Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 - Tracking Down Strange Noise?
Oct 22, 2016
My dad just bought a 2001 F-250 Crewcab 4x4 w/V-10. 72,000 miles. Anyways i noticed a small almost exhaust leaking sound on the test drive. I had the dealership put it up on the rack so I could see the underside. I noticed that it has the famous broken manifold bolt. So I kinda wrote it off on that we would have to get that fixed soon. Anyways the noise hasn't gotten worse just now noticing it that it has set times when it happens.
It happens around 25 mph then goes away then back at 45 mph, then goes away. I am having a hard time describing it. Almost like the exhaust is building up pressure then releasing it when it gets too high. But then I starting thinking transmission something since it kinda has a delayed shift when the noise happens.To clarify I am not saying it anything to do with the torque converter. I am just rolling to find out what is going on.
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In the last few hundred miles of driving, I notice there is a strange noise coming from what appears to be the front end of my truck. It sounds similar to a buzzsaw or a power sanding tool whenever it comes in contact with an object. The noise starts at around 30 mph, stops from 55-60mph, and starts again around 65 mph. The truck rides and drives normally and there doesn't seem to be any metal to metal contact noises or clunking and the hubs dont seem to be hot to the touch. I was thinking improperly balanced tires, wheel bearing, or front carrier assembly. What it could be? The noise just suddenly started and I was wondering if I should keep driving it?
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So after this weekend's hurricane my 2011 f-250 started to making a noise when I accelerate. I don't know if water got in some where. But there's no MIL light coming on.
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I have a '16 F250 4wd with the 6.7 and approx 3k miles. There has been a strange sound coming from the front end when turning left from a stoplight. It sounds like something slides or shifts and it only happens once in a while. The noise isn't loud but you can feel it.
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I got a 2003 5.4L Auto F-250 Super-duty CC yesterday and noticed it needed newer/new tires. I found some today and got them put on. I looked when the tires were off and all the tie rods, brakes, etc looked good. After leaving the tire shop the check engine light came on, I drove about 10kms on the hwy and it seemed fine then I got into town and made a stop.
When I was leaving there to go home I heard something that sounded like a chain dragging for a second then when I braked at lights the truck started jumping kind of so I pulled over and everything still looked fine. So I drove another 5kms and it was fine except for 1-2 lights it happened again, the brakes would squeal when stopping.
Then when accelerating from a light the truck would shake and make scraping noises until I hit about 30kms per hour, this happened whenever I heard the squealing at the few stops I had to do at lights. Some lights I stopped at and it was normal. The tires that were on the truck originally were mismatched, different sized and smaller than the stock size. The ones I put on are all the same set, and are 265-75-R16. what this could be?
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Here's the deal. I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and I am getting a noise in the front drivers side wheel. The noise is not a grind or clunk, but its like a u-joint is rubbing inside an empty cylinder kind of. Anyways, it seems like it does it only with small bumps. I took off my oem hubs and re-installed them and the noise went away for about a week. Now I replaced them with manual locking hubs and the noise is back. One other thing I notice is if i put the switch to 4x4 the noise goes away. I checked all major components for the steering and suspension and nothing was loose. The front end is tight. Is there anything inside the axle that would cause this? I dont know what to check for anymore. Where else to check?
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I recently switched back over to the 5.4 from a diesel. It's a 08 F350. I have about 38,000 on it now. I have no complaints so far, a little less power than the diesel, but I don't tow much anyways. The only thing I can't figure out is a strange noise at around 2500-3000 rpms shortly before a shift sometimes. The best way I can think to describe it is that it sounds like a turbo fart in a diesel. Almost like someone is putting their finger over an air hose on and off a couple times. It doesn't do it all the time, and doesn't shake the truck, or effect the shift at all from what I can tell.
I've put it through a lot of different shifts just to see if it might be transmission related. It downshifts and upshifts perfectly without any noise or slipping, and the fluid looks just as clean as brand new. No smell or anything either. It doesn't feel like torque converter shudder to me either as i can't actually feel anything in the truck, just the small noise. To me it almost sounds like it's coming from under the hood. I'm not overly worried about it right now, because it isn't effecting the way the truck drives or shifts at all, I'm just curious what it could be.
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I've got a 2016 250 6.2l and am getting a popping sound coming from the transmission area. the following is what i have figured out so far. the noise is made just before a complete stop, just as the tranny down shifts to 1st and can be felt through the manual floor shifter 100% of the time and heard roughly 90% of the time. sound ranges from not audible to loud and is random in how loud it is. the only way it does not do this is if i come to a stop in neutral or i go slow enough as not to have the tranny shift out of first from my last stop. the only other way is if i do one of those long, slow rolling stops. truck only has 6600 miles on it. i will be taking it in at 7500 for first service and have them look at it ...
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I have a really loud whining kind of noise found that its the wheel seal rubbing on the inner part of the wheel bearing. I was just curious if its safe to drive with the spindle removed from the axle?
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Okay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?
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My truck: 2001 F250 V8 Triton Automatic 4x4
Problem: 4x4 won't engage
Symptoms: No dash lights....nothing happens when I turn the 4x4 switch. When I start the truck I hear what sounds like a motor (transfer case motor maybe?) trying to switch (even though my dash switch is on 2WD)... It tries three times and stops.
What I've done: Checked fuses ...they appear ok to me
I don't have a maintenance manual yet ...
The 4x4 used to work up until about 2 weeks ago. Started having a hard time getting it to go into (and out of) 4x4 and then it just stopped all together.
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I have been leaking oil on one of my work trucks. I do not know what the part is called or named. the leaks seems to be coming from above or behind a part that the driver side motor mount. As you can see in the image, the part has a sensor and a concave dip that runs along the middle of it. Well, I stuck my fingers behind that and it has a dip on the other side too which face up and that dip was puddled with oil. I need to know what that part is called or named or what is directly behind it that can be causing the leak. I hope its just a gasket and it is not cracked.
Part that is leaking behind. 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty V10
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I have an 01 f250 superduty bed is rusted what is the difference on a 04 f350 superduty dually bed to mine? Are they finished under the dually fenders?
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Having trouble with the truck going into gear. It started by having to put the truck in first and manually shift until in drive, once it finally engaged and would drive normal. But now im having trouble with going into gear at all. What could be the issue????
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2001, F250, Lariat, Super Duty, 7.3 engine with towing package.
It ran seemingly perfect when I parked it and it sat for maybe 10 days to 2 weeks and wouldn't crank. Battery is fine and fully charged. Glow plug heaters work OK. Engine spins really fast, almost like it had no compression. (Not sure though) Temperature in the 30's -50's. I did some research on line and decided to change the Cam Positioning Sensor (CPS). Didn't work, still won't crank. I originally tried my Cheap Harbor Freight OBDII . (Don't waste your money, IMO). What should I troubleshoot next/ or try.
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I have a vibration in my 2001 f250. At about 45 to 55 it vibrates. I have changed u joints in the rear drive shaft. Pulled it again tonight. U joints look good, no play. I am going to pull the front shaft and see if it makes a difference. I did notice some play on the rear shaft where it slides. Could this be causing the problem?
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How to diagnose misfire with no CEL? 2001 F250 5.4. What could cause it?
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Cruise won't power up. Tried entering diagnostics but did not get any flashes. By-passed switch on master cylinder, did not make any difference. Horn honks. Brake lights work correctly.
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My '01 f250 7.3 has gotten hard to start. It seems to maybe be due to cooler weather, but not always. I have been told that there is some sort of valve in the fuel tank that could possibly cause this when the fuel gets around a 1/4 tank or so. But, it's doing it at any fuel level. But it doesn't do it all the time. I do notice it more in cooler weather. Anyway, when I try to crank it, I'll let the "wait to start" light go off and then wait a bit more. I'll turn it over and it almost as if the batteries are weak.
I'll stop and give it a few seconds and turn it again and it will normally start. But sometimes I'll do this 5 or 6 times and it will finally fire. But the more I have to try, it's like fuel builds in the cylinders and it smoke like a coal train for a minute or so. Almost like gas motor that has been flooded. But the smoke burns off and it runs like a top. I was thinking the batteries may be weak , but sometimes the starter will spin the motor with no trouble at all. I'm at a loss. Is it possible for fuel to drain from the system causing it to have to reprime itself? Here lately the smoking has me concerned even though it clears up.
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I have a 2001 F250 V10, 150,000 miles, gas, very basic truck (no power windows, no cruise, no security system, no power locks, etc). In it's previous life, it was an IDOT highway truck I purchased at auction in 2005. Used primarily to pull horse trailer, less than 2000 miles per year. Stored under cover when not in use. Windshield leaks very little, but generally not used when raining.
Last week, 9pm, horn starts blaring solid tone. I go out and unlock door, open door, it stops. I start truck, still fine, turn truck off. Lock door, close door, starts blaring again. I reopen door, leave unlocked, close door, then get intermittent beeps. I reopen door, disconnect battery because it's late, I was going out of town, and felt bad for my neighbors. Just got back in town, too afraid to reconnect battery and not be home in case it starts going off again. I had last used the truck about 36 hours before the horn started going off, weather about 70 degrees overnight.
I've read other threads, but can't find one that fits (I have no cruise, kept out of rain, not freezing cold, not diesel).
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Replacing the evaporator? I am just curious how big of a job it is. I have the a/c equipment to service the system. Its on my 01 f-250 with a 7.3.
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