Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 - Rear End Slip / Bump When Initially Starting From A Dead Stop
Mar 19, 2003
I am experiencing what feels like a "bump in the rear" when initially starting from a dead stop. It feels like a car behind me tapped the bumper or that the truck "hunkers down" first, then moves. Tranny seems fine also. Once moving, there is no problem whatsoever. There atre no noises, leaks, or other symptoms. Also, when coming to a stop, it feels the same way just before the truck completely stops. If I drift forward a little, then apply the accelerator, it does not "slip" or hunker down.
Took it to the dealer and they claim that they can't find anything wrong and may just be the suspension releasing? The truck does this whether loaded or not?
2001 F250 CC Lariat SB 7.3
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I have a new to me 2000 F250 7.3 diesel with automatic. Truck has 185K miles and tranny is starting to slip occasionally. Do these trucks come with a OEM tranny cooler or do I need to add or upgrade the OEM one. Someone also told that there is something called "bulletproofing" the tranny on these trucks. BTW, what would be a reasonable cost to have a two wheel drive auto tranny done on my truck?
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I have for the 4th time in a little over a year developed another issue with a rear caliper hanging up last year i ended up replacing both rear calipers with reman. from NAPA. 3 months ago i had to replace the right rear again. Now currently i am having the left rear starting to hang up again. I've done a fluid flush and everything. I'm kind of at a loss. I don't normally have this much trouble with brakes. Some of the symptoms that go along with this are a spongy pedal and inconsistent brake feel just like when you have air in a line.
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I've got a 2008 f-250 extra cab. A small bump will cause the rear driver side door to pop open. What I have to do to fix it, I don't want the grandkids falling out.
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I have a 2001 F250 V10. It idles around 1k and when stopped at stop lights or when put in reverse it stalls. I have replaced IAC, fuel filter, tranny filter, oil filter, plugs, coil boots, tranny fluid, oil, air filter, and PVC along with the PVC hose. I'm totally stumped. It doesn't stall if I do a rolling stop.
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How can I tell if I have a limited slip in my '01 F250 4WD? I need to know if I need the additive for the gear oil.
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Is there an easier way to fill the rear end on my '01 f250? I have a gadget with a valve on it with a length of tubing that you put on the bottle, but you still have to snake the bottle up through the chassis.
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Ok I have a 2001 f250 SD with 7.3 and my rear bumper is dented and badly and warped. The steel frame mounting part of it is straight and fine. I found a "kit" on eBay that has just the end caps and plastic top cap for a 2008+ style trucks. Would those caps and plastic fit on my frame mounted section (what the actual name for the part that the chrome bumper actually screws into that mounts it to frame) ?
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My F-250 super duty has a bump thump when I stop if I release the the brake it goes thump bump? Does not do this if I put it neutral. Seems to do this in Acceleration from a stop, shifting goes bump sometimes, When hitting rough roads does not seem there bump thump suspension issues?? Already greased the drive spline joint the same, checked if there is anything loose nope, checked spare tire secure , 75,000 miles stock shocks?? something in the transfer case?? The rear end just had the seals replaced??? Tranny is secure??
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A few weeks ago I noticed what seemed like a "slip" in my automatic transmission. Only happened a couple of times and I thought maybe it was just me imagining it or I didn't have the shift selector lever firmly in "D"rive. Then I went on a 4,000 mile trip pulling about 3,500 lbs. on mostly flat roads but it did include some 7% grades in the hilly parts... the truck performed flawlessly.
This is probably not related but ... after I got home, the truck sat for a few days and then I noticed a coolant puddle under the truck. Traced it down to what appeared to be a slow drip from a bad squeeze clamp on the large, lower rad hose connection. Replaced the squeeze clamp with 2 worm drive clamps and no leaking issue since.
Then last night, the tranny seemed to "slip". My short run across town started out OK. However, when I arrived at my destination, the diesel motor would rev to around 2500 rpm but the truck barely moved forward. It eventually did shift into second but also with high revs. It was the same feeling as if it were a manual tranny and you were giving it lots of throttle but only letting out the clutch a little bit (i.e. riding the clutch). This happened a couple of times last night. Also at a stoplight with the brakes on firmly, the truck was gently and rhythmically "rocking forward" as if the tranny was not fully disengaged.
When I worked through the gears shifting manually, the problem seemed to disappear and the truck responded going through the gears normally. Upon restart about an hour later, tranny shifted fine both in the city and at highways speeds on the way home.
B-I-L commented "sounds like your clutch is slipping". Not exactly sure what he meant as I had to leave. I'm hoping this will be a simple fix/adjustment and not the dreaded mechanical diode failure leading to a replacement tranny. Truck only has about 75,000 miles on it.
I'm suppose to head out on my annual vacation next week carrying a 3,500 lbs. truck camper and pulling a 3,000 lbs. cargo trailer with our gear. Obviously if the truck is sick, this trip can't happen. I know some of you would dive right in and start taking the tranny apart to repair it ... What is wrong with my transmission and what I should be doing next?
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I have a quick question. I am gonna change the fluid in my 01 f250 rear end. it has 410 gears and a limited slip diff. if i use full synthetic gear oil do i have to add the limited slip additive or just the 75w-140 full synthetic gear oil.
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I am working on my Dads 01 super duty with a 5.4, automatic, and the pinion bearing has seized up due to a lack of fluid from a rusted out rear diff cover. The tag on the diff cover had a 10.5 stamped on it and has 12 bolts. Is this known as a ford 10.5"
I have changed gears and pinion bearings in a Dana 70 before is this the same process? What are part numbers for a new pinion bearing and seal? Gears are in fine shape.
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When I am driving and hit a bump in the road, especially when the rear tires contact it square. I hear a clunk at the rear end. Sounds like suspension, loose tailgate...
My truck is a 2016 F250 Crew Cab Short Bed. It has a factory installed fifth wheel hitch. I have looked at the obvious, spare tire, loose bolts... I removed the tailgate and it still makes the sound. I removed the insert in the receiver, still makes the sound. No goose neck ball in fifth wheel hitch. Checked bed bolts. Cant find it. Drives me crazy.
I also have a 2008, exact same truck, 200,000 miles, no clunking. I have driven in my friends 2014 F350 Crew Cab Long Bed, it clunks. Dealer pulled a new truck off the lot today, took a drive, it clunks. Dealer can't find it and confirms there is a clunk.
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. My truck has developed a "clunk" for lack of a better term when accelerating from a dead stop. It is not a shudder as it only happens once within a few seconds of depressing the accelerator and then goes away until the next time I stop moving.
It feels like either something in the drivetrain is not engaging right away, or something is releasing, like a stuck caliper or something. From the way it feels and what I've read so far about the TC/Trans, I'm assuming it is something worn in the drive-shaft/rear diff.
But it needs brakes badly (already have all new rotors & pads ready to install) so maybe a caliper is sticking when depressed and then popping loose under initial acceleration? I think this is unlikely but possible.
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My Superduty recently started clunking when I accelerate from a dead stop. The harder I hit the gas,the harder it clunks. I unbolted the driveshaft from the rear end and the yoke slides easily. Tranny mount looks tight. Could it be the front driveshaft? Sometimes when I brake hard and the truck comes to a complete stop it will do it too.
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My trouble is upon turning key to start everything goes dead (no power to anything). Does not always happen, sometimes she starts just fine.
After the power cut out if I turn key off, wait a minute, then back to on position she will sometimes come back as normal or sometimes the on "ding" will chatter and dash lights will be dim.
I have checked batt connections, starter/solenoid connections, block ground connection. All seems fine. Get same problem when I jump starter with screwdriver. Been suggested to me ignition switch to blame.
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Like the title says, if it sits over night the battery will be about dead. The cables were replaced 6 months ago and are in good shape. I could not find and bad spots on the wires I can get to. One odd thing to note, with the key out of the switch I opened the passenger door to check the glove box light and the truck started chiming like I had opened the drivers door with the key still in the switch. Would that indicate maybe the key switch could be the issue?
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I have 2002 F250 4x4 with 5.4 V8. It has auto locking hubs. If I haven't used the 4wd lately I have to manually lock the hubs in, right side sticks, so I have to use pliers to lock into place. After a few times it works in auto fine. Anyway my issue. I went to use my 4wd so I manually locked the hubs, hopped in the truck and flipped it into 4wd. When I did the instrument cluster died. Radio, power windows and locks, turn signals all work. I just don't have any speedo, tach, fuel gauge, water temp, battery, no odometer. All went blank. I checked some of the fuses that I thought it could be from the owners manual but still no luck.
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I pushed the Tow/Haul button on the gear shift and my instrument cluster went DEAD. Have checked the 3 fuses labeled instrument panel (F4,F35,F41) and they look OK.
2003 F250 6L diesel .....
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I have a 2002 f250 7.3 with a dead pedal and gauges. This has happened to me once before checked fuse 45 and it was blown. I didn't know that the po used a 30 amp fuse when it should have had a 15 amp. I replaced it with a 30 not knowing. Well coming home the other night it happened again gauges dead and pedal. Checked fuses all were good. Found this site and read about the cause in the shifter. Took that apart and fixed the wire that was broken in half. My question is what else is fried now from having a 30 amp fuse in while it was shorting out since I have no gauges and gas pedal.
2002 f250 banks six gun
banks 4 inch exhaust
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My 1999 f-250 7.3 has been sitting for months, and I went to start it and both batteries are dead. Replaced both batteries and at first the alarm went off like normal. Turned the alarm off, hit the unlock button and it beeped like normal. Got in and stuck the key in the ignition and tried to turn it over. Completely dead. Now I cant even get the alarm to go off, showing no signs that its even getting any power. And all I'm hearing is a low clicking noise in the cab.
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