Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F450 - Chime Begins To Sound As Soon As The Truck Starts To Roll When Started?
Apr 24, 2015
2001 F450/6.8 gasser. Auto trans. This strange thing just appeared from nowhere. Start the truck, put it gear. As soon as the truck starts to roll, the chime begins to sound. If I continue on, it'll beep 80 or 90 times before stopping. As soon as brakes are applied and the wheels stop turning, chime disappears. Happens in forward or reverse. No lights appear in the cluster. A check with an Actron scanner shows no codes or MIL. Seat belts are buckled.
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I recently bought a 2001 f-350 xl 4 door with the 8 foot box it has the 5.4L triton v8. I was heading to a job up in northern Alberta about 10 hours away from where I live. On the drive I lost control of the truck on some black ice I was doing about 50 miles I went into the ditch but nothing crazy drove right out after. Now my truck won't do over 30 mph the engine starts to sputter and back fire I loose all my power, what's going on. At idle she revs fine but as soon as I put her into drive it's like she wants to die what can it be?
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I have a 2014 F 450 and today one of my trailers will not engaged the brakes and it is saying on the display that there is no trailer connected. I cannot engage the brakes manually with switch.
I have running lights, I have brake lights I have hazards lights and turn signals. The brakeaway switch is not engaging the brakes when removed, I hooked up to another trailer of mine and it recognized and acknowledged being hooked to a trailer.
So... I know it is something with the trailer but what wire I should be looking at on the trailer?
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I have a 99 f450 and the od light flashes when the truck is in low range. I have to shut the truck off when I put it back in high range to get it to stop. It won't flash again till I use low range again. whats going on?
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I am working on a 2006 f450 6.0l. My problem is when I take key out of the ignition the power stays on in truck. Radio stays on and windows. I swapped out relays checked door jam switch I am stuck. Looking for wiring diagrams so I can trace the wire.
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2001 F450/6.8. The trim ring is missing on the shift lever switch and the switch doesn't seem to light up or take the truck out of overdrive when pressed. Truck shifts just fine in all other aspects. Fuses all appear to be good.
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I have a 2003 Ford F450 super duty xl. At first there was a loud clicking sound coming from under my dash. I charged the battery up and the sound went away but the truck will fire up but not turn over and start. I thought maybe it could be the relays but the clicking sound quit.
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I have 2009 F-450 6.4L Diesel with 41K miles and just started to have a noise that can be heard up in the CAB of the truck while driving or idling. It sounds like a dry ball bearing that would go bad in home computer AC power supply or CPU cooling fan. The sound starts when the engine is at full operating temperature and most noticeable and the loudest if you are standing in front of the engine at idle outside.
Checked all fluids and they are normal. Turning the steering wheel doesn't affect the sound either or turning off the AC. Check engine light has not come on. The only thing I have noticed is that clutch fan stays on a very long time after starting cold and takes about a mile or two before it disengages. The truck is only used to tow a 36' 5th wheel and sits the majority of the time.
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My 01 450 V-10 dump truck had intermittent clutch petal problem. Petal would not return all the way. Had to pull it up then it worked ok for a while. Now it only works occasionally. Could it be the disk is collapsing or the master or slave? Any good how to video for replacement?
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Simple enough the truck starts then after about 30 seconds it bogs down and dies. I am getting these codes.
705 Transmission Range Sensor Out of Position
708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
720 Output Speed Sensor Insufficient Input
743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit
745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
1747 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid A- Short Circuit
Sounds to me like the converter it locked up. What do you think? Its a 5.4L
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2005 F-350 6L diesel .... Put new batteries in it a week ago.
Been running good then the radio quit a couple of times. It came back on after truck was restarted. This morning I go to town and the battery light comes on. I stopped and started about 5 times and on the 6th it wouldn't start.
I got a boost and started home it , started to try and quit when I was almost home. Was so dead the power windows wouldn't even work. Have it on the battery charger now and it starts right up but the battery light is still on and the ABS light is on.
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When I hook my battery cable up to my battery when negative cable my truck automatically starts turning over without the key in it what could be the problem
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So I went to start the truck this morning around 8:00 and it was 7 degrees outside, when the truck started the oil light came on and oil gauge was on low? So I turned it off right away. few hours later I tried it again and still nothing I thought maybe the oil was frozen. After I started the truck the oil was higher on the dipstick so I am assuming the oil pump is functional. What could be causing this? Could it be the the gauge is not working? The truck is a 2000 F-350 V-8 5.4 gas. I'm hoping it is something simple I am suppose to work this afternoon
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I have another very odd problem with my 2003 F250 7.3 PS with 206000 miles on it.
I am visiting my parents and every time I go thru this certain area my truck will act up. The first thing that happens is the truck starts losing power and then it starts bucking like water in the fuel or the cam position sensor is giving out.
WHAT I HAVE DONE SO FAR: I have drained the fuel filter assembly ( no water ) and a new cam position sensor has been installed (about 5000 miles ago, I even put old one back it to check it out same results). I have driven the truck all over the place and don't have an issue except in this ONE spot. I am beginning to think there is some kind of high powered RF going on in this area causing my truck to act up. I am thinking of hooking up my autoenginuity scanner up to it and hopefully see something going on.
Is there anything I can do to block this out if it is a RF problem. I think it is effecting my Pcm/ECM for then engine causing the truck to act up.
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I'll try not to post an entire book.. But I bought a 2000 F250 not even 8 months ago, it did have issues before but I changed out the spark plugs and coils and it fixed it's original missing issues.. I also just recently changed the fuel filter but it didn't fix it's new problem.. It drives ok around town but if I get over 35 mph it doesn't run well... If I try to keep a steady foot on the gas but don't get the RPMs over 2000, the RPMs will stay where they're at for just a second then they will drop down and the whole truck starts shaking.. I push more on the gas and it shakes even more and the RPMs don't move at all until I really step on it.. It lacks in power going up hills as well... The dealership i bought it from said the Catalytic Converter was bad but my uncle who is a mechanic says it isn't.. It's the first vehicle I've bought so kinda wanna make it last..
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I replaced a rear rusted brake line a couple of years ago. It rusted where the line met the bracket. I'd never done this before but bought a flare (flaring?) tool and fixed it.
This week the longer line that runs down the length of the truck started leaking. It looks like the line was once held in place by a small bracket just in front of the rear wheel but it wasn't in that bracket anymore. I guess it rubbed against the metal and water/sand rusted it out.
A local garage said they'd need to drop the fuel tank and estimated that it would be several hours (and hundreds of dollars) to do the job. It looks like I might be able to cut the old one out and then fish the new line up through there and replace it.
Also, what is the diameter of the line? It is a 2004 F350. I can certainly cut it out first and then take a piece of it to the local auto parts place to get the replacement line.
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2000 Excursion 4x4 v10 auto. Pulling the boat last weekend up the driveway from the lake and the truck started smoking under the hood at the top of the drive. Jump out and saw a fire under the pass floorboard. Go the hose and put it out in 30 sec. Thought i blew a trans line and it sprayed on the cat. Took it to the shop and he said lines are good it's not leaking. He said it is possible that the trans over heated and built up pressure and blew it out past the front seal.? What happened or how to prevent it from happening again?
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So a few months ago I would occasionally hear what appeared to be a slight squealing noise from a pulley when I started my truck. It was very intermittent, so I didn't think much of it.
After a few weeks, I realized I was only hearing it on colder mornings - it would also go away rather quickly. I bought a mechanic's stethoscope, and figured I'd get to it on a slow day.
Today, I finally broke out the scope and tried to figure out the source. Didn't really find any pulleys making noise, and I did notice that when I shut the truck off, it squeaks for a second or two as it comes to a complete stop.
My dream of finding a bad pulley or perhaps a power steering pump was crushed. I had hoped to do a little Easter wrenching and put this noise to rest. So, I did what any good mechanic would do - I Googled the issue.
I'm reading that it could be the belt. Certainly wouldn't bother me too much as that is an easy fix. The belt isn't too old - about 4 years and 20 - 30K on it.
I took a few pics of the belt and can take a video of start/stop ....
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I had a can of fuel at home that had been siting around a while but I put it in my 02 F350 with the 7.3. hind site being 20/20 I shouldn't have done that. The truck only made it about 2 miles then started chugging and eventually quit. So I pulled the truck home and this is what I have done so far. I assumed that I had bad fuel so I started with a new fuel filter. I did notice that the fuel in the bowl was a milky white color. Not sure what that means. But the new filter did not work as the truck will not start. So after reading some other posts I decided to drop the fuel tank and clean everything.
I did that including cleaning out the 2 screens in the fuel pick up. After re installing the tank I put new clean fuel in the tank and primed the truck. But before starting it I drained the first amount of fuel out of the filter bowl just to make sure I got all of the bad fuel out of the lines. So after doing this I put a new filter in and primed the motor again. I appear to be getting good fuel pressure and the fuel looks very clean now at the bowl. But the truck does not even attempt to start. It turns over just fine but will not start. Some advice I can get before I have it towed to a shop. Also, the truck currently has 305,000 on it and has run great up till now.
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My truck starts sounding off like a foghorn at slow speeds and idle, goes away as soon as you tap the gas pedal. The truck is all stock. 2004 5.4L ....
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Question, my truck started to have a miss under normal acceleration, when I really get on it, it clears up? I also noticed a bad sulfer smell at idle. Im thinking the cat is possibly plugged? Truck had 172000ish on it, and the cat is original. I did do a big tune up this past fall, new plugs, coil packs, air and fuel filter. Should I put a new cat on it? And a new oxygen sensor?
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