Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F150 - Jerking / Jumping At 40 - 60 MPH
Jan 14, 2017
Just purchased a 2001 Ford F150 super crew lariat v8 4.6/5.4 2v OAD at 156k miles, iv had no problems with it until I drove over the pass and after 2hours of driving my truck started to jerk when I accelerate between about 40-60mph. I don't experience any other problems over 60 it runs smoothly and in town under 40 it also runs smoothly, no check engine light. The next day is still continues to make a jerking motion, which feels like from the rear....
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My truck is a 99 Superduty, low miles and no rust, Id like to find a tailgate for it. There's a guy on CL selling one from a 2001 F150' claims it'll fit. I'd like to know.
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My truck is acting up. Last night when I was parallel parking I noticed the RPM was jumping, I then noticed the OverDrive switch was blinking. I turned off and turned it back on and the issue went away. This morning on my way to work, it did exactly the same and it automatically corrected itself. The overDrive ON/OFF light keeps blinking.
My truck : 7.3 Diesel, Auto trans, 86 K Miles, Super Chip.
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I have a bucking and jerking 6.0 right now. It will buck and then won't go above 2000 rpm or it will lurch or if I hold the pedal down lose power unless I drop it below 2000rpm. If I put the pedal down the truck wont go above 2000 rpm and will go up on speed. the erg was deleted but its trowing crazy amount of white smoke from the exhaust. When the truck starts up some white smoke comes out but eventually clears up when you keep it under 2000 rpm.
When on idle you can step down the pedal and hear the truck failing on revs like an injector issue but i checked and they arent the problem. the problem got fixed for a couple of weeks when i changed the Y pipe because the other was ruptured but the problem came back and its even worse now i can use the truck for nothing.
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I have a 2011 F250 Lariat, 6.2L V8. The past couple months i have noticed truck jerking/lunging during acceleration in the mornings usually between leaving the house and getting on the highway. Over the last 2 weeks the problem has progressed and seems to last longer. I have tried fuel injector cleaner with no success. This morning was the worst so far and after all this time i finally saw the maintenance "wrench" pop up on the on dash.
This was good news to me hoping that a local shop could read the code. However, when i dropped off my daughter and started back up the "wrench" went away. After warming up the problem seems to go away. This morning was so severe i lost speed and felt like the engine was going to stall.
I feel like this is related to the fuel system (injectors/pump/filter) but also haven't changed the spark plugs yet. My truck has 72,000 miles and otherwise is in good shape. How I should move forward?
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The truck. 2005 super d 6.0l. 200,000 miles
The problem. After start and warmup, and then a couple of miles driving, I make a slow 90 degree turn after a stop sign. The wheel in my grip seems to go stupid for a very short time. It responds by jerking and kind of stuttering. Yet it does this only once per trip. Also it does not do this every trip. Just sometimes. After the stutter the steering is Normal. There is no vibration at speed, and no wander from side to side. Everything seems solid and straight.
So what's going on? Should I start by draining the reservoir with a hose and refilling, repeat repeat, to "flush out old fluid". Or is my pump or steering box headed for a fail. Maybe hubs or knuckle joints.
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So I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
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Do f150 bumper is the same as my 03 F250?
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I'm trying to decide if I need a f250 diesel or to just get another f150. I will be pulling a car trailer a couple times a year with a 78 ford f150 with a 460 in it and the rest of the time it will just be a daily driver. The problem I'm having is that the truck weights I'm guessing some where in the 5500 to 6000 lb range not really sure. I live out in Colorado so I will have to drive through the mountains pulling the truck to different mud races and don't want to have to over work the f150.
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So I have a 2005 f250 Super Duty 6.0 diesel it is the xlt with leather. So I don't much care for the steering wheels on this truck so i purchase a 05 f150 steering wheel. The splines and everything match up but the plug for the cruise control does not, need a wiring diagram or have done the swap and can tell me what wires connect where.
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I went out getting firewood in my 2001 F350 4X4 6.8l V10 auto . Backed up to the slash pile, put the truck in 4X4 Low and went to work.
When we finished I flipped the switch to 2WD, but the transfer case would not dis-engage and the IDIOT LIGHT on the dashboard stays on 4X4 Low... I can't get the truck out of 4X4 Low. I turned the hubs from auto to lockand its still stuck in low range.
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so long story short a few weeks ago my truck would start clicking the pump. Every 3 seconds it will click and stop. Tried different pumps, upside down, nothing works. Now it won't even go in like something is stuck in the fuel neck and its spitting gas back out. I stuck a wire and it went down pretty far. I see people saying the evap lines but I have no clue where they are.
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Okay, so the truck is a 2001 F-250 Crew-Cab 7.3l PSD with about 300k on the clock. For a while now the A/C would start out okay when you started the truck and it would blow cold for about 10 minutes then it would start to fade away and get hot. Then later it might get cold again. You could turn the A/C off for a minute or so and turn it back on and it would be cold again.
Took it to a shop and they drained the system and recharged it and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Well, it's still doing it. We were starting to thing maybe it was an electrical issue with the cold/hot switch on the dash until a recently noticed a pattern. If it had gone hot and I got heavy on the accelerator (revving above 2500 RPM), it would get cold and keep blowing cold for 3-5 minutes. So the trick to staying cool as of now is just to hammer down every few minutes.
I read the HVAC FAQs, and it seems like the issue maybe with a slipping compressor clutch. Sound right? Also if that's the issue, it says the solution is: Excessive A/C clutch gap due to clutch wear. Usually, the problem can be resolved by removing a shim from the clutch to bring the gap back into the desired .014-.030 gap. What exactly do I have to do? Where and what are these shims?
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I had a new Fuel Pump put in the cheaper plastic one into my 2001 F250 5.4 with a 112,000 miles.
Problem I am having since getting it back is when filling the gas tank up it will shut the pump off at 3/4 tank. I then have to sit there playing the squeezing game to get more gas in. The vent line looks fine no kinks in it and the tank looks level so what could be the issue causing me this headache?
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My truck: 2001 F250 V8 Triton Automatic 4x4
Problem: 4x4 won't engage
Symptoms: No dash lights....nothing happens when I turn the 4x4 switch. When I start the truck I hear what sounds like a motor (transfer case motor maybe?) trying to switch (even though my dash switch is on 2WD)... It tries three times and stops.
What I've done: Checked fuses ...they appear ok to me
I don't have a maintenance manual yet ...
The 4x4 used to work up until about 2 weeks ago. Started having a hard time getting it to go into (and out of) 4x4 and then it just stopped all together.
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I have been leaking oil on one of my work trucks. I do not know what the part is called or named. the leaks seems to be coming from above or behind a part that the driver side motor mount. As you can see in the image, the part has a sensor and a concave dip that runs along the middle of it. Well, I stuck my fingers behind that and it has a dip on the other side too which face up and that dip was puddled with oil. I need to know what that part is called or named or what is directly behind it that can be causing the leak. I hope its just a gasket and it is not cracked.
Part that is leaking behind. 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty V10
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I recently replaced my abs sensor on my driver side front axle after I broke it trying to grease the hub bearing through the abs hole. Since replacement, start up routine is normal but the light stays on after I start driving. The mechanic out our shop put a code reader on it, said it couldn't read the bearing.
So I took everything back apart, cleaned the grease off the sensor with a paper towel and put everything back together and the light still comes back on. I'm not sure exactly what grease I used, same heavy duty grease I use on my tractor. What's my next step? Should I keep taking it apart and cleaning it? Will that fix it?
BTW the truck is a 2001 7.3 with 280k with some mild mods....
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01 Superduty headlight burnt out. Its a sealed beam, haven't changed one of those for years. Most are bulbs.
Anyway I took all the screws I could see from around the headlight door and underneath it.
Headlights still in there as solid as when I started. What screws I seem to be missing?
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My truck, 2001 F250 SuperCab 4x4 should be delivered any day from the Pacific Northwest. It has Zero rust on it and I want to keep it that way. Unfortunately here in Kansas City, Missouri most of the trucks of this vintage I see have rust around the back wheels on the bed. What steps, if any, can I take to prevent rust on my new truck? I'm pretty OCD about cleaning my vehicles (or anything for that matter, lol) so washing the wheel wells is a no-brainer.
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2001 f350 w/v10, 6.8. the fender mounted starter solenoid went out so I replaced it, while doing so I also replaced the battery (previous owner had a marine/rv battery installed, I purchased the truck a couple months ago). after replacement the truck still will not start. when attempting to start it barely if at all cranks, long story short I was going to have the starter tested but in the course of removing it the terminal posts broke off so I ended up replacing it too. The truck still would not start or really crank so I dug down with the expectation of finding a bad ground someplace. cleaned up the ground points. Now I have the battery on a charger awaiting it to finish recharging. Something that is likely/remotely likely to be causing the engine not to crank over and start that I have missed?
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my speedo doesn't work but, all the other gages do. I just replaced the front hubs, abs sensors, ball joints etc... I put a new sensor in the rear end this morning and still nothing isthere a fuse tied to this somewhere? am I missing something? it's a 5.4l with a 4r100
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