Changing from manual windows to power? I don't want to swap doors because of the repaint issue but wondered what is involved, if it's even possible. I just read how to convert the rear windows on a Super Cab to power and it got me wondering about the front.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 F250 Super duty that had a battery die (I left the keys in the ignition switched on overnight) and after jumping the battery off the vehicle started up but now I have no power door lock or window functions. Any reason a dead battery issue might affect the power locks and windows?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 Lariat 6.0L Crew Cab. My wipers, radio and power windows don't work. I have painstakingly checked every one of the fuses to see if there was one or more blown. All were OK.
I removed the fuse panel under the dash and have disassembled it to look for obvious clues, burnt wires/heat damage etc. but everything looks fine. Have pushed all of the fuses in to make sure they were seated properly. No joy.
I recently replaced one of the back windows in my truck and had to detach the rear dome light and I remember one of the wires sparking. Where to start diagnosing this problem?
I am changing my 99 f250 4x4 from auto to manual tranny. I am just looking for pics of where the hydro line runs. I don't want line rubbing something and ruining line. Like does line run under the cab wiring harness? Like between wiring and firewall? Where on firewall does reservior get mounted usually? Are the holes all ready there for it that I am not seeing?
View 1 RepliesActually a couple of questions. I've had one oil change in my F250 6.7. Getting close to the second one. So, my question is, what is the computer using to decide when to tell you that you should change the oil? And, if you changed to a synthetic oil, could you go longer between changes? And, if so, would the truck's sensors be able to tell the difference in the type of oil being used?
View 4 RepliesI am new to being an F250 owner. Just recently purchased a 2000 F250 SD 4x4 with the 5.4 and a 5 speed trans. Got a pretty good deal on it, because I knew some work had to be put into it, and do plan on dropping the trans. Currently, if the truck has been sitting for a little bit, not cool, but not running for a little bit, when I start it, whether it is in gear or in neutral, there is a noise coming from what seems to be the clutch area.
After a couple minutes of driving, this noise goes away and all sounds as it should. A little bit of researching turned up the possibility of the throw out bearing being bad, however, I found other posts online that doubt this. Another symptom that I assume is connected is that if I go to put it in reverse at 0mph from neutral, it grinds.
In order to go into reverse, I have to press in the clutch, put it in first, then put it in reverse, at which point it goes in no problem. I had already planned on replacing the clutch because it seems to me that would be the logical choice as to where the problem originates, so no issue there. But perhaps I'm wrong??
I just bought a 2011 F250 Super Duty 6.2L and the manual A/C buttons were stuck on Max A/C and wouldn't change. I fiddled with every switch on the dash thinking it might be a stuck switch and eventually all the buttons started working. This truck has SYNC, which works fine, and I can't find anything else wrong with the truck.
When the buttons are lit, it blows good and cold, in A/C and Max A/C. The problem I'm having now is that they won't light up at all. Visual inspection shows nothing obvious under the hood, and it has a charge of freon. I drove and it id working just fine, but stuck on the Max setting. I'm thinking electrical gremlins, like stuck switch or a relay...
My manual hubs on my 2006 f250 have become very hard to rotate so I would like to replace them. I saw that bronco graveyard has Warn hubs for a Dana 60 front axle. Is this what I need? My door sticker with the axle code is illegible, and I want to make sure I get the right hubs.
View 5 RepliesCruise won't power up. Tried entering diagnostics but did not get any flashes. By-passed switch on master cylinder, did not make any difference. Horn honks. Brake lights work correctly.
View 9 RepliesJust moved into the 250 from years of 150's. Now have 98 miles and read that the tran would have noise but normal while breaking in.
whats normal, not used to this much Clunk while changing from P to D ect. More noise than used too I guess.
3.73 gears
2014 F250, 6.2 gas 2wd....
Well, I've been meaning to get to servicing/re-greasing the front hubs/bearings for a while but somehow it keeps getting moved down the list.
2000 F250SD 4X4 Gas Manual Hubs+Trans
I'm currently going through the many threads that turned up in my search query.
Driving slow with the windows down it seems like a low whine or squeal coming from the left front. Tone changes when working the steering wheel left and right. Haven't detected any grinding sounds. Any other techniques for isolating the problem? It's going up on jack stands tonight and I'm going to see if there is any wobble from the front wheels and I'll listen as I turn each of the front wheels. Oddly, the right front hub is hard to turn. Left front turns easy.
Viewed Rob259956's videos on servicing the hubs. Currently researching accessing the wheel bearings. It seems pretty straightforward. Truck has been off road but not mud bogged or anything like that. I'm guessing a bad bearing will be easy to identify as will a bad o-ring but any other stuff I should look closely at?
I just bought this truck and for some reason sometimes the power windows and radio will not work for awhile then it will start working. I replaced the relay on the accessory and I still have power to the dome lights and instrument cluster. I am kind of at a stand still on this matter. I have read that there is quit a few problems like this and not very many explanations to resolve it.
View 5 RepliesI just bought a used 2013 F-250 4x4 and it came with the snow plow pkg. heavy duty front springs. I love the truck, but won't be plowing with it, and I don't need the rough ride (and don't like the look of the front end higher than the rear)
How hard is it to swap out the front coil springs and replace them with the "regular" ones?
I just bought this Super Duty with a 5.4L engine. I want to do a fluid change on the transmission. From what I read, this transmission needs to be hot flushed in order to change out all the fluid. I have not called my dealer yet to see if they do hot flushes. If my local dealer does not have this machine, can I just drop the old fluid from the pan and be ok? I have not gotten under the truck yet to see if it has an external filter.
View 6 RepliesSo I'm off work today, and want to service the transmission. I've got both filters, and a 18 quarts of SP, but am not familiar with this transmission, and understand there's no drain plug for the converter. Want to get all of the fluid out, best I can. I'm at 153,000 on this truck with no issues. I do not desire to flush, just want a fluid change.
Searching the forums brings up a lengthy list of transmission threads, but nothing yet that gives me the step-by-step.
My 2004 F250 has been having issues with the radio. Its been randomly changing stations and volume. I think its due to moisture in the dash. Its stops when I run the heater thru the dash vents.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 f250 super duty extended cab with the v10. Over the past week it has been running fine and it will all of a sudden lose power and dies. I've been able to start it back up once right away and a few times it started up after a few hours of messing with it.
So, after the truck dies it will crank and crank but will not start. We have checked fuel pressure and nothing. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump and it turns on. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box and got a fuel pressure reading of 40 psi. But when we crank we have no pressure.
When we apply direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box the truck will only crank and not start.
2001 F250, 7.3L ... After much diagnosis, I've found that the 4 positive feeds to the transfer case relay base have no power to them. The fuse that feeds them (#17 CJB) is fine and when I jump from the fuse hot side directly to the transfer case motor contacts on the relay base, it shifts fine. As far as I can tell, there is only one wire leading from that fuse so there must be a junction block somewhere that splits it into the 4 wires that feed the relay block. I've looked underneath and found nothing. How the 1 wire gets split into 4? On diagrams this junction point is labeled, but I don't know where to find that.
View 2 RepliesOn the surface, the F-250/350 seems to have great brakes: big rotors, vented front and rear, and dual-piston calipers front and rear. But, I have two problems:
One is the annoying 'grunt' the brakes make every time you change from Park to Drive, or Park to Reverse, or Drive to Reverse. Its as if under normal brake pressure, the brakes cannot hold the truck from moving against the torque convertor engaging. It's not just my truck, I've heard older SD's with the 5.4L or diesel do this too. If you push the pedal really hard, it won't grunt.
The second problem I think is the root of the first: mushy brakes. Maybe I'm just used to driving european cars with firm brakes, but every time I apply my truck's brakes, it feels like I need to bleed the system! The truck does slow pretty well, and I realize it's heavy, but how can the pedal feel be improved? Maybe replacing the rubber sections with braided stainless?
Lastly, the truck has a 'hill-hold' feature which is retarded in an automatic transmission. My problem with it, is that sometimes it sticks on...engage drive, the truck won't move...a second later its like something gets unstuck and the truck kind of lurches forward.
I have a 99 f250 with some procomp (325s) that are 12.5 wide with a 6in lift my superchip tuner can change the trannys shift points but I am pretty sure a new gear ratio is needed. I dont do a whole lot of off roading with it its mainly my driving around and highway rig whats a good gear ratio that would work for me
View 9 RepliesMy truck is a 2008 F250 6.4 Powerstroke 4x4 King Ranch, CrewCab, Shortbed.
I don't know which rear axle ratio it has - maybe someone can help me. the tires mounted are 275/60R17 and in fifth gear (TC locked) the engine has 2000rpm @ 70mph. I think it is a bit to much so I want to install a kit with and lower ratio. I pull trailers just sometimes and here in germany these only have 3,5tons max weight. So I think I don't need this power at 70mph. 1750rpm would be enough. How do I have to modify the front axle ratio if I get a lower-ratio-rear-axle?
I want to lower the fuel consumption. After some modifications, the truck needs round about 12-13L/100km (18-20mpg) and I think it is possible to lower this as bit.