I just got a 2001 F250 with a Rebuilt V8 5.4 with 310,000 miles about two months ago I changed the oil about three weeks ago. I put full synthetic 5-20w and I went to check the level today and it was way low. I see no leaks and I don't see it mixing with the radiator fluid. Is this normal might it just be burning oil ? I do drive the truck at least 100 miles a day.
View 7 RepliesMy '03 V10 F250 gas with 135k miles on it went from showing weird fuel levels last week, showing low when I just put $40 in it to now being absolutely below empty, pegged as far south as it can get. I have a CEL light on too but my OBD test shows, "N/A 01-01". So all I can think is that there may be an open/short circuit that the OBD cannot diag.
I replaced my fuel pump about 2 years ago with a replacement AutoZone unit and all had been fine since then. I just do not remember if the fuel level sensor was part of the pump itself or a separate item. If it's a integral part of the pump I should be able to go back to AutoZone and get a warranted replacement.
Is there anything I can test a forehand before either pulling the tank or doing a dump-truck again?
I'm planning on doing a 2" level. Will I need a drop pitman arm, or can I stick with the stock pitman arm? Will I need anything else? I plan on doing the level when I replace my coil springs and shocks. (I have another thread on that). I'm driving a 2000 F250 V10 2WD CC SB (twin I-beam front axle) if that info is pertinent to this question.
View 2 RepliesI have had the truck just under a year. It has 104k on it i only drive it on weekends. Last weekend going to Home Depot about 15 miles got out and could smell brakes burning. Felt the wheels and the right rear was very hot. Got back home no smell but still hot not as hot as earlier. Pulled the wheel off it looks as if the pads and calipers are fairly new paint is still on them caliper is a TRW. The pads were stuck in the carrier even the stainless clip ends look rusted.
Cleaned it all up both sides lubed the pad carrier with pin lube. Pushed the calipers back in some both sides went in easy. The right rotor has definitley been hot. Put it all back together and went for a test drive. Came back no problems checked the temperature with a laser type heat thermometer all wheels were around 140 f. Went out yesterday morning stopped and could smell the brakes again. Drove it back home and the right rear was 300 f. others 150 to 160 f.
Jacked it up put it in neutral and the you can spin the wheels by hand. Started the truck had the wife get in put it in drive wheels turning applied the brakes they stopped let go they turn freely again tried the parking brake it works fine also. So do I buy new calipers and brakes or maybe is the wheel bearing going bad causing the brakes to heat up?ied.
Okay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?
My truck: 2001 F250 V8 Triton Automatic 4x4
Problem: 4x4 won't engage
Symptoms: No dash lights....nothing happens when I turn the 4x4 switch. When I start the truck I hear what sounds like a motor (transfer case motor maybe?) trying to switch (even though my dash switch is on 2WD)... It tries three times and stops.
What I've done: Checked fuses ...they appear ok to me
I don't have a maintenance manual yet ...
The 4x4 used to work up until about 2 weeks ago. Started having a hard time getting it to go into (and out of) 4x4 and then it just stopped all together.
I have been leaking oil on one of my work trucks. I do not know what the part is called or named. the leaks seems to be coming from above or behind a part that the driver side motor mount. As you can see in the image, the part has a sensor and a concave dip that runs along the middle of it. Well, I stuck my fingers behind that and it has a dip on the other side too which face up and that dip was puddled with oil. I need to know what that part is called or named or what is directly behind it that can be causing the leak. I hope its just a gasket and it is not cracked.
Part that is leaking behind. 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty V10
I have an 01 f250 superduty bed is rusted what is the difference on a 04 f350 superduty dually bed to mine? Are they finished under the dually fenders?
View 3 RepliesHaving trouble with the truck going into gear. It started by having to put the truck in first and manually shift until in drive, once it finally engaged and would drive normal. But now im having trouble with going into gear at all. What could be the issue????
View 8 Replies2001, F250, Lariat, Super Duty, 7.3 engine with towing package.
It ran seemingly perfect when I parked it and it sat for maybe 10 days to 2 weeks and wouldn't crank. Battery is fine and fully charged. Glow plug heaters work OK. Engine spins really fast, almost like it had no compression. (Not sure though) Temperature in the 30's -50's. I did some research on line and decided to change the Cam Positioning Sensor (CPS). Didn't work, still won't crank. I originally tried my Cheap Harbor Freight OBDII . (Don't waste your money, IMO). What should I troubleshoot next/ or try.
I have a vibration in my 2001 f250. At about 45 to 55 it vibrates. I have changed u joints in the rear drive shaft. Pulled it again tonight. U joints look good, no play. I am going to pull the front shaft and see if it makes a difference. I did notice some play on the rear shaft where it slides. Could this be causing the problem?
View 4 RepliesHow to diagnose misfire with no CEL? 2001 F250 5.4. What could cause it?
View 13 RepliesCruise won't power up. Tried entering diagnostics but did not get any flashes. By-passed switch on master cylinder, did not make any difference. Horn honks. Brake lights work correctly.
View 9 RepliesMy '01 f250 7.3 has gotten hard to start. It seems to maybe be due to cooler weather, but not always. I have been told that there is some sort of valve in the fuel tank that could possibly cause this when the fuel gets around a 1/4 tank or so. But, it's doing it at any fuel level. But it doesn't do it all the time. I do notice it more in cooler weather. Anyway, when I try to crank it, I'll let the "wait to start" light go off and then wait a bit more. I'll turn it over and it almost as if the batteries are weak.
I'll stop and give it a few seconds and turn it again and it will normally start. But sometimes I'll do this 5 or 6 times and it will finally fire. But the more I have to try, it's like fuel builds in the cylinders and it smoke like a coal train for a minute or so. Almost like gas motor that has been flooded. But the smoke burns off and it runs like a top. I was thinking the batteries may be weak , but sometimes the starter will spin the motor with no trouble at all. I'm at a loss. Is it possible for fuel to drain from the system causing it to have to reprime itself? Here lately the smoking has me concerned even though it clears up.
I have a 2001 F250 V10, 150,000 miles, gas, very basic truck (no power windows, no cruise, no security system, no power locks, etc). In it's previous life, it was an IDOT highway truck I purchased at auction in 2005. Used primarily to pull horse trailer, less than 2000 miles per year. Stored under cover when not in use. Windshield leaks very little, but generally not used when raining.
Last week, 9pm, horn starts blaring solid tone. I go out and unlock door, open door, it stops. I start truck, still fine, turn truck off. Lock door, close door, starts blaring again. I reopen door, leave unlocked, close door, then get intermittent beeps. I reopen door, disconnect battery because it's late, I was going out of town, and felt bad for my neighbors. Just got back in town, too afraid to reconnect battery and not be home in case it starts going off again. I had last used the truck about 36 hours before the horn started going off, weather about 70 degrees overnight.
I've read other threads, but can't find one that fits (I have no cruise, kept out of rain, not freezing cold, not diesel).
Replacing the evaporator? I am just curious how big of a job it is. I have the a/c equipment to service the system. Its on my 01 f-250 with a 7.3.
View 6 RepliesIts a 2001 f250 with a 5,4. I just recently put a new shot block in it, the short block is a svt short block for an 01 lightning. every thing off old motor went on new svt block just fine, and it drop in just fine. only it will not warm up i let it run for 45 min the other day and on the gauge it would not come past the c. and i do believe the gauge to be accurate because the heat in the cab sucks and the top rad hose is just warm, not as hot as it should be. I've already put 2 new thermostats in it so I don't believe that to be the issue either.
View 14 RepliesI have a 01 f250, owned it for about 8 months now. Have done a ton of work to it, replacing all worn out parts. It's a v10, replaced so far is ball joints, all tie rods, steering dampener, front sway bar links and bushings and Monroe gas Magnum shocks all around. My biggest problem is the wandering in steering. I put a 2.5" add leaf spring pack to front when I first bought it. It has stock bullet whole wheels and new Firestone's destination a/ts. Also. Tires have been rebalanced and are smooth until I get to 60+mph, its a swirling ride after 60mph. Could I have bad wheel hubs or do I have an alignment issue? Planning to replace hubs with Napa hubs since I did everything else and I'm sure there bad with 236k miles on truck.
View 8 Replies2001 f250 5.4L v8. Engine temp seems really low. The gauge is reading barely above the cold in normal range. The heater is only blowing out 75 degree air at the warmest. It gets to its normal temperature with in 15 minutes even when its real cold out. I live in Minnesota and its been a really cold winter so having hot heat would be nice. I just bought this truck at the beginning of the winter. Whats going on?
View 14 RepliesI just replaced the head lights on my 2001 f250 it had the sealed beam one-piece glass headlights and I replaced those with regular headlights and when I went to get bulbs I found out after I get home the connector is different from the new bulbs. the new bulbs fit correctly but I can not hook plug them the plug has 3 connectors that have two connectors level and one is higher than the other two and the new bulbs the three prongs are level.
My question is. is there another bulb that will fit and plugin and if so what is the part number? is there a adapter that I can get that will allow the factory plug to work? or will I need to cut the old plug off and splice a new connector on?
My 2001 F250 2WD does not have the steering damper that my 2004 F250 2WD has. Is that normal or is my 2001 missing it?
View 1 Replies