Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F350 - Battery Light Was Blinking
May 4, 2011
I currently am driving a 2001 F-350 V10 SuperDuty, and recently the battery light was blinking. I replaced the alternator in it, but it didn't work. I thought it was bad so I went and got another and it still didn't work. Turned out that the alternator wasn't big enough. I then went BACK and got a larger alternator, and it still won't work. Now the battery light is solid, and I'm getting absolutely no charge out of the alternator. I checked all the fuses and nothing is wrong. It seems like all the things you think could be wrong are running perfectly fine! What could be wrong. The truck will start, and idle, but will run off the battery only.
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My buddy has a 2002 F350 CC Longbed with a 7.3. Last night the overdrive light started blinking. He said he drove it today and it takes about a mile or so for the light to come on but then it is a steady blinking. Truck has about 254K miles on it. He said other than the blinking light everything seems normal. How to figure out what this issue may be?
I got AE hooked up on his rig.
When I pull (ALL) codes this is what I get:
When I pull (Current) codes I get this:
I tried to clear the code and the light stopped blinking, but he said it started blinking again on the way home.
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The battery light blinks in my truck. It's not a controlled blink, but it flickers like a loose bulb. It started a week or so ago. It would blip every once in a while. Gradually it would start to flicker more often. At first I thought it was belt-related but it isn't related to the transmission shifting at all. So if you're thinking that it's belt-related, you're going to have to explain why it doesn't blink either right before or right after a transmission shift (i.e. a rapid change in engine speed).
Earlier in the week, the light was flickering so hard that it was virtually on. I drove home last night and didn't see it once, although that's the first time I haven't seen it happen at all in a week. The battery gauge itself doesn't move a bit while this is happening. I have a cigarette lighter voltmeter and it shows a pretty steady 14.1 volts regardless of whether the light is flickering or not.
I had the batteries tested in my truck by a real battery shop about 4 months ago and they are fine. The battery connections all seem tight and clean, and the belt, tensioner and all that seems fine. So..What can cause a battery light to come on that isn't voltage related?
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I have been having some inconsistency with my transmission in my 2005 F350. I bought it used 2 months ago and have had the low/tow overdrive light blinking. a month ago I removed the pan and changed the filter in the transmission. I had a friend run the diagnostic test and found transmission solenoid code as well as both cat. converters as well as my Number 8 cylinder misfiring... I pulled the transmission pan and filter to find what appears to be 7 solenoids? Where to start?
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ive got a 2000 v-10 excursion with 111k. Never had a problem like this before but last week I was driving home an noticed the theft light blinking while I was driving. Got home shut it off. next morning went to start it and nothing! when the doors open it makes a clicking noise under the dash. if I jump it the truck will start right up. If the batt is disconnected them re-connected it will start once until turned off and then nothing until its disconnected again. I ve got an elk hunt in 2 weeks and need to figure it out!
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The 5amp fuse 15, (Stop lite switch, GEM, PCM, 4WABS, Brake shift Interlock, Cluster 7 PCM-Keep Alive memory), is drawing 2.7 amps with key off.
The battery has gone dead two times overnight. The truck will start and run. I don't know where to proceed from this point to isolate the problem.
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My abs light is on. The guy I bought it from said he thought it was the sensor but who knows. Is there a way to test the sensors to see if they are working? Also can any other possible issues to look for? 2001 f350 7.3 xlt...
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My dad gave his 2005 Ford F-350 truck with the gas 5.4L (?) I drove it home. If i floor it it misfires badly, or if the RPM's get over 3000 it misfires then about 3800 it stops and keeps going. but i can't give it to much gas....
The spark plugs where replaced 2 years ago along with the cat converters. I can hear some very fait manifold gasket leak ...
A few days ago it was raining and it had a bad misfire with blinking CEL. but it never threw a solid CLE. can i still put the codes on it to see what cylinder it is? Are these issue related? Where should i start?
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Blinking instrument panel. When I turn my key on in my 99 F350 power stroke everything inside the cab just starts blinking like crazy motor turns over just fine but it won't start.
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So my right blinker is blinking really fast, after working fine for about a week. Nothing changed. I checked all bulbs and they're working fine. I repeat: ALL BULBS ARE GOOD. Truck has a service body on it with LED brake lights. Thought maybe the LED lights didn't have enough draw for the system to detect a good bulb, but left side works fine. Swapped bulbs from left side to right, still right side blinks fast. I even removed left rear brake light and it still flashes normally.. So not sure what's going on. Light control module??
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2001 F-350 4x4, 5.4 automatic.
Where to start , check engine light is on. Nothing seems wrong , trucks running good , nothing happened , just the light. I kinda like the truck so I would like to find out what its issue is?
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2001 f350 v10, initial problem was when i came to stop at light it idled rough. I changed all plugs,injectors and COP, and bad connectors thereto. Changed the clock spring as well. Now the truck idles like crap at first start of of the day then run fine there after. Replaced IAC, TPS, Temp sensor. Condition getting worse and now the temp gauge does not work. I am thinking maybe CAT Converter loaded up?
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2001 f250 7.3 crew
So, Saturday my abs lite comes on. Later that day I hear metal to metal sound for a couple of secs then it stops. Then the next day while driving I get intermittent sounds that sound like I'm dragging metal down the pavement. I see nothing but I'm thinking hub bearing. (Needle)
I remove the hub assembly from the knuckle and can find nothing wrong. I even picked up a new hub just on case. Now I'm stumped. Can't figure out what the sound was or is. Axle has a little play going into the housing but figure it would have due to the only thing holding it in place is the hub.
The only thing left in the area that could make the sound is major --the actual gears to to the front end. If the bearing isn't causing the metal grinding sound I've no other idea other than that....
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2001 f350 7.3 diesel and I come up with the codes for upper and lower dual generator fault. I have only one alternator not the dual.. I checked the gauge and it is running at 14 consistently. But the service engine soon light keeps coming on...I clear them and they come right back... Alternator is only 2 years old and not a rmf..
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I have an '01 F350 super duty dually, 7.3L, auto trans. Over the past weeks my overdrive light on the gearshift would flash intermittently, maybe once every couple weeks. I chalked it up to a prior theft attempt where the steering column was damaged, and had turn signal/hazards issues after that.
Over the past few days my reverse gear has taken longer to engage, and is hard getting into the higher gears at speed. As of yesterday, reverse is out and won't shift out of second. Fluid level is good and clear. Could this be a PCM issue, or some sensor or relay?
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Our new 2016 F350 King Ranch is suffering from a battery drain. It goes dead after it's been left for over 24 hours. This has left us stranded several times.
The truck has been at the dealership for weeks and there is still no resolution. We really like the truck and bought it because we believed it would be dependable. This is extremely frustrating.
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The problems that I am having at the moment are that the abs light is on from the speedometer, odometer, also the blinking overdrive light that comes on at around 25 mph. After some research I had purchased a ford factory sensor for the rear dif. I then replaced the old sensor with the factory one. Started the truck and not a single thing had changed, both the meters were not working as well as the od light was still flashing.
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I went to start my 2006 F350 6.0 this morning. 20 degrees outside. It nearly turned over, then it appeared that the batteries would not support another start - a slowing of the pre-engine start revving....
So I let it sit a while, now it won't start at all. When I try to start it, the dashboard flashes, clicking sounds occur and even after pulling out the keys, the needles on the gauges shake for a few seconds.
Is this more a battery issue or an alternator issue?
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Truck : 2000 F250 XLT A/T 6.8L v10 4x4
Issue : O/D off light is flashing on the shift lever. In a drive gear (R, OD, D2, D1) there is very low power when giving it gas, more so from a stop. In P and N, I can rev the motor with no obvious issues. In O/D, I can't even get forward momentum going from a stop when on a slight incline. When on flat ground and in O/D, flooring the gas only gets me going a few MPH and RPMs don't go above 1500ish. When selecting 1st or 2nd, the truck still struggles a bit from a stop but does get up and going.
What happened leading up to the issue : I was on the freeway driving about 80MPH without cruise control se,t and with O/D on as usual, when the blinking O/D off light caught my attention. Not knowing at the time that this was a transmission problem light, I started pushing and holding on the O/D on/off button to try and get it to stop. Probably about a minute later, I realized I was losing speed even when giving more throttle so pulled over to the shoulder. I shut the truck off and restarted it, noted the Service Engine Soon light was now on, then I put it in O/D and gave it gas but only got going a couple MPH which it sounds like the engine was choking/struggling. I then tried D1 and D2 and, while still struggling a bit from stop, was able to accelerate up to 35+ MPH.
OBDII Codes:
P0743
Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid
Circuit Electrical
P0750
Shift Solenoid A
P0755
Shift Solenoid B
P1747
Pressure Control
Solenoid A Short Circuit
P0443
EvaPorative Emission
System Purge Control
Valve Circuit
P0135
O2 Heater Circuit
(Bank 1. Sensor 1)
P0155
O2 Heater Circuit
(Bank 2. Sensor 1)
Troubleshooting : Transmission fluid check looks good (full and red)
Checked fuse 23 of the Central Junction Box
Held a ground wire to bottom of Transmission pan and to the frame while I started the truck, O/D light still flashing
Wiring looks good coming to the plug on the driver side of the transmission
More info:
- No "Service Engine Soon" or blinking O/D off light prior to all this happening.
- I don't believe I'm getting 1st gear. I don't recall if I got my speed up to 30+ MPH while in D1, but while in D2 I never noticed a shift from stop to ~35MPH. At 35MPH, my RPMs were around 2500 I believe.
- While cruising at 35MPH in D2, shifting to O/D results in lost power. I had to stay in D2 all the way home.
To do (I believe):
1. Check shift solenoids (looking for DIY info)
2. Check shift solenoid pack (looking for DIY info)
3. Check TCC solenoid (looking for for DIY info)
It sounds like there are a couple shift solenoids to check as well as a solenoid pack (how best to check these out, I'm still looking for)?
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had a problem with their OD light blinking and shift problems. This past week my od light started blinking and when I shifted into drive, it was stuck in overdrive. When I shift into 1st it would go to 2nd and stay there. So basically I had 2nd and overdrive. I started replacing sensors like the VSS, and checking the wiring warness. Took it to a transmission garage and they told me it was toast. Then I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new tranny. After replacing the tranny it did the same thing with the same codes showing. Then I got smart and checked the fuses. Of course it was as simple as a blown fuse causing all the trouble. In my truck it was fuse 23 under the dash. A 20 amp fuse that was listed as engine control. Im not saying that in every case if the OD light starts blinking it's as simple as a fuse but in my case it was, so lesson learned. Always check the fuses first.
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My Ford 250 Super Duty, it is a 2008 model. I can't get it to start and the anti-theft light keeps blinking. At least i think it is an anti-theft light, a blinking red lock on the instrument panel. I bought this truck from an auction so I don't have a manual, neither do I have a key set with the push button stuff on it. Just 2 electronic keys. Someone suggested unhooking the battery overnight, and someone else suggested pressing the valet button. I found a button under the dash, I have no idea if it is the right one.
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