Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 - Bed Is Rusted
Apr 30, 2015
I have an 01 f250 superduty bed is rusted what is the difference on a 04 f350 superduty dually bed to mine? Are they finished under the dually fenders?
View 3 RepliesI have an 01 f250 superduty bed is rusted what is the difference on a 04 f350 superduty dually bed to mine? Are they finished under the dually fenders?
View 3 RepliesMy '03 F250 has a rusted bed. Both Rear fenders have it and if i didn't have a bed liner the bed would be rusted through. Where i can get a new take off or used bud decent bed? Any color doesn't matter just needs to be the short bed not the 8ft one.
View 4 RepliesOK, so I have a 01 f350sd and i went to check my oil and the dipstick tube itself is so rusted it snapped in half so I took it to the dealer which I knew was going to be over priced labor but still checked the tube itself is 20 dollars but labor is upwards of 300-500... My engine is the 5.4 triton.
View 2 RepliesI recently bought an 05 F250 CC SB. One or more of the bed support rails is rusted and the front one (right behind the cab) is bad enough that I can move the bed up and down with my hand. I've read several threads on a few forums about replacing them and I'm wanting to do it myself.
One other thread I read on this forum (link) gives a pretty straightforward outline of how he successfully did it and even gives dimensions for the rails he made. I'm thinking of doing pretty much the same thing, but he didn't mention the gauge/thickness of metal that he used. I read about the Dorman replacement kit, but they don't mention gauge either.
Going to be picking up a 2014 bed soon. I have one rusted cab corner and both door bottoms are rusted I really can't buy new doors but I can replace the cab corner. What should I do about the door rust? My plan is to use monstaliner on the entire truck in a dark grey color. Any way to keep it from rusting any farther?
View 14 RepliesI have my front axles out to replace the U-Joints but they are rusted in there. Even the C-Clip is fused/rusted in place. I use my flat wheel grinder and ground out the C-Clips but the U-Joint caps wont budge. Been soaking in penetrating oil too. Any way other than drilling them out?
View 1 RepliesOkay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?
I replaced a rear rusted brake line a couple of years ago. It rusted where the line met the bracket. I'd never done this before but bought a flare (flaring?) tool and fixed it.
This week the longer line that runs down the length of the truck started leaking. It looks like the line was once held in place by a small bracket just in front of the rear wheel but it wasn't in that bracket anymore. I guess it rubbed against the metal and water/sand rusted it out.
A local garage said they'd need to drop the fuel tank and estimated that it would be several hours (and hundreds of dollars) to do the job. It looks like I might be able to cut the old one out and then fish the new line up through there and replace it.
Also, what is the diameter of the line? It is a 2004 F350. I can certainly cut it out first and then take a piece of it to the local auto parts place to get the replacement line.
I have a 99 F250 Super Duty 4x4. The u-bolt bracket on the front passenger side has rusted through and broken in two places. It has broken right at the hole for one of the u-bolts, which then broke the sway bar bracket off (so the sway bar is no longer attached on the passenger side). Also, the track bar bracket has broken off.
Is there a replacement bracket that can be purchased? Or does it need to be fabricated from scrap? The u-bolt bracket, sway bar bracket, and track bar bracket are all one whole piece. It is welded to the axle, so it would need to be cut off. Then the new bracket would need to be welded back on.
On my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). I see Autozone has them.
View 14 RepliesMy truck: 2001 F250 V8 Triton Automatic 4x4
Problem: 4x4 won't engage
Symptoms: No dash lights....nothing happens when I turn the 4x4 switch. When I start the truck I hear what sounds like a motor (transfer case motor maybe?) trying to switch (even though my dash switch is on 2WD)... It tries three times and stops.
What I've done: Checked fuses ...they appear ok to me
I don't have a maintenance manual yet ...
The 4x4 used to work up until about 2 weeks ago. Started having a hard time getting it to go into (and out of) 4x4 and then it just stopped all together.
I have been leaking oil on one of my work trucks. I do not know what the part is called or named. the leaks seems to be coming from above or behind a part that the driver side motor mount. As you can see in the image, the part has a sensor and a concave dip that runs along the middle of it. Well, I stuck my fingers behind that and it has a dip on the other side too which face up and that dip was puddled with oil. I need to know what that part is called or named or what is directly behind it that can be causing the leak. I hope its just a gasket and it is not cracked.
Part that is leaking behind. 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty V10
Having trouble with the truck going into gear. It started by having to put the truck in first and manually shift until in drive, once it finally engaged and would drive normal. But now im having trouble with going into gear at all. What could be the issue????
View 8 Replies2001, F250, Lariat, Super Duty, 7.3 engine with towing package.
It ran seemingly perfect when I parked it and it sat for maybe 10 days to 2 weeks and wouldn't crank. Battery is fine and fully charged. Glow plug heaters work OK. Engine spins really fast, almost like it had no compression. (Not sure though) Temperature in the 30's -50's. I did some research on line and decided to change the Cam Positioning Sensor (CPS). Didn't work, still won't crank. I originally tried my Cheap Harbor Freight OBDII . (Don't waste your money, IMO). What should I troubleshoot next/ or try.
I have a vibration in my 2001 f250. At about 45 to 55 it vibrates. I have changed u joints in the rear drive shaft. Pulled it again tonight. U joints look good, no play. I am going to pull the front shaft and see if it makes a difference. I did notice some play on the rear shaft where it slides. Could this be causing the problem?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 dually and the brake line that runs the frame rail finally rusted through. It runs on the same side as the fuel tank. Is it easier to leave the old one in and run a new one along side it? I sure hate to think that I'll have to drop the tank for this.
View 7 RepliesHow to diagnose misfire with no CEL? 2001 F250 5.4. What could cause it?
View 13 RepliesCruise won't power up. Tried entering diagnostics but did not get any flashes. By-passed switch on master cylinder, did not make any difference. Horn honks. Brake lights work correctly.
View 9 RepliesMy '01 f250 7.3 has gotten hard to start. It seems to maybe be due to cooler weather, but not always. I have been told that there is some sort of valve in the fuel tank that could possibly cause this when the fuel gets around a 1/4 tank or so. But, it's doing it at any fuel level. But it doesn't do it all the time. I do notice it more in cooler weather. Anyway, when I try to crank it, I'll let the "wait to start" light go off and then wait a bit more. I'll turn it over and it almost as if the batteries are weak.
I'll stop and give it a few seconds and turn it again and it will normally start. But sometimes I'll do this 5 or 6 times and it will finally fire. But the more I have to try, it's like fuel builds in the cylinders and it smoke like a coal train for a minute or so. Almost like gas motor that has been flooded. But the smoke burns off and it runs like a top. I was thinking the batteries may be weak , but sometimes the starter will spin the motor with no trouble at all. I'm at a loss. Is it possible for fuel to drain from the system causing it to have to reprime itself? Here lately the smoking has me concerned even though it clears up.
I have a 2001 F250 V10, 150,000 miles, gas, very basic truck (no power windows, no cruise, no security system, no power locks, etc). In it's previous life, it was an IDOT highway truck I purchased at auction in 2005. Used primarily to pull horse trailer, less than 2000 miles per year. Stored under cover when not in use. Windshield leaks very little, but generally not used when raining.
Last week, 9pm, horn starts blaring solid tone. I go out and unlock door, open door, it stops. I start truck, still fine, turn truck off. Lock door, close door, starts blaring again. I reopen door, leave unlocked, close door, then get intermittent beeps. I reopen door, disconnect battery because it's late, I was going out of town, and felt bad for my neighbors. Just got back in town, too afraid to reconnect battery and not be home in case it starts going off again. I had last used the truck about 36 hours before the horn started going off, weather about 70 degrees overnight.
I've read other threads, but can't find one that fits (I have no cruise, kept out of rain, not freezing cold, not diesel).
Replacing the evaporator? I am just curious how big of a job it is. I have the a/c equipment to service the system. Its on my 01 f-250 with a 7.3.
View 6 Replies