Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 5.4L - How To Manually Turn Over The Engine
Jun 23, 2017
I have an 2001 F-250 5.4L.
It has the Triton engine and the problem with spark plugs blowing out. I have a kit with thick inserts that I'm going to install. I need to drill and tap the heads, but first I need to get the piston in the cylinder I'm working on to get close to the bottom and have all the valves shut. But I can't manually turn the engine over. I tried using a long ratchet with a socket that fits the nut on the crankshaft pully, but the nut just seems to tighten more, instead of turning the engine over.
And trying to turn the fan pulley doesn't do it either. Also, using the electric start for a split second at a time still seems to turn the engine over too quickly for me to get the piston where I need it. Do I need to pull all the spark plugs to do this? I really just wanted to work on one cylinder for now, instead of opening up a can of worms.
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I need to get the valves closed on one of the cylinders. So how do I turn it over slowly by hand? I couldn't find videos on youtube. It seems that it's just common knowledge on how to do that.
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2004 F250. Just got about 6 inches of snow. I use this truck to plow my private road. A few other residences on the road rely on my plowing.
I usually use 4WD Low and gear 2 on automatic transmission to plow. Hub manually locked. But today, when I shifted to 2, and pressed on the gas pedal. The truck was not engaging to drive, as if it were in park or neutral. And when I tried to shift to park, there is grinding noise and wouldn't allow me. I had to turn off the engine to be able to shift to park.
When I manually freed the hub and used 2WD High and gear D, I was able to drive the truck without problem.
Later, I tried using 4WD Low and gear D, and was able to drive a little distance before the truck no longer drives, and pressing on the gas is as if the truck was in park or neutral.
Previous to this earlier, I was driving down the private road to see how much snow we got. Without the plow on, I might have gone up to 10 or 15 mph, and still using 4WD Low and gear 2, maybe for 1/2 mile. Could I have damaged something by driving too fast in that setting?
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Its a 2001 f250 with a 5,4. I just recently put a new shot block in it, the short block is a svt short block for an 01 lightning. every thing off old motor went on new svt block just fine, and it drop in just fine. only it will not warm up i let it run for 45 min the other day and on the gauge it would not come past the c. and i do believe the gauge to be accurate because the heat in the cab sucks and the top rad hose is just warm, not as hot as it should be. I've already put 2 new thermostats in it so I don't believe that to be the issue either.
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2001 f250 5.4L v8. Engine temp seems really low. The gauge is reading barely above the cold in normal range. The heater is only blowing out 75 degree air at the warmest. It gets to its normal temperature with in 15 minutes even when its real cold out. I live in Minnesota and its been a really cold winter so having hot heat would be nice. I just bought this truck at the beginning of the winter. Whats going on?
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I have a 2001 f250 with the 5.4 I replaced the belt because of belt squeal and after replacing it the squeal is gone. now after the truck gets to its normal temp and I stop at a gas station for dip I will leave it running and when I come out it has this loud chirping noise it kinda sounds mechanical but it very well could be something on the belt drive. I am stumped it goes away after I start driving but I am kind of nervous about what it could be.
And the only time I hear it is while the truck is at normal temp and in park I have rolled the windows down and can not hear it while driving or at traffic lights. a part of me says it could be the fan clutch and now that it has a good belt on it I am hearing a sound of maybe the clutch going out or a pulley bearing starting to go out. Where I should go from here?
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The truck is in my Sig 01 F250 5.4
Just got back from a long trip with it. Parked it for 3 days, all was running fine. Went to dinner Sat night and all was great, left the restaurant and as soon as I started the engine I noticed a slight vibration. As soon as I hit 42 miles per hour, it started shaking pretty good. I pulled over and checked under the truck to make sure I did not have anything I was not supposed to hanging down.
Driveshaft looked good, nothing leaking from rear end or tranny. When it does vibrate, the Tach shows the unhappiness as well. This a.m. driving to work it was vibrating at all speeds and shifting was very rough, had a hard time deciding if it wanted to be in second or third gear. I don't think this is drive train issue... When it shutters and sputters at 40ish MPH, its almost like it loses power and I have to let off the gas. and then under power it shakes badly.
I had the super chip settings for performance tow when this started and then I changed it back to stock settings, thinking it might work, which it only got worse. Changing the settings with the Superchip you have to disable the fuel system and I do this by pulling the fuel pump fuse under the hood in the power distro box.
I think the ujoints are still good, the oil and tranny fluid are spot on. Hubs are locked but in 2WD. Had all the front end replaced 15K miles ago. Brand new tires and wheels in Sept, front end alignment done at same time, front brakes were 90% and rear brakes at 20%.
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I have a 2000 F250 with a V10, that won't start or turn over. I replaced the solenoid on the fender well, auto store check the starter 3 times and said it was good, new battery installed and same issue of not starting.
Here is a video of what it does when attempting to start : F250 starting issue - YouTube....
Where and what to look at?
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2004 S/D 4x4 V10 F-250 72,000 miles. Replaced Battery about 6 months ago. I have tested the Battery today and it's fine. I had replaced starter at same time. The issue I'm having now is that the engine will not start. Behaves as if the Battery has low charge state, Which is not the case. Starter engages and will "crank" for a turn or two and thats it. like low charge on battery. I don't know what to look for next, except pull the starter and test it. Fluids at Level.
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I noticed that my 4WD is only working now when I manually lock the hubs in (they have that options!), and the air blows out the defroster when I shift, so it looks like I have a vacuum leak. Where are the typical leak points on a 2006 F250? What's the best way to confirm a leak (other than just replacing all of the hose)?
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So, when trying to start my vehicle it doesn't even turn over. Just clicks continuously. Both of my batteries are putting out 12 Volts. I tried the old arcing my solenoid with a screw driver while key is in on position and I got a couple of turns, but it wouldn't completely turnover. My solenoid has power going to it. Checked all fuses that could coincide with this issue. Not sure where to go from here. I have an 05 Ford F-250 XLT.
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I have 08 f250 6.4 was driving down the road truck just died. Will turn over but not crank. I've checked oil level, water level, fuses, fuel cut off switch. Still no start.
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I have a 1999 f250 sd with the 7.3. I'm not sure what is going on with my pickup. When I turn to the right i can turn with one finger, but when I turn left i have to put some muscle into it. Power steering fluid is full. I raised the front end and it turns both ways easy. My ball joints feel fine, there is no tire shake when i have it off the ground. My tie rods feel fine also, nice and tight. I was thinking about replacing the steering sector to see if thats the issue but wanted to get a second opinion first.
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Okay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?
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Battery tested good, tried jumping it as well with cables and with portable pack.
I hear two clicks under the hood (NOT a continuous type click you hear when the battery is dead). The first seems to be up near the passenger fender well when the key is turn to the start position, the second click seems to be down under the motor near the passenger side (near the starter I assume, couldn't tell very well) when the key is RELEASED from the start position. The motor doesn't budge, I don't see any belts flinch or pulleys move to indicate that the starter is engaging. I don't hear anything that sounds like a starter engaging to me.
If not, where the starter solenoid is on this thing? is it separate like the other older ford's I've owned or is it now on the starter? Is there any fuse-able links that could cause this? Wiring diagram? Is there a way to jump the solenoid like in the old school days (e.g. with a screwdriver or wrench)? would like to get this home without towing it or fixing what is really wrong with it in the parking lot.
It's in negative to single digit temps here in Indy now, I fired it up in the morning in negative temps, drove it work. Came out to go home, and now this. So something happened between this morning and now and it's not the battery.
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My 2000 F-250 V10 won't start has a new alternator and new starter all it does is Click when I turn the key?
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I have no 4x4 lights on in cluster when turn the key in the on position and it doesn't engage when I turn my 4x4 selector. And I don't hear anything in the relays .
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On my 2008 f250 I can not turn the hubs without a set of pliers...does that mean I need new hubs....
What auto tranny do I have with the 5.4.. is it a six speed...
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Starts fine most of the time. Then suddenly key will turn but not engage ignition. Power OK to everything but ignition. Have replaced starter & ignition module. Still does the same thing. Leave for a while & truck starts fine. 2006 F250 6 litre diesel ...
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2005 6.0 F250 SD Powerstroke... Truck died on the road and wouldn't start
The symptoms were... I changed the Radiator and had the cooling system flushed... couple of weeks later it stopped while driving... did some research and talked to a few people and the STC valve seemed to be the issue... So new STC, new intake gaskets, cleaned and new EGR gaskets and I just put in a new Turbo (Ford installed it)... had a stripped bolt under the EGR cooler arm and had to remove the Turbo to get to it.... 14 days later......
Changed STC fitting and gaskets in the high pressure oil pump, IPR screen, exhaust manifold gaskets and Cleaned the EGR and changed gaskets and no start. Tried starter fluid and it turned but wouldn't stay on and the batteries died. Would you all say I'm on the right path?
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1999 F250 super duty. I am having a problem with the front right turn signal not working. The indicator on the dash also does not work but I can hear the relay clicking double time and the rear signal works. I have changed the bulb and fuses and went under the dash and the column to be sure a connection had not come loose. I have looked through the forums to try and find an answer with no luck. What to try next?
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