Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 Not Going Into Gear
Jun 14, 2015
Having trouble with the truck going into gear. It started by having to put the truck in first and manually shift until in drive, once it finally engaged and would drive normal. But now im having trouble with going into gear at all. What could be the issue????
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I may be going to look at a 2001 F250, 4x4 with a V10 engine tomorrow. I think it is a shop truck for a business. The owner said that the mechanics told him that the trans won't shift out of low gear. It is an automatic. Maybe something as simple as a modulator valve (do they still use them)?
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I have a 2001 F250 V10. It idles around 1k and when stopped at stop lights or when put in reverse it stalls. I have replaced IAC, fuel filter, tranny filter, oil filter, plugs, coil boots, tranny fluid, oil, air filter, and PVC along with the PVC hose. I'm totally stumped. It doesn't stall if I do a rolling stop.
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Friend's truck started shifting wierd the other day, starts in second gear (maybe higher). The transmission is a fresh rebuild, the shop wouldn't warranty the rebuild and blamed electrical problems outside the tranny. Fuses are all good, engine light is on but the cheapo code reader won't show a code. Did a search and no answers. Had the overdrive light flashing from before, that code was for a wheel speed sensor.
1999 F250 (7 bolt) 5.4L 4x4
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I have an issue with a truck I just bought. Sometimes, it doesn't go to Park when I shut it down. In order to start it I have to sometimes put it in neutral. Once in a while it will start when in the Park gear. What I should look into to fix it? It doesn't seem like a big deal.
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I have a 1999 F-250 V10, I went to get into my truck to go to Lowes and only to learn I forgot my wallet. Here is where my problem lye. I came back home and decided to wait until the next morning to go back to Lowes, so I go to get in my truck cranked it up and went to put in reverse and it didn't move. It is like it is in neutral; so I went and put it in drive and still, it would not move. It is like it is in neutral. I can not figure out what is going on with my truck.
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Kevin here, and I'm a newbie. I recently purchased my first 4x4, a 99 F250 with ESOF. Last night I had put it in 4high for a rough road turn-around and then flipped the switch back to 2H, the 4x4 light didn't go off. Then when I got to the house (about 1/2 mile), it rolled when put in park and now it won't go into any gear.
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Friend parked his well working truck and when starting it up after sitting a few days it won't shift into any gear. Lever moves as normal but the truck won't move. A soft clicking sound is the only difference to be noticed when shifting the lever. where to start? Temps are below freezing here if that matters.
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I have an 03 f250 5.4l that I've been having some problems with. When the engine is cold it will drive fine and everything. When it warms up, if I go to put it in gear it just dies right away. Why?
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I just went from 3.73 to 4.30 gears on my 2007 f250 6.0. It has the standard Sterling 10.5 rear and Dana 60 front. My mechanic friend who did the swap said the ABS light came on during his test drive but the truck drove fine. I was of the understanding that the truck would not need to be recalibrated for proper speedometer and transmission function, but what about the ABS?
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I recently purchased a 00 F250 psd 4x4. Other than doing all of the fixes it needs to make it ride better I have been questioning the trucks "get up and go" and the EXTREMELY sensitive skinny pedal. Truck seems to pull very hard and puts out some black smoke under hard throttle but nothing like the really tuned trucks I have seen. But the skinny is so sensitive its hard to drive under 40mph in 3rd and once it gets up to 55 or so its real sharp getting on and off the throttle. Trans shifts great, TC locks and unlocks, truck runs awesome IMO but just a bit harsh. Is there a way to find out if it was tuned prior to me buying it other than inspecting for a chip, or is this the way they are and I just have to get used to it more...?
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I recently purchased a 04 f250 with the 6.0l powerstroke. I drove it for about 3 weeks now, Ive put my trailer behind it with small loads and just today tried to use the tow/haul button. When you go to pull out the tranny never shifts from first gear?? Its pulls and runs fine until you push the buttan and no shifting........
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When I "step on it" on the freeway or even a moderately inclined freeway ramp, it bogs down and actually takes a few moments to cover. Sometimes will leave me crawling at about 20mph for a few minutes. Engine revs just fine in neutral. If I very slowly build up speed I can cruise at 75mph, but forget passing. Also, this came along at the same time a severe shaking/shuddering spell started. Not always, but often it is shaking the entire body and certainly through the steering wheel. Was so bad the first time I stopped to see if I had a flat. Usually lasts until I slow way down and ease my speed back up. Had the front end steering structure replaced about two years ago, so I don't think it is that. What is the cause of the bog down and could the shaking be related? This truck sits for 2-3 weeks at a time and then I drive for about 50 miles and park it again. Can Michigan gasoline go bad that quickly?
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I have a 1999 ford f250 5.4 2 wheel drive i believe its a 4r100 transmission. auto. I have reverse but no forward gears. Ive heard this is a common problem , and on my reverse it has to hit 3000 rpm before it even tries to move and D 1 2 i have nothing only thing i hear is the engine sound changes gets deeper. Do i need a whole new transmission or is this fixable.
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Okay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?
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Ok I bought this truck with a bad engine 5.4 3v had rod knocking. I rebuilt engine got it all back together and in truck. I did replace cam phasers and solenoids. After driving 20 mins or so it would start the phaser knock at idle in gear so I put a oil pressure gauge on it and cold had 55 psi after running 10 mins or so had 15 psi at idle then would drop to abought 9 psi. I am thinking I got bad cam bearings or something for some reason don't know why. I did it but I took oil cap off where you pour in the oil. Had to force it off it was pulling that much vaccum ones cap was off oil pressure jumped up to 25 psi. What could be causing this.
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When passing or going up small inclines on freeway, my F250 seems to make the shift to the passing gear but then almost a complete loss of power. Jerks around for a few seconds and finally provides enough power to at least get back to the original speed. (It feels kind of like the lurching, etc. I used to get when those stinking GM diesel injectors would act up in the 1990's.)
It also stays in first/second as I punch it while entering the freeway and doesn't want to make the shift. I can put it in neutral and race the engine, so I don't think it is an engine problem, unless the transmission is electronically controlled. I have a lot of computer dashboard gauge resets after falling to zero and sometimes have to set and release the parking brake to get the auto door locks and windows to work. (That started after a car break in where the door electronics were apparently pinched, but that was a couple of years ago.)
Does it sound like the transmission or electronics? In the old days replacing an automatic transmission filter seemed to fix a lot of transmission issues. Not an option now, but would I expect to see any results doing a transmission flush and fluid change? It's probably been about 60000 since I had that done. (157000 now).
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I have an intermittent problem with my 09 F250 Diesel. A few times now under hard acceleration I have had the trans seemingly get stuck in 3rd gear. The little service required wrench symbol showed up on info screen but after shutting off the engine no codes were present. A week or 2 later this happened again and I ran diagnostics through my Spartan tuner and got P0771 and P2704 for codes.
Again they cleared when I shut the engine off. Since this is an intermittent problem, only after hard acceleration, would it make sense to change tranny fluid, maybe do a tranny flush? Or am I off to the dealership for a rebuild?
2009 F250 Lariat Crew Cab Short Box
Spartan DashDaq
S&B Cold Air Intake
4" Flange-back w/6" Can
Package by Dirty Diesel Customs-Red Deer Alberta
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My truck: 2001 F250 V8 Triton Automatic 4x4
Problem: 4x4 won't engage
Symptoms: No dash lights....nothing happens when I turn the 4x4 switch. When I start the truck I hear what sounds like a motor (transfer case motor maybe?) trying to switch (even though my dash switch is on 2WD)... It tries three times and stops.
What I've done: Checked fuses ...they appear ok to me
I don't have a maintenance manual yet ...
The 4x4 used to work up until about 2 weeks ago. Started having a hard time getting it to go into (and out of) 4x4 and then it just stopped all together.
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I have been leaking oil on one of my work trucks. I do not know what the part is called or named. the leaks seems to be coming from above or behind a part that the driver side motor mount. As you can see in the image, the part has a sensor and a concave dip that runs along the middle of it. Well, I stuck my fingers behind that and it has a dip on the other side too which face up and that dip was puddled with oil. I need to know what that part is called or named or what is directly behind it that can be causing the leak. I hope its just a gasket and it is not cracked.
Part that is leaking behind. 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty V10
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I have an 01 f250 superduty bed is rusted what is the difference on a 04 f350 superduty dually bed to mine? Are they finished under the dually fenders?
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