The tach in my 01 F250 PSD has become intermittent. It works properly some of the time, not at all some of the time, and jumps up and down some of the time.
Does it get it's signal from the CPS? It has a blue CPS that's about a year old and the truck runs fine?
I recently (2 weeks ago) picked up my first Effie, a 2004 RN F250 Supercab XLT 5.4L 4x4 auto (dual Fuel Petrol/ LPG).
One of the things I am exploring is a problem with the tachometer reading high. I read on a thread somewhere on the forum that it was most likely that the earth of the tach plug was not connected. (It was a great thread but I can't seem to relocate it)
I am still chasing a workshop manual to get wiring diagrams, etc. In the mean time, where to locate the said plug/ earth connection?
Just had a question about my 00 F250 7.3. I recently have noticed that my tachometer needle will not always move the way its supposed to. Sometimes it will sit at zero until I drive it for a min then all of a sudden pops up to where its supposed to be. I also noticed today that while i was driving it just dropped to zero for a second or two then back up to where it was supposed to be again.
When it does this there is no drivability issues with it or idle issues what so ever. Which is strange to me and I cannot seem to put my finger on what could be causing the issue. As I have searched online for a while to no avail as most of the other issues include drivability and idle issues. Also not that it matters but I have recently replace the cps sensor with a new one OEM of course but i don't think that has anything to do with this problem.
My 2003 F250 6.0 It started about a month ago and got worse. Let truck idle for 4-5minutes and idle will jump a few hundred rpms. Got worse as it idles and cant figure it out. It eventually died and died once while driving but starred right back up.
View 1 Replies2001 F250 SD, V10, Auto, 155K miles
While driving home from work I noticed the needle jump from around 55 to 70 on the display, then settle back in at 55 ish. First I just caught it out of the corner of my eye, but watched more closely, and it did it again as I drove. The tow/haul override button on the shifter was blinking also, (as if it was "Mad" about something)..
Then I noticed that the jump of the Speedometer needle was linked to when I changed from High to Low on the headlights, and vise-versaI was NOT in cruise mode The voltmeter did not EVER waver. (I thought that the increased current might be causing a temporary problem of sorts). Where to start looking?
Actually a couple of questions. I've had one oil change in my F250 6.7. Getting close to the second one. So, my question is, what is the computer using to decide when to tell you that you should change the oil? And, if you changed to a synthetic oil, could you go longer between changes? And, if so, would the truck's sensors be able to tell the difference in the type of oil being used?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford F250 with 6.4. Having alot of problems with the 4X4. Went to put the truck in 4 wheel drive one day and noticed the light on the dash never came on to engage 4X4. Of course we had a big snow storm coming and I didn't have 4 wheel drive. I drove the truck across town and decided to just try 4x4 again and it worked that time. I got the light on the dash and could hear the transfer case shift motor engage. Came out a little later and tried it and it wasn't working again. Took truck to shop where they replaced transfer case shift motor with a remaned motor from oriellys.
4x4 worked for a few weeks then just started doing the same thing again. We thought maybe that motor had problems also so had it replaced too. Truck is still doing the same stuff. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. Figured out that if its not working and I leave it in 4x4 and unhook power to shift motor then plug it back in it will engage 4x4. I've seen some post on here but sounds like everyone i've seen their motor just stops and doesn't work at all.
My 2005 F-250 6.0 liter Diesel FX4 Lariat is blowing AC through defrost only all the time. I have manual locking hubs and when I engage 4x4 it works perfectly through the ESOF switch. So I am assuming the vacuum pump and lines to the hubs are in good working order but there is possibly a cracked line or fuse blown? I've only had the truck for 2 days and it just happened after purchase. I'm a little unfamiliar with checking vacuum but have done reading and I believe I can do it. I am going to get a manual hand pump and pump to 20lbs and loss shouldn't exceed 1lb per minute. I just need to know which direction to look. Everyone else had their 4x4 not working and I seem to be the only one posting that has ESOF 4x4 capability when the defrost only issue is on.
View 11 RepliesI have a 1999 F250 Superduty with power tow mirrors. Both mirrors are having this issue. It seems both motors moving the mirrors are trying to run at the same time. I tried replacing the control switch since both mirrors are having the issue, but got the same results. Holding the switch to move the mirrors out causes it to move down and out. Moving it in and it goes up and in. I know from experience with electric on a vehicle that when funny things happen, its usually because it lost the ground.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 f250 lariat 192k no mods except k&n filter everything is stock. I have 2" pro comp level kit and a scan gauge 2 nothing fancy! Well the other day I noticed my truck was chirping like a Chirp chirp chirp...... Chirp chirp...... Chirp chirp chirp! It goes up and down with the rpm's but it's comes on and off only when the engine is up to running temps the belt does squeak during warm up but I don't think that's it, it's coming from the back of the engine I'm sure of it because I used a paper towel tube and listed right in the turbo hpop area on top of the engine but it's too hard to tell I can't find exactly where it's coming from, some people I've had listen think it's a belt or pulley or tensioner! But I'm not sure if it is because I've sprayed water, and wd40 on the belt and pulleys with no change!!! I'm afraid it's a lifter or something inside the engine yet it's too loud and pronounced to sound like it's coming from the inside! I'm just lost!
View 8 RepliesFor about 6 months the cruise control on our '09 F-250 has been intermittently failing. One time I'll set it and it will work fine, the next time I try to set it and it fails. No particular rhyme or reason to when it fails to set.
Some of the tests that I did indicated it was the brake light switch on the brake pedal arm. It seemed to work perfectly a few times that I drove it after the installation but now it's back to working when it wants to.
I had a problem with the cruise on our '06 Ranger and it turned out to be the module. It acted a bit the same way in that it would set sometimes, other time not. I don't know if the two systems are similar or not.
1999 F250 SD Ex 4x4 V10 has been intermittently not starting, both cold and warm, began last fall but only happened once a month or so or longer. Would then start after trying again either right away or after waiting a bit. Now it is doing it on a regular basis. Sometimes it will start right away, sometimes won't but if you keep trying or wait awhile it starts, sometimes using the extra key will start it right away after the first one didn't, sometimes neither one. It does not try to turn over, make any noises, no warning lights flashing, just won't start.
Now also on two occasions within the past week, it just stopped while driving. Radio, dash lights, etc., stayed on. I got it to the side of the road with the little power steering left where it started up again right away.
No codes showed up. First mechanic couldn't find anything obvious or replicate problem. Changed air and fuel filters (fuel filter really needed changed), plugs. Got truck back and it wouldn't start next morning. He checked it again and got a code related to ignition, tried the spare key and it started up. Truck back home, next day same problem.
Mechanic 2 checked, no codes, kept several days but, of course, couldn't replicate problem. I'm not even sure what all they checked, used to be an excellent repair place but now they seem to only really on diagnostics and throw up their hands, very disappointing. Replaced solenoid and starter last year myself. Otherwise, have had no problems until this.
I have a 1999 f250 super duty with the 5.4 Triton motor with a 5 speed. I bought the truck a couple months ago, and it had a bad manifold leak (not surprised lol). but it ran fine just noisy. So i had a shop do new gaskets and bolts. Then my problems started.........
When you start up the truck she runs fine and some times drives fine. I will be driving along and its like some one hits a switch and i suddenly loose all power it spits and sputters and i have to down shift to make any kind of hill.
So I figures I had a misfire i got a light on for cylinder 5. So I decided to change all coils and plugs hoping that would clear things up...... well it didn't. It ran great for roughly 15 miles then it started to do the same thing again. I've changed air filter and fuel filter also.
When it starts sputtering i sometimes get a check engine light on and then it goes away. when the light is on the codes are:
P1151 A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.
Read more at: [URL] ....
P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2
Read more: P1152 FORD Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2 | AutoCodes
Both codes come on together always. but it will go away when the sputtering clears up. I just checked fuel pressure its at 32psi at a idle.
I have a 2002 F-250 7.3. I was driving home from work on Tuesday (highway), I heard an intermittent noise coming from the front end, sounded like a rubbing/grinding noise. Yesterday on my way to wok, same thing, on and off. Yesterday on my way home the noise was constant, didn't go away. The noise comes at about 45mph and stays until I'm back under about 45mph, so mainly just on the highway. I put the truck in neutral and let off the pedal and the noise is still there which tells me it isn't engine related.
Yesterday after work I jacked up the front end, spun the tires, no noise. No play in the tires top/bottom or side/side. Took the tires off and what I did notice is the right axle u-joint is shot. I am hearing the noise in 2wd so I don't know if its the u-joint that's making the noise. Could it be a bad wheel hub bearing? Is it the u-joint? Maybe needle bearing??
My 2014 F-250 is having a repeat problem with an intermittent cell engine light. About 10000 miles ago it happened, and they changed out the egr cooler. Saying it was gummed up with soot. Problem just started up again. Light will stay on for about 3 or 4 restarts then sir off on its own. It's this a known issue with the 6.7? Is there a way to prevent it?
View 7 RepliesLooking for some info on wiring up some Day Lights Running Lights on a 2016 F250 with diesel engine? Thinking of adding LED lights to front of vehicle for day time use.
View 13 RepliesI've got an intermittent Trailer Wiring Error message that started appearing with a trailer connected on my '11 F250.
Brakes and lights work OK on the trailer, I thought I had read on the board here that there was a TSB for this, but I cannot find it.
My 2005 Ford F250 6.0 diesel CLIMATE CONTROL DEFAULTS TO DEFROST mode all the time now. For some reason I'll turn on the AC and it is either already in defrost or changes to it no matter what I do. Is the head unit in the dash the problem or is it a vacuum leak or an electrical issue?
View 2 RepliesMy truck is a 2003 f250 / 2wd automatic, 7.3 powerstroke, 284000 well maintained miles.
Just last week I sprug a large oil leak and had to replace the hoop outlet o rings..problem solved. This week I can drive 15-20 miles on the freeway and the truck starts to act like ota running out of fuel. Bogs down to 40mph then starts missing. I pull over, and when revving I have un burnt fuel and oil smoking out of my tailpipe. I let it sit for 5-10 minutes and it will be fine for the rest of the drive and this happens intermittently, there is no pattern.
The truck has a ton of power, starts great hot or cold. I did a ton of research and found a IPR could possibly cause this, as could plugged screens in the fuel pickup. Then I read about all the injector harness issues but I don't think that I my issue.
I just bought this truck,2013 f250 CC Lariat 4x4. The sliding rear windows opened and closed 1 time and has never done it again. I have read about the motor and cable setup breaking and needing to be replaced. I do not think that is the issue. I have also read that the channel the window runs in needs to be lubricated on a regular basis. I was going to try that first. What is the recommended lube for these window channels?
View 2 RepliesMy tachometer hangs out around the 600 RPM spot when I first start my truck, but lately it will end up dropping to zero when idling, and then bounce up to about the 200 RPM point when accelerating. Its not the Cam Positioning Sensor (I had that happen with my 99 7.3) and this truck runs great. I am thinking it could be at the tach.
Question is: Where does the Tachometer signal generate and does the PCM do anything with it before it sends the signal to the Tachometer? The reason for focusing on the Tach is since the engine runs and idles fine, then that tells me the PCM is receiving the correct signal from the engine and making changes accordingly. I read about a 5.4 gas engine with rain issues, but the only issues going on here is extreme cold (tonight, -15). I keep the truck garaged and when I go out, it is for purpose and then return home to a heated garage.