Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F350 - Front Rim Broken?
May 7, 2013
Tonight I went to check the air in the tires on my 2001 F350 Dually and saw that the front right rim is broken. Two of the five spokes are completely broken all the way through. So this means I am looking to buy at least one good stock rim for the front. Might buy two if the price is right. Didn't want to spend the money for 4 custom rims right now unless it is really a super deal. If you have some sitting there in your way send me a message. My Zip is 46347.
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My front passenger leaf spring just broke on my 2000 f-350. My front springs are T code, but I was wondering if a could replace the broken one with a code X spring as a temp fix until I get a leaf spring replacement delivered?
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I have a 2001 f350 super duty with the 7.3 diesel. It seams lately I'm noticing the front end seams to be taking a beating when going over bumps or rail road tracks. It feels like the front is bottoming out. I replaced the shocks in april, and just recently replaced the sway bar links to see if that will work. My thought is the front springs have lost there arch, but I'm not sure. They do look like there almost flat. Don't know if this is a problem on other trucks.
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Do a 2014 f350 front bumper will fit on a 2001 f350? Wanting to know if the bolt holes and body lines will match up? I put a 2014 rear bumper on and it bolted right up.
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I have a 2001 f350 4x4 with7.3 diesel...I have recently noticed a low grind like noise coming from the right front. I have troubled shot the issue and I am 100% sure it is the wheel hub assembly. Did I mention I am running 37x13.50 tires..and now you say no it is the hubs...and they are the original hubs. My question is every thing I look for shows ABS is on my truck... I look at the hub and don't see it.. so with the Dana 60 front does it have ABS or not? Also, should I go motorcraft, Timken or moog wheel hubs?
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F350 Super Duty sometimes the front driver side brake sticks and will pull to the left while driving and pull hard to the right while braking. It has a slight front end vibration when the symptoms are present. The wheel will be boiling hot to the touch and the smell of brakes burning is obvious.
After the truck sits, it will be good with no incident for weeks.
With the wheel still hot and on jackstand, the front wheel seems to turn freely until the brakes are applied, and seems to spin free again as brakes are released.
It seems to happen when I have a "hard braking" incident going forward until I park the truck and let it sit. If i consciously brake soft, the brakes seem to be fine.
I have read some of the posts and this is different in that it is intermittent.
I have replaced the brake hose as I thought it could be the "check-valve" symptom. No luck.
I have checked the sliders and re-lubed and they slide freely.
The caliper is relatively new and the fluid in the system is fresh as i recently changed the rear brake line and completely flushed and bled all four corners.
Do i just change the caliper, or, is there a way to find out if one of the pistons is intermittently binding? I would hate to invest in a new caliper if that is not the issue.
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I got a 2001 f350 got a noise in my left front wheel i know its not the wheel bearings, it only makes the noice when the locking hub is unlocked i did jack the the truck up and spun the wheel got a faint grinding noises form what seems like the locking hub so my question is bad locking hub or needle bearing holding the axle shaft??
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2001 f350 4x4 dually 7.3 powerstroke, I recently replaced the hub assembly, stub shaft and seal, u joint, ball joints on the front drivers side and now periodically the truck makes a grinding growling vibration coming from front drivers side and stops after hitting a bump...
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Not sure what caused it to break but my front driveshaft split in half. I had it in 4wd and was doing a K turn to back in my driveway in a snow storm.
I got underneath in the snow (miserable) and wasn't able to come close to getting it off. The bolts holding the shaft onto the t-case will not budge and the tiny 5/16" bolts stripped all my small 1/4" sockets. I'm guessing I need a 3/8" drive 5/16" for front and the rear just spins. Any tricks to getting this off the truck.
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What this might be? (see pic)....
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I went out getting firewood in my 2001 F350 4X4 6.8l V10 auto . Backed up to the slash pile, put the truck in 4X4 Low and went to work.
When we finished I flipped the switch to 2WD, but the transfer case would not dis-engage and the IDIOT LIGHT on the dashboard stays on 4X4 Low... I can't get the truck out of 4X4 Low. I turned the hubs from auto to lockand its still stuck in low range.
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2001 f350 w/v10, 6.8. the fender mounted starter solenoid went out so I replaced it, while doing so I also replaced the battery (previous owner had a marine/rv battery installed, I purchased the truck a couple months ago). after replacement the truck still will not start. when attempting to start it barely if at all cranks, long story short I was going to have the starter tested but in the course of removing it the terminal posts broke off so I ended up replacing it too. The truck still would not start or really crank so I dug down with the expectation of finding a bad ground someplace. cleaned up the ground points. Now I have the battery on a charger awaiting it to finish recharging. Something that is likely/remotely likely to be causing the engine not to crank over and start that I have missed?
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My abs light is on. The guy I bought it from said he thought it was the sensor but who knows. Is there a way to test the sensors to see if they are working? Also can any other possible issues to look for? 2001 f350 7.3 xlt...
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I noticed an oil leak out of the front housing of my 2016 350. I have 3 Ford dealers nearby and all 3 can't get me in until 8 August. It looks to be just a few drops daily. Is it safe to drive pulling a 5th wheel until they get me in? The leak is at the bottom of the housing.
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I recently purchased a 2000 F350 4wd, it's mainly used for plowing my driveway, and hauling larger items. I can truly say I love this truck. When I got it, it was in pretty rough shape, but slowly I've been bringing it back to life.
However, I have this loud front end rattling sound I can't seem to locate. Quick background the truck is 4wd with a v10 in it, and it has 215k miles on it, poorly maintained, so everything is suspect. Only new parts are all new brakes and new u-joints everywhere.
So back to the noise, it's most noticeable whenever I hit a small bump or dip at lower speeds, but the noise is still there at higher mph as well. It's loud and literally sounds like the whole front end will fall off, its a definite rattle, doesn't seem to be from one side or the other, best I can describe is in front of the firewall at it sounds like something is very loose.
But when I crawl underneath the truck, I don't see anything loose, the shocks, look OK, the sway bar links seem to be connected. IDK what else to look for, 4wd works fine and doesn't seem to alter the noise any when engaged.
Truck recently passed inspection, and no mention of anything being loose or worn was mentioned. I'm kinda at a loss, but the sound is so loud and noticeable I feel like it should be obvious as to whats loose underneath.
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Bought truck drove it 240 miles on interstate 80 mph no problems---2001 F350 4x4 auto. Next morning backed out drive and trans fluid trail 6 inches wide. Didn't leak in forward gears (at that time) added fluid and drive to town shifted fine.
Next day gonna drive 150 miles to check out leak. (Son was driving it) said it wouldn't go over 40 mph. Revving high. Hauled truck here on trailer and pulled tranny. Rear housing cracked just before 4x4 adapter. (This trans was rebuilt 10k miles ago) ..
Got used 4R100 from friend who replaced only because he built one for his truck. It was shifting fine etc when pulled 6 months ago. Used cracked trans TC and installed. Test drive no 4th or OD. Pulled trans put TC that came with trans in. Still no OD. Put on scanner while driving. Trans is being commanded to shift to OD but not up shifting. 45mph at 2400rpm.
Pulled plug to solenoid pack inside trans ( this should make trans default to OD / limp mode) still no OD and won't go over 45.
Pulled OD button checked wires inside steering column. All looks great. Not even a heavy rub mark.
Should I replace the coil pack in trans? Where do I go from here? Again this trans was known to be good when pulled 6 months ago.
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It's a 2001 F-350 Crew cab short bed. Got it from the second owner which had a large file from the original owner on documentation and maintenance records. Truck has 280k, tranny about 80k. Question I have is, I kinda thought it would "feel" more powerful then it does. Temp got to about 35f last night after work and it cranked for about 15-20 sec before it started (yes I let the "Wait to start" light go out).
Then pulling out of work it would hardly get out of its own way. Does this sound normal? When it is warmed up it goes ok, but still I figured when the turbo winds up it would feel a bit "peppier". I get its a diesel and not a hot rod but I was expecting a bit more pep.
MODS on the truck that I can tell: AFE cold intake, 5"? exhaust turbo back, about 4" lift. Stock PCM. In cab controlled rear air bags, nice deck with back up camera.
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I have a 2001 F 350 with a V10 it keeps coming back as a misfire on cylinder 3 and 4.. I replaced all of the coils and plugs and pigtails I have even swapped out the coil packs from side to side and I still keep coming back with the same code. The truck has a bad check around 1500 RPM with a load on the motor mainly doesn't in overdrive and first starting off...
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I have a 01 f350 7.3 turbo dsl. will not start cold. engine turns over fine. plug into block heater over nite , will start! outside temp does not make difference. I have replaced glow plugs, glow plug relay, wiring harness under valve covers. Where to go from here?
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i have a 01 Ford F-350 7.3L quite and won't start I have replaced the ipr valve and sensor and the crank sensor and the truck still won't start...
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I have a 2001 F350 7.3 4WD that does not want to shift into drive. When you shift to drive you can feel a slight difference in the trans but it will not move, it will rev freely but not move. If I shift it up and down it will engage after a lag period ranging from 10-15 seconds up to several minutes. Reverse is ok and after forward engages it appears to work as it should, shifts ok through the gears. I don't have much experience working on automatics.
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