Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 - Engine Chirp At Idle
Apr 27, 2016
I have a 2001 f250 with the 5.4 I replaced the belt because of belt squeal and after replacing it the squeal is gone. now after the truck gets to its normal temp and I stop at a gas station for dip I will leave it running and when I come out it has this loud chirping noise it kinda sounds mechanical but it very well could be something on the belt drive. I am stumped it goes away after I start driving but I am kind of nervous about what it could be.
And the only time I hear it is while the truck is at normal temp and in park I have rolled the windows down and can not hear it while driving or at traffic lights. a part of me says it could be the fan clutch and now that it has a good belt on it I am hearing a sound of maybe the clutch going out or a pulley bearing starting to go out. Where I should go from here?
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I have a 2004 ford f250 5.4 and ithe makes a Humming noise only at idle. I have checked the fan clutch. it seems to be good and does not spin freely. I was thinking maybe idle air control valve but the truck idles like normal and does not stall. the sound does go away when squeezing the air hose doing today the IAC but comes back as soon as you let off. can it still be the idle air control valve if idles fine and doesn't stall?
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Its a 2001 f250 with a 5,4. I just recently put a new shot block in it, the short block is a svt short block for an 01 lightning. every thing off old motor went on new svt block just fine, and it drop in just fine. only it will not warm up i let it run for 45 min the other day and on the gauge it would not come past the c. and i do believe the gauge to be accurate because the heat in the cab sucks and the top rad hose is just warm, not as hot as it should be. I've already put 2 new thermostats in it so I don't believe that to be the issue either.
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2001 f250 5.4L v8. Engine temp seems really low. The gauge is reading barely above the cold in normal range. The heater is only blowing out 75 degree air at the warmest. It gets to its normal temperature with in 15 minutes even when its real cold out. I live in Minnesota and its been a really cold winter so having hot heat would be nice. I just bought this truck at the beginning of the winter. Whats going on?
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I have a 2007 F250 4X4 6.0 diesel. When first started it idles extremely rough to a point it sounds like a old gas engine missing. But after it warms up for about 15 minutes it runs and idles like a new truck. I'm thinking it's the injectors if so is this something I can change/clean ....
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I have an 2001 F-250 5.4L.
It has the Triton engine and the problem with spark plugs blowing out. I have a kit with thick inserts that I'm going to install. I need to drill and tap the heads, but first I need to get the piston in the cylinder I'm working on to get close to the bottom and have all the valves shut. But I can't manually turn the engine over. I tried using a long ratchet with a socket that fits the nut on the crankshaft pully, but the nut just seems to tighten more, instead of turning the engine over.
And trying to turn the fan pulley doesn't do it either. Also, using the electric start for a split second at a time still seems to turn the engine over too quickly for me to get the piston where I need it. Do I need to pull all the spark plugs to do this? I really just wanted to work on one cylinder for now, instead of opening up a can of worms.
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I have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 5.4L, 118,000miles...engine seems to idle somewhat rough but tach doesn't seem to move off 1000rpm & when giving slight acceleration seems to act like its missing, shaking . But under acceleration moderate or high purrs like a kitten! Always starts good , few cranks. Any hints on the what issue might be?
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The truck is in my Sig 01 F250 5.4
Just got back from a long trip with it. Parked it for 3 days, all was running fine. Went to dinner Sat night and all was great, left the restaurant and as soon as I started the engine I noticed a slight vibration. As soon as I hit 42 miles per hour, it started shaking pretty good. I pulled over and checked under the truck to make sure I did not have anything I was not supposed to hanging down.
Driveshaft looked good, nothing leaking from rear end or tranny. When it does vibrate, the Tach shows the unhappiness as well. This a.m. driving to work it was vibrating at all speeds and shifting was very rough, had a hard time deciding if it wanted to be in second or third gear. I don't think this is drive train issue... When it shutters and sputters at 40ish MPH, its almost like it loses power and I have to let off the gas. and then under power it shakes badly.
I had the super chip settings for performance tow when this started and then I changed it back to stock settings, thinking it might work, which it only got worse. Changing the settings with the Superchip you have to disable the fuel system and I do this by pulling the fuel pump fuse under the hood in the power distro box.
I think the ujoints are still good, the oil and tranny fluid are spot on. Hubs are locked but in 2WD. Had all the front end replaced 15K miles ago. Brand new tires and wheels in Sept, front end alignment done at same time, front brakes were 90% and rear brakes at 20%.
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I have a 2001 Ford F250 V10 with about 70,000 miles on it and now the gauge indicates low pressure when my warmed up truck idles around 1000 RPM.
I went off road the other day into some mud and since then I have had my oil pressure gauge reporting low at idle and normal when moving.
I was a quart and 1/2 low on oil which I filled and the next day I changed the oil. I then had taken it Ford shop who replaced the oil sensor and said all fixed. It wasn't and I took it back in ... now the mechanic indicated it is probably the crankshaft bearing based on his experience and I should replace the engine.
This seems drastic? Wouldnt' the next step to go check/replace the oil pump?
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I have a 2000 F-250 V10 that misses (cylinder 10) at the idle, once you give it gas it runs correctly again. I am at a loss. I have replaced the plug, tried moving coils from one cylinder to another to see if it shifts the miss, and it has new injectors. What this could be?
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I have a 99 f250 sd with v10 that has no power. Will crank, idle and die sometimes. Getting codes p0351 - p0355. No power when driving.
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I recently purchased a 1999 6.8L. Runs great when cold but after warming up the idle gets rough. Truck has new plugs and coil packs and fuel filter. Checked the fuel pressure and the idle is right at 30 psi. I read that the good pressure range is 30 to 45 psi. Is 30 psi acceptable or should I replace fuel pump or regulator? Any next step to solving my idle woes.
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Having problems with no heat at idle or low heat in the cab. I just bought this truck a couple weeks ago and have a limited warranty on it. The truck makes no heat at idle. I start it and let it just run, engine temp gauge goes up to normal operating temp in 15 min or so, still nothing from the vents but cold air. If I drive it I get a "little" heat, at idle, cold air again. I believe the thermostat is working because like I said, engine temp stays right in the middle.
Brought it to local ford dealer, their diagnosis was heat core clogged and needed to be flushed, had that done. truck has been running 40 minutes in the driveway now, engine temps nice and warm, no heat. What could be the issue? I took a picture of what I believe are the lines running to the heater core, just barely warm to the touch, not hot by any means. It looks like there is a vacuum actuator on the line running in but there is no hose attached to it, what this it, should it have a line running to it?
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I am new to the v10 I only ever owned 7.3 this is my father truck it's a 99 with 200k on it. The problem is it will idle fine when cold but when it is warned up very ruff idle no codes and when I go back at the end of this week I will check the O2 sensor with AE but I really don't know much about it.
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I have a 2004 F-250 with a 6.0 and a 6-speed with 140,000 miles. It has been studded, and has upgraded injectors. ( Not sure on the size, they bored them at at the diesel shop that studded my heads.) Also have an EGR delete, with the EGR turned off on the SCT as well. I also have a SCT Livewire set on the 65HP tow tune.
Truck has always ran great in the year and a half I have had it. I changed the oil three days ago, and now I am getting a miss at idle. The trucks cranks right up and drives normally. Once it is at operating temperature, when I stop at a light it has a very noticeable miss. There is no surging, or change in RPM's at all. Just seems like it is cutting out every few seconds. This is also somewhat intermittent. FICM shows 49 volts always, even when this is occurring.
Also, this may be unrelated, my oil temperature seems higher since the oil change. Was around 192 water/197 oil while cruising 70 on the interstate. Now, its' more like 192/202. I've always ran Motorcraft 15w-40, and that is what I used for this oil change as well.
I see some people have a similar problem, but all the posts I've read involved fluctuating RPM's or surging, or both. Other than this, the truck cranks and runs just like normal.
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Okay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?
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I just purchased a 2012 F250 XLT with the 6.2. It has 38,000 miles on it. Yesterday I noticed, when coming to a stop, the idle will sometimes drop below 500. The engine will stumble a little, then the RPM will jump up to 1,000. Twice it has stalled on me. When it stalls, the engine will restart just fine. No codes in the computer or warning lights on the dash.
I will be bringing it back to carmax, as it is under their 30 day warranty still. Hopefully they will be able to figure out something. I am thinking either the TB needs to be cleaned, or there is an issue with the canister purge valve. I saw the TSB for the CPV but it doesn't cover my truck.
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I have a 99 f250 5.4l 2v with 165000. just two weeks ago i went to start up the truck on a job site to take lunch and it was running really rough. I talked with a mechanic at my shop and he said that it sounded like the aic or that i needed plugs. I went and bought aic and plugs and installed them all in one day. I unhooked the battery before i did any work and have changed the coil packs about 3-4 months ago when it was jerking at highway speeds. I am at a loss.
Read so much on the site about could be this or that and cant afford to through money at it like the govt does. I replaced the ait(air intake temp sensor) and the ect(engine coolant sensor) after i got a code from oreillys that said p0113 which is high input on it. I have read it can be so many things and it seems to be running rich because i am getting about half of mileage i was getting before problem started. i need a fix soon as i must drive the truck to work everyday which is a 52 mile trip total.
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My idle goes real fast 2500 rpm special when is warm can't get idle to go down for nothing took truck to camping on dirt road with the vibration idle came back to normal and stay for while and over the soon start again. No code...
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I have a 2000 Ford-F250, V10, 6.8 liter Gas. The issue is that when I try to start the vehicle it will start, but then start to idle real low and then die. If I try to restart sometime it will and sometimes you have to let it sit. I can also pump the gas and it will sometimes start.
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My truck: 2001 F250 V8 Triton Automatic 4x4
Problem: 4x4 won't engage
Symptoms: No dash lights....nothing happens when I turn the 4x4 switch. When I start the truck I hear what sounds like a motor (transfer case motor maybe?) trying to switch (even though my dash switch is on 2WD)... It tries three times and stops.
What I've done: Checked fuses ...they appear ok to me
I don't have a maintenance manual yet ...
The 4x4 used to work up until about 2 weeks ago. Started having a hard time getting it to go into (and out of) 4x4 and then it just stopped all together.
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