Have a 2001 f350 that runs great until you hook a trailer to it. Once a trailer is hooked to it and you are on a slight incline (and I mean slight) it will not go into D.. It's like it gets stuck in N.. Have to jam it into 1 to get it to go.. Once level again it will go back to D... Truck has 177k miles on it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 F350 7.3 4WD that does not want to shift into drive. When you shift to drive you can feel a slight difference in the trans but it will not move, it will rev freely but not move. If I shift it up and down it will engage after a lag period ranging from 10-15 seconds up to several minutes. Reverse is ok and after forward engages it appears to work as it should, shifts ok through the gears. I don't have much experience working on automatics.
View 4 RepliesHave an f350 4x4 diesel that when I drive slow and especially turn to the right it makes a grinding noise. It seems to either go away or just gets muffled by road noise when cruising. The ball joints were bad so I replaced them and I figured with this especially when I turn right it had to be a wheel bearing so I replaced both of them and still same thing. Don't want to throw money at it hoping to fix the issue. Also front duff is full of oil.
View 5 RepliesI have an 05 f350. I cannot get trailer running lights to work. All other lights work. Trailer brakes work, battery charge for dump trailer. I've checked fuses under dash and under hood. Everything checks out. I'm Stumped.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 f250 superduty crew cab longbed with the v10 gas motor. it has 201000 miles on it and towed great up until last month. I was towing a 5000lb trailer down the interstate at around 68mph,suddenly it was like the drive train disengaged and the motor had nothing left, check engine light on but no overheat condition or lack of oil pressure. we put a new fuel filter and pump on and maf, took trailer out again and same problem, pulled to the side and turned off, immediately restarted and ran fine. It has a cat not cleaning code in it now!
View 14 RepliesMy 2011 F350 is shaking like a wet dog, all the time, loaded with a trailer and empty. It's the whole truck, not just the front end or rear end. It'll shake a Dr Pepper flat in 10 mins. No one can figure out why. Maybe y'all can think of something.
Here's what we've done
New tires, balanced
Alignment
Replaced ball joints and sway bar
Replaced carrier bearing
Replaced passenger front hub that got mysteriously locked and henceforth destroyed.
Replaced all 4 shocks
Where to look next?? Guess I should mention is 4x4 dually with 177,803 miles.
2004 ford f 350 super duty, 6.0 Liters international diesel, 4door, 4x4, long bed, dual rear wheels. Over 200,000 mileage. I have no power to the trucks brake lights and no power to the tow plugs trailer brake lights, which is the center left and the center right tow plug blade style contacts, while using a 12 volt test light! All fuses are showing good and I replaced the brake switch at the brake pedal, and I also replaced the towing plug with the short wire and connector at rear of truck which is under the rear bumper and the frame mounted tow hitch bar
- Are there any relays that control the truck brake lights and the trailer brake lights ?
- If yes where are the brake relays exactly?
- Have I missed or not done something else to correct the problem?
Any info if the "Aux" terminal on the trailer harness wiring on '01 F250s is for reverse lighting? I'd like to put some on my stock trailer. Also, is the "12v" terminal feed switch operated or hot always?
View 2 RepliesI'm getting a really choppy low RPM drive. If I'm above 2-2.5k rpm it runs okay but as soon as it drops under 2.5k it starts to run very choppy and loses power and Boggs in and out of power regardless of how much throttle input I give it. I had a tune up done last year and a recent oil change...
View 1 RepliesHere's what I have 2000 F350 XLT 105000 miles and a 4R100 tranny, was coming home from work no issues, stopped at my mailbox to retrieve mail.
when applying brake, it lunged forward a bit and stalled, I started back up put in drive, stalled again. started back up put in reverse, no issues.
I put in neutral revved it somewhat and it moved forward enough to start the roll down the small slope at my drive, I then started in neutral again as was rolling and then put into drive and drove 1/2 mile down my lane to house. backed up in my parking spot, no problems then shifted to drive and stalled.
Today I dropped the pan and checked the filter as I have read that sometimes they will fall out and cause same symptoms, filter was where it was supposed to be, no easy cure here.
So loving my new to me truck. Only has 140K on it. But one thing that bugs me is that with the doors closed tight, when I drive over bumps, they sound like they are not closed. Makes you feel like they will fly open. But when checked they are closed all the way. Is there an adjustment or something that can correct this?
View 5 RepliesMy F350 4x4 won't go into 4 wheel drive unless I get out and take them out of auto and put them in locked position and when I have it in lock mode it seams to work like it's in auto mode, when I put the switch on the dash in 2wd, it seams like it's only driving the back wheels....
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 F350 Crew Cab DRW 4WD 6.0L.
The front drive shaft is making a high pitched metallic squeal while the truck is in motion. I thought it might be the universal joints but after lubricating the joints, I can still hear the squeal and it sounds like it is coming from inside the drive shaft. I also hear this squeal when I spin the drive shaft by hand.
I have quite a few questions about these drive shafts:
- What would cause a squeal from within the drive shaft?
- Are there any replaceable parts or do I have to get a new drive shaft?
- How do I identify the correct drive shaft part for my truck? Seems like there are a LOT of different models on the web.
- Are any of the aftermarket drive shafts any good? Any to avoid?
- Is this a DIY job or will I need to take it in to the shop?
I want to install a new front drive shaft in my 2000 F350. I have the new one, and it has a big nut and it is threaded for length adjustment. My old one has a rubber boot which is missing from the new one. I plan on using red locktite but I do not know the torque specs on the front universal caps. Should I take it to my mechanic? I've never owned a 4x4 before.
View 3 RepliesOne of our trucks, 2004 F350 Powerstroke, my company truck, recently the last snow even we had, my tow haul mode would pop on and off almost evertime I shifted from drive to reverse while plowing. I didn't want it on, it just kept poping on and off. Thought maybe the button was stuck, but it moved like normal. My other thought was there is a loose connection in the shifter or column causing it to go on and off.
View 6 RepliesThis must have been asked before but I couldn't find any thread about it. Have a 2006 F350 that makes a rattling sound when engaged in front wheel drive. Sounds a bit like a loose ball from a ball bearing (or a small stone) rolling around. What might be causing this?
View 3 RepliesI went out getting firewood in my 2001 F350 4X4 6.8l V10 auto . Backed up to the slash pile, put the truck in 4X4 Low and went to work.
When we finished I flipped the switch to 2WD, but the transfer case would not dis-engage and the IDIOT LIGHT on the dashboard stays on 4X4 Low... I can't get the truck out of 4X4 Low. I turned the hubs from auto to lockand its still stuck in low range.
I just picked up a 2005 SC LB 4x4 5.4 v8 6mt F-350 yesterday and drove it about 250 miles home. It is my first Super Duty, and I love it so far but... the steering has some issues. There seems to be decent amount of play in the steering wheel when I'm driving straight. Also, the truck drives straight when the steering wheel is turned about 30 degrees to the left, and I would like to fix that and bring it to center. When I was cruising on the highway (65-70 mph), there was also two 20 minute periods of time spaced an hour apart where the steering would get light and the truck would dart to the left (i do not think road conditions were a factor as it did not happen on the worst stretches of highway. The truck has 133,000 miles on it, and has had pretty routines maintenance done on it, as it was owned by a drilling business as a work truck to haul tools. The guy I bought it from said that it needed the steering shock/damper replaced, so I will do that, but what else to you think I need to do to the truck?
View 2 Replies2001 f350 w/v10, 6.8. the fender mounted starter solenoid went out so I replaced it, while doing so I also replaced the battery (previous owner had a marine/rv battery installed, I purchased the truck a couple months ago). after replacement the truck still will not start. when attempting to start it barely if at all cranks, long story short I was going to have the starter tested but in the course of removing it the terminal posts broke off so I ended up replacing it too. The truck still would not start or really crank so I dug down with the expectation of finding a bad ground someplace. cleaned up the ground points. Now I have the battery on a charger awaiting it to finish recharging. Something that is likely/remotely likely to be causing the engine not to crank over and start that I have missed?
View 11 RepliesMy abs light is on. The guy I bought it from said he thought it was the sensor but who knows. Is there a way to test the sensors to see if they are working? Also can any other possible issues to look for? 2001 f350 7.3 xlt...
View 3 RepliesBought truck drove it 240 miles on interstate 80 mph no problems---2001 F350 4x4 auto. Next morning backed out drive and trans fluid trail 6 inches wide. Didn't leak in forward gears (at that time) added fluid and drive to town shifted fine.
Next day gonna drive 150 miles to check out leak. (Son was driving it) said it wouldn't go over 40 mph. Revving high. Hauled truck here on trailer and pulled tranny. Rear housing cracked just before 4x4 adapter. (This trans was rebuilt 10k miles ago) ..
Got used 4R100 from friend who replaced only because he built one for his truck. It was shifting fine etc when pulled 6 months ago. Used cracked trans TC and installed. Test drive no 4th or OD. Pulled trans put TC that came with trans in. Still no OD. Put on scanner while driving. Trans is being commanded to shift to OD but not up shifting. 45mph at 2400rpm.
Pulled plug to solenoid pack inside trans ( this should make trans default to OD / limp mode) still no OD and won't go over 45.
Pulled OD button checked wires inside steering column. All looks great. Not even a heavy rub mark.
Should I replace the coil pack in trans? Where do I go from here? Again this trans was known to be good when pulled 6 months ago.