Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 V10 XLT - Some Buttons On My Radio Quit Working
Apr 15, 2016
Funny thing - had the truck in the body shop for several weeks and when it went in, everything worked. Got it back, and some of the radio buttons don't work. These are rocker style buttons, and when I push the AM (left side) that works. Press FM, and it won't go to FM. Press the right side of the tuning button, and it won't go up the dial. Press the left side, and it will go down. Same for cd. Left side of button goes backward through the tracks, but right side won't advance. Bass/treble button: Press bass (left side) and that works. Press treble (right side), and nothing.
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I took my truck in for Maryland State inspection on Monday and got my truck back and the radio no longer works. I checked the fuse on both the back of the radio and the main fuse box and both fuses are still intact. I'm not really sure where to go from here. Any recommendations?
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I just bought a 2007 f350 lariat and my radio, pwr Windows and the 2 lights beside the dome light don't work either... it looks like there was a new relay put in recently.... Is this some kind of wiring problem or where to start looking..or what might be my problem... I am clueless when it comes to wiring .
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My overhead display quit working earlier this week. The truck has 120k miles. Is this display on it's own fuse? I only used it for the outside temperature readout but I would really like to get it working again.
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2004 F250. Just got about 6 inches of snow. I use this truck to plow my private road. A few other residences on the road rely on my plowing.
I usually use 4WD Low and gear 2 on automatic transmission to plow. Hub manually locked. But today, when I shifted to 2, and pressed on the gas pedal. The truck was not engaging to drive, as if it were in park or neutral. And when I tried to shift to park, there is grinding noise and wouldn't allow me. I had to turn off the engine to be able to shift to park.
When I manually freed the hub and used 2WD High and gear D, I was able to drive the truck without problem.
Later, I tried using 4WD Low and gear D, and was able to drive a little distance before the truck no longer drives, and pressing on the gas is as if the truck was in park or neutral.
Previous to this earlier, I was driving down the private road to see how much snow we got. Without the plow on, I might have gone up to 10 or 15 mph, and still using 4WD Low and gear 2, maybe for 1/2 mile. Could I have damaged something by driving too fast in that setting?
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I have a 2002 F250, 5.4 extended cab 4x4. Factory lights. I have no turn signals. They were working just fine and without turning off the truck, all 4 corners quit working at the same time, as far as I know. The indicator lights on the instrument cluster don't work. I have checked/replaced all fuses. Replaced the switch lever and the blinker relay behind the dash. The hazards do work and always have. It might be coincidence but I believe the back-up lights quit working at the same time.
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I have a 2000 f250 with auto/manual locking hubs and today the 4x4 quit working. The light comes on the dash and the drive shaft and u joints turn but the front wheels don't turn even when its locked in. I assume its the hubs? And when I am going down the highway about 75 the front starts making a hellacious noise but stops if I slow down is this connected?
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2004 F250 Crewcab 4x4 5.4 automatic.
My speedometer quit working - stays on 0, my odometer stays on 271006.5 miles. Everything lights up, when I do a gauge sweep, the speedometer goes from 0 to full blast then back to zero. On the gauge sweep, my odometer states off all the code stuff like I think it's suppose to.
Anyway, I was lucky enough to get a speeding ticket - driving with the flow of traffic, with the police officer behind me for a mile or more. Pulls me over, explain my speedo just went out, he said he can't let me off but the judge might. So I'm trying to fix prior to a court date.
Here is what I have tried so far.
1. Replaced the VSS in the axle - no change to problem.
2. Replaced the sensors on top of the tranny (2 of them) - no change in problem.
3. Sent the cluster off to a repair shop - they said it worked when it left there shop - no change in problem.
4. Replaced the battery - thought it might have a dead cell. - no change in problem.
5. Unhooked the battery, turned on the headlights, waited 30 minutes, put it back together. (did this probably 5 times) - no change in the problem.
6. Replaced the diff fluid. - no change in problem.
7. Replaced the front left abs sensor on the hub - the existing wire looked like it had rubbed on metal - possible short? - no change in problem.
So far I've just been what seems to be time and money at it with no luck.
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I just bought this truck and for some reason sometimes the power windows and radio will not work for awhile then it will start working. I replaced the relay on the accessory and I still have power to the dome lights and instrument cluster. I am kind of at a stand still on this matter. I have read that there is quit a few problems like this and not very many explanations to resolve it.
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I just changed my batteries in my truck. Twas the originals still in it. Afterwards, everything works except the radio. I tried everything and no radio. The clock is there when I press the On/Off/Volume. When I press the phone, the display says "no phone". But otherwise I get nothing. I can't even get in the menu to set the clock. I checked the fuses related to the Amp, Subwoofer, radio, Satellite, etc. I did not see anything in the fused under the hood that could be related.
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I have a 2001 f250 5.4 triton. My cb antenna hole leaked water in cab, soaked my fuse block. Horn goes on and off, radio turns on without key in ignition, truck only starts when key is on and I bridge solenoid, and number 4 coil is not firing. I have let truck dry out, fixed the leak. Everything is bad to normal except starting issue and coil issue.
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I have a 2001 F250 with 7.3.... We swapped the auto for a zf6 manual.... We left the auto's shift position sensor tied to the frame and left in neutral. I did install a pcm from a manual transmission pickup. Also have the clutch position switch hooked up. I have an Edge Evolution CTS2 reprogrammer, and on the display the gear indication always shows P. I suspect that is why my cruise doesn't work. For interests sake, I tried manually adjusting the shift position sensor through all gears, and the reverse lights come on when in reverse but the Edge's display always shows P. My question is with a manual transmission, how does the pcm know that it is in gear? The only sensor that I am aware of is the reverse sensor on the zf6.
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I've just bought 2001 f-250 crew cab and when I push the cruise control on the steering wheel it does nothing. Maybe a fuse or does my year have one of those master cylinder switches?
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Just got a 2001 F-250 Super Duty (crew cab, long bed, 4x4, 7.3L turbo diesel) and have been going through and fixing a lot of little issues. The one that now has me stumped is the interior lighting circuit (which is also the bed light). Here's what I've got so far:
Map/reading lights work, but dome lights do not (neither automatically nor when turning them on via the dimmer switch). Verified all fuses in the PDC as well as the interior fuse panel (behind the driver side knee panel). The interior lighting relay was missing, so I purchased and installed it.
Relay #1 (interior lighting), fuse #4, and fuse #14 are all good - when I pull the fuse with the door open, the relay clicks (and clicks again upon reinstalling the fuse). With the doors closed, the relay clicks when activating the interior lights via the dimmer switch.
The LT GRN/YEL wire is hot, and all related accessories work (map lights, engine bay light, etc).
The BLK/LT BLU wire is not receiving power from the relay from what I can tell.
Before I start trying to pull out the fuse panel to start checking connectivity, anything else to check? The ground at the rear driver corner of the cab is good, and a visual check of the harness running down the driver side of the cab has no visible signs of damage.
Also, given that the relay is audibly actuating the way it should, I'm guessing that the GEM can be ruled out as a possible cause? My next step will be to get a pinout diagram for the relay and crimp a quick jumper to see whether or not it's simply a defective relay... But I doubt it's the case.
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My air conditioning on my 02 is having a issue, when you first start it and run the ac all is well and it cools perfect but then after a while it will quit working all together no more cold air, shut it off for a bit then it starts working again and repeats the process, charge is fine, been doing this all summer, it verys on how long it will work somethings for 5 minutes other times 40 minutes give or take, any thoughts?
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2001 F-250 7.3. The auto lock hubs are not working on the truck lock hubs in and all works fine. First thought is the vacuum system has a leak or something of the sort. Had truck at the shop they are telling me the GEM module controls the vacuum to engage the auto hubs and the signal is not coming from the GEM and it need to be replaced. It was the GEM causing the problem.
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Troubleshooting a problem with friend's 2000 F250. His power windows aren't working and are causing problems with his door locks and interior lights. When he tries to use his drivers side power window, his power door locks quit working. If he puts the switch to raise, the interior lights flash. From what I've read, it sounds like the GEM to me, we've inspected the wiring and it all looks good. I pulled it out today and it looks good inside, no sign of water leaks on it. If it is the gem, how much do they cost and do they require programming?
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I have an 2001 F250 SD with 7.3 Diesel. Headlight switch failed and I replaced it. But now I have no high beams and my dash lights that light the dash up don't work. Gauges, fog light, low beams all work fine. Fuses checked. Multi function switch checked. What to do next?
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My drivers window will not work at all but when I push the button I get a clicking in the fuse box. The other 3 windows partially work but will only go up or down in small increments. I have tried holding the button and slamming the door and this allows the other 3 windows to work. I thought it was the switch so I replaced it and that was not the problem. Fuse and relay seem to be fine. If it was just the driver window I would think it was the lift motor but with the other 3 windows on the fritz I have no clue.
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I have f250 1995 idles but when I press gas it quits....
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I have a 2001 F250, 5.4, 4X4. My ignition key stuck in the start position and when I pulled it back to the run position, everything seemed ok. As I started down the road, my speedometer stopped working and my overdrive light was flashing. Also my turn signals had stopped working and my A/C clutch didn't engage. Figured I burnt a fuse. I looked in both the under dash and power distribution box and all seemed well. I checked the fuse for the turn signals/flasher and it was fine. The flashers worked. Thought I might have fried something so I replaced the ignition lock and switch. Also my service engine light came on throwing a code for the vehicle speed sensor.
Looking for solutions on this forum and the internet, I learned that the turn signal switch could have gone bad and the VSS sensor is on the top of the rear dif and an easy fix. Well replaced the sensor but nothing changed. So I went back to the fuse box. Examined every fuse, big and small and I found a 10a with a small space. This was #24 under the dash. From the manual, "#24, 10A, A/C clutch, Blend Door Actuator, Trailer Tow Battery Charge Relay Coil, Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS), Turn Signal." Replaced it and everything went back to normal. Turn signals work, A/C clutch works, no flashing overdrive light and speedometer works. All from a 10A fuse. If you have any of these symptoms examine all the fuses carefully. There's a 20A fuse for turn/hazard lamps and this other one buried that's only 10A.
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