Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 - Frozen U-Joint In Driver Side Front Axle
Jul 14, 2013
I have a '01 F250 with a frozen u-joint in the driver side front axle. My question is can I put it together without the axle and drive it?
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-10'C this mornin and my driver side windshield sprayer is frozen solid. After 10 mins I can see the snow and ice melt around it but still won't spray. This is typical of cars with too much space between engine and hood.
Gonna have to get out the extension and hairdryer tonight. Maybe find some kind of portable mini dryer that works off my 12v to 120v converter as a long term solution.
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Here's the deal. I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and I am getting a noise in the front drivers side wheel. The noise is not a grind or clunk, but its like a u-joint is rubbing inside an empty cylinder kind of. Anyways, it seems like it does it only with small bumps. I took off my oem hubs and re-installed them and the noise went away for about a week. Now I replaced them with manual locking hubs and the noise is back. One other thing I notice is if i put the switch to 4x4 the noise goes away. I checked all major components for the steering and suspension and nothing was loose. The front end is tight. Is there anything inside the axle that would cause this? I dont know what to check for anymore. Where else to check?
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3 4x4 today I locked the hubs, put it in 4 low and got threw some mud to go hunting fine. got back out of the woods and took it out of 4x4 unlocked hubs and went in reverse 30 yards.. Now when i drive it makes a weird sound like a rubbing sound near the front axle. What this is?
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I bought a 2000 F250 V10 Super Cab. Oddly after a few weeks it has grown on me. There has been a clunking noise out of the right front over bumps. I traced it to a bad axle bearing. The u joint moves up and down about a 1/2 inch. Besides pulling the hub/bearing assembly out and removing the axle are there any surprises getting the old bearing out?
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Cat like noises coming from front driver side tire .. honestly sounds like a cat ..it gets louder the faster I go ... what it could be ?
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here's the problem. The driver side front power window will only go down and not up. I checked the motor and the master switch with a multimeter and both work just fine. the motor is receiving power and the master switch is sending power. However when i plug the motor back in and re-install it, the window will not go up. Is there some sort of relay that might have gone bad that is not letting the motor raise the window up???
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I just replaced the ball joints on my 99 F250 SD 4x4. Driver side was a bit stiff to turn the knuckle. Passenger side is very hard to turn. The upper stud wanted to turn in the sleeve after torquing to spec. I had to lean on it to lock it into place. I have to check today to see if parts store is open to get a new set. The brand name is "Drive Works". I have installed ball joints in this vehicle previously, and in another Ford truck with the same style. I have the proper tools to do the job. I have to determine if both joints are tight or just the upper. I won't buy the same brand again.
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My drivers window will not work at all but when I push the button I get a clicking in the fuse box. The other 3 windows partially work but will only go up or down in small increments. I have tried holding the button and slamming the door and this allows the other 3 windows to work. I thought it was the switch so I replaced it and that was not the problem. Fuse and relay seem to be fine. If it was just the driver window I would think it was the lift motor but with the other 3 windows on the fritz I have no clue.
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So I'm away from home on vacation also away from my tools. Any ways my front drivers side line busted almost causing me to crash earlier today in my 2006 F250 6.0 diesel 4x4. So basically my question is: what tools are needed to do this job? I've already picked up the part now tomorrow morning I will be changing the part...
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Check out the pics. 99 f250 4x4. I have a leak in my front axle shaft. It looks like it is coming out of the dust cap on the end of the front shaft. I am pretty sure it is differential fluid from the smell. Is there a seal before the dust cap? Is the shaft hollow with fluid in it? I thought it was just in the differential and if it leaks it is at the seals where the axle goes into the differential not at the otter end.
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Finally finishing up my 2001 F250SD 4X4 project. Decided to pull down the front axle to replace the dust seals. I've got everything apart including the large knuckle seals. Tried to pull the passenger side axle out but it only moves about an inch to an inch and a half before it stops. Took off the differential cover to look for damage or something obvious but I don't see anything wrong. The axle is moving within the splines of the spider gear but that's it. Stumped and sitting on jacks!
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I noticed my '12 F250 has grease zerks on the front axle u-joints and was wondering how often you need to grease them ? My truck has 10k on it and while I was changing the oil tonight I decided to give them a few shots of grease until it started coming out of the joint.
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I own a 1999 F250 super duty and have the front end apart to service the u joints , I noticed that i have bad axle stub needle bearings on one side. I was wondering what is involved in taking those out and replacing them, it looks like they are held in place with some type of spanner nut. My next question :Would it be worth the cost just to replace the whole bearing hub assembly? The truck has 134000 miles on it.
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I have a 99 f250 7.3 4x4. The problem is in 2wd I can spin the front drive shaft freely and the driver side axle will turn but not passenger side. I've pulled both hubs off and both are in auto position and spin freely. Even with the hub off on the pass side the axle won't spin freely.
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My 2013 f-250 with 6500mi. has peeling paint on the front differential and the axle.. I sprayed it with some fluid film for now.
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I broke 2 snap ring plier on this thing, what is the make and model of snap ring pliers used to remove the snap ring off axle in hub ? I have some others but too beefy won't move in there. They need to be long but strong. I've heard Snap On Item: SRPC9000A works but I don't know of any Snap On guys around here and I need to get this thing done.
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2001 f350 4x4 dually 7.3 powerstroke, I recently replaced the hub assembly, stub shaft and seal, u joint, ball joints on the front drivers side and now periodically the truck makes a grinding growling vibration coming from front drivers side and stops after hitting a bump...
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Here's my problem while replacing brake pads i found that my axle has leaked fluid on the pss,side rear rotor and all over .. I been looking for any info on repairing it myself . I found Everything for every other truck just not for this truck.
It's 2003 F-250 w/5.4L all Stock rear axle has 12 bolts and gears are 7.73 ... I believe its a Dana 60. No tags or markings on the Axle to go by..
I live in the Freak-en woods here so i like to order all the right parts once and do over the weekend .. its my only ride so once apart im stuck here.... I did check the Vent Tube its fine..
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We were using my 2001 7.3 4x4 (automatic, manual lock outs) in 4 low yesterday on dry pavement in an attempt to pull out the remainder of a 6x6 post in concrete. We were working her pretty hard alternating directions of pulling. At one point we heard a loud bang (see also: thud; pop; etc). It seemed at that point that the front axle was no longer functioning in 4wd. We still had the low gearing feel, but at one point I noticed my rear tires trying to slip on the driveway, but fronts didn't appear to be pulling anymore.
Long story short, came in, went to bed, went out this morning and thought I'd jack up the front end and roll the tires in both 'free' and 'lock' to see if the universal joints (yokes?) behind each wheel were spinning or not, depending on whether free or locked in. I noticed on the passenger side a few drops of a clear/light colored fluid that had dripped from behind the dust cover that isn't functioning any longer. The joints worked as they should, based on if it was locked in or not.
I decided to go ahead and put the back axle on jackstands as well and see how it was working when "driving". When in 2wd, rear worked, front was stationary, as it should be. when in 4high, rear spun, front driver spun erratically, nothing from passenger front (where I had seen drip). 4low was same thing - erratic on driver side, at best.
So I know I have front axle/transfer case issues. The question is, with the drip (smells like grease, so I'm assuming its gear oil?) would I be safe to drive it a few days with hubs in free position? I don't want all of the fluid leaking out when I'm driving down the road. I use the truck for work and wouldn't be able to be without it until later in the week or next week. But I also don't want to drive it if it will just make my predicament worse.
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OK, I've done a lot of things over the years on cars and trucks but never messed with ball joints on a F250SD 4x4 with 160k miles. Found out today when getting new tires that the ball joints are shot. I trust the shop but know I can do this my self. So if I'm going to do this what should I replace? Since I'll be doing this I want to know from those with more time under the truck than me what else should I be replacing at the same time. I have done the front wheel bearings and of course shocks. Just what am I in for and what other parts and brands should I be using? Bushing kits for stabilizer bar? Replace stabilizer bar with heavier after market?
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