Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 - Engine Temp Seems Really Low
Jan 7, 2014
2001 f250 5.4L v8. Engine temp seems really low. The gauge is reading barely above the cold in normal range. The heater is only blowing out 75 degree air at the warmest. It gets to its normal temperature with in 15 minutes even when its real cold out. I live in Minnesota and its been a really cold winter so having hot heat would be nice. I just bought this truck at the beginning of the winter. Whats going on?
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Truck is a 1999 F-250 with manual climate control with A/C.
Heater core issue:
Heat is not very warm after engine is fully up to temp. Would like to back flush the heater core without damaging or making it leak. How should I do this safely?
Secondly, if I do make it leak, how hard is it to change out?
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Its a 2001 f250 with a 5,4. I just recently put a new shot block in it, the short block is a svt short block for an 01 lightning. every thing off old motor went on new svt block just fine, and it drop in just fine. only it will not warm up i let it run for 45 min the other day and on the gauge it would not come past the c. and i do believe the gauge to be accurate because the heat in the cab sucks and the top rad hose is just warm, not as hot as it should be. I've already put 2 new thermostats in it so I don't believe that to be the issue either.
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I have a 2001 f250 with the 5.4 I replaced the belt because of belt squeal and after replacing it the squeal is gone. now after the truck gets to its normal temp and I stop at a gas station for dip I will leave it running and when I come out it has this loud chirping noise it kinda sounds mechanical but it very well could be something on the belt drive. I am stumped it goes away after I start driving but I am kind of nervous about what it could be.
And the only time I hear it is while the truck is at normal temp and in park I have rolled the windows down and can not hear it while driving or at traffic lights. a part of me says it could be the fan clutch and now that it has a good belt on it I am hearing a sound of maybe the clutch going out or a pulley bearing starting to go out. Where I should go from here?
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I have an 2001 F-250 5.4L.
It has the Triton engine and the problem with spark plugs blowing out. I have a kit with thick inserts that I'm going to install. I need to drill and tap the heads, but first I need to get the piston in the cylinder I'm working on to get close to the bottom and have all the valves shut. But I can't manually turn the engine over. I tried using a long ratchet with a socket that fits the nut on the crankshaft pully, but the nut just seems to tighten more, instead of turning the engine over.
And trying to turn the fan pulley doesn't do it either. Also, using the electric start for a split second at a time still seems to turn the engine over too quickly for me to get the piston where I need it. Do I need to pull all the spark plugs to do this? I really just wanted to work on one cylinder for now, instead of opening up a can of worms.
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The truck is in my Sig 01 F250 5.4
Just got back from a long trip with it. Parked it for 3 days, all was running fine. Went to dinner Sat night and all was great, left the restaurant and as soon as I started the engine I noticed a slight vibration. As soon as I hit 42 miles per hour, it started shaking pretty good. I pulled over and checked under the truck to make sure I did not have anything I was not supposed to hanging down.
Driveshaft looked good, nothing leaking from rear end or tranny. When it does vibrate, the Tach shows the unhappiness as well. This a.m. driving to work it was vibrating at all speeds and shifting was very rough, had a hard time deciding if it wanted to be in second or third gear. I don't think this is drive train issue... When it shutters and sputters at 40ish MPH, its almost like it loses power and I have to let off the gas. and then under power it shakes badly.
I had the super chip settings for performance tow when this started and then I changed it back to stock settings, thinking it might work, which it only got worse. Changing the settings with the Superchip you have to disable the fuel system and I do this by pulling the fuel pump fuse under the hood in the power distro box.
I think the ujoints are still good, the oil and tranny fluid are spot on. Hubs are locked but in 2WD. Had all the front end replaced 15K miles ago. Brand new tires and wheels in Sept, front end alignment done at same time, front brakes were 90% and rear brakes at 20%.
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I have noticed my trans temp gauge needle is dead center of the gauge even on a cold start. I thought my sensor was under the pan so I pulled it and did not see any sensor at all. Is there a external sensor?
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I got in my 06 f250 tonight and my digital read out on my temp control not working. My heater and A/C works but when I turn it off my outside temp is not on. Whats going on?
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I have the 2012 XL F-250 6.2 v8 , I have an ambient (outside air) temperature sensor that needs replacing, I ordered it and was told it is located in the passenger side mirror from the parts guy, there is a tap in the bottom of the mirror to access it, looking for a replacement type video link of how to do this, as I am not finding one via youtube, pulling the tab off on the bottom of the mirror I am not really seeing the part I have as a replacement in the mirror.. This is the XL version/work truck so ALL manual mirrors....
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I have a 2001 F350 and the temp read-out on the mirror hasn't worked since I got the truck in 2004. Where the sensor is. I found a connector on the back side the core support on the driver's side that has nothing plugged in. Could this be where it should be?
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I had a mechanic replace the temp sensor on the top of the intake in my 2001 f350 v10 and since then my temp gauge doesn't work. He replaced the sensor again and still nothing. Is there a different sensor/sender that controls the temp gauge???
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My 2008 250 suddenly lost ability to adjust temp control of heat and A/C. I can adjust the fan speed and the defrost/dash vents/foot heater position controls, but no matter how far I turn the cold/hot dial left or right, the temp is the same. Even in the Max and Norm A/C setting, it's the same temp, which is stuck in the hot range.
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My F250 with V10 has developed an overheating problem. While driving, the temp gauge suddenly shoots to max, and the truck goes into limp mode. Turning off the truck and ignition, waiting a few minutes, and all seems to be well again - sometimes for only a minute, sometimes for several days. No steam leaking, the water in the reservoir seems to be normal temperature, the radiator is not overly hot, and the AC keeps on blowing ice cold. Me thinks it is not really overheating, it just thinks it is. So where to start? Change the temp sensor first, or the thermostat? It seems the hoses are fairly firm, I don't believe they are collapsing from suction.
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My truck is 2001 F250 with the 7.3 I have AFE intake, TS 6 position chip, Stage 1 Auto Tranny, 4in Exhaust all the way down. New glow pugs as of last week as well as uvchs and gp relay. Also has a new hpop line. New compression sleeves for fuel lines, riff-raff fuel banjo bolts and fuel pressure regulator.
I am having a hard start issue no matter what the temp is outside, unless it plugged in. Once it starts its good unless it sits for more than 5 hours.
Batteries have tested good, glow plugs ohm at 1.3, gpr 12.83 at batt side- once on it 11.9. All fuses are good. HPOP res is showing at about 3/4" down from top.
***Wires going to the MAT sensor are showing through at the connector, not sure if this could be a problem...if so why???
****Noticed some oil in the ICP, cleaned and unhooked will check start tomorrow to see if this works with long start as truck is plugged in.
Will also be putting a new fuel filter in and double checking oil level in the am. I do not have a scanner tool and am doing the best I can before I take it in to ford to diagnose.
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I have an isspro sensor that I need to install on my 4r100. I have it all installed except for the actual sending unit. My question is where is the best place to put it?
I've watched multiple YouTube videos and it seems a lot of people use the test port on the driver side above the linkage. I found out the hard way that it is a very poor choice of location. A lot of people say that the best way is to drop the pan drill a hole and weld in the bung? I was wondering would it be possible to put it on the "out" line on the transmission oil headed to the cooler? 01 f-350 7.3
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I replaced the sensor on top of the water pump and the gauge still doesn't work. I tested the gauge by unplugging and grounding out the wire and the gauge goes all the way up. What I can try next. I didn't get a Motorcraft sensor so I'm going to go get one of those tomorrow hoping the duralast wasn't correct even though it looked 98 percent identical to the original. 7.3 lite diesel.
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I have had the truck sitting for almost 2 weeks now and live in the Midwest. It is about 35F outside today and finally got to drive it. When I started the truck and let it warm up for about 3 minutes I backed out and started driving. in total the engine ran 6- 8 minutes and the transmission temp moved off cold but the engine was still reading cold. Is this normal in this truck? Mine is a 5.4 gasser with the 3.73 rear.
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Okay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?
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My truck threw a code p1299 last night on my way home from the lake. I was towing on a huge grade and all the sudden my engine temp gauge pegged out on me and check engine light came on. I pulled over and noticed a bunch of coolant had overflown the cap but the engine didn't seem to have over heated. When I restarted the truck the engine temp was immediately normal range. I drove for another 30 min or so and the engine temp started to climb and then come back to normal then climb and stay pegged. I pulled over again and noticed the coolant level was low and coolant had overflown the reservoir. I restarted the truck and once again it was normal. I just drove surface streets the rest of the way with no issue. I suspect blown head gasket. This is a 2003 F-250 6.8L with 100000 miles.
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My CC display shows all icons on the right regardless of settings (see pic). The temperature setting and outside temp will not come on.
The second issue is that my front blower starts to lose velocity and sounds strange on long road trips.
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My truck: 2001 F250 V8 Triton Automatic 4x4
Problem: 4x4 won't engage
Symptoms: No dash lights....nothing happens when I turn the 4x4 switch. When I start the truck I hear what sounds like a motor (transfer case motor maybe?) trying to switch (even though my dash switch is on 2WD)... It tries three times and stops.
What I've done: Checked fuses ...they appear ok to me
I don't have a maintenance manual yet ...
The 4x4 used to work up until about 2 weeks ago. Started having a hard time getting it to go into (and out of) 4x4 and then it just stopped all together.
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