Thought I'd ask a quick question here...
Is the lens on OEM fog lights removeable? Mine is fogged up and discolored, so was wondering if the unit comes apart where I can clean & reseal ?
Or just buy a new set ?
I have a 2003 F250 Lariat with the OEM power mirrors with the turn signal on them. I let someone drive my truck and they hit something with the mirror and broke the plastic lens. The mirror housing itself is fine. I can't find just that lens anywhere!
View 7 RepliesIv been chasing an electrical issue with my park lights staying on. Even with the #8 fuse out and the GEM unplugged the lights stay on.
They are being powered by the #4 fuse circuit that power mirrors, glove box light and under hood light are on. With that fuse pulled the park lights go off.
Now I have to figure out how the 2 circuits are connected.
Just got a 2001 F-250 Super Duty (crew cab, long bed, 4x4, 7.3L turbo diesel) and have been going through and fixing a lot of little issues. The one that now has me stumped is the interior lighting circuit (which is also the bed light). Here's what I've got so far:
Map/reading lights work, but dome lights do not (neither automatically nor when turning them on via the dimmer switch). Verified all fuses in the PDC as well as the interior fuse panel (behind the driver side knee panel). The interior lighting relay was missing, so I purchased and installed it.
Relay #1 (interior lighting), fuse #4, and fuse #14 are all good - when I pull the fuse with the door open, the relay clicks (and clicks again upon reinstalling the fuse). With the doors closed, the relay clicks when activating the interior lights via the dimmer switch.
The LT GRN/YEL wire is hot, and all related accessories work (map lights, engine bay light, etc).
The BLK/LT BLU wire is not receiving power from the relay from what I can tell.
Before I start trying to pull out the fuse panel to start checking connectivity, anything else to check? The ground at the rear driver corner of the cab is good, and a visual check of the harness running down the driver side of the cab has no visible signs of damage.
Also, given that the relay is audibly actuating the way it should, I'm guessing that the GEM can be ruled out as a possible cause? My next step will be to get a pinout diagram for the relay and crimp a quick jumper to see whether or not it's simply a defective relay... But I doubt it's the case.
I have a 2001 f250 v10 lariat ext cab. i was going to get wood the other day down a muddy road. My radio went out and all my running lights. i replaced the fuse radio and now the switch. Still nothing. Could it be a bad ground? i ran a jumper wire on my old switch and they worked then just stopped again. if it is a bad ground where would it be located.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 f-250 that has dome lights that work on occasion. Mostly don't work. The inside dash dimmer won't turn them on. And they will sometimes work with the rear doors opening. Not the front(4 doors). The cargo light comes on all the time. So I don't know where to start chasing.
View 9 RepliesI have an 2001 F250 SD with 7.3 Diesel. Headlight switch failed and I replaced it. But now I have no high beams and my dash lights that light the dash up don't work. Gauges, fog light, low beams all work fine. Fuses checked. Multi function switch checked. What to do next?
View 1 RepliesThe rear tail lights on my truck have been out for a while now. I wasn't doing much driving at night so it wasn't much of a bother but the new job is getting me home a little later and having to drive with my hazards on is getting old fast.
My radio wasn't working either and I disconnected it a while back hoping maybe it had something to do with my lights shorting out but no luck. It remains disconnected. Just in the past few days my front running lights have went out as well.
I've tested all fuses multiple times (and replaced a couple of them) and checked and replaced bulbs. My brake lights, headlights, dash lights and hazards all work fine. I have the trailer light hook up on the rear bumper and disconnected it at the wiring harness as well hoping it was the problem but it wasn't.
Okay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?
I read in a thread about how fog lights need the auto light sensor or something in the kit to be installed and flashed.
My truck is a 2012 f250 XLT that I bought left over from a podunk town IN illinois. It does not have fog lights but it Does have automatic head lamps. So Im very confused on what kit to order to add fog lights to my truck.
I have an 04 F250 with no brake lights. However the third brake light works. I've also noticed that my trailer brake lights don't work either. I do have all my turn signals and running lights. Another issue that could be connected is I have one out of four hazard lights. When I push in the hazards my front passenger blinker works but none of the others. Could this all be due to a relay switch?
View 14 RepliesBought an 04' F250, looked good but definitely not well maintained. Have replaced tranny temp sensor, thermostat, fuel filters, air filter.... Etc. heads have been redone and new studs installed , Egr delete, new oil cooler, flushed cooling system. Now tonight coming home noticed the brake lights aren't working, all 3 are out... fuses are good. I've heard multifunction switch or brake switch.....
View 12 RepliesI have a 07 f250 and wanted to change them to the 08-14 tail lights. Did Ford change the size or a simple switch...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 F250 super duty and I cannot figure out what is wrong with my 7 way for trailer lights. I have brake and turn signals but no tail lights. I have checked all fuses and relays and they are fine.
View 4 RepliesMy truck: 2001 F250 V8 Triton Automatic 4x4
Problem: 4x4 won't engage
Symptoms: No dash lights....nothing happens when I turn the 4x4 switch. When I start the truck I hear what sounds like a motor (transfer case motor maybe?) trying to switch (even though my dash switch is on 2WD)... It tries three times and stops.
What I've done: Checked fuses ...they appear ok to me
I don't have a maintenance manual yet ...
The 4x4 used to work up until about 2 weeks ago. Started having a hard time getting it to go into (and out of) 4x4 and then it just stopped all together.
I have been leaking oil on one of my work trucks. I do not know what the part is called or named. the leaks seems to be coming from above or behind a part that the driver side motor mount. As you can see in the image, the part has a sensor and a concave dip that runs along the middle of it. Well, I stuck my fingers behind that and it has a dip on the other side too which face up and that dip was puddled with oil. I need to know what that part is called or named or what is directly behind it that can be causing the leak. I hope its just a gasket and it is not cracked.
Part that is leaking behind. 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty V10
I have an 01 f250 superduty bed is rusted what is the difference on a 04 f350 superduty dually bed to mine? Are they finished under the dually fenders?
View 3 RepliesHaving trouble with the truck going into gear. It started by having to put the truck in first and manually shift until in drive, once it finally engaged and would drive normal. But now im having trouble with going into gear at all. What could be the issue????
View 8 Replies2001, F250, Lariat, Super Duty, 7.3 engine with towing package.
It ran seemingly perfect when I parked it and it sat for maybe 10 days to 2 weeks and wouldn't crank. Battery is fine and fully charged. Glow plug heaters work OK. Engine spins really fast, almost like it had no compression. (Not sure though) Temperature in the 30's -50's. I did some research on line and decided to change the Cam Positioning Sensor (CPS). Didn't work, still won't crank. I originally tried my Cheap Harbor Freight OBDII . (Don't waste your money, IMO). What should I troubleshoot next/ or try.
I have a vibration in my 2001 f250. At about 45 to 55 it vibrates. I have changed u joints in the rear drive shaft. Pulled it again tonight. U joints look good, no play. I am going to pull the front shaft and see if it makes a difference. I did notice some play on the rear shaft where it slides. Could this be causing the problem?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford F-250. I have checked power to the rear harness and all is good except for the tail/running lights.
Is there a fuse for the tail lights? I have checked the manual and don't see one called out. And the relays under the hood are labeled stop lights/turn signals and those are working fine.
I will see if I can trace the brown wire from the rear harness backwards, but it may be a simple fuse.