Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F350 - AC Freon Leak On Passenger Side Near Compressor
Apr 2, 2015
Seems like my 2001 f350 7.3 has an ac freon leak on pass side near compressor. AC is blowing coolish air but not cold like is should be. There is green like oil around main line leading out of ac compressor. I have attached several pics to illustrate situation.
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I had a new engine put into my 2006 F350 SD 5.4 last year and ever since then I can't keep the freon charged in my ac. The mechanic said all he did was lay the compressor out of the way and didn't disconnect anything ac related. I have 2 different shops keep my truck for a couple days and neither could find a leak. Yet a month later, freon is low. I think I have more dye in my system than freon.
I put 2 of those ac leak sealers, the ones you have to ask for behind the counter and can keep my ac working for maybe 45 days, then throw 3 cans in it. No dye is showing up nor will the sniffer find anything. I hate to go to the dealer because I figure they will want to replace everything. Any tips other than try another shop and maybe they can find the leak.
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Of course my freon all leaked out of the AC compressor and it is squealing pretty bad. I did not want the serpentine belt to break due to a seized compressor so I looked for a bypass pulley kit. Naturally they make one for both gas engines, but not for the diesel. So out comes the string and sharpie, and trips to 2 different auto parts place to get the correct length belt after trying several that were too short. It's 103 inches (8 groove) for future reference to bypass the ac compressor and upper extra pulley. 7.3 diesel.....
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Alright, after finally fixing my 4X4 issues, now I have a coolant leak. It's on the passenger side, just above the exhaust downpipe. I can't find any leaks in the hoses, and as far as I can see it looks like it's coming out of the back of the head and running down the back of the block. The odd thing is there's no oil in it, and no coolant in my oil (which obviously is a good thing), but I don't want it to get to that point of it is getting worse. Heat works fine, and it isn't overheating, only losing maybe a gallon a month. At some point the ford gold stuff was flushed and it has the compatible green, that is the only thing I can tell is not stock. I don't want to tear it down if I don't absolutely have to.
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My power door locks just started acting up. The driver's side switch will not do anything. The passenger's side switch will lock both doors, but it will not unlock them. Is this a switch issue or the actuator? I am assuming the issue is on the drivers side only and am leaning towards the drivers side switch. With that said, I read about a lot of issues with actuators on these truck which makes me think it may be the actuator? Would the doors still lock if the actuator was toast? If it would, why doesn't the driver's side switch work? I tried replacing the driver's side actuator but it made no difference. I also swapped the driver's and passenger's switches and it does the same thing. The passenger locks only and the driver does nothing.
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How to take the panels off? I need to remove the passenger srs module for the light bulb repair. It's a 2003 F350 XLT SWR 4X4.
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1999 f250 with some mild upgrades. Trucks got 189,000 miles. Stole it from an older guy for 4k. In fantastic shape. As the weather got colder I noticed an exhaust leak. Took it to a muffler shop only to find that it's got an aftermarket header on the passenger side only. Is that common to replace only one side?. the gasket has gone bad and needs replacement. I wanna replace both headers?
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Should I attempt to replace the passenger side manifold with what I can get from Napa. I would rather pay 100 bucks for everything and do it myself. But, Im concerned about replacing the studs. From what I have read the studs seam to be the problems for most leaks on these vehicles. I have torque equip. and other tools to do the job. Just want others opinions about this project. How hard really is it? 1999 5.4L F250 SDuty....
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Ok so I got a good deal on a used F350. When I got it home I found the heater was stuck on defrost. I posted on here a few weeks ago with questions on what could be wrong. From that post I learned that my front passenger side hub is stuck locked in. I pulled the vacuum lines at every connection from the pump on and had good vacuum all of the way to the passenger side hub. I turned the axle shafts and found the drivers side is free the passenger side is locked.
I flipped the dash switch and heard the drivers side hub lock. Then I turned the axles again and found they were in fact both locked in. I flipped the switch back to 2H and the drivers side freed and the passenger side was still stuck locked in. So I pulled the passenger side hub off of the truck and found it was seized up. I put it back together and locked both hubs in manually until payday when I can pick up a new hub.
Yesterday we had a lot of ice! Where I park the pickup the front wheels drop into a low spot. I could not get backed out of my driveway with the front wheels in the hole and the rear wheels on ice, so I flipped the switch to 4x4 and tried again. It still could not pull out, the front wheels didn't seem to engage. Now I am thinking I have more troubles than just the one hub stuck locked in.
So, my questions now are, 1 if the passenger side hub is bad but both are locked in it should still go into 4x4 correct? 2, the 4x4 light on the dash lights up when I flip the switch. If I had a bad switch or fuse would I still get the same result (light on and drivers side hub clicking in)? Does this pickup have to move a few feet before it engages the 4x4 or should it click right in? And finally what is a short explination of how the 4x4 system works. The dash switch engages the solenoid on the firewall to switch vacuum down to the hubs but what else does it do? I assume it has some kind of switch or motor in the transfer case that engages the 4 wheel drive?
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The mirror on the passenger side is not folding in/out anymore. It happened a few times before but only for a very brief period... it's now been 5 days... so I am thinking it's dead...
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I have a 07 6.0L and the other day while cleaning it out I noticed that the carpet on the passenger side was wet. I have never noticed it before so this had to recently start. I don't think its heater core related as its completely clear and doesn't have a smell to it. I am also not loosing any coolant. The truck only has 18,300 miles on it,and it sits most of its life until recently after I took it over.
It has never had the windshield replaced,to be honest nothing has been replaced. I don't believe its a/c drain related either, the hvac controls have been in the off position for the last 2 weeks,and just 3 days ago after drying the carpet out completely(with a fan), its wet again after a nights rain, not as wet as before, but its damp.
And last night it was pouring down rain and I had the carpet pulled back to dry/air out, so I thought I would go out and take a look to see if i can see water coming in. Sure enough there are 2 trails of steady water flow. Its coming from directly under the glove box, there is a silver canister that is held on by 2 screws, its dripping down 1 of those screws. I cant quite make it out where its coming in from, but i am thinking the blower housing.
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My 2000 f350 is leaking oil from a bolt on the passengers side valve cover. it is one of the bolts on top of the valve cover. Can I just remove the bolt and put a rubber washer under it or do I need a new valve cover?
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I have a 2005 F350 XL Heavy Duty 6.0L truck that has 68,XXX miles. I recently changed the rear brake pads and about a week later the rear passenger side is leaking brake fluid. The fluid is slowly dripping from the bottom caliper bolt but i am not sure if there are seals in this area. the driver side is fine and the fluid is only leaking from the bottom caliper bolt not the top.
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I have a 1999 F350 and the passenger side front door suddenly will not open with the inner handle but it will open if I roll down the window and open it from the outside. The inside seems like it is locked but the locks are all working fine and all the other doors are working just fine .....
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I found water under carpet next to door. Appears to be coming from area above center of vehicle. Only occurs during rain etc. Not from A/C or heater housing.
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I was driving from home to work the other day and it was 6 degrees out. My heat was working good and everything was fine and then all of a sudden the passenger side started blowing cool air. Not cold not warm. Driver side was still hot. It is a lariat and has dual temp zones. Everything I read everyone says blender doors but what would make it stop working out of no where when everything was fine. Occasionally when I start my truck and turn the heat on it makes a popping noise under the dash when the blower kicks on. But it has done this since I owned it an never had an issue. It's 25 below today and I would really love to have completely functional heat. It's an 2008 f350.
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I have a 2001 f250 last night we had a good rain and this morning as i was backing down the driveway water came running down the passenger side floor board from under the dash i cant seem to find where it came from on the inside and can not find any standing water under the cowl where could it be coming from?
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The driver side wiper shaft on our '01 F350 is slipping/ stripped and we cant find anything online about this. Does the whole shebang need replacing? Is there an easy fix?
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Trucks compressor kicks on and off and won't stay on no cold air at all do i have a leak ? The truck came whit a new canister that mounts in front of the air box could it be that?
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I just brought home an 04 F350. It is a V10, 6 speed, with 30,600 verified miles on it. It runs and drives fantastic, and that V10 is impressive! I am very impressed. I have noticed that the compressor cycles, even with the dial in the off position. Is this normal for the super duty, or is something amiss? If something is wrong, what direction do I look in?
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2001 f350 4x4 dually 7.3 powerstroke, I recently replaced the hub assembly, stub shaft and seal, u joint, ball joints on the front drivers side and now periodically the truck makes a grinding growling vibration coming from front drivers side and stops after hitting a bump...
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