Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F350 5.4 - Free Rev Over 2500 RPMs - Engine Or Trans?
Mar 3, 2015
Truck: 2001Ford F350 5.4 auto 4x4
Issue: Engine seems to free rev over 2500 RPMs. Barely hits 50 MPH. Revs fine in park, no power in gear. At 1/4 throttle it will move, but sluggish at best. Once you get around 2500 RPMs it stops accelerating and just revs. Does this in every gear, and gets worse the faster you go. feels like its stuck inbetween gears almost. No CEL's
Replaced: MAF, TPS, Trans fluid and filter, fuel filter, cleaned intake system, fuel system treatment, O2 sensors. Trans fluid was dark, but no burnt smell.
I'm about to pull the exhaust and look for a clogged cat.
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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I have 99 f350 v10 4x4 and trans shifts great under light rpms but 2-3 shifts very hard. At wide open from about 35 mph it will shift down and take off like a bullet but wont shift until I lift my foot and then it bangs hard from 2-3. All other gears are smooth. I did some searching and have found some threads saying it could be an accumulator spring that is broken? Truck has 115,000 miles on it. love the truck but want to fix this before it does some damage.
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I have an isspro sensor that I need to install on my 4r100. I have it all installed except for the actual sending unit. My question is where is the best place to put it?
I've watched multiple YouTube videos and it seems a lot of people use the test port on the driver side above the linkage. I found out the hard way that it is a very poor choice of location. A lot of people say that the best way is to drop the pan drill a hole and weld in the bung? I was wondering would it be possible to put it on the "out" line on the transmission oil headed to the cooler? 01 f-350 7.3
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I replaced the sensor on top of the water pump and the gauge still doesn't work. I tested the gauge by unplugging and grounding out the wire and the gauge goes all the way up. What I can try next. I didn't get a Motorcraft sensor so I'm going to go get one of those tomorrow hoping the duralast wasn't correct even though it looked 98 percent identical to the original. 7.3 lite diesel.
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I have an '06 F350 dually with a 6.0 diesel. I bought this used about 5 years ago and for the most part have loved it. i would always smile on the inside when i heard people bash the 6.0...i thought i got lucky....until today.
140k miles. recent oil change. all is swell...until this morning. Stick in key and turn it. glow plug indicator comes on...all lights come on for a few second....wrench, abs, dtc etc....wrench shuts off...glow plug light comes on...4 or 5 seconds later wrench light comes back on....turn key and NO CRANK.
All fuses are fine...starter cranks if i jump the solenoid...but it won't start. Miles to empty and everything else is just dashes hit the OBD and it says "engine sensor data error"/ "trans temp error" ...
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I have a 1999 f350 v10 stock truck. It has plenty of power when it's cold out or raining or I'm on backrooms or highways but if I drive through town on a hot day the transmission kicks bad I have changed the fluid and filter, it also seems to shift at a high rpm from 2nd to 3rd. Unless I you let off quick and go back on kinda like engaging a 2 speed rear end. Does it need a bigger trans cooler or is the trans shot
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2002 F350 Super Duty 7.3 Diesel.Transmission trouble. Came off interstate - took foot off throttle at yield and hit gas as turn was clear. Did it fast and felt like hit wall. Immediately lost transmission engagement. Trans did not reengage until below 20 MPH. Tried to speed up and disengaged at 20 to 25MPH - just free wheel - engine wine. Went to 1st gear and would come up normally. Shift to 2nd and could get up to 30MPH and probably higher - didn't push. Shift to drive and trans disengage. No trans fluid leakage and level looks good and clean. What to look for? 126K miles.
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I was driving to the store today and about halfway there the truck kept the same rpms but I was losing speed. The wrench lit up on the dash, checked the tuner (nothing out of the ordinary) so i pulled into the nearest parking lot and shut her down. The tuner is just there for my dpf delete and is set to "no power" or stock settings. It's a bully dog triple something or other. I don't race the truck or work it very hard for that matter. Basically a work truck that hauls more people than trailers.
Lifted the hood, checked the tranny fluid level and the stick was dry as a bone. Thing is, it's winter here and i haven't noticed any transmission fluid leaks anywhere ever. I'm gonna head to the local (two hour drive one way) parts store for fluid in the morning with my dads truck.
I'm wondering where it went? did it burn up or leak out and I didn't notice? Just wondering where to look first when i get it back home. Or did i simply fail in my maintenance checks (i admit i change my oil and fuel filters religiously but haven't checked the trans fluid) and it ran out??
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2001 F-350 4x4, 5.4 automatic.
Where to start , check engine light is on. Nothing seems wrong , trucks running good , nothing happened , just the light. I kinda like the truck so I would like to find out what its issue is?
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What are the normal running temps for the tranny of a 2012 f350 6.7?
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2001 f350 7.3 diesel and I come up with the codes for upper and lower dual generator fault. I have only one alternator not the dual.. I checked the gauge and it is running at 14 consistently. But the service engine soon light keeps coming on...I clear them and they come right back... Alternator is only 2 years old and not a rmf..
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I have a miss at high rpms.. I pulled this engine, manual trans, and 4x4 axle and put them in my F350 Majestic motorhome. 156,000 miles on the engine. Slightly dusted engine with good compression 375-400 (cranking and corrected for altitude). Has a little bit of a long start.
No smoke on start up unless 10 degrees or colder
No smoke when pulling either.
Glowplugs ...Good
GPR... Good
Checked resistance from IDM to injectors ...Good
History of some ether for starting before I got my hands on it. I have AE with the ford enhancement. But I am new to working on a powerstroke and new to AE.
ICP ...new
CPS...new
Oil ....new
EBP...new
Installed a pressure gauge to the drivers side upper port on my fuel bowl:
60 psi at idle
55 psi at WOT 2500-3000 rpms under a load
HPOP stabilized pressure is 2750 @ 40% duty cycle
Truck still misses (semi-intermittently) at higher rpm with a load.
Rechecked codes KOEO: None present
I visually inspected valve movement while running (idle). Did the buzz test when cold.... All injectors sounded the same when tested individually.
Did a cct when not completely warm:
P0266
p0272
Repeated the test at normal operating temperature:
P0266
Torque values on rocker arms bolts and injector holds are good. Fuel quality isn't an issue since this problem has remained for 5 tanks of fuel. What I should do next?
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The trans temp guage on my '08 F-350. V-10 started acting erratically, and the wrench icon popped up on the display. i crawled under the truck to look for the sending unit and it's lead. i assume that i found the lead. it is encased in a corrugated sleeve, and appears to be a vaccuum type tube and boot connector? the boot still had a small round gray cap plugged into it. it appears that the cap was never glued (go figure) upon assembly. i have tried to reach up on top of the trans to find the sending unit to figure out the best angle of attack. i can barely touch it with the tip of my finger. going with mechanical guages is out of the question at the moment, so i'm wondering can it be driven any distance this way, AND any schmooze tricks developed to get at the sucker without dropping the cross member or exhaust????
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I recently bought a 2001 f-350 xl 4 door with the 8 foot box it has the 5.4L triton v8. I was heading to a job up in northern Alberta about 10 hours away from where I live. On the drive I lost control of the truck on some black ice I was doing about 50 miles I went into the ditch but nothing crazy drove right out after. Now my truck won't do over 30 mph the engine starts to sputter and back fire I loose all my power, what's going on. At idle she revs fine but as soon as I put her into drive it's like she wants to die what can it be?
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1999 F350 7.3 Super Duty surges when going uphill with a load. The only time we drive it is when towing the horse trailer - also has a camper on.
The truck doesn't physically surge, just the RPM gauge goes up and down and along with it a humming noise.
Also, What conditions should I engage the towing button on the end of the gear shift? I've heard several answers. Should it be engaged when towing or off?
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With the tranny in neutral and clutch out is when it is the loudest. With the clutch in their is 0 noise. The sound is a spinning clacketing sound best I can describe. The clutch is 2yrs old and was installed by a local shop using all OEM parts, the fluid level is perfect and looks brand new. The sound has come on gradually over the past 6 months but now can be felt thru the floor at the top of the gears as a rumble. The funny thing is that their are no performance issues like grinding,popping out of gear,hard shifting,etc.
This is not rolling gear mesh it is very loud clacking clunking sound coming directly from the tranny, not the transfer case, nor rears or u joints. This is standing still. Sometimes it will be a little less loud if I roll to a stop in neutral with the clutch out as opposed to gearing down to a stop push clutch in goto neutral and letting clutch out.
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The left Warn Premium hub has started rotating out of the Free setting, this seems to happen at or near highway speeds. A tell tale sound is then produced, I assume from the splines contacting. It does not rotate all the way to lock. There seems to be less resistance on this side now than the other when locking. Hubs have been installed for 3.5 years, problem started a few days ago, haven't been locked in a couple months.
We've had torrential rains for the past week with no end in sight due to the tropical storm bearing down on us so I figured I'd ask here first before pulling the hub in the rain (no garage).
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I have a 2001 Ford F250 V10 crew cab, I am getting trans fluid in radiator. i have had radiator replaced. it was good for about 3 months.
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I need fixing my 2003 f350 6.0 diesel, I have been working on this truck for a while and still am having problems, here was the original symptoms:
-Hard start or no start on a sunny day
-Rough idle for 10-15 minutes
-Rough shaking in the low RPMs (35 mph)[/COLOR]
-Slow response from the gas pedal
-boost would only get to 14
My dad and I then did many things to the truck in the shop, those things are:
-Air test and replacement of coupling going into oil branches (next to HPOP)
-Replaced EGR valve (no good)
-Replaced ICP sensor (leaking oil)
-Replaced ICP sensor and IPR valve piggtails (due to frayed wires)
-Cleaned Turbo
-Cut MAP sensor hose and reattached it (spliced on the end)
-New battery
-Performed a bubble test and found two bad injectors on passenger side (injectors #5 and #7)
-Cleaned and lubed tops of injectors
-Replaced O rings and copper crush washers on all injectors
-Replaced nipple cup O rings (tight)
-Blew out injector cups
-Bubble tested after injectors put back in (no more bubbles)
-New FICM, EGR cooler and oil cooler were already installed
-Ohm'd main engine wiring harness (good to go)
-Taped up frayed wires on fan clutch connection
-Increased wire gauge on the positive jumper between both batteries
-Sanded each ground on the batteries and engine, cleaned battery clamps, lithium greased connection points.
-Checked fuel for air (no air)
-Checked fuel psi (85 psi, plenty)
-Oil changed
After doing all of this (diagnosing as we fixed each thing) we now fixed many things including the hard/no start problem. Now, for the first three to five minutes:
-It starts right up
-Runs perfectly, no shake and instant response from the gas pedal and turbo
-Boost goes to 28
-ICP is 800-950 on idle
-IPR is 25-26.9% closed
After five minutes however:
-Starts to shake
-IPR % starts to raise
-Received no response from gas pedal (absolutely no power)
This truck has been torn apart like 8 times and I have to do it on my spare time.
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I have a 06 f350 with 5.4 140k miles. Recently it has been shaking bad on idle but only in gear and it's hard to start when cold. The exhaust is moist at all times and the fluids never leak. When you floor it it hesitates feels like it's overly rich but if you let off a little it stars to pull again. Also while cruising at 1500-1700 rpms in any gear it will surge and skip. Only time it will miss and the CEL comes on is over 4000 rpms for a random misfire. Just put new coils in new fuel pump and filter. There has always been a cat code but it never effected the drivability. Could it be injectors?
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