Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 - Antifreeze Leak Parked The Truck In Slightly Forward Downhill Position
Jun 9, 2017
I have a 2001 F250 HD gas engine. I have had this truck since 2010. I drive it only occasionally and had not driven it in a few weeks so decided to drive it the other day. I drove about 30 minutes with about half of that on the interstate. It was a fairly hot day mid 80s and I had the AC running. I parked it at a very slight forward downhill position. When I came out after 45 minutes, I saw a puddle of antifreeze in front of the vehicle. When I looked underneath the truck it was primarily dripping from the oil filter canister but also from a couple of other places. I was down about 4 inches in the reservoir. My small truck camper is on the vehicle and I had my coolant container in there.
I topped it off and traveled about 10 minutes on surface streets to my next stop.After about two hours there I came out to the truck to leave and there was not a drop. I then drove 25 minutes home with a little on the interstate running the AC and when I got home not a drop. I got up underneath it and looked all around and couldn't really see an obvious source. My neighbor is a mechanic of sorts and I asked him about it. He had a couple of theories but one involved the heater. He said to crank it up, let it warm up, and turn the heat on and see if I smelled anti-freeze. I did that and there was not a smell at all. He also said something about a cold leak.
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I am having some intermittent long cranks when parked facing down hill (even very slight downhill). It seems like it only happens cold and is worse when parked for longer. Truck has all updated parts under the hood and is under warranty for another month. I would like to know where to start diagnosing (what would cause this symptom) since I'm sure it won't do it when I take it to the shop right before warranty is up for one last go over.
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Went to change plugs on my '01 F250 5.4. When I pulled the coils, there was antifreeze in the tubes. Intake manifold gasket? How big a job, both in driveway or at shop.
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 coolant leak only when the truck is cold. Ive noticed it in the morning when I leaving for work. It looked liked it was coming from the passenger side yesterday and today it's on the drivers side when I'm sure is because my driveway has a small tilt to it I've looked everywhere I could under the hood and don't see it leaking.
I don't have any temp problems or white smoke and my coolant level has changed that much and for a few days the drip stopped now it's back. I tried to search for the answer but can't find it. I'm just wanted to make sure it's not the head gasket but I'm sure I would have a sign it it was. I will include where I saw it dripping from. It's parked on flat ground here ... That's where I saw a drip coming from driver side ....
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I have been leaking oil on one of my work trucks. I do not know what the part is called or named. the leaks seems to be coming from above or behind a part that the driver side motor mount. As you can see in the image, the part has a sensor and a concave dip that runs along the middle of it. Well, I stuck my fingers behind that and it has a dip on the other side too which face up and that dip was puddled with oil. I need to know what that part is called or named or what is directly behind it that can be causing the leak. I hope its just a gasket and it is not cracked.
Part that is leaking behind. 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty V10
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My 1999 F250 has a pretty good shimmy at around 65 to 75 but only when going down hill. It seems to intensify on the steeper grades. I am thinking possibly not enough caster and when going down hill the geometry changes enough to start the shimmy. It will subside as soon as it levels out. Up hill or level it drives fine and is smooth and steers well. It has the solid front 4wd axle....
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I'm from SC where we are currently getting our rainfall for the next 3 years, so it's an occasion to find leaks. My 2001 F250 has developed one right in the middle of the passenger side dash, I saw it running down a white vacuum tube and dripping off to the floor mat. Is there a place in the cowl that will hold water and leak?
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I have a 2001 F250 with the 5.4l. I got home today and a lot of steam was coming from under the hood. I couldn't see where it was coming from. I see a reflection on top of the engine near the intake manifold. The truck is not overheating and the heater is working great. I changed the thermostat several months ago. What the issue may be. I checked the dip stick and not visible signs of water in the oil. What this could be? Is there something besides the visible thermostat housing that may have blown a gasket?
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I have a 2001 F-250 XLT 4x4 with V10. Truck will not start. No fuel pressure. My Haynes manual does not show ignition or fuel delivery wiring. I have found the relay box behind the radio/dash. I need a wiring diagram and info on which relay is the fuel pump relay. Want to know so I can jump relay to see if fuel pump is okay.
Truck had sat for a few weeks being ran very little, so had to jump start yesterday. Ran for about 15 min, the shut off, re-started and ran for 30 min. Truck sat for about 1.5 hours then would not start. Charged battery overnight and it is 100%.
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My 2001 f250 on occasion will roll a very uncomfortable distance when I put it in park. Not all the time, but enough to concern me. It will roll a good 12-18" before the park rod or what have you engages. Doesn't seem to be affected by grade. Matter if fact it has always done it on just slight grades. Nothing like a boat ramp. It rolls enough that if someone had been front or back it would have bumped them.
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I have a 2011 F-250 6.2l with a P0456 code. Is there a common fix for this issue?
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 5.4 Triton motor with a Transmission Leak. I have drained the Transmission, replaced the Transmission pan gasket and filter. The auto parts store also had me purchase the Torque Converter bearings/seal along with enough transmission fluid and a bottle of Lukas Transmission fix. Do I really need to replace the bearings/seal if I have everything else already ?
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Have 2001 F-250 7.3 PSD, automatic, ESOF (had to replace the original hubs with Warns)have kept up the maintenance,oil, grease, ATF fluid & filter, truck has been virtually trouble free. About 2 weeks ago I decided to go across an area of the lawn, as I was going (in 2 wheel drive)I felt the tires spin a little so I stopped got out and locked the hubs, got back in truck turned t-case to 4 high. had to rock the truck out of a damp area but nothing really.
So I got back to where I came in at (in reverse about 100') stopped put it back in 2 wheel drive, tried to go forward, very difficult, sluggish, got back in driveway had to back the truck in, will not go forward at all now. Checked all fuses, rapped the the t-case motor, no codes. So I thought I'd move the ruck, have a winch that will pull it out by the barn, I could not even move the truck forward by pulling it with a winch. As I said have never had any problems with truck. Transmission fluid is good, clean no burnt smell.
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Have a 99 F250 V10 was having issues with it going in limp mode took it to the shop they said number 1 cylinder running hot I had the head rebuild all new gaskets less than 10 miles truck shuts off pullover no antifreeze put antifreeze and water in Reservoir start back up look at Reservoir it's empty shut it off pour more water in Reservoir and it go straight down to empty.
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I have a 2011 F350 diesel 6.7l. I have had this smell outside the front of the vehicle for months and so I took it finally to a dealer to solve the leak problem. They spent hours on it and eventually found a leak in a tube at the rear of the engine under the intake manifold and supposedly solved my problem. That was 2 weeks ago and I have driven about 300km.(180 miles) but the smell is still noticeable. How long should I wait before it goes away or should I return it to the dealer for further work?
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I noticed my 16 ccsb 4WD lariat 6.2 was slightly leaning to one side in a parking lot yesterday. My driveway at home is dirt and far from level so I would never notice at home. So before I pulled out of the parking spot I got my tape measure out. I've got 41.5 inches from ground to top of wheel well on the drivers side rear. On the passenger side rear I've got 42.25 inches from ground to top of wheel well.
So darn it the truck is 3/4 inch leaning to the driver side. Is this normal? I can understand it not being exact to the millimeter however 3/4 inch seems to me like a lot of tolerance. The bed was empty when i measured and Air pressure in both rear tires is 70psi. I did pull a load with about 2,000 pounds tongue weight the other day however that shouldn't make any difference.
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2003 F250 SC Lariat. 4x4, 6spd manual transmission, Manual hubs and manual 4wd shift. The truck shifts into 4wd perfectly. When I shift back into 2wd the transfer case stays in 4wd. If I back up it will go into 2wd.
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It's an 04 F350 6.8L This past winter when it was cold I would start it up and it would rock forward and bounce back as is you shifted in to park while rolling. Now that it's warmed up it won't jerk forward but the whole body shakes only at start up. As much as I like the idea of of the raw torque being so powerful the truck twists with power I don't think that's the case.
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This is a 6.4L powerstroke, but this is not an engine specific problem. I have a no crank condition that appeared overnight while parked in the driveway. I CAN start it by using the solenoid connector wire near the air filter box and supplying 12v from + battery post. I THINK that eliminates batteries, solenoid and starter.
Now that leaves Trans range sensor or (NSS) and the ignition switch. I can test and get 12V (light) on the Blu/Wh wire from ign sw when turned to start, so that seems good. And as far as I can tell the trans range sensor is internal to the tranny, and I really don't want to go there if possible....
Also there are no codes on the Solus scanner I borrowed. And the voltage is showing as 11.7 on the scanner....is that low enough to prevent voltage from being sent to the solenoid thru the SJB and/or PCM even though engine will start as described?
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I've been noticing that one of my front hubcaps has been backing off slightly. I tap it back on and it's good for a while. But lately I'm noticing that I have to tap it back on more often. I took it off today, thinking that I might need a new one. The part number on the inside is IC34-IA096-AB. It's on my 2003 Ford F250 4x4.
I pulled the opposite cover and tried it on the side I'm having trouble with and noticed the same thing. Upon further inspection, I noticed that the chrome plated trim piece that covers the steel rim has tabs that should be flat to the rim. I'm referring to the area where the trim piece ends, near the lug nuts. On the one that I'm not having trouble with, it's flush/flat all around. But on the one I'm having trouble with, some of the ends are not flush to the rim. That is why the hubcap is not seating in those areas. I can see the gap and I can also push down on that section. It's almost as if that trim piece is separating from the rim? I tried using a punch and giving it a couple of whacks with a hammer, but it doesn't press it back to being flush with the rim.
Why would the end of that trim piece that covers the whole wheel lift up on the ends? Is there a way to get it to sit flat?
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I have a 1999 ford f250 5.4 2 wheel drive i believe its a 4r100 transmission. auto. I have reverse but no forward gears. Ive heard this is a common problem , and on my reverse it has to hit 3000 rpm before it even tries to move and D 1 2 i have nothing only thing i hear is the engine sound changes gets deeper. Do i need a whole new transmission or is this fixable.
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