Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F350 - Grinding Noise When Drive Slow And Especially Turn To The Right
Nov 15, 2016
Have an f350 4x4 diesel that when I drive slow and especially turn to the right it makes a grinding noise. It seems to either go away or just gets muffled by road noise when cruising. The ball joints were bad so I replaced them and I figured with this especially when I turn right it had to be a wheel bearing so I replaced both of them and still same thing. Don't want to throw money at it hoping to fix the issue. Also front duff is full of oil.
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I got a 2001 f350 got a noise in my left front wheel i know its not the wheel bearings, it only makes the noice when the locking hub is unlocked i did jack the the truck up and spun the wheel got a faint grinding noises form what seems like the locking hub so my question is bad locking hub or needle bearing holding the axle shaft??
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I bought a 2005 F350 in January of 2012. At the time of purchase, I noticed that the truck seemed slow to turn over. I talked the dealer into installing 2 new 750 CCA Ford batteries at the time of sale.
I have put less than 7,000 miles on the truck since the day I bought it. In August of 2012, I went to start the truck and the batteries were completely dead. I charged them, started the truck, and the next day the truck was dead again.
I took the batteries out, and took them to the dealer. They replaced both of them under warranty. They said that after they charged them, each tested at less than 85 CCA.
In July of 2013, the same thing happened. I used the truck one day, and then the next day the batteries were completely dead. I had them tested at the dealer, and the passenger side battery failed the test. The driver's side passed. They replaced the passenger side under warranty, again. This time, they also cleaned all battery / ground connections and tested the charging system. Everything passed.
Last week, I went to start the truck. Same thing again. Took the truck to the dealer, and both batteries, after charging, failed the test. They replaced both batteries under warranty.This time, on each battery, the dealer had written with yellow paint pen on the batteries AND on the radiator shroud "BATTERY NOT UNDER WARRANTY."
I asked the dealer about this, and they said that since they have replaced 5 batteries in the truck, and since it has 152,000 miles on it, the warranty is no longer valid. I argued that since they have checked the truck thoroughly, and found no issues with the charging system, they can't void the warranty like that.
So, what is the reason why the batteries would fail like that, and that frequently?
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I have a 2001 F350 7.3 4WD that does not want to shift into drive. When you shift to drive you can feel a slight difference in the trans but it will not move, it will rev freely but not move. If I shift it up and down it will engage after a lag period ranging from 10-15 seconds up to several minutes. Reverse is ok and after forward engages it appears to work as it should, shifts ok through the gears. I don't have much experience working on automatics.
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2001 f250 7.3 crew
So, Saturday my abs lite comes on. Later that day I hear metal to metal sound for a couple of secs then it stops. Then the next day while driving I get intermittent sounds that sound like I'm dragging metal down the pavement. I see nothing but I'm thinking hub bearing. (Needle)
I remove the hub assembly from the knuckle and can find nothing wrong. I even picked up a new hub just on case. Now I'm stumped. Can't figure out what the sound was or is. Axle has a little play going into the housing but figure it would have due to the only thing holding it in place is the hub.
The only thing left in the area that could make the sound is major --the actual gears to to the front end. If the bearing isn't causing the metal grinding sound I've no other idea other than that....
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My 1999 Ford F350 Dually 4x4 started making a grinding noise every once in a while about 3 weeks ago. Now it is doing it quite often, randomly as I am driving. I do notice the noise stops when I stop the truck, or when I flip the switch to 4x4 and back while driving.
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Have a 2001 f350 that runs great until you hook a trailer to it. Once a trailer is hooked to it and you are on a slight incline (and I mean slight) it will not go into D.. It's like it gets stuck in N.. Have to jam it into 1 to get it to go.. Once level again it will go back to D... Truck has 177k miles on it.
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Every once in a while, while driving my 06 350 SRW at slow speeds, I hear a grinding noise coming from the left side of the truck. It is almost like a winding grinding noise if that makes sense. It will grind slow to a stop, and then I hear a clunk.
This is a very intermittent problem. The tires are completely shot on the truck, and I thought that would be it, but considering it is intermittent and the clunk I hear as I come to a stop I figured it could be it.
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I have a 2001 F350 with a7.3 power stroke, 6 speed manual with manual t case and hubs. I have a bad grinding noise when in 2 wheel drive. Similar sound as if you are trying to shift t case into 4 wheel drive too slowly. The grinding is constant in 2 wheel drive, but if I shift it into 4 wheel drive, the noise completely goes away. I have been driving around in 4 wheel drive (T case only, manual hubs not locked) for the past 2 days. If I shift back into 2 wheel drive, a constant terrible grinding noise returns. What could be wrong, and why it goes away in 4 wheel drive?????
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My 2006 F350 is giving me grey hairs. I'm trying to figure out what's going on with it. I have been getting an occasional (more often than not) grinding noise from what seems to be the front of my truck. It will do it from a stop, under light, moderate, or heavy acceleration. Doesn't matter. If I let off the throttle momentarily it will stop until it shifts and will grind again through all shift points it seems.
Logic says it's got to be the wheel bearings or locking hubs. I recently did both on both sides to no relief. Because this is an 06 it had a different hub set up then the previous years which I've read a lot of info about (needle bearings). It doesn't make a lick of difference if hubs are locked or on auto. If in 4x4 (ESOF) or 2wd.
As mentioned I replaced both wheel bearings with FORD parts and both locking hubs From FORD as well. (Small fortune). Axle u joints seemed tight. Greased me up but no play.
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My buddy's 2001 7.3L F350 has had 3 transmissions. Rebuilt and used. Once the new trans is in he goes like 15 miles and then is starts shifting hard and grinding gears. What this could be?
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I replaced both front bearings, calipers, brake pads, now I have a grinding noise on the left side front stops sometimes when you step on the brakes? 1999 F350 ...
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2001 f350 4x4 dually 7.3 powerstroke, I recently replaced the hub assembly, stub shaft and seal, u joint, ball joints on the front drivers side and now periodically the truck makes a grinding growling vibration coming from front drivers side and stops after hitting a bump...
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I only hear it at low speeds, but I guess that's to be expected. I've heard a similar noise before with other cars/trucks, but I can't recall what causes it. Just looking on tips for where to start looking with the front end parts or wheel/caliper assembly.
Also, but not sure it's related, had a lot of front end wobble when I applied the brakes coming down steep hills last week while pulling a big, but empty, gooseneck trailer. I assumed warped rotors, but later, after I had picked up my load, it quit doing it, albeit I had started babying the brakes. Still, there was one instance of very hard braking and it didn't do it at all, but that was on straight pavement.
It's almost as if having that empty trailer and/or going down a steep hill caused it, and not anything on the truck. But the rubbing sound started before that wobbling. Whatcha think?
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Having a problem with my truck and I'm stuck. About 9 months ago my 4wd stopped working. Turn the switch and no light or noise. I took a look at fuses and everything was good there. I let it go but now I need 4wd. Today I checked every fuse and all of them were good. I moved to the relays checked them and they were good but for the heck of it replaced them. Checked for power at the pins. The one that needed power had power. Next I went to the switch had 12 volts there. Pulled switch and test with a multimeter and ohms were good. Went. Down to the motor and tested for power there not power to the motor. Is there anything else I'm missing Esof not working. 2002 f350 7.3 auto....
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I have a 2001 f350 4x4 with7.3 diesel...I have recently noticed a low grind like noise coming from the right front. I have troubled shot the issue and I am 100% sure it is the wheel hub assembly. Did I mention I am running 37x13.50 tires..and now you say no it is the hubs...and they are the original hubs. My question is every thing I look for shows ABS is on my truck... I look at the hub and don't see it.. so with the Dana 60 front does it have ABS or not? Also, should I go motorcraft, Timken or moog wheel hubs?
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I have an 08 f350 lariat with the 6.8 with 66000 miles. A month ago took it to the dealer with a plugged catilityc converter. All covered under warranty. Got the truck back, starts great when cold including 18 degrees the other morning. I drive 7 miles to work, shut it off and restart, it acts as if the starter is struggling to turn the engine over. Once it cools off, starts fine again. I took it back to dealer, they replaced the starter. No change. Took it back again, they replace battery. Cranks a little faster, but you can tell it's still struggling. It always starts, I'm just wondering how it will be when it's 80 out and in pulling my 9000lb camper....
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1999 F-350 7.3 Dually 2wd Front End issues. I think I may have several things going on so here goes. Truck has about 130,000 miles on it . Bought it with 60,000 miles in 2009.
It's always worn the front tires weird but it's gotten a lot worse and it's happening in about 10-15 thousand miles now. It's wearing the tires on both sidewalls like under-inflation but I run 70 lbs in them. I've noticed for several years now that it makes a knocking sound and I feel it in the floorboard, shakes in the steering wheel when I turn to the left only in a corner at speed. (65-70) ...
Now it's started intermittently going into the death wobble at slow speeds like the caster is to negative on it. I'm sure it could use some shocks but I just rotated the tires and I felt no play anywhere. I know when we used to get that bumping in the floor board on older Fords it was a bad radius arm bushing but that couldn't be all of what's going on here. I've done searches on this and it has happened to others but I haven't found a resolution from any yet.
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I have a 2002 F350 with the 7.3 diesel. I have had this truck since it had 30K miles on it and it now had 90K miles. It has been trouble free minus new pads and batteries. I recently changed the fuel filter and used a Donaldson filter. In the last week while driving the truck just mysteriously shuts off when I slow down for a stop sign. The only lights on the dash is the red battery light, and it fires right back up. I believe it has the original CPS in it as I have never changed it. Do you think this is the CPS going out or something else? I was wondering if the Donaldson fuel filter has anything to do with it?
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I'm getting a really choppy low RPM drive. If I'm above 2-2.5k rpm it runs okay but as soon as it drops under 2.5k it starts to run very choppy and loses power and Boggs in and out of power regardless of how much throttle input I give it. I had a tune up done last year and a recent oil change...
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Here's what I have 2000 F350 XLT 105000 miles and a 4R100 tranny, was coming home from work no issues, stopped at my mailbox to retrieve mail.
when applying brake, it lunged forward a bit and stalled, I started back up put in drive, stalled again. started back up put in reverse, no issues.
I put in neutral revved it somewhat and it moved forward enough to start the roll down the small slope at my drive, I then started in neutral again as was rolling and then put into drive and drove 1/2 mile down my lane to house. backed up in my parking spot, no problems then shifted to drive and stalled.
Today I dropped the pan and checked the filter as I have read that sometimes they will fall out and cause same symptoms, filter was where it was supposed to be, no easy cure here.
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