Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 - Gas Gauge Stuck On Full
May 6, 2017
So I just got an 01 f250, 5.4. Really loving this truck so far. Noticed as I was driving my gas gauge is stuck at full. One time it randomly dropped down to about half tank where I think it should be, but it jumped back up to full. Anything to suggest trying? I tried nailing a speed bump to knock the float loose at 30 and I'm not sure if it worked. Gauge goes to E when I shut the truck off, but as soon as I turn it on it jumps up to full. Should I try hitting the tank with a mallet?
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2000 v10 f350 single tank...fuel gauge is stuck on full. I'm on the road so I don't have my drawings so I tried some quick troubleshooting. If I remember right 160k or so is full and 20k ohms is empty...so I unplugged the sender from the harness which should be open and the gauge should read empty. With key on its reading full. I then followed the harness and unplugged it near the brake booster...key on it reads full. Just wanted to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong before I rip the dash apart.
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I have a 2000 ford F 250 with V-10 engine with fuel gauge stuck. The problem started in the winter a couple years back on a cold night when I fueled the truck with it running. The fuel gauge never went down. I assume this would indicate a stuck float? I dropped the tank and noticed a loose yellow wire. I can't see that the wire was attached anywhere though? A V-10 is not the engine to be guessing with on fuel...
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I recently bought a 2005 Ford F250 Super Duty, diesel 6.0.
As I was driving to work this morning I noticed that the fuel gauge read almost full when it should have only had a half tank. A little while later I heard a beep and saw that the gauge was now on empty with a "Low Fuel" message displayed. Then I noticed the heater was suddenly blowing cold air.
I've only had the truck for a few weeks, but haven't had any other problems. I did replace the CD receiver and all of the instrument cluster lights a couple weeks ago, but everything seemed to be working fine after.
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My defrost is stuck no matter which way I turn the control it won't come off. It just started doing this today. I think it might be a vacuum leak. When I turn my switch on the pump still clicking whether or not it's pumping.
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Finally finishing up my 2001 F250SD 4X4 project. Decided to pull down the front axle to replace the dust seals. I've got everything apart including the large knuckle seals. Tried to pull the passenger side axle out but it only moves about an inch to an inch and a half before it stops. Took off the differential cover to look for damage or something obvious but I don't see anything wrong. The axle is moving within the splines of the spider gear but that's it. Stumped and sitting on jacks!
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I am a few DAYS into a project changing my ball joints on my 2001 F250SD 4wd.
Latest issue is I can't get the brakes back on. One of the pistons was pressed out making replacing the calipers onto the rotor impossible. Fiddling with things has only made it worse.
The higher piston is stuck extended, and the other piston doesn't even budge.
The truck is our only vehicle, and I have been working on it since Tuesday night. It looked like it was going to be done today, but I can't put it all back together now.
That piston will not move. I've tried opening the bleeder and taking a clamp to it but all I get it a few more drops of fluid, no visible movement.
A while ago it looked like this. I got it to move in a little, but it is firmly stuck.
I'm wondering if I can pull it all the way out and clean/sand polish it. Can I use a quick-clamp on the rubber section of brake line to isolate the calipers so I can pull the piston out without draining all the brake fluid from higher in the system? And what do I do about the other piston that doesn't seem to be moving at all? Grab with big pliers and twist/pull?
Some of us just have a knack for finding layer upon layer of problems on projects...
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I have an 03 f350 4x4 cc long bed and I seem to be having a problem with my fuel gauge. It doesn't show the true amount of what's in the tank and because of that I have run out of fuel a few times.
sometimes when I'm driving the light will come on and the gauge will drop all the way to empty then a little later it will go to almost full even with only putting 10 gals in the tank.
Any fix for this or do I need to replace the sending unit?
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As I was driving to work yesterday I noticed my fuel gauge going from half tank all the way to full going down the highway. I started looking at the rest and they seem to be in there normal spots. I looked up and watched the outside temp go from 40 degrees to 5. This morning the fuel gauge goes straight to full and the outside temp bounces between 2 degrees and 10. What may be going on to cause this?
The truck is a 2000 F350 crew cab with a 7.3 Power Stroke
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I was driving home the other day when all of a sudden all of my electronics in my truck turned off. Turned out when I got home my battery terminal was loose so it ended up shorting out. (fixed that) but when that happened my fuel was just under half way. The next day I filled up and was pulling a 3,000 pound trailer. My gas gauge didn't move at all, all weekend it was stuck at full until I actually went over a bump and it started moving down to a quarter. I knew here was no way I could go all weekend pulling a trailer and only lose a quarter of gas so I filled up again and was only be able to fill up 14 gallons.
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This has just started this past weekend out of no where.I went to accelerate up a hill and when it got to around 2500 rpms it just starts acting like a rev limiter kicks in.When i let off throttle it smooths out and runs fine, seems anytime its past quarter throttle it doesnt not want to move anywhere.If you drive normal in city conditions or on a nice flat round with barely any throttle it runs fine.I replaced the fuel filter no change, removed air filter no difference.Its actually at the shop now and they say its a transmission problem, my opinion i disagree fluid is up, no burning smell, and shifts fine under normal (slow) driving. 2001 Super duty 5.4 triton....
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1999 F250 V10 gas. I changed out the fuel pump, and now the gauge doesn't work. Checked all fuses - they're good. Is there any possibility that I could have accidentally pinned the float under the pickup sock, or got it hung somewhere? Is this a common occurrence? Don't really want to drop the tank again - but looks like I will have to in order to check/fix.....
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My father has a 2009 Ford F-250 Superduty with the 5.4l V8. Two days ago, he frantically woke me up from a nap because he could not get the truck out of park nor are the brake lights turning on when the pedal is pressed. I instantly thought Shift Interlock, did a quick google search and found that it can be the shift interlock or brake light switch on the brake pedal. I have since then replaced both to no avail as well as checking all fuses. I put a multimeter to the brake light switch connector and am getting a steady 10.2v. I am aware there is a bypass switch but that doesn't address the fact that he has no brake lights.
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My Ford 250 is currently stuck in park, it starts but I can't move the shifter. It sounds like it is a fuse issue from what I have read, but I bought the truck at an auction and I don't have a book. Do the brake or parking brake fuse? And where is it located? I know there is a panel under the hood and under the dash, which fuse to look for. It's a 2008 extended cab gas model.
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2011 250 run fine when parked it Friday jumped in it Monday morning got a check traction control light on will not shift out of park no break lights replaced break switch all fuses are good.
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I have a 2006 F250 V10 that has this issue most of the time but not all the time. Start her up, foot on brake and the shifter wont move. I use the bypass method to get her moving when this happens. It seems to be doing it more often lately. Also I recently has a cruise control issue. Hit the brake to shut it off and it doesn't stop it! Not sure if the 2 are related. The internet said I need to replace the switch on the master cylinder to fix the cruise control. I got lots of different stories on the park issue.
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My 2013 F-250 Super-Duty periodically won't start or come out of park. I have tried the ignition trick of tuning it to first position but with no luck. Sometimes I can see the light for the indicating light for being in park flashing on and off rapidly and manage to get it into neutral to start. It appears to be completely random. I potentially happens when I drive it for longer periods or do frequent stops around town.
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I have 03 F-250 with a 5.4 in it. Recently noticed the gas gauge is not moving much and seems like it will not go below half a tank. The gauge will go up however when i put gas in it. I just put techtron in it last night to see if this might work. Wasn't to sure if i did a battery reset on the truck if that may work as well.
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03 F250. Passenger window is stuck up. When I have the door panel off, I can feel the motor trying to move up. Won't go down at all. When I connect test light to the plug, it lights up correctly for both up and down. Thought maybe it was the motor so I got a new one but it only tries to go one way. It's like the switch isn't sending the signal for the window to go down even though the plug appears to be getting the correct signal.
I took apart the driver's side switch and nothing looks crimped, bent, etc. From some reading, it sounds like possibly the regulator is bad, does that somehow send a signal back to the switch? Is there a relay or something that could be bad? I find it odd that test light seems to work but when connected to a motor, it doesn't.
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While in Tow/Haul with my 5th wheel when slowing down probably at 5 or 10 mph the last downshift is very hard and the brake pedal gets real soft until full stop. Afterwards the brake pedal is firm. Tow/Haul without the trailer is fine. It's an '06 F250 Supercrew 4x4.
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Just bought a watchdog monitor by Bullydog. What are the normal levels for Boost, MAF, Load for a SD Twin Turbo 6.0L?
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