Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 Truck Rolling In Park Occasionally
Aug 8, 2014
My 2001 f250 on occasion will roll a very uncomfortable distance when I put it in park. Not all the time, but enough to concern me. It will roll a good 12-18" before the park rod or what have you engages. Doesn't seem to be affected by grade. Matter if fact it has always done it on just slight grades. Nothing like a boat ramp. It rolls enough that if someone had been front or back it would have bumped them.
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This happens very often when driving around, at first it was only if i stepped on the accelerator to quickly or braked to hard, the check engine light comes on and the truck idles. Nothing seems to be wrong except when i step on the accelerator nothing happens, it lasts about 5 seconds then the light goes out and im on my way. it has started happening more and more just at random times now. it seems quicken the down time if i pump the accelerator.
Second, it occasionally feels like the transmission slips. I'll be driving and when I accelerate the rpms will go up, then what feels like the tranny slipping and the rpms go down. there is a distinct rocking motion when this happens, but it works if I turn it off and on again, or if i just step on the gas the next few miles it seems to subside.
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Pulled into parking lot this morning, 05 F250 CC 4x4 V10, truck starts dinging at me, Park brake light comes on. Ease off of gas and idle around to parking place, no sign of brake drag. Release Park brake, no difference, set the brake and release, no difference, guess the microswitch went bad. Not raining, never hit a bump, MAY have had my foot on the brake, but that shouldn't effect the P Brake.
After setting for the 12 hour shift, all is good and well. Did not come back on.
Where this switch is? Is it under the cover by the foot set or under the truck along the cable? Would like to know where to look next time this comes up. Did have 2 new tires installed on the front a week ago, new tierod and aligned at the same time.
Just wondering and curious, my last F150 had all kinds of electrical germlins in the windshield wiper arm.
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I have the gas 5.4l in my 01 F250 Super Duty. I had to change out the leaking Heater hose before I could attack this other issue. The truck starts when it feels like it. I changed the fuel filter and it started fine. Then the next day it wouldn't. Later it would. However each time it does start it dies when throttled up. I am down to thinking it is the fuel pump. My question is, because changing the pump sucks about as bad as changing the heater hose. Can I install an inline fuel pump and deal with the sump pump in the tank later? Are there any Cons to doing this?
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2001 F250 5.4 ... I'm losing my mind chasing a Gremlin. I've been having mostly intermittent starting issues with my truck. I've had the truck for a little over a year, after someone totaled my previous one.
It occasionally wouldn't start on the first attempt, but it got really bad in the last couple weeks.
I first thought it was a faulty inertia switch or wiring in that vicinity, as at one point after manually tripping and resetting the cutoff switch it would start, UNTIL I put the trim panel back. At this point I think that may have been a coincidence.
I eventually probed the switch and it tests as it should electrically.
I put in a new fuel filter and things were fine for several days, but it acted up again. That time was last Saturday. Got it to start and all was good until tonight. Now it won't go, and I've tried so many times that I can see the battery power is dropping.
Last Saturday I pulled the relays from behind the radio and cleaned 'em up real nice. Also, just to check another variable I swapped the two that matched.
I'm about ready to change the fuel pump, but I've heard so many people say they did that but the problem was something else. Not only will it costs hundreds of dollars, its cold out and we'll have to drop the tank in the driveway.
In addition to the relay, inertia switch and fuse, I have found some mention of faulty fuel pressure regulators causing issues. I'll pry the vacuum line off in the morning to see if I can detect fuel residue on the vacuum side. (There is some noticeable corrosion on the fuel rail in that area).
I REALLY want to make sure I rule everything else out before spending hours under the truck in freezing weather dropping the tank and changing the sending unit out.
On key-on there is a noise from the gas tank, but someone else listening described it as a click but no whirring.
I do hear the relay clicking behind the radio. (Also, I pulled them again tonight and put a meter to them. With 12V on the primary side, they click and the other side shows continuity on diode check, and about .2 Ohm on resistance mode.)
I went through a lot of trouble to get my spare out looking for the fuel control module before finding out my truck is about 3 years too old to have one too. What else to check?
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Iv been chasing an electrical issue with my park lights staying on. Even with the #8 fuse out and the GEM unplugged the lights stay on.
They are being powered by the #4 fuse circuit that power mirrors, glove box light and under hood light are on. With that fuse pulled the park lights go off.
Now I have to figure out how the 2 circuits are connected.
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I have a 2001 F250 V10,
So the truck drove fine yesterday had zero issues... I used my auto start as I do every morning in this cold weather, get into the truck and shift from park to drive and its like it does nothing. I can free rev in N,D,1,2. Reverse works great.
I tried switching from 4wd to 2wd, no change. Reverse works just fine. No noises, codes or anything, just doesn't want to engage...
I am assuming I have a 4R100. Could something electrical cause this? I am thinking its mechanical, but hoping someone has ran into this before.
Literally no way I would have known the trans was going bad... It's always worked fine. Tranny fluid is full, I tried unplugging the battery waiting and plugging back in, no dice.
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I have a 2005 ford f250 super duty 5.4L the problem am having is the other day I took the truck out the yard an parked it across the street. 2 hours later I went back to move it it would not start the engine just kept rolling over I did this for about an hour it still refused to start. 2 days later I tried it again it started without any problems. I put a code reader on it it said P0453 fuel tank pressure sensor. If that is going bad would that cause that problem or would it be another cause.
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I have a 2001 F-250 XLT 4x4 with V10. Truck will not start. No fuel pressure. My Haynes manual does not show ignition or fuel delivery wiring. I have found the relay box behind the radio/dash. I need a wiring diagram and info on which relay is the fuel pump relay. Want to know so I can jump relay to see if fuel pump is okay.
Truck had sat for a few weeks being ran very little, so had to jump start yesterday. Ran for about 15 min, the shut off, re-started and ran for 30 min. Truck sat for about 1.5 hours then would not start. Charged battery overnight and it is 100%.
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Got off the freeway today, driving along about 40 or so thought I smelled something hot like something burning. Stopped in a parking lot and smoke was rolling out from drivers side rear wheel. Look under and oil is dripping from inside of the wheel. Figure the caliper was hung up and got so hot it took the seal out. I can't get to it right now and the shop says I can't get in until next week, need my truck now. How long could I get by the way it is IF I take it real easy.
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I have a 2001 F250 HD gas engine. I have had this truck since 2010. I drive it only occasionally and had not driven it in a few weeks so decided to drive it the other day. I drove about 30 minutes with about half of that on the interstate. It was a fairly hot day mid 80s and I had the AC running. I parked it at a very slight forward downhill position. When I came out after 45 minutes, I saw a puddle of antifreeze in front of the vehicle. When I looked underneath the truck it was primarily dripping from the oil filter canister but also from a couple of other places. I was down about 4 inches in the reservoir. My small truck camper is on the vehicle and I had my coolant container in there.
I topped it off and traveled about 10 minutes on surface streets to my next stop.After about two hours there I came out to the truck to leave and there was not a drop. I then drove 25 minutes home with a little on the interstate running the AC and when I got home not a drop. I got up underneath it and looked all around and couldn't really see an obvious source. My neighbor is a mechanic of sorts and I asked him about it. He had a couple of theories but one involved the heater. He said to crank it up, let it warm up, and turn the heat on and see if I smelled anti-freeze. I did that and there was not a smell at all. He also said something about a cold leak.
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All the sudden got home and now my truck wont go in park. All other gears are fine. My PRNDL on dash has always been off for the last 3 years park has always shown as reverse its never affected anything! I already checked the torq. bolts and that was not it. My shifter is very sloppy so is my steering wheel. I found a 00 whole steering column with wheel and shifter but its not a early 99 will it work or fix my no park. The guy didnt know if it would fit early 99 or my no park problem.
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Last week I hauled my camper (2000 Thor Citation @ about 10,000 lbs) to Moosehead Lake. On the trip to and from I experienced a few problems. Tow/haul was engaged all three times. Trucks got just over 90,000 mi.
1) When shifting, the truck would occasionally stutter, like a gas engine when it misfires. Seemed like it would usually happen when transitioning from a slight down hill to an up hill.
2) Once, after a long up hill pull, as it crested the top, the truck slammed into the next gear, hard.
3)Once, going down hill, the trans wouldn't shift into O.D. until I took the rpm's up to 3000 then let off the throttle. No, I did not touch the brake prior to this.
Figure the tranny's gonna need a rebuild soon. What kind of upgraded parts does the wise and all knowing FTE wizards think I should be looking at? I tow the camper a lot during the summer so I want a trans that will hold up to the abuse. I'm probably stuck with this thing for a few more years.
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My 02 F250 has me baffled. For a while the truck would pull to the right when hitting the brakes and occasionally the brake would get hot. To try and remedy this I put a new caliper and hose on the right front corner a new hose on the left front side. The truck still pulled right and the pedal got spongy even after bleeding the brakes 3 times. I got to checking the rest of the brakes and found a seized slide pin on the left rear. Got that fixed and still pulling right with a soft pedal. I've checked all of the sliders and none are seized. I am lost and I cant stand the soft pedal!
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When I put the truck in to park, the doors do not unlock. They work fine with the button or the key fob. What do I need to do to fix this issue. Its quite annoying considering I have passengers with frequently that need to open the door a lot.
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I was driving my sons 99 f250, 7.3, today, pulled into a friends driveway, put the truck into park, turned it off and got out. 5 minutes later out of nowhere the truck jumped out of park into reverse like someone was in it stomping on the gas then the breaks then the gas, then the breaks. This truck took off in reverse with such force if there was someone behind it they would have been seriously hurt. I was parked on completely flat ground. While this was happening it sounded like it was trying to start and clicking very loud. It is an automatic.
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Engine light and error code for tps occasionally comes on , then stays off a while. parts store said it was ok (shows full range) , but ford has an update for computer to fix. engine is v10 and parts store erased code and it hasnt come back. the only indication that something was wrong is the light coming on and once on the interstate at high speed , then the off ramp slow down, the engine seemed to want to stall as if engine not matching actual speed for a few seconds, then it was ok again. I was out of town and the mechanic that looked at it told me to go to Ford for an update. He tested the tps and said it was ok.
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I have an issue with a truck I just bought. Sometimes, it doesn't go to Park when I shut it down. In order to start it I have to sometimes put it in neutral. Once in a while it will start when in the Park gear. What I should look into to fix it? It doesn't seem like a big deal.
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I have a new to me 2000 F250 7.3 diesel with automatic. Truck has 185K miles and tranny is starting to slip occasionally. Do these trucks come with a OEM tranny cooler or do I need to add or upgrade the OEM one. Someone also told that there is something called "bulletproofing" the tranny on these trucks. BTW, what would be a reasonable cost to have a two wheel drive auto tranny done on my truck?
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I'm having multiple electrical problems and not sure if all related or not but they started at the same time.
1) Occasionally (getting more frequent) truck acts like its almost dead and wont start, but if i remote start it cranks right up
2) Radio doesn't shut off when I open the door, but if i close it and open again it does
3) phone staying connected to bluetooth but its acting up when trying use phone for music
Pretty sure there is more but I cant think of them now.
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My father has a 2009 Ford F-250 Superduty with the 5.4l V8. Two days ago, he frantically woke me up from a nap because he could not get the truck out of park nor are the brake lights turning on when the pedal is pressed. I instantly thought Shift Interlock, did a quick google search and found that it can be the shift interlock or brake light switch on the brake pedal. I have since then replaced both to no avail as well as checking all fuses. I put a multimeter to the brake light switch connector and am getting a steady 10.2v. I am aware there is a bypass switch but that doesn't address the fact that he has no brake lights.
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