The driver side wiper shaft on our '01 F350 is slipping/ stripped and we cant find anything online about this. Does the whole shebang need replacing? Is there an easy fix?
View 5 RepliesLooking for an aftermarket intermediate steering shaft for my 2001 f350 since the original has some play at the slip joint and u joints.
View 1 Replies2001 f350 4x4 dually 7.3 powerstroke, I recently replaced the hub assembly, stub shaft and seal, u joint, ball joints on the front drivers side and now periodically the truck makes a grinding growling vibration coming from front drivers side and stops after hitting a bump...
View 3 Replies09 F350 with 50,000 miles, just starting to hear a mild squeak from front drivers side hub I believe. Can hear it while in 4 wheel drive, my thoughts is that the original universal in the hub is beginning to give up. My question is how long would you think I have before I need to get this done? Would this be a warranty item? I am not sure anymore.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 F350 srw 6.0. 4x4. Front driver side wheel bearing went out. Went to the auto parts store got a replacement. Got it all tore apart, put the new one on and the lockout didn't seem to fit right. Is there a difference in wheel bearing assemblies for electronic shift on the fly and regular lockout? I have the electronic shift on the fly lockouts and it had just a little bit of play in it when I put the snap ring back in.
View 3 RepliesI just installed a set of power folding mirrors on my 2008 F350. I noticed that the driver side mirror has a longer travel time than the passenger side. How to fix, or why this is like that? Is it normal? watch the video to see what I mean.
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I have a 2004 F350 Crew Cab DRW 4WD 6.0L.
The front drive shaft is making a high pitched metallic squeal while the truck is in motion. I thought it might be the universal joints but after lubricating the joints, I can still hear the squeal and it sounds like it is coming from inside the drive shaft. I also hear this squeal when I spin the drive shaft by hand.
I have quite a few questions about these drive shafts:
- What would cause a squeal from within the drive shaft?
- Are there any replaceable parts or do I have to get a new drive shaft?
- How do I identify the correct drive shaft part for my truck? Seems like there are a LOT of different models on the web.
- Are any of the aftermarket drive shafts any good? Any to avoid?
- Is this a DIY job or will I need to take it in to the shop?
I want to install a new front drive shaft in my 2000 F350. I have the new one, and it has a big nut and it is threaded for length adjustment. My old one has a rubber boot which is missing from the new one. I plan on using red locktite but I do not know the torque specs on the front universal caps. Should I take it to my mechanic? I've never owned a 4x4 before.
View 3 RepliesOn my 02 f350 xlt my turn signals work but not my wiper speed switch, when i put the small fuze in, the wiper go full speed and wont stop unless i pull the fuze out... What could be wrong?
View 3 RepliesSeems like my 2001 f350 7.3 has an ac freon leak on pass side near compressor. AC is blowing coolish air but not cold like is should be. There is green like oil around main line leading out of ac compressor. I have attached several pics to illustrate situation.
View 7 RepliesWindshield wipers, and washer were suddenly not working the other day, so I discovered a blown fuse. Put a new one in, and it immediately blew again. So there is definitely something grounding out, and I am suspecting the wiper motor itself because so far I have not been able to find any wires shorting out, but before I go to the trouble of pulling the motor out and testing it, or replacing it.
Truck is a 2002 F350CC 7.3 TD. Wipers were working fine the other day before I pressure washed it, which is why I really suspect the wiper motor itself.
Here's the deal. I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and I am getting a noise in the front drivers side wheel. The noise is not a grind or clunk, but its like a u-joint is rubbing inside an empty cylinder kind of. Anyways, it seems like it does it only with small bumps. I took off my oem hubs and re-installed them and the noise went away for about a week. Now I replaced them with manual locking hubs and the noise is back. One other thing I notice is if i put the switch to 4x4 the noise goes away. I checked all major components for the steering and suspension and nothing was loose. The front end is tight. Is there anything inside the axle that would cause this? I dont know what to check for anymore. Where else to check?
View 4 RepliesMy drivers window will not work at all but when I push the button I get a clicking in the fuse box. The other 3 windows partially work but will only go up or down in small increments. I have tried holding the button and slamming the door and this allows the other 3 windows to work. I thought it was the switch so I replaced it and that was not the problem. Fuse and relay seem to be fine. If it was just the driver window I would think it was the lift motor but with the other 3 windows on the fritz I have no clue.
View 1 RepliesI have a '01 F250 with a frozen u-joint in the driver side front axle. My question is can I put it together without the axle and drive it?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L . I purchased the truck used with about 120,000 miles on it. It runs great despite averaging about 10.8 mpg. Shortly after I got the truck, I noticed what I thought was an intermittent transmission issue when the trans would shift. I would get a "flare" that lasted briefly as if the trans was slipping, but it was accompanied by a sound that I'm not sure how to describe, but it was somewhat like hitting a rev limiter. It only happened when the transmission shifted. The fluid was clean and did not smell burnt. I assumed it was a misfire issue, even though it did not happen often, and seemed to only happen at shift points. I changed all of the plugs and all of the coil packs. It still does the exact same thing. Sometimes it only does it once every couple of days, and other times it may do it 3 or 4 times a day.
View 5 RepliesI went out getting firewood in my 2001 F350 4X4 6.8l V10 auto . Backed up to the slash pile, put the truck in 4X4 Low and went to work.
When we finished I flipped the switch to 2WD, but the transfer case would not dis-engage and the IDIOT LIGHT on the dashboard stays on 4X4 Low... I can't get the truck out of 4X4 Low. I turned the hubs from auto to lockand its still stuck in low range.
I have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
View 3 Replies2001 f350 w/v10, 6.8. the fender mounted starter solenoid went out so I replaced it, while doing so I also replaced the battery (previous owner had a marine/rv battery installed, I purchased the truck a couple months ago). after replacement the truck still will not start. when attempting to start it barely if at all cranks, long story short I was going to have the starter tested but in the course of removing it the terminal posts broke off so I ended up replacing it too. The truck still would not start or really crank so I dug down with the expectation of finding a bad ground someplace. cleaned up the ground points. Now I have the battery on a charger awaiting it to finish recharging. Something that is likely/remotely likely to be causing the engine not to crank over and start that I have missed?
View 11 RepliesMy abs light is on. The guy I bought it from said he thought it was the sensor but who knows. Is there a way to test the sensors to see if they are working? Also can any other possible issues to look for? 2001 f350 7.3 xlt...
View 3 RepliesBought truck drove it 240 miles on interstate 80 mph no problems---2001 F350 4x4 auto. Next morning backed out drive and trans fluid trail 6 inches wide. Didn't leak in forward gears (at that time) added fluid and drive to town shifted fine.
Next day gonna drive 150 miles to check out leak. (Son was driving it) said it wouldn't go over 40 mph. Revving high. Hauled truck here on trailer and pulled tranny. Rear housing cracked just before 4x4 adapter. (This trans was rebuilt 10k miles ago) ..
Got used 4R100 from friend who replaced only because he built one for his truck. It was shifting fine etc when pulled 6 months ago. Used cracked trans TC and installed. Test drive no 4th or OD. Pulled trans put TC that came with trans in. Still no OD. Put on scanner while driving. Trans is being commanded to shift to OD but not up shifting. 45mph at 2400rpm.
Pulled plug to solenoid pack inside trans ( this should make trans default to OD / limp mode) still no OD and won't go over 45.
Pulled OD button checked wires inside steering column. All looks great. Not even a heavy rub mark.
Should I replace the coil pack in trans? Where do I go from here? Again this trans was known to be good when pulled 6 months ago.
It's a 2001 F-350 Crew cab short bed. Got it from the second owner which had a large file from the original owner on documentation and maintenance records. Truck has 280k, tranny about 80k. Question I have is, I kinda thought it would "feel" more powerful then it does. Temp got to about 35f last night after work and it cranked for about 15-20 sec before it started (yes I let the "Wait to start" light go out).
Then pulling out of work it would hardly get out of its own way. Does this sound normal? When it is warmed up it goes ok, but still I figured when the turbo winds up it would feel a bit "peppier". I get its a diesel and not a hot rod but I was expecting a bit more pep.
MODS on the truck that I can tell: AFE cold intake, 5"? exhaust turbo back, about 4" lift. Stock PCM. In cab controlled rear air bags, nice deck with back up camera.