Cruise won't power up. Tried entering diagnostics but did not get any flashes. By-passed switch on master cylinder, did not make any difference. Horn honks. Brake lights work correctly.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 F250 with 7.3.... We swapped the auto for a zf6 manual.... We left the auto's shift position sensor tied to the frame and left in neutral. I did install a pcm from a manual transmission pickup. Also have the clutch position switch hooked up. I have an Edge Evolution CTS2 reprogrammer, and on the display the gear indication always shows P. I suspect that is why my cruise doesn't work. For interests sake, I tried manually adjusting the shift position sensor through all gears, and the reverse lights come on when in reverse but the Edge's display always shows P. My question is with a manual transmission, how does the pcm know that it is in gear? The only sensor that I am aware of is the reverse sensor on the zf6.
View 2 RepliesI've just bought 2001 f-250 crew cab and when I push the cruise control on the steering wheel it does nothing. Maybe a fuse or does my year have one of those master cylinder switches?
View 12 RepliesChanging from manual windows to power? I don't want to swap doors because of the repaint issue but wondered what is involved, if it's even possible. I just read how to convert the rear windows on a Super Cab to power and it got me wondering about the front.
View 2 Replies1999 F250.. What would cause my cruise control to work sometimes and not others. it may work today and not tomorrow.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 f-250 5.4l and the cruise control quit. If you press the on and coast it will honk the horn so I am thinking switches on the steering wheel or the clockspring. I need to test those. Everything else works fine....
View 6 Replies2000 F250 Super Duty cruise control not working. I looked through a lot of threads on this subject and cannot pin point my problem. Cruise control was working, had to slow down wile approaching a town, back on the highway and now it won't turn on.
Looked at the brake pressure switch, it was till good but was the old type but had the recall harness on it. Bought a new one and replaced it anyways. Still nothing. All my brake lights work, I also did the Cruise control diagnostic and it passes everything. No lights on my dash are on, speedometer works, horn works.
The only thing I did not check is the Vehicle speed sensor. Even though my speedometer works and my ABS light is not on, can this still be the problem? If so how do you test it? Do I just remove it and test continuity?
Just bought a 2003 5.4 6 speed 4x4 F250 .. The cruise control does not work at all. The only fuse I can find in the owners manual is a 2 amp one .. it is in good shape .. Where do I look now to solve the problem??
View 8 RepliesThe latest addition to the driveway (2012 F250 XL 6.2) is getting ready to be geared up for it's tour of duty. The one thing that was on the would-be-nice but not must-have list was cruise control. This truck doesn't have it, which wasn't a deal breaker because the truck was way inside my budget.
So anyways, while researching hitches, tonneau covers, steps, etc. I came across this : [URL] ....
Is this all I need to install the speed control? I would assume the dealer would have to get into the logic and enable something, but is this switch really all the hardware I need to buy?
I have a 2001 f250 super duty extended cab with the v10. Over the past week it has been running fine and it will all of a sudden lose power and dies. I've been able to start it back up once right away and a few times it started up after a few hours of messing with it.
So, after the truck dies it will crank and crank but will not start. We have checked fuel pressure and nothing. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump and it turns on. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box and got a fuel pressure reading of 40 psi. But when we crank we have no pressure.
When we apply direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box the truck will only crank and not start.
2001 F250, 7.3L ... After much diagnosis, I've found that the 4 positive feeds to the transfer case relay base have no power to them. The fuse that feeds them (#17 CJB) is fine and when I jump from the fuse hot side directly to the transfer case motor contacts on the relay base, it shifts fine. As far as I can tell, there is only one wire leading from that fuse so there must be a junction block somewhere that splits it into the 4 wires that feed the relay block. I've looked underneath and found nothing. How the 1 wire gets split into 4? On diagrams this junction point is labeled, but I don't know where to find that.
View 2 RepliesFor about 6 months the cruise control on our '09 F-250 has been intermittently failing. One time I'll set it and it will work fine, the next time I try to set it and it fails. No particular rhyme or reason to when it fails to set.
Some of the tests that I did indicated it was the brake light switch on the brake pedal arm. It seemed to work perfectly a few times that I drove it after the installation but now it's back to working when it wants to.
I had a problem with the cruise on our '06 Ranger and it turned out to be the module. It acted a bit the same way in that it would set sometimes, other time not. I don't know if the two systems are similar or not.
Truck is an 02 F250 Automatic 4X4, 7.3 PSD.
Cruise control will turn on, will sometimes set speed and sometimes will not. If it does set and work it may kick off at any second or it may run fine. I have noticed it seems to kick off mainly after going over a slight bump in the highway or it may just kick off for the hell of it. Truck has 50,000 miles on it, I bought it new. Also having trouble with the throttle position sensor, it seems to have a "dead spot" at about 58 mph that shows up when I romp down on the pedal to pass on 2 lane roads. Can these two symptoms be related? Both are very aggravating. FWIW it does have the power adjust pedals. Truck is 100% stock, no power chips or other upgrades.
I have an early 1999 f250 diesel. I originally googled having the airbag light on and loss of cruise control and came up with it more than likely being a bad clock spring. So I replaced the clock spring, and it was definitely blown. I have a horn now, not sure if I did before or not, but still the light is on and no cruise control. The airbag light is flashing code 27 which I believe means the passenger airbag has issues.
So I tried turning the key in the switch for the passenger airbag to deactivate it, but it only lets me turn it 45 degrees and no light comes on. It looks like the key should turn 90 degrees but maybe I'm just an idiot. I see a lot of people with the bulbs dying and running into issues but that wouldn't explain the inability to turn the key 90 degrees. Also would the airbag light being on deactivate the cruise or is that just some other issue? For what its worth, I plugged in a code reader and no codes came up, just the flashing airbag light.
I have a 2003 F250 Super Duty 5.4 crew cab. Cruise light comes on when engaged but does not work. I did some research on why its not working checked wiring at the throttle body it seemed ok, Fuse is ok. Also did the self test and everything passed with just one flash but cruise still does not work. I read about many problems with the brake pressure switch but would it pass the self test if that pressure switch was bad? Also what should a switch cost. Local dealer wanted $125.00 for a new one and I have read where they cost around $15.00 - $20.00.
View 12 Replies2010 F-250. the tire pressure warning light is on and the cruise is not working. Verified all TPMS sensors are working and sending signal with the reprogramming tool. using my scan tool, I got several U codes saying there is no communication with the instrument panel control module. I have cleared the codes, they did not return immediately and the problem persists.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 f250, 5.4l triton v8 that cranks like crazy, but won't start. When I spray a little starter fluid in it it will run until the spray wears off. Brand new battery and full gas tank. it does have check engine light on dash, probably from the o2 sensor as the exhaust has almost completely rusted out. Also on a side note the cruise control will not engage.
View 6 RepliesOK so my 2001 F250 was leaking power steering fluid from the lower portion of the gearbox (where the pitman arm attaches).
I found a thread on this forum where it showed how you could change the seals out WITHOUT taking the gearbox out.
So I got the pitman arm off with a heavy duty puller. Then I scraped out the 1st rubber seal hoping to reveal a snap ring behind it. Well, the seal is 99% scraped off, but there is not evidence of a snap ring. It does seem like there is some metallic ring holding another rubber seal in behind it. But again, I can't find the little open spots that you put your snap ring pliers in to get snap rings out.
How do I get this metallic thingy out???? I already broke a small drill bit trying to drill it out. It just doesn't seem like the best way to go about it.
2001 F250 SD 7.3 PSD Was doing a trailer towing road trip too and from Montana. On the way back the cruise control stopped working. Checked fuse #28. Looked fine. Attempted to do a self test on the cruise control. Holding the OFF button did nothing. Never went into diagnostic mode. Button ? A different fuse?
View 14 RepliesI recently bought a 2008 F250 with the 6.4 diesel indirectly from a dealership. The truck itself has 220,000ish kilometers, but the engine (as well as the turbos) are Ford reman that had about 12,000km when I bought it and I have only put about 6500km on it. It is already leaking oil but that is for another thread.
The reverse sensors, steering wheel controls and part of the stock 6cd radio have never worked. The towing system has errors as well. The fuel level sensor often has problems reading the new level after I put in fuel, but that is always fixed by disconnecting the batteries and forcing a hard reset.
I figured the steering wheel/cruise control problem was due to either a broken clock spring and/or the brake pressure switch. I replaced both those as well as the airbag because the horn relay failed closed when I put it back in the wheel. It did not fix the problem. The steering wheel buttons still intermittently illuminate, but the radio controls and cruise control buttons do not function regardless. The truck isn't giving any codes either.
The towing system will activate lights and brakes on a trailer as well as set the gain, but it will not detect that it is actually hooked to a trailer. I cleaned the pins, but I haven't looked any further into it. No codes for this as well.
The reverse sensors/system does not work. It will lock itself in "off". I am guessing this is because one or more of the sensors have failed, but I am skeptical that it would be just that given the trucks other problems.
The radio does work, but the auxiliary input/mode will not work. I ran the diagnostics on the radio and on 'Test 1' I got "SELF FAIL B1342 ECU" and "B2477 CONFIG". I tried to clear the codes, but I can't. I think this means the radio is kill.
Okay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?