2001 F-350 4x4, 5.4 automatic.
Where to start , check engine light is on. Nothing seems wrong , trucks running good , nothing happened , just the light. I kinda like the truck so I would like to find out what its issue is?
I literally just purchased a "new" 06 F350 and have had it just over a month. I bought it from a used car place in Salt Lake City and have put roughly 250 miles on it, it has 105k on it. While having 1 sled in the bed and towing a 1-place snowmobile trailer up a 8% grade my check engine light lit up. Little back story, there was a slight hiccup that I started to realize it had about a few days after purchasing it, would kind of buck a few times under normal acceleration around to 40-60 mph not every time just occasionally. Been meaning to take it to a friend to have it looked at, just been fairly busy.
Now when I was driving it back home (~8-10 miles, almost exclusively downhill) at stop light and accelerating from 0mph it would not prime the boost, I was getting almost no power until I hit 2000 rpm then all of a sudden things were fine turbo would engage I was able to drive normally. It hasn't moved in 2 days as I will not drive it until I know what is wrong with it. In doing a little research I read about turbo veins being stuck open, ignition problems, and a few other things that might pertain to what is going on with my truck. I have a buddy coming in the morning tomorrow to pull some codes with a scanner so I will have more information here shortly but I just wanted to get the conversation started on this.
I have a 2006 350 6.0l check engine light came on today truck is running normal except the fuel gauge and mile to empty gauges keep changing when I turn the truck off. What this could be?
View 1 RepliesI bought a 06 f350 Friday night with 132,000 miles. No lights when we test drove or left the dealership. About 20 miles down the road the check engine light came on, truck ran fine so I continued the trip home no problem. Saturday night I had the codes check and it said a blocked EGR passage. Yesterday after a decent amount of driving a wrench light started popping on after 20-30 minutes of driving. But no memory code. Would that be related to the blocked EGR? Will cleaning the EGR fix both lights or what?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
View 9 RepliesI own a 2011 F350 dually with the 6.7 in it. It has 136000 on it and zero mods. I was driving over the weekend and the traction control light, brake light, and the ABS lights all came on and the information center displayed Check Brake System. We were towing our 5th wheel when this happened. The brakes on the pickup and trailer both work and we have no problems stopping. About every 15 minutes or so this message pops up and it chimes again. My insight is reading a U0418 code. We are stopped now and the code and alert message is still popping up without the trailer. All fluid levels are where they should be.
We are also getting a check engine light and my Insight is reading the codes P2020 and P20E8.
I can reset the codes dealing with the reductant leakage and low pressure, but not the codes dealing with the brake system.
I have had my pickup in to 2 different ford dealers for these issues and they cannot find anything wrong. I did notice that this time when the Check Brake system warning appeared that the pick up started lunging a bit, we lost power to the stereo and the windshield wipers came on. Our fuel mileage has remained the same and the pickup still tows like a beast.
2001 f350 7.3 diesel and I come up with the codes for upper and lower dual generator fault. I have only one alternator not the dual.. I checked the gauge and it is running at 14 consistently. But the service engine soon light keeps coming on...I clear them and they come right back... Alternator is only 2 years old and not a rmf..
View 1 RepliesMy abs light is on. The guy I bought it from said he thought it was the sensor but who knows. Is there a way to test the sensors to see if they are working? Also can any other possible issues to look for? 2001 f350 7.3 xlt...
View 3 RepliesI currently am driving a 2001 F-350 V10 SuperDuty, and recently the battery light was blinking. I replaced the alternator in it, but it didn't work. I thought it was bad so I went and got another and it still didn't work. Turned out that the alternator wasn't big enough. I then went BACK and got a larger alternator, and it still won't work. Now the battery light is solid, and I'm getting absolutely no charge out of the alternator. I checked all the fuses and nothing is wrong. It seems like all the things you think could be wrong are running perfectly fine! What could be wrong. The truck will start, and idle, but will run off the battery only.
View 14 Replies2001 f350 v10, initial problem was when i came to stop at light it idled rough. I changed all plugs,injectors and COP, and bad connectors thereto. Changed the clock spring as well. Now the truck idles like crap at first start of of the day then run fine there after. Replaced IAC, TPS, Temp sensor. Condition getting worse and now the temp gauge does not work. I am thinking maybe CAT Converter loaded up?
View 2 Replies2001 f250 7.3 crew
So, Saturday my abs lite comes on. Later that day I hear metal to metal sound for a couple of secs then it stops. Then the next day while driving I get intermittent sounds that sound like I'm dragging metal down the pavement. I see nothing but I'm thinking hub bearing. (Needle)
I remove the hub assembly from the knuckle and can find nothing wrong. I even picked up a new hub just on case. Now I'm stumped. Can't figure out what the sound was or is. Axle has a little play going into the housing but figure it would have due to the only thing holding it in place is the hub.
The only thing left in the area that could make the sound is major --the actual gears to to the front end. If the bearing isn't causing the metal grinding sound I've no other idea other than that....
Truck: 2001Ford F350 5.4 auto 4x4
Issue: Engine seems to free rev over 2500 RPMs. Barely hits 50 MPH. Revs fine in park, no power in gear. At 1/4 throttle it will move, but sluggish at best. Once you get around 2500 RPMs it stops accelerating and just revs. Does this in every gear, and gets worse the faster you go. feels like its stuck inbetween gears almost. No CEL's
Replaced: MAF, TPS, Trans fluid and filter, fuel filter, cleaned intake system, fuel system treatment, O2 sensors. Trans fluid was dark, but no burnt smell.
I'm about to pull the exhaust and look for a clogged cat.
I have an '01 F350 super duty dually, 7.3L, auto trans. Over the past weeks my overdrive light on the gearshift would flash intermittently, maybe once every couple weeks. I chalked it up to a prior theft attempt where the steering column was damaged, and had turn signal/hazards issues after that.
Over the past few days my reverse gear has taken longer to engage, and is hard getting into the higher gears at speed. As of yesterday, reverse is out and won't shift out of second. Fluid level is good and clear. Could this be a PCM issue, or some sensor or relay?
I recently bought a 2001 f-350 xl 4 door with the 8 foot box it has the 5.4L triton v8. I was heading to a job up in northern Alberta about 10 hours away from where I live. On the drive I lost control of the truck on some black ice I was doing about 50 miles I went into the ditch but nothing crazy drove right out after. Now my truck won't do over 30 mph the engine starts to sputter and back fire I loose all my power, what's going on. At idle she revs fine but as soon as I put her into drive it's like she wants to die what can it be?
View 6 RepliesPulled into work and the truck was running fine then i got out and shut it off and went to start it again to move it 5 minutes later and it would start and misfire and chug and the wrench light came on as well as check engine and abs. I replaced the throttle body motor with the doorman part and I'm installing a new electronic pedal today as well.
The weird part is the chugging as i replaced all plugs and coil packs, plugs are champion double platinum. when all this started it was raining pretty hard out side I've cleaned all plugs with compressed air and used dietetic grease on most until i ran out. Truck is a 2006 f250 with 3v 5.4 automatic... Truck is my work truck and i am stumped on this .....could cam sensors cause the same issues? What about egr valve?
1. About march 1, my check engine light came on- took it to oreileys for a scan and said Speed Sensor A (cannot remember code), I was not overly concerned to fix it very very busy.
*Drove about 800 miles no further issues except the annoying CE light*
2. ABS comes on a few days ago
3. Today the truck, 4 miles from home decides it wont let RPM's get above 2500, and 40mph. It slightly hard shifted once.
Truck has 97000 miles and is a 1999 V10 has NEVER had any tranny shifting issues or engine issues....
4. Check tranny fluid when we get home it does not smell burnt and is red- its not even that warm...
I have read a couple places that a VSS can cause this? But I never noticed my speedometer acting up EXCEPT for the day the CE light came on- which there was a lot of ice and tires were spinning and speedometer said 0.
Solid yellow engine light. Sounds and drives fine. Is it always emissions or can it be something bad? I was going to leave sunday for a 2 month trip pulling the RV. Now stuck waiting for wednesday for dealership.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2011 f250 with the 6.2 liter gas engine. Lost power and the check engine light came on. I pulled the codes and it is a camshaft position sensor and 4 other codes for misfire on all cylinder for that bank. I can't find any info on where the sensor is located or how to replace it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 F-550 XL truck, I had a problem with an open injector4 and was forced to replace the engine, later, I had a problem while installing an OLEP kit, misplaced the hose and killed the engine (...i know... ) so, I changed 3/4 of the engine, just mechanical parts and reused the wires and cables, now the check engine light is ON with an oil pressure error, replaced the sensor and the error remains, replaced the computer and guess what ...again, the same error. What might be going on?...
View 1 RepliesReplaced HPFP 38,000 miles ago. Truck began going in limp mode without engine light, wrench came on in dash, gave codes for brake switch, anti-theft, some other weird codes. Had those codes cleared, ran for while then water separator came on, drained the water out, came back on. Read some forums, so I removed and cleaned the housing, cleaned off the sensor. Had code cleared and ran good for about a week. Then guess what engine light comes on, limp mode.
Went to Auto Zone, pulled code P0088. This truck runs awesome until limp mode. No other problems. I take it to the ford dealer, scanner pulled P0088 and the water separator code again. I have read alot of remarks about this P0088 code. Can there be another cause for pulling this code, only 38,000 miles later. I had them do the TSB 12-07-07 but I have also read it can only be done if the P0088 is the only code. I just really feel there is an underlying issue with these 6.4's.
Just replaced the alternator in my 1993 Ford F250. How do I reset my check engine light? It keeps coming on after I drive for roughly 5 to 10 minutes.
View 7 Replies