Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 - Hard To Start
Oct 6, 2014
My '01 f250 7.3 has gotten hard to start. It seems to maybe be due to cooler weather, but not always. I have been told that there is some sort of valve in the fuel tank that could possibly cause this when the fuel gets around a 1/4 tank or so. But, it's doing it at any fuel level. But it doesn't do it all the time. I do notice it more in cooler weather. Anyway, when I try to crank it, I'll let the "wait to start" light go off and then wait a bit more. I'll turn it over and it almost as if the batteries are weak.
I'll stop and give it a few seconds and turn it again and it will normally start. But sometimes I'll do this 5 or 6 times and it will finally fire. But the more I have to try, it's like fuel builds in the cylinders and it smoke like a coal train for a minute or so. Almost like gas motor that has been flooded. But the smoke burns off and it runs like a top. I was thinking the batteries may be weak , but sometimes the starter will spin the motor with no trouble at all. I'm at a loss. Is it possible for fuel to drain from the system causing it to have to reprime itself? Here lately the smoking has me concerned even though it clears up.
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Been driving my 2001 f250 7.3 4x4 with no problems then started noticing it lacking power so I changed fuel filter and air filter. After a week goes by I was at work and I was leaving to come home so I started truck to let warm up and it cranked longer than normal but started. Let run about 10 minutes idle nicely when I punched it it bogged down and had no power never died. I idled over into parking lot and power came so I took off again loss all power again, still never died. Got it right back to my work sat there a bit and tried again this time I took it easy and was able to get my truck home 30 so miles.
When I got home I ran codes p1211 came up for the icp sensor I changed it did not change anything still had same problem. This was a Saturday afternoon to evening issue. So sunday I played around with it just checking out info online and test driving it seem to run ok but still lacking power. Let it sit till Monday I went out to start it had to cycle key 3 time before it started idle nicely then died would not restart changed ipr valve nothing changed cam sensor nothing changed some how 10 quarts low in oil just changed dec. 30th don't know ? Now will start if I pump throttle and has all its power back?
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I have an 01 f250 with a 4r100. Trans has not been slipping at all and yesterday it started a rough shift between 1st and 2nd. (3-4K Rpms) At the same time 4th gear stopped engaging. Shifts out of 3rd but does not go into 4th. I can hit my od button and it will shift back into 3rd and start pulling. Still no slipping just doesn't want to change 1-2 or engage 4th. I have done a full trans fluid change including new filter and tc. Old fluid looked fine with no metal flakes or garbage in it. So all new fluid still same problem. I was thinking of changing my shift solenoid.
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I have a 2004 F250 5.4 gasser, 214K on it. It is my daily driver, and it gets around 6mpg. I feel like this is a lot less then it should get. However that's not the only problem. it wasn't always this bad, but now almost every time I start it, it cranks and cranks and cranks but wont start. I turn the key back, forward again, it turns over 2 or 3 times, and starts, but kind of spits and sputters at a low rpm before speeding up the rpms. I feel like these issues are linked, but its pretty annoying that the starting issue happens everyday. Its been doing this for about 3 years now and I feel like one day it will let me down. People start looking at me if I have to try to start it 2 or 3 times.
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I have a 2005 F250 with the 5.4. This truck has been one thing after another, as you can tell from my other posts. The problem this time is, if it cranks hard to start because it's cold(can be anywhere from as high as 32, but usually in the teens) it will start just fine, then several minutes later throw the check engine light. Put the scanner on, like clockwork, 4 codes, always cylinder 1 misfire pending, misfire on first 1,000 revolutions pending, cylinder 1 misfire confirmed, misfire on first 1,000 revolutions confirmed.
Sometimes you can hear a slight lope in the idle when it does this. Clear the codes, runs perfectly fine. It will never do it after it's been started for the day. Some days you would think for sure it would throw it when it's frigid and the winds been blowing on it, it doesn't bother, other days you wouldn't think it would, and it does.Can the computer think that since it didn't start right up, it misfired?
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My 2001 F250 will not start (clicks). I verified its not the battery and even tried to jump start it. I have never replaced a starter- but before I do that I read where there is another solenoid under the hood somewhere. I always thought there was just the one on the starter itself.
Two questions:
1. where is that other solenoid located and should I replace that first?
2. How difficult is it to replace the starter? I am pretty handy.
The issue is that I cannot get it towed easily - I just need to get it started at least once since my plow is still installed and it's hooked up to a trailer..
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I changed the IAC valve 2 months ago because my truck kept stalling when idling down on a cold start and that fixed the problem. A few days days ago when starting it started revving to 2 - 3 K and won't IDLE down now? I changed the IAC again and that didn't work. What else should I be looking at to stop it from revving so high?
2001 F250 5.4 111,000 miles super duty.
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I have a 2001 F-250 XLT 4x4 with V10. Truck will not start. No fuel pressure. My Haynes manual does not show ignition or fuel delivery wiring. I have found the relay box behind the radio/dash. I need a wiring diagram and info on which relay is the fuel pump relay. Want to know so I can jump relay to see if fuel pump is okay.
Truck had sat for a few weeks being ran very little, so had to jump start yesterday. Ran for about 15 min, the shut off, re-started and ran for 30 min. Truck sat for about 1.5 hours then would not start. Charged battery overnight and it is 100%.
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Truck was dead- 2001 F250 V10... Has a starter relay (solinoid) behind battery... put a new relay in there- no go- cleaner terminals... then I put key in start and shorted the 2 terminals in the relay and she cranked right up. That would mean the starter is still good correct?? something in the ignition system?
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I have a 2001 Ford F-250 with the gas v-10. Yesterday it started just fine as always. Today I get into it and it starts to turn over just fine then starts to make a grinding sound and the truck won't start. I have had a fuel issue in the mornings with once it started you had to barely press the gass to keep it running. But never makes a funny sound and always runs fine. This only last for a couple of min and then it runs fine for the rest of the day. The grinding is not the starter. I took it off and had it checked and it was fine.
The truck had been using oil. When I checked the oil level it was low but it was still on the stick. "I know a motor needs oil to run smooth but it's my dads truck and well let's just say he is not the best on maintenance". Also I smelled the oil and it does have a gas smell to it. So it definitely does have some gas in the oil. I tried to light the dipstick with a lighter and it wouldn't light. So not sure how much gas is in it but that's what I did.
So the question is, would something just in mid crank go bad and then not let the motor crank. Truck made no weird noises before this so I find it hard to believe the barrings just went out in mid crank and now it is shot.
Also I just checked compression on front cylinders.
Driver side read 75lbs
passenger side read 100lbs
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2001 F250 5.4 ... I'm losing my mind chasing a Gremlin. I've been having mostly intermittent starting issues with my truck. I've had the truck for a little over a year, after someone totaled my previous one.
It occasionally wouldn't start on the first attempt, but it got really bad in the last couple weeks.
I first thought it was a faulty inertia switch or wiring in that vicinity, as at one point after manually tripping and resetting the cutoff switch it would start, UNTIL I put the trim panel back. At this point I think that may have been a coincidence.
I eventually probed the switch and it tests as it should electrically.
I put in a new fuel filter and things were fine for several days, but it acted up again. That time was last Saturday. Got it to start and all was good until tonight. Now it won't go, and I've tried so many times that I can see the battery power is dropping.
Last Saturday I pulled the relays from behind the radio and cleaned 'em up real nice. Also, just to check another variable I swapped the two that matched.
I'm about ready to change the fuel pump, but I've heard so many people say they did that but the problem was something else. Not only will it costs hundreds of dollars, its cold out and we'll have to drop the tank in the driveway.
In addition to the relay, inertia switch and fuse, I have found some mention of faulty fuel pressure regulators causing issues. I'll pry the vacuum line off in the morning to see if I can detect fuel residue on the vacuum side. (There is some noticeable corrosion on the fuel rail in that area).
I REALLY want to make sure I rule everything else out before spending hours under the truck in freezing weather dropping the tank and changing the sending unit out.
On key-on there is a noise from the gas tank, but someone else listening described it as a click but no whirring.
I do hear the relay clicking behind the radio. (Also, I pulled them again tonight and put a meter to them. With 12V on the primary side, they click and the other side shows continuity on diode check, and about .2 Ohm on resistance mode.)
I went through a lot of trouble to get my spare out looking for the fuel control module before finding out my truck is about 3 years too old to have one too. What else to check?
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Cold no start goes nowhere. I have a 2001 7.3 that will not start in the cold if I forget to plug it in....like last night. I have to plug in the block hater and give it a while before it will start. I tested the glow plug relay,it works fine. I can not find a test for the fuel bowl hear, and I'm not one to throw parts until I accidentally fix it. Any test procedure for the fuel bowl heater? Why this POS is so bad in the cold? Glow plugs tested fine at diesel shop in December, and this problem has been around since before that.
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I own a 2011 f-250 superduty, and have been having a problem with the steering, it goes from normal to lost of assist. Real hard to steer and dangerous. Then it will go away for a month, then start again. Some one on this site told me to flush the system which I did and it was fine for a month. A friend at a local ford dealer told me they had contamination in the system and I had to replace pump, reservoir, and flush system again....
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I have a 1997 f-250 heavy duty with the 7.3 I have been having problems with very aggressive and hard shifting. While it is acting up the overdrive light on the shifter blinks. This problem goes away and it might be good for a month or so, But it always comes back. I have had it to a professional trans tech, He replaced a part on the side of the tranny. I thought it was fixed, But now it is acting up again.
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I have a 1999 f250 sd with the 7.3. I'm not sure what is going on with my pickup. When I turn to the right i can turn with one finger, but when I turn left i have to put some muscle into it. Power steering fluid is full. I raised the front end and it turns both ways easy. My ball joints feel fine, there is no tire shake when i have it off the ground. My tie rods feel fine also, nice and tight. I was thinking about replacing the steering sector to see if thats the issue but wanted to get a second opinion first.
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I have a 2002 ford f250 with the 7.3l diesel. I recently installed a ts performance chip. On my pcm. And after i first tried all the different stages I didn't like how my transmission was shifting hard. So I contacted the manufacturer and he told me they could reprogram the chip for smoother shifting. So I removed the pcm and removed the chip. But when I went to reinstall the pcm I bent one of the pins on the pcm some how.
So I took it back out and straightened the pin with pliers . i reinstalled it back in the truck. Only to find when I reattached the battery cable I have no power to anything ignition ,horn, lights,Cigarette lighter etc. So my question is if the pcm is bad, or not contacting properly due to the pin being messed up. would that have anything to do with the lights and horn and all that? I suspect its the gem bsm or Vsm. Whichever one my truck has. But really not sure because everything worked fine just 20 min b4.
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When braking the truck shakes terribly, enough to toss a drink out of the cup holder almost. Sometimes there is a slight feeling in the peddle but not always. The shudder feels like it is timed with each revolution of the wheels.
It developed from a perfectly stopping truck over the course of maybe a month. I don't drive the truck that much either.
Things I have checked:
1, all u-joints, they all look and feel good, no play or slop in them
2, air pressure in all tires, even rotated them, no effect
3, brakes-front and back all looked good but I went ahead and replaced front pads and rotors, cleaned caliper pins, zero effect.
4, shudder exists whether in gear and slowing or in neutral, 2wd and 4wd
What the heck else is there to check? My first thought was, front brakes/warped rotors, but after pulling them apart there was so much life left on the rotors and pads and replacing all that with new did nothing! Could bad back brakes cause this much of a shudder? They look fine as well.
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On my 2008 f250 I can not turn the hubs without a set of pliers...does that mean I need new hubs....
What auto tranny do I have with the 5.4.. is it a six speed...
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I recently purchased a 00 F250 psd 4x4. Other than doing all of the fixes it needs to make it ride better I have been questioning the trucks "get up and go" and the EXTREMELY sensitive skinny pedal. Truck seems to pull very hard and puts out some black smoke under hard throttle but nothing like the really tuned trucks I have seen. But the skinny is so sensitive its hard to drive under 40mph in 3rd and once it gets up to 55 or so its real sharp getting on and off the throttle. Trans shifts great, TC locks and unlocks, truck runs awesome IMO but just a bit harsh. Is there a way to find out if it was tuned prior to me buying it other than inspecting for a chip, or is this the way they are and I just have to get used to it more...?
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I put some bfg at's on my '16 f250 6.2 today, 285/70r17 from 245/75r17. Has went to a larger tire and had funny downshifts? I had two hard down shifts on the way home from tire shop that I have never had before. I'm hoping this will go away once the computer relearns. Should I disconnect the battery or anything or just drive it and let it learn? I'm a little disappointed, the tires still look tiny, and checking clearances at liners and radius arms, I could have cleared a lot more tire easily. They sure looked bigger on dads '04. These will do me for a year or so until I can upgrade wheels, tires and suspension.
Before
After
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My 2000 F250 4 x 4 just started being almost impossible to steer to right when stopped. To the left it is ok. I was on a trip and when I got where I was going noticed the steering very hard. I checked the fluid level and it was almost empty. I filled the reservoir and let it sit 4 days. I am back on the road now and it is still doing it. Stopped to left is easy to right almost impossible.
My brakes are good. I noticed a couple times when I had to slam on the brakes on the tirp the rear tires chirped. I don't tow anything with it, just a family vehicle with 408000 miles. The power steering pump was replaced a few years ago. Pump, gearbox, etc? I need to get this fixed as I have another trip coming up in a few days.
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