Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F350 - Crank For About 15 - 20 Sec Before Starting
Dec 7, 2016
It's a 2001 F-350 Crew cab short bed. Got it from the second owner which had a large file from the original owner on documentation and maintenance records. Truck has 280k, tranny about 80k. Question I have is, I kinda thought it would "feel" more powerful then it does. Temp got to about 35f last night after work and it cranked for about 15-20 sec before it started (yes I let the "Wait to start" light go out).
Then pulling out of work it would hardly get out of its own way. Does this sound normal? When it is warmed up it goes ok, but still I figured when the turbo winds up it would feel a bit "peppier". I get its a diesel and not a hot rod but I was expecting a bit more pep.
MODS on the truck that I can tell: AFE cold intake, 5"? exhaust turbo back, about 4" lift. Stock PCM. In cab controlled rear air bags, nice deck with back up camera.
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I work for the transportation department at a school and we have a bunch of 6.0 f350/450 busses and this bus I am working on has a no crank condition. Bus in question is a 2006 F450 6.0.
Currently if you turn the key to start the engine the solenoid just clicks but the engine wont crank. The person working on it before me assumed that the batteries and or starter were bad so they were replaced(0 miles on them right now) but the problem still persists.
First thing I did when I started working on this bus was jumping the starter relay and the starter engages and starts the engine perfectly. That being said I know the starter wiring is fine.
Secondly I looked through the wiring diagrams and saw that the PCM grounds the 85 terminal on the starter relay so I tried grounding the 85 and I was able to crank the engine with the key so that was telling me that the actual starter relay is fine. Next I went and swapped the PCM with another 2006 f450 thinking maybe the grounding switch in the PCM was bad and I have the same no crank condition. The PCM from the bus in question was swapped to the doner bus and it cranked perfectly(PCM in question is fine).
Next thing I did was look up all of the ground locations for the PCM or anything to do with the starter and they were all cleaned and still have the same no crank.
Looking around on the internet I see that the viscous fan can cause a problem if it shorts out so I unplugged that and no change in the no crank. I also saw that the trans range sensor could cause a no crank condition but I am getting back up lights/beeper and the bus "wants" to crank so I am thinking that the TRS is not the problem.
Lastly I tried hooking my Modis scanner up to this bus and was NOT able to communicate with either of the PCM's I tried. Not sure if this is related to my no crank condition. I checked all of the wiring that I could but could not find any chafing or breaks in any of the OBDII wiring. My planned next step is to replace the TRS...
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Yesterday I was on a pretty long trip and stopped off the interstate to grab some food. My truck is really loud so I always shut my engine off at the drive-thru. When I went to crack it back up everything lit up but when I turned the key nothing happened. I had the truck towed home and I put a new starter on it. Still nothing.....
Well after further investigating where the positive wire that comes from the starter to the battery was broken at the battery post. Don't know how the heck that happened but I fixed it back to factory condition but still nothing. I'm at a complete loss. I checked all fuses and everything looks good.
When I turn the key everything lights up, then turn to crank it and nothing but a slight sound coming from those square silver things in the fuse panel under the steering wheel.
2007 f250 PSD with to many extras to list
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Having an intermittent starting problem after sitting for a period of time or overnight. Engine will crank but not start, turn key off and back on wait 5 sec and engine starts and runs fine. Restarts all day long no problem. Dealer found a code(unk number) for low fuel rail pressure. Was able to create the problem for the tech. So far we have replaced the fuel filter, the FPDC (fuel pump driver control) and the fuel pump. Also replaced two ground straps, possible poor connection.
Problem continues.
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I have 99 f350 single rear wheels 4x4 . I went to start it this morning and it would crank but not start b/c it was cold. I plugged it in and still wouldn't start then it wouldn't even crank. I checked all fuses swapped relays and I have new batteries. The last thing I did was hit on the starter a few times and it started. So I went and bought a new not remand a new starter and put it on and now it won't crank!? I get 12v at the little wire on the selenoid on the fender. So now what?
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3. Turn the key lights and fuel pump come on but the starter wont crank. I replaced the starter and checked all the fuses i could find. The only way i can get the truck to crank is by jumping the relay under the hood .
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2015 F350 6.2, 4 door 8' bed FX4...... 17,200 miles.
This morning when outside to start it (nice sunny morning) and turned the key and all the dash lights went on and also went crazy. Said it had all kind of problems on the dash, Trac system, Over heating and so on. The starter did not crank over at all. Tried this about 8 times in 45 minutes, no worky. Call Ford, they towed it to the dealer. I last drove it 2 days ago. All stock, no programmer.
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I have some issues with my 2009 F250 5.4L. Recently I got in the car and went to start it. It started fine but I was getting beeping noises from the dashboard. 5 beeps with 1 second between each beep for 3 times. I shut the car off and go to start it again and engine does not crank at all. I get the relay click every time i try to start it but engine doesn't want to crank. Then the beeps come back.
About a month ago I had a reputable shop here in town install a compustar remote starter. It hasn't given me any troubles at all but I'm thinking this might be the culprit behind the issue. I towed the car down to the place where they installed my remote starter and they got the car started. They said I had blown fuses and the remote starter is not behind the problem I'm having. So I picked the car up and it was all good for 4 days and last night I get in the car and same issue.
I scanned the car and came back with these codes
U2472 Ignition State Unexpected
B1868 Lamp Air Bag Warning Indicator Circuit Failure
U2023 Vehicle communication bus error
I tried resetting the codes and tried to start the car (it didn't) and another code popped up
B1555 for ignition run/start circuit failure.
Whats going on? Problem?
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I have a 2000 F250 7.3 manual tranny that was put away for winter storage and now will not start. Need it to get my weekend work done now that the snow is finally gone. Symptoms:
- not cranking
- no dash lights (no oil light, battery light, etc.)
- radio works
- head lights work
- key buzzer works
- can hear clicking when turn key (assume solenoid OK)
Put in two new batteries, fully charger and terminals are clean. Where should I start looking?
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I have a F350 with a V10 Triton motor. It has 186,000 miles on it. I have difficulty in starting it after it has sat for a few days. Typically I have to turn the switch off and on multiple times but it will eventually start. Once it has started it runs and starts fine if it has not sat for any long period of time.
I connected a pressure gauge to the schrader valve. Initially when the key was turned on there was no pressure. While the engine was turning over it was about 30 psi. When the engine started it remained at 30 psi. Ran the engine at 4,000 rpm and the pressure remained about 28 psi. Shut the engine off and turned the key back on the pressure showed 20 psi and remained there.
I'm thinking maybe the problem is with the fuel pressure regulator but can seem to find it. I've spent multiple hours searching online for the location of the Pressure Regulator but no luck.
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I own a 1999 F350 with a 7.3 diesel engine, every time I drive it, it will start once then it won't start again for hours. At first I thought the starter was getting hot because of the exhaust is too close to it but I tested the wires going to the starter and i am not getting power to the starter when this happens. When it started doing this, it would only act up if it was above 80 degrees outside. Now it makes no difference. I have replaced the Valve cover gaskets, glow plug solenoid, and starter solenoid.
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I have a 2005 Ford F-350 with the V10 4x4. I was backing out of the driveway and it just died. I stopped put the truck into park and it wouldn't crank. The dash lights up and everything else works but the truck will not crank. I continued to attempt to start it and eventually it turned over and ran. It has been doing this intermittently for a couple months but never this bad. I've taken it to mechanics and nobody has been able to rectify.
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We just bought a 2000 F350 knowing it has some issues. The #5 fuse (generator/secondary) under the hood consistently blows fuses the second it's inserted, meaning there's a dead short. Truck will crank but not start. As well, theres a 5 amp fuse under the dash, which when inserted, keeps the instrument cluster on as if the key was on, even with no key in the barrel. We cannot hear the fuel pump running, the fuel reset switch is fine, all ignition wires at the column are showing 12 volts at the right times. What could be wrong? I'm a 12 volt specialist, but not a ford tech.
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Having an issue with my 04. Wife got in the truck to move it and no dome lights no crank nothing. Swapped the battery for a new one. Still nothing.
I checked all fuses. I literally was just driving it 10 months prior to her getting in it. Said dome came on for a second then shut off. 2004 F350 5.4 ....
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I've got a 2005 f350 with a 6.0 starts when it wants. I have checked the ficm and 48 volts when key is on and cranking! How do I know if my icp is bad? Some days it will start no problem but most days it will just crank over. When it does start i run it for a while shut it off and try to restart it and it wont!
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So here's the deal, crank no start its getting fuel. Has base oil pressure and i put a ficm on that test good with a voltage meter key on engine off and cranking. I haven't hand any trouble finding info on this issue so. We can keep picking away. Just cant find anything about this.
A buddy of mine who has been trying to figure it out for me, Got it to start using a starting fluid. And it would run if someone was pushing the gas peddle but wouldn't idle. Or start without the starting fluid.
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2003 f-350 had no dash lights and no start or crank. Found battery cable junction on left fender broken fixed, replaced starter. Drove it sunday, went about 15 mi and just shut off. Towed home was a battery, replaced battery, now I have lights but turn key and nothing? Was starting fine, all summer seems like a cold weather issue. Any relays I should be looking for? I was going to check power to started but raining too hard this am ...
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I tow 10-15K; 6-10x per month with this truck. I can feel the braking ability starting to drop off so I want to get them done pretty quick. I am more or less happy with OEM performance but if there is a better value, and with my SO starting to haul the horse trailer around.. I wouldn't mind upgrading.
What is worth the money? I'm fresh out of school trying to figure out what the best value is.
Calipers?
Rotors?
Pads?
Brake Lines?
What would provide me with a noticeable improvement without breaking the bank?
Last question, could worn rotors cause vibration/shaking in the steering (primarily when turning ramps) at 50-60mph? Tires are brand new, problem showed up before they were replaced.
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So I 2003 6.0 F350 that is a Dually. Been sitting in my yard for about two years now. I turn the key it just clicks and it doesn't crank. The starter solenoid is not on the firewall so I use the trick with the battery connected positive straight to the starter with the whit The starter solenoid is not on the firewall so I use the trick with the battery connected positive straight to the starter with the wire on the engine bay. It cranked for a while and that started ran rough. Then it just died. I did not start again. I did this during winter so the engine have time to cool off it was about below freezing. Done this multiple times and drove up and down in my backyard but not on the road. What could be wrong with it. Either way I put in diesel 911 and more fuel but and I change the filters with Motorcraft OEM filters. Sure that the caps were right.
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I'm just a shade tree mechanic try to diagnose a hot crank no start condition on my 2006 F-350 6.0 that I purchased second hand about six months ago. I first took it to a diesel shop to have them fix it and the mechanic told me that the stand pipes and dummy plugs needed changing out but couldn't tell me 100% if that would fix the hot no start problem.. I have been reading a lot about this problem and it seems that the snap to connect fitting on the HPOP is the most common problem on these trucks. It seemed easy enough to do so I went after it only to find it was already replaced with the updated part.
I went ahead and changed it anyway but it obviously didn't work. So today I pressurized the system through the ICP port with my small harbor freight compressor up to 80 psi and forced the IPR valve closed with 12v. I then listened for a leak in the passenger side valve cover with a hose stuck in the oil fill cap, the driver side cover from some drain hole under the air filter housing and in the oil filter housing. I could hear a mild hissing from the driver side and the oil filter housing but it was clearly louder from the oil fill on the passenger side. This leads me to believe I have a top seal leak from one of the injectors on the passenger side, but not 100% sure. Should I be hearing anything at all from the driver side and from the oil filter housing if its a bad seal in the passenger side?
Another problem I just found out I have seems like maybe fuel in the oil. I done a oil change this week after 3500 miles since last change and drained out five gallons of oil!! The oil seemed really thin. My coolant level is still good so the only thing I can think of is fuel dilution. Could this possibly be the same o ring or injector that is causing my hpo leak or something else? Will a bubble or balloon test diagnose this?
I bought a cheap OBD2 reader that works on my Ipad with a app called Dashcommand so I can see what codes were stored. The codes are...
P0401- Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Flow Insufficient Detected (EGR has been deleted)
P0528-Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0670-Glow Plug Control Circuit/Open
P0683-Glow Plug Control Module to PCM Communication Circuit
P2290-Injection Control Pressure Too Low
So far my thoughts are to replace the injector and nipple cup seals to take care of the hpo leak. Once I have the valve cover off, clean the injectors real good and cycle the fuel pump with turning the key on and inspect the injectors for a fuel leak. Is there a better way than this?
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So I just purchased a 2011 F350 6.7 this week...I've had absolutely no problems until I drove it to the dealer just to get it detailed...I give the salesman my key and he comes back and says it won't start...we tried numerous time to start it...put jump boxes on both batteries and nothing...had full power to all accessories but when attempting to crank it would black out on the dash screen and give me a "stop vehicle" warning....does this deal with security?....also after hassling to get rental for a hour or so,we tried agian and it fired right up?!?...also it started double honking when locking. ..is that due to the hood being up?
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