
It's coming from somewhere in the engine compartment or close but due to the nature of the sound it's very difficult to locate. I got underneath using a screwdriver as a stethoscope and listened to the transmission, transfer case, starter, oil pan and even the gastank and it doesn't sound like it's coming directly from any of them. While underneath I noticed power steering fluid leaking from the pump behind the pulley and dripping off the hose. Somehow though I don't think it's related as the sound disappears in gear and doesn't change at all when turning the wheels. I cleaned the fluid off and drove around a bit and it doesn't seem to be leaking too badly and my reservoir is totally full.
The truck otherwise is driving as good as it always has and whatever this sound is doesn't seem to be having any effect on performance (yet...) ...
My '01 recently seized up and a buddy determined it was the AC pump. Replaced the belt with the bypass version. A month later, I moved across the state to Iowa. A couple weeks into living here I turned the truck on and it was idling really high (about 2500-3000) but would settle down to around 1100 when put in gear. However, shifting into gear is causing a progressively worse "jump" into gear. Hadn't really had the money or the time to take it in so I let it mostly sit unless I absolutely needed the truck.
Today, the idle is still high and does seem to cycle a bit in that it will rev up close to 3000 then settle back down around 2200 or so and then rev back up again and so on. I backed it down the drive into the sun for a little warmth and it darn near jumped a foot when I shifted. I turned the heater on defrost so I could clear the windshield and absolutely nothing came out.
I can't get into a garage for a few days to get it hooked up for diagnostics. So I thought I'd try here. My research leads me to think part of my problem may be a vacuum leak and/or maybe a sensor somewhere.
Iv been chasing an electrical issue with my park lights staying on. Even with the #8 fuse out and the GEM unplugged the lights stay on.
They are being powered by the #4 fuse circuit that power mirrors, glove box light and under hood light are on. With that fuse pulled the park lights go off.
Now I have to figure out how the 2 circuits are connected.
I just picked up a 2001 Ford F350 4x4 7.3 SRW last week. I've been slowly going through the truck replacing everything. One thing I've always liked on trucks is the cab clearance lights, which this one doesn't have (it's a base XLT with no options).
So I looked on Amazon and ended up ordering this....
But then I realized that the harness isn't included, and I can't find it for sale anywhere. I searched the Ford parts site but can't seem to find it.
I'm thinking about returning those lights and getting this set: [URL] .... But I'm not 100% sure that the harness that's included will fit my truck, it only says Ford.
Thought I'd ask a quick question here...
Is the lens on OEM fog lights removeable? Mine is fogged up and discolored, so was wondering if the unit comes apart where I can clean & reseal ?
Or just buy a new set ?
Just got a 2001 F-250 Super Duty (crew cab, long bed, 4x4, 7.3L turbo diesel) and have been going through and fixing a lot of little issues. The one that now has me stumped is the interior lighting circuit (which is also the bed light). Here's what I've got so far:
Map/reading lights work, but dome lights do not (neither automatically nor when turning them on via the dimmer switch). Verified all fuses in the PDC as well as the interior fuse panel (behind the driver side knee panel). The interior lighting relay was missing, so I purchased and installed it.
Relay #1 (interior lighting), fuse #4, and fuse #14 are all good - when I pull the fuse with the door open, the relay clicks (and clicks again upon reinstalling the fuse). With the doors closed, the relay clicks when activating the interior lights via the dimmer switch.
The LT GRN/YEL wire is hot, and all related accessories work (map lights, engine bay light, etc).
The BLK/LT BLU wire is not receiving power from the relay from what I can tell.
Before I start trying to pull out the fuse panel to start checking connectivity, anything else to check? The ground at the rear driver corner of the cab is good, and a visual check of the harness running down the driver side of the cab has no visible signs of damage.
Also, given that the relay is audibly actuating the way it should, I'm guessing that the GEM can be ruled out as a possible cause? My next step will be to get a pinout diagram for the relay and crimp a quick jumper to see whether or not it's simply a defective relay... But I doubt it's the case.
I have a 2001 f250 v10 lariat ext cab. i was going to get wood the other day down a muddy road. My radio went out and all my running lights. i replaced the fuse radio and now the switch. Still nothing. Could it be a bad ground? i ran a jumper wire on my old switch and they worked then just stopped again. if it is a bad ground where would it be located.
View 3 RepliesI have a 99XL F350 that came with the Aero headlights. I would like to switch to the sealed beams. What are the parts and pieces I would need to make this switch?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 F350 and instrument cluster lights will not work. Fuses are good and the gauges still work just not the lights.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 f-250 that has dome lights that work on occasion. Mostly don't work. The inside dash dimmer won't turn them on. And they will sometimes work with the rear doors opening. Not the front(4 doors). The cargo light comes on all the time. So I don't know where to start chasing.
View 9 RepliesDrove to work had no issues, went to leave & noticed that the dash lights didn't light as normal when I turned the key over, then tried to start but it just cranked, checked the fuses all good under the dash & hood.
View 1 RepliesI just had my pass side head lite burn out.....or at least I thought? I replaced the bulb twice......not touching either 1 with my fingures.......and I have no low beam on that side? Only hi beam on the pass side? All my fuses are good, and I even unhooked all my plow harness.
View 4 RepliesWas working on a friends 06 F-250 and was trying to wire in some plow headlights. I must have shorted something out and the Passenger side low beam doesn't work. The high beam works and the drivers side high and low work. The fuse under the dash is good. From looking around, is it possible that the multi function switch on the column got shorted out? Any way I can test? Any other things I can check?
View 13 RepliesI just bought a 2004 f-250 checked everything out except for the headlights ... when I tried them the didn't work except on flash to pass ... I searched around and found some possible solutions and tried them .... first I checked the bulbs and all the fuss they are good then I bought a headlight switch ....that fixed the problem for about two days then they quit working again... so I took it back and got a new one ... when I first put it the new one in it didn't work then it started working a day or so later and I hadn't done anything to make it work... then a couple days later it went out again ... I have swapped the switch out several times and have had no luck I replaced the multi function switch and still no low beams ...
All the fuses are still good I have checked the wiring visually as much as I can see and see nothing... buddy of mine checked the pins on the headlight switch connector they are all good .. Read something last night about a guy whos alternator was going bad and caused his not to work checked mine its putting out around 13.4 at idle .. is there a relay somewhere ... my book doesn't show the function of any of the relays so I don't know ...not a mechanic but a pretty decent parts changer. Trying to fix this myself . Next week have to take the truck to pull the camper ..
I am having overheating problems at high speed/high rpm/under load. The only codes ive gotten are EGR dpfe (0401). Truck is 99 f250 with the 6.8 new egr valve, dpfe, new coolant, new thermo, new sensor under manifold. I blew 90 lbs air pressure thru the egr lines, big and small, they were clear.
So whats left? I never hear my fan clutch......should I? I've had other trucks and the fan roared when first started for a few seconds, and then again when you were hot...they really roared.
Is it possible for the egr port where it goes into the throttle body to be plugged? guess I should've checked that when I had the egr off. Would an aux. fan be a waste of time?
This is pulling a 3500 lb camper trailer up moderate hills.